Mercury 305 rebuild | part 6
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- čas přidán 7. 07. 2024
- Part 6.
Marine 305 Rebuild project. Complete engine! we top off this series with the heads, intake and accessories. After the motor is built, I did a quick start and tune to ensure everything was good before installing it in the boat and taking it for a rip in the lake.
Thank you for sticking through this project, Im new to youtube and still have a lot to learn. Hope to continue uploading more videos in the near future.
As always, if you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask.
Intro: (0:00)
Head assembly: (0:10)
Valvetrain: (2:20)
Intake and valve covers: (5:24)
Distributor and water pump: (6:30)
Paint: (8:05)
Start up and run!: (8:31) - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Dude!!!! These videos helped me SOOOO much!!! Thanks for being thorough and very helpful with 0 B.S. like most peoples shaky crap videos. Honestly I couldn't have rebuilt my engine without you. I am so grateful!!! Those out there who need info on a marine 305 rebuild watch these videos and pay attention. I've probably watched over a dozen times. Thanks again man. YOU SAVED MY BOAT!!!!!
Thank you so much! I'm glad this helped. I tried my best to make things clear and understandable. What you see in this series can be applied to virtually any engine. My goal was to show a full process of an engine build and address the main focus points, so that anyone with the right tools can do it. I'm happy this worked out for you, and I'm glad to hear your boat is saved! enjoy the waters!
Love your videos, you're a legend.
Great videos, so far the best engine rebuild videos I’ve watched!! Subscribed for more!
Thank you. My future videos will be a mixture of in depth builds, fast builds, and other misc DIY projects.
Just wanted to give a huge shout out and say thank you so much. I followed your videos step by step and yesterday I started the motor up first shot and it ran amazing!!! Thanks again for all you do!
Oh that is just awesome! Im glad this helped! that was the whole goal. Happy you got that motor running. One thing I would mention at this point, now that your motor is started, monitor your oil pressure & water temp, set your timing, and your air-fuel. These are the 4 main reasons a brand new engine will fail prematurely. But aside from that, enjoy it! And thank you for the comment, I appreciate it.
Thanks for the tutorial!
No problem! it was my pleasure.
Loved the vids, subbed
Thank you! working on new material now a days.
Hey there! Just watched the whole series to get an idea of what im getting myself into. Do you happen to have some kind of parts list? Is there manuals with written literature on the entire process? The stuff like tolerances and boring the motor stumps me. Thanks much! Happy memorial day!
Thanks for watching!. Click on the ( about ) section of the channel. And shoot me an email with your questions. Ill gladly answer what I can.
Great video. I watched these videos about 8 times. I have 2 of these engines to rebuild. One of the engine is Reverse Rotation. What information can you give me regarding the difference in parts for the rebuild?
That is a good and rare question. The reverse rotation engines require a different set of Rear main seal + timing cover seals. These seals are designed with an angle to them to reflect crank rotation. So this is very important, and easily missed. The other thing that needs to be addressed is the Piston Directions. In the conventional rotating setups, the pistons usually have a dot which is to point towards the front of the motor. In your reverse setup, you need to point the dot towards the rear of the motor. The piston rings follow the piston orientation. And last but not least, your timing set is different, you don't use a timing chain, instead there is a 2 gear system. This will maintain the camshaft, oil pump, and distributor directions. So the only thing that rotates differently in your setup, is the crank, and nothing else. I hope this helps.
Do I need marine head gaskets? Also can you send me what thread sealer you use. I got a gm 305 donor motor non marine I just need to know what all I need to change or use internally.
Hi. and yes, I would recommend using marine gaskets. They have a stainless steel or aluminum construction in the water passage-ways to prevent corrosion from the lake water. Regular gaskets don't have this issue because of the chemicals and lubricants in coolant fluids. As for the sealer, it's Permatex Aviation Form A Gasket. I hope this helps!
Great videos and they really helped me with my rebuild. I have two questions: Did you use assembly lube on both sides of the connecting rod bearings? and also what type of silicone did you use for the gaskets? Thanks again for this as it has been a life saver for me anyways!
Hi, thank you. And I am happy you found these useful. That was my goal. For the RTV, I use Permatex 59213 black RTV silicone. You can use any automotive water&oil resistant gasket maker, but I recommend the one listed. As for the bearings, never put assembly lube on the outer surface of the bearing. This surface, as well as the rod/surface must be as clean as possible in order to achieve the correct bearing tolerances, as well as prevent the bearing from ( sliding/spinning ). This is why we clean the parts first, then insert the bearings in place, and the final step is to lube the surface where the bearing meets the crank. I hope this helps. Feel free to ask further questions.
@@DarkBloodMechanical Thanks I really appreciate it!
Wow am surprised u got it running so easily cuz I thought the bore was too tight. But I guess in an oil crankcase 4 stroke it’s better lubrication to spin freely.
Hi. piston to wall clearances on this build were about 0.002"-0.003". connecting rod tolerances 0.0025" and main journals about 0.002". When you first assemble a motor, with the thick Assembly lube, everything will be tight. It can be rotated by hand with a bit of force. Once a motor is fully broken in, the components will Seat themselves and free up some of that stiffness. :) I hope this helps.
@@DarkBloodMechanical I had rebuild 2 Johnson v4 2stroke. The first build I had binding cuz I believe the clearance were abt .003 bit to tight. Then the second build the mill shop bored. 004-.005. Believe it or not that crank was more freely to spin & started & idle a whole lot better. However the highest cyln compression on that motor was 115psi compared to the the bore with the tighter clearance @ 120psi but had alot of hardstarting issues & took 2 summers of boating to seat & start & idle better.
@@fishawk90 Good to hear you got it running. I've built dozens of SBC's and tolerance them based on materials and application use, and haven't had an issue. I have however, received a motor from a customer whos tolerances were so tight that the Starters were burning up and car wouldn't idle. Once I rebuilt the motor with the correct tolerances, all worked fine. :)
@@DarkBloodMechanical OK. My friend had a Volvo rebuilt on his sail boat but they just hone & put new rings not sure cuz it's an oil crankcase the bore does not oversize so much . But I kno on 2strokes they wear alot more. Any cyln oversize beyond .004 it must be rebore. Is it the same .004. Tolerance on those mercrusier block?
@@fishawk90 Hi. I can't say its the same, it would be best to get an engine build spec Manual for the Volvo to confirm tolerances. In our build, I bored and honed the block to match the pistons, 0.004 is a bit too much for our application. If we used a set of 4032 or 2618 forged pistons, then 0.004-0.0055 roughly is what we would tolerance the bores to, depending on how the motor will be used. All tolerances on a motor must be spec'd based on the materials, and the use of the motor. I hope this helps.
Love this series! Ive got the same engine, do you know where i can get the torque-specs in metric? 🙂 /from Sweden
Hey There, and thank you! I have a lot of content to go through and edit for future videos. So stay tuned. Also, if your referring to torque-specs. My readings are in FT-LB. If you are looking for metric, you can convert the values as follows. 1 Nm = 0.7376 ft-lbs. so if you have 60 ft-lbs as a spec. simply divide 60/0.7376 = 81.3 Nm
Hope this helps.
I have a seized 5.0 mercruiser and was wondering if I can get a truck 305 and out the exhaust and water pump or are they built diffrent
Hi blake. So they are built slightly differently. The head gaskets for marine applications use stainless steel since the water passing through the heads isn't treated/lubricated. And there's an extra steam water port on the merc block, but this can be ignored. The camshaft is also different since boat motors are meant to operate generally at a constant rpm range. Apart from that and maybe the dipstick... you should be able to swap it over. This mercury build series i used a truck block from a 90s van. Hope this helps.
@@DarkBloodMechanical how much did this rebuild cost with all parts
@@blakelira7098 itll all depend on whats damaged and whats reusable. We got lucky with this build. So if you watch the whole series i mention what parts needed replacement. And which were new. I charged roughly 3500CAD for the whole job. This included machining, new parts, paints, tune.
Hello you adjust valve only 90 degrees?
Hi. I should have clarified. I start-off with a 90 degree turn ( quarter turn ). once the engine is warmed up, if I hear a tick, then I will usually add an extra 90 degrees until it quiets down. I prefer to run the valves on the looser side rather than tighter for a stock build. When it comes to more performance builds, then I set the preloads based on the lifter-plungers stroke. You can experiment with just 90 degrees to start, and then move to a half turn or more as long as the motor doesn't start misfiring. Always do this when the engine is fully warmed up, when all metals have expanded to correct operating temperatures. I hope this helps.
@@DarkBloodMechanical thank you Dark
What truck model or SUV uses this same engine block? I'm looking for a cheap option for repair.
Hi. you can pretty much use any vortec v8 motor, so chevys and GMC C/K models. and Savana work vans. Basically look for any mid-90s to 2003 ish era. There are some v6 vortecs that were used in these trucks as well, so make sure its the v8 models. The block itself will only have 1 difference, and its the water coolant vent at the front where the water pump meets, this will make no difference in marine applications so it can be ignored. Hope this helps.
@@DarkBloodMechanical help me a lot, your response and your videos, thanks for posting.
@@alessdre Thank you. and your welcome. that is the goal of the channel, is to share my projects, and hopefully others can learn, or teach me.
chevy 305 5.0 auto blocks are slightly different, oil dip is on other side, if its a 2 part crank then flywheel, all freeze plugs swapped for brass, oil pan and seal, swap plugs and drains, marine head gaskets and different camshaft profile. Auto engines aren't designed to go at 5000 rpm constantly. I just put a 350 auto in a boat and it works well but was a p.i.t.a!!! in hindsight I prolly should have just got the marine engine. lol oh well