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This is amazing work. I'd LOVE to see him do a tutorial just on the corners, explaining exactly where to cut the fabric.

M cubed

M to the 3rd power

Too much talking

The bench is used with all 5 tools though... and your sharpening stones... and burnisher... and saw file... and combo square

Hello, would this wood finish recipe work on ribbon stripe Sapele?

My wife is into Dimon art, which means I get to make all the pictures frames. I am really bad at my 45° frames, I m always off. I am going to make a few of your jigs to see if I can improve my 45° frames. Thank for sharing your jigs.

After about three attempts at eyeballing the variance and guessing at the adjustment to my fence, I tried this 3 cut method. The method worked to perfection for making my sled. Perfect 90degrees and no light under the engineering square.

More accurate that that we work to spot on.

Enjoyed the tips. Always share with my students. Thanks Tom.

When you put all the boards together and measure, you’re assuming that they are all the same thickness.

If I can make a suggestion: I use Lego blocks as measurement gauges. The blocks are Imperial (they were originally designed by a British Engineer) and are in 1/8" increments thick i.e. 1/8" and 3/8". If you measure on a Lego baseplate then it cancels out the "pips" on the top of the blocks. I use them a lot e.g. I use them to create a 1/4" high step for chiseling picture frame rebates. Also they are cheap and don't swell or move with temp. Can be used for all sorts of things in woodwork. Hopefully I've done a good job selling them!

take the batt out of the unit---keep it in the case---problem solved!! nice video thanx rick

I have to assume suggestions for upcoming shows is no longer needed. It looks like the form or link was removed.

Thanks for sharing Tom always so thoughtful 😊

Expensive set up blocks are nice but did you know? 1/8” thick aluminum strips you can get at the big box stores are accurate enough in most applications. I cut them into sections about 4” long and stack them up to get the dimension I want. They work, for me, as well as set up blocks and are dirt cheap. I bore a counter sunk hole through the stack. Secure them with a bolt like a set of feeler gauges. Very handy.

Hmmm. What comes to mind when you mentioned all the things we share? Well for one thing we are both always covered with saw dust. Does the camera lady put covers on the furniture like my spouse.

This is the best walnut finishing video I have found on utube. I have some stair treads with a mixed bag of kd/ad nut. I’m gonna use sealcoat first, no dyes. Thanks

I've learned to hate battery powered calipers. The battery is always dead when I want to use them. I prefer dial calipers. They're older school but they are always ready to use when I pick them up. Harbor Freight sells a dial caliper that's marked in 1/64" graduations (about 0.016"). Using your eyeball to split the distance between the graduations you can easily measure down to 1/128". I've found that 0.008" is more than accurate enough for my woodworking needs. Also, don't overlook the use of the pointy thing that sticks out the back of the caliper when you use it. It's wonderful for measuring the depth of holes. The 1-2-3 block (they usually come in sets of 2) is wonderful. Notice that some of the holes in the block are threaded. A bolt through the fence on the table saw allows you to attach the block to the fence. This works out great as a standoff when crosscutting parts using the miter attachment. Also, there are 4-5-6 blocks available in machinist's tool catalogs. If you shop on eBay you'll find Chinese 1-2-3 and 4-5-6 blocks pretty cheaply. Typically, these tools are hardened and ground to 0.0001 accuracy. If the cheap Chinese ones miss by a ten thousandth of an inch it doesn't seem to affect my wood working. Lastly, a set of machinist's parallels provides quick access to precision spacers that allow you to measure 1/8" to more than an inch in 1/8" increments. Harbor Freight usually has these for less than $20 a set. Again, these are hardened and ground to an accuracy of 0.0001"'. I've used them to set the height of saw blades and router bits.

Measure as a last resort. Sometimes you have to measure, most of the time you don't.

Cool

Beautiful work, Tom! One of the best benches I've seen. 🙌🏼

Very nice to see a craftsman at work, I consider myself one an, I don't know but I am probably around the same age as this gentleman. He is not fast but smooth!.

It is used to paint musical instruments such as the guitar and oud, it’s perfect. Thanks

I love your furniture style. Pure class!

Filled with gross plastic

Love the video.

AMAZING JOB!!

Great tip! Thanks for sharing!

If you've ever grown any houseplants, you've seen how plants will slowly move over time to grow closer to the light. You can see this very prominently in aroids like the _Monstera deliciosa_ which will actually twist the petiole into a contorted shape so the leaf top is facing the sun or grow light directly. Maple exhibits this same behavior. Maple trees that are grown near larger trees, for example, will actually bend and contort to have more leaves exposed to areas that are not shaded by the larger tree. What ends up happening as a result is that the grain will compress and disfigure in a way that preserves the integrity of the fibers that make up the grain while reducing their total height. This results in a rolling pattern that looks like this curly maple texture when cut straight-much like the way your skin around your belly will roll when you bend a certain way. This does result in denser wood, but consistent throughout the compressed side of the trunk. If a tree is bending only in a single direction, you would see the curly maple only on one side of the trunk. That said, since the motion of the sun moves shade, in most wild cases, it's plenty common for the figure to present (though at different prominence) throughout the trunk. The specific mechanism that allows maple to move in this way faster than most trees without compromising the integrity of its structure is what presents this prominent figure. You can actually find this curly figure to a much less prominent degree in many other types of wood. (I have a walnut board I'm working on right now that has a very slight curly figure to it in spots.)

I could watch this all day. What a skilled craftsman!

The ash tree diagram was niiiiice!!!❤❤❤

Just saw a video where the builder used Total Boat Penetrating Epoxy to seal the white oak he was using. Then he used Total boat varnish. I also saw a shipwrights use the same stuff, but he thinned it with denatured alcohol for even better penetration. The product sounds promising. Its supposed to stop rot and repair wood.

That is hands down, the best unboxing video I have ever watched. You were just like a 4 year old at Christmas and I loved it. That's the same way I feel when I get a new tool. I feel the same way you do about Lie Nielsen, as well, but they've got some pretty good competition out there these days, between the Veritas Custom line of planes at about the same price and a better grade of steel in their irons with the PMV-11, and Wind River at about 100 bucks less. Thanks for sharing that. I look forward to your next video.

FYI here is what National library of medicine says about Potassium Dichromate: "Potassium dichromate primarily affects the respiratory tract causing ulcerations, shortness of breath, bronchitis, pneumonia and asthma but can also affect the gastrointestinal tract, liver, kidneys and immune system. This substance is a known human carcinogen and is associated with an increased risk of developing lung cancer and cancer of the sinonasal cavity." If I were you, I would use a respiratory mask and would not use it on anything that is in contact with food.

too long

SPLENDID SIR

Yup, you really need to hang on to that Lie Neilsen low angle block, forever, as they do not seem to be available anymore ... I did find a used one on E-bay for $639.00!!!

Tom, love your videos and the way that you present the content. Always good information. Thanks!!

hi there, in the sample board you show at 21:00 with three samples, what oil did you use for the middle part of the sample. Im working on a blanket chest and thought that i would like to avoid the blotchyness but seeing that center sample i think has changed my mind. thanks for the video.Love the back and forth between you and the wife, you guys sound like you have fun and its nice to hear.

Congratulations !!!! Sir

As much as you laughed at your model mock-up, it did a GREAT job conveying the concepts you discussed. Brilliant job!!! 🏆🏆🏆

Shellac, will even block heavy smoke residue. French polish is my favorite finish and the best way to avoid lap/brush marks, even if you dull it with steel wool after. Love walnut, especially veneer for speakers and other composite caseworks. I like wipe on poly for it or Maloof's technique.

Hi Tom and Camera Lady, love your content. Nice to see your genuine excitement about the plane. So, you peaked my interest when you mentioned the tormek. As a full timer, am interested to learn about things to speed up the process. Tanks again

I only save the rustproof paper.

A viewer had a question on sawing large panels. Kelly Mehler (former Fine Woodworking contributor) had an excellent video on tablesaws. You can find it on CZcams titled Mastering Your Tablesaw. He also wrote The Tablesaw Book. For large panels such as a 4x8 sheet, he starts the panel standing by the left side corner. His left hand is on the left side of the board pressing it against the fence. The right hand is helping press the board against the fence and also feeding the board through. As the board goes through, Mehler moves more directly behind the board and continues to push it straight through. Hope my explanation helps, but I would suggest checking his book and video.

Never know that Gordon Ramsey do a woodworking so well

Love your videos Tom !

Is it necessary to push the scraper instead of pulling it?

1) Rasp 2) Drill 3) Hand sander 4) Pull saw 5) Does a Dremel count?