Even with low exposure it's a good habit to take the time to always tie knots at the end of the rope. This way when your rappel is exposed and you're scared and tired you don't forget and slip off the end of the rope into the deadly void.
That's what I just wanted to add. Figure eight or any other stop knot should the rope rush out your belay device. There's a lot to add that potentially would help to clear that extreme situation. The stop knot, however, should not be forgot. Anyway, all depends on risk preference :-)
These “how to” series are such gold!! It’s weirdly cozy to watch and motivating! Xavier is ridicilous awesome and good instructor! ! Sure, it’s more to know and understand before people go ahead and try this stuff for you’re own safety! Mucho appreciate! Cheers from Norway 🇳🇴 🍻
Great videos! I appreciate the simple instructions on all of your videos. I understand that learned and getting training from experienced backcountry rides and alpinest is needed to do this type of thing with success. But I love your attitude and your willingness to share your knowledge. You answer some of these basic questions that anyone like me, who wants to do this has and it’s a great group of videos to study and begin in this exciting new frontier. Thanks again. Your my new favorite big mountain rider! I’ll pass on your channel to my friends.
I only use this technique a couple of times a year as I get tired of carrying up old skis in addition to the ones I am using on the run. It is a lot of work carrying an extra pair just for the anchor but as this video shows oh so worth it. Thanks for another great idea.
I recommend two skis with brakes and a ski strap, or two ski straps if you don’t have brakes, so you don’t risk cutting the sling. Also, a clove hitch or basket hitch is better than a girth hitch as the girth can twist the ski anchor, causing less surface area and it to pull out. Nice video!
I would say rappeling is quite advanced technique and should be trained properly in safe enviroment before you even try it in mountains. XV is pro so it seems so easy but its not :)
Definitely one to practice in a safe environment so that if one day you do have to use it in a stressful situation you have a good understanding of how it works and know when it is safe. Thanks Xv
I am just learning to splitboard but am a rock and ice climber for 4-5 years, and would say to watch more material about rappelling before doing this on a bigger cliff. PETZL, a climbing company has extensive documentation on their site and the AMGA (American Mountain Guides) have great youtube videos too. -Definitely knot the ends. A few times I thought I was at middle but wasn't. -Not necessary, but I wouldn't extend the device that much that its out of reach, in case you wanted to stand up and pull in slack to better re-position yourself. -Know how to coil the rope ends neatly back and forth in your hand and how to throw them, depending on wind and what is below you so you don't have a tangled mess. You do this well in the video but others may not. I still make fun of my friend's poor rope throwing skills to this day, haha! - Can also use "saddlebags" or put the rope ends hanging through two slings on your side gear loops to not have to throw at all. Good to keep rope out of mud / water / thick brush / obstacles - A munter knot to rappel in case you drop / misplace the device - A partner below can back you up with a "Firemans Belay" in lieu of a prussik, by holding the rope and pulling the rope tight to lock your device for you if you mess up -Prussik must be much thinner than the rope you rappel for it to grab well. My Question: How are you retrieving the anchors? Does your partner remove it and ride down a different way? Do you return another day to get the gear back? Are there fixed anchor stations on popular BC lines? I know how to abandon webbing to anchor a large rock, etc. But what do you guys do if burying an axe or ski?
Thanks for all the info - really helpful. In this instance my partner went another way down. I have seen that you can get an ice axe back if you bury it - www.mountaineeringmethodology.com/rappelling-in-snow/ but I need to look into this more. Perhaps the next video... Otherwise if you can find a piece of wood or similar this is ideal as you can leave it behind. Xv
Au top les explications. Par contre j'ai remarqué que tu utilisais un reverso avec un seul mousqueton lors de ton rappel. Petzl en préconise 2 avec la rad line. Ca freine suffisement? j
@@HOWTOXV , Gauthier brings a good point - though it looks like you extended the rap set up with a sling and it's not super clear from the video but you are using one Am'D screwlock (i.e. 'H' profile) and Reverso belay (works down to 6.9mm in twin rope)? I'm very interested by the 6mm type lines coming out, but was wondering if I don't need to update my descender (or not!).
Hola. If you are rappelling in double on 6mm the reverse works fine. It is said to be working up till 6.9mm robes on twin ropes but in skiing you dont put that much weight on usually or at least not for that long so it kinda works especially considering the fact that you can adapt the traction with the Prussic knot. Hope that helps. Xv
There is a trick with two ice axes. I can't pull it out now, but you can google it. I personally would go with a wooden plank and warped main rope over it, so when i get down i can pull it trough.
use a piece of wood and leave it there or you will have to abandon something behind, like an ice axe or a plastic bag ( Not cool...) or a pair of poles... attention with the snow quality with these as it may not work depending on different ones
In the mountains I generally have a 30M rope is good as it doesn't take too much space, but if you need to rappel further... you are going to need longer! I like a 6mm for the diameter. Hope that helps. Xv
You don’t... unless you have someone going another way and can bring it down, or if you are able to go back up there. If you can find something like a stick, you can also use that, or - not to encourage littering, but you can use a plastic bag... Want to make sure you give it plenty of time for the snow to set around it... and I have never done it and hope I never have to - be pretty scary to rappel off a plastic bag! It really is a skill that is good to know as a last resort if you are really stuck, but like a lot of skills in the mountain, good to know, but hope we never have to use. Ideally you would have the gear - like a sling and could rappel from a rock. Hope that helps. Xv
@@HOWTOXV maybe I’m just Scottish, but even if you were creating an anchor off a tree or rock using a sling and two locking carabiners in opposition, I feel like leaving $30 in gear at the top of ever run is an activity I cannot afford.
@@colinwatt00 there are some techniques in order to get your gear back, but I have never tried as they seem very difficult and never found anything that I am comfortable with. Definitely don't want to be leaving expensive gear in the mountains, but sometimes it is good to know the techniques in case you get in a dangerous situation and it is $30 or a night on the mountain. I shall do some research and let you know if I find a good solution. Xv
Hey Colin - also someone on the channel kindly shared this information on retrieving gear - if you rappel off an ice axe: www.mountaineeringmethodology.com/rappelling-in-snow/
Indeed! I just used the ski as an example, but you can use a bit of wood, or even a plastic bag... if you leave it for long enough, although don't want to leave that behind in the mountains, but if it is life or death you might have to. Xv
There are a lot of different anchor types. Sometimes you can make a snow bollard and get all your gear back, other times you can sling a rock or a Bush/tree and you just have to leave slings/biners
If you don’t cover your skis with snow (which simply helps keep the skis in place) there is a way to retrieve them. You basically tie a cordelette to your skis and wrap it around them a few times. The other end of this cordelette is tied to one strand of your rappelling rope. This way, when you pull down on that strand to retrieve your rope, you’ll also pull your skis out of the t-slot and then down the mountain. Sounds complicated but it’s actually quite simple, it’s very similar to building a retrievable ice-screw anchor. Certainly, I don’t suggest this technique if there is the risk of your skis breaking after a fall or hitting you. Anyway, it’s better to pack a piece of junk wood for a t-anchor than to risk loosing your precious skis.
@@HOWTOXV In some cases where some people in the group are scared / not skilled enough the rappel can be used for couloir entrances etc and the group leader with better level will be helping them down on the rappel even winching them down and getting his own ski back and ski down after everyone is safe.. It is one of the other use of the ski rappel..I know guys that use wood planks they carry in their backpack when they are not leaving anyone up there ( in the same cases as your case study)...Would be interesting to spend more time explaining the ropes stuff / gear detail for everyone's benefit too :)
Ah - she is happy to stay up there! No in all seriousness, this is to show you how it is done, but you can use anything - even a plastic bag (not that I condone littering), or a branch. It is generally something you will do in an emergency, so you might need to choose something that you don't mind leaving (I do mind leaving my wife!) - But she could then belay down on the same rappel. Next winter I will show some options for different rappels - where you don't have to leave your skis if you are organised and take some slings with you. Xv
Ah - that is the problem indeed- here is a technical explanation: straightchuter.com/self-retrieving-ski-anchor/ But in many instances it is a last resort to get you out safely - so ideally you want to find a stick that you don't mind leaving behind rather than an expensive ski!! XV
My goal with How To XV is to show people some of the opportunities that are available in the mountains, my hope is that people might be inspired to go and learn more safety skills, rather than putting themselves in danger. Xv
Ah - well this is the problem! The best is if you can use a stick or something you don't mind leaving. There is a method to do this though and get the ski.... straightchuter.com/self-retrieving-ski-anchor/ Haven't tried it out, but I have it as more of a last resort! XV
Even with low exposure it's a good habit to take the time to always tie knots at the end of the rope. This way when your rappel is exposed and you're scared and tired you don't forget and slip off the end of the rope into the deadly void.
RIP Brad Gobright
That's what I just wanted to add. Figure eight or any other stop knot should the rope rush out your belay device. There's a lot to add that potentially would help to clear that extreme situation. The stop knot, however, should not be forgot. Anyway, all depends on risk preference :-)
Ah yes, very good point, thank you. Xv
Definitely worthwhile adding the fig 8 or the stop knot. Thank you for pointing it out. Xv
These “how to” series are such gold!! It’s weirdly cozy to watch and motivating! Xavier is ridicilous awesome and good instructor! ! Sure, it’s more to know and understand before people go ahead and try this stuff for you’re own safety! Mucho appreciate! Cheers from Norway 🇳🇴 🍻
Thank you. Xv
Great videos! I appreciate the simple instructions on all of your videos. I understand that learned and getting training from experienced backcountry rides and alpinest is needed to do this type of thing with success. But I love your attitude and your willingness to share your knowledge. You answer some of these basic questions that anyone like me, who wants to do this has and it’s a great group of videos to study and begin in this exciting new frontier. Thanks again. Your my new favorite big mountain rider! I’ll pass on your channel to my friends.
I only use this technique a couple of times a year as I get tired of carrying up old skis in addition to the ones I am using on the run. It is a lot of work carrying an extra pair just for the anchor but as this video shows oh so worth it. Thanks for another great idea.
Have you tried some other materials? Interested to know - like a piece of wood. XV
@@HOWTOXV No wood in the alpine.
Thanks for the tips. More on building bomber ice and rock anchors would be nice to see.
John Long's book Climbing anchors is THE book.
I'll check it out. Thanks.
Cool - with pleasure, will put it on the list. Thanks Xv
I recommend two skis with brakes and a ski strap, or two ski straps if you don’t have brakes, so you don’t risk cutting the sling.
Also, a clove hitch or basket hitch is better than a girth hitch as the girth can twist the ski anchor, causing less surface area and it to pull out.
Nice video!
Thanks for the tips, appreciated. XV
And a basket can potentially slide back and forth on the ski. Also not ideal.
I would say rappeling is quite advanced technique and should be trained properly in safe enviroment before you even try it in mountains. XV is pro so it seems so easy but its not :)
rappeling is fairly easy, building bomber anchors is hard.
Definitely one to practice in a safe environment so that if one day you do have to use it in a stressful situation you have a good understanding of how it works and know when it is safe. Thanks Xv
I am just learning to splitboard but am a rock and ice climber for 4-5 years, and would say to watch more material about rappelling before doing this on a bigger cliff. PETZL, a climbing company has extensive documentation on their site and the AMGA (American Mountain Guides) have great youtube videos too.
-Definitely knot the ends. A few times I thought I was at middle but wasn't.
-Not necessary, but I wouldn't extend the device that much that its out of reach, in case you wanted to stand up and pull in slack to better re-position yourself.
-Know how to coil the rope ends neatly back and forth in your hand and how to throw them, depending on wind and what is below you so you don't have a tangled mess. You do this well in the video but others may not. I still make fun of my friend's poor rope throwing skills to this day, haha!
- Can also use "saddlebags" or put the rope ends hanging through two slings on your side gear loops to not have to throw at all. Good to keep rope out of mud / water / thick brush / obstacles
- A munter knot to rappel in case you drop / misplace the device
- A partner below can back you up with a "Firemans Belay" in lieu of a prussik, by holding the rope and pulling the rope tight to lock your device for you if you mess up
-Prussik must be much thinner than the rope you rappel for it to grab well.
My Question: How are you retrieving the anchors? Does your partner remove it and ride down a different way? Do you return another day to get the gear back? Are there fixed anchor stations on popular BC lines? I know how to abandon webbing to anchor a large rock, etc. But what do you guys do if burying an axe or ski?
Thanks for all the info - really helpful.
In this instance my partner went another way down. I have seen that you can get an ice axe back if you bury it - www.mountaineeringmethodology.com/rappelling-in-snow/ but I need to look into this more. Perhaps the next video...
Otherwise if you can find a piece of wood or similar this is ideal as you can leave it behind. Xv
That's some nasty weather
Au top les explications. Par contre j'ai remarqué que tu utilisais un reverso avec un seul mousqueton lors de ton rappel. Petzl en préconise 2 avec la rad line. Ca freine suffisement? j
Pour moi oui, parce que je fait rarement des rappels ou on est suspendus dans le vide et dans ce cas la ca joue sans soucis.
@@HOWTOXV , Gauthier brings a good point - though it looks like you extended the rap set up with a sling and it's not super clear from the video but you are using one Am'D screwlock (i.e. 'H' profile) and Reverso belay (works down to 6.9mm in twin rope)? I'm very interested by the 6mm type lines coming out, but was wondering if I don't need to update my descender (or not!).
Hola.
If you are rappelling in double on 6mm the reverse works fine.
It is said to be working up till 6.9mm robes on twin ropes but in skiing you dont put that much weight on usually or at least not for that long so it kinda works especially considering the fact that you can adapt the traction with the Prussic knot. Hope that helps. Xv
Xavier, ever rappelled into a line with the snowboard on your feet?
Yes for sure if it’s not too rocky its actually better and safer. Xv
Call me crazy, but it the prussic slipping @ 3:45min?
And how do you recover the anchor?
Skiers are really great group of good and open minded people, and they would be more than happy to give you a skie to make an anchor :)
@@belibeli5908 lmao
There is a trick with two ice axes. I can't pull it out now, but you can google it. I personally would go with a wooden plank and warped main rope over it, so when i get down i can pull it trough.
Eco friendly!
you bury a rock and ditch a sling
Hey XV, what if you have a wife that wants to ride the shoot with you? How do you get the gear down?
Rk
use a piece of wood and leave it there or you will have to abandon something behind, like an ice axe or a plastic bag ( Not cool...) or a pair of poles... attention with the snow quality with these as it may not work depending on different ones
What length and diameter rope do you recommend?
In the mountains I generally have a 30M rope is good as it doesn't take too much space, but if you need to rappel further... you are going to need longer! I like a 6mm for the diameter. Hope that helps. Xv
@@HOWTOXV any special belay device for such a thin rope to make sure there is enough friction?
How do you retrieve your gear used to create the anchor?
You don’t... unless you have someone going another way and can bring it down, or if you are able to go back up there.
If you can find something like a stick, you can also use that, or - not to encourage littering, but you can use a plastic bag... Want to make sure you give it plenty of time for the snow to set around it... and I have never done it and hope I never have to - be pretty scary to rappel off a plastic bag!
It really is a skill that is good to know as a last resort if you are really stuck, but like a lot of skills in the mountain, good to know, but hope we never have to use. Ideally you would have the gear - like a sling and could rappel from a rock. Hope that helps. Xv
@@HOWTOXV maybe I’m just Scottish, but even if you were creating an anchor off a tree or rock using a sling and two locking carabiners in opposition, I feel like leaving $30 in gear at the top of ever run is an activity I cannot afford.
@@colinwatt00 there are some techniques in order to get your gear back, but I have never tried as they seem very difficult and never found anything that I am comfortable with. Definitely don't want to be leaving expensive gear in the mountains, but sometimes it is good to know the techniques in case you get in a dangerous situation and it is $30 or a night on the mountain. I shall do some research and let you know if I find a good solution. Xv
Hey Colin - also someone on the channel kindly shared this information on retrieving gear - if you rappel off an ice axe: www.mountaineeringmethodology.com/rappelling-in-snow/
@@HOWTOXV - very interesting. Thanks for sharing this.
Now that's some nasty weather. And what happened to the rest of the line :)?
What line you are talking about the bunny slope? This is recorded 10m from the lift
I thought so.
... If you look closely you can see the gondola in the background!! Shhhh.
:D
Just one question.... how to get back those ski?🤔
Indeed! I just used the ski as an example, but you can use a bit of wood, or even a plastic bag... if you leave it for long enough, although don't want to leave that behind in the mountains, but if it is life or death you might have to. Xv
There are a lot of different anchor types. Sometimes you can make a snow bollard and get all your gear back, other times you can sling a rock or a Bush/tree and you just have to leave slings/biners
If you don’t cover your skis with snow (which simply helps keep the skis in place) there is a way to retrieve them. You basically tie a cordelette to your skis and wrap it around them a few times. The other end of this cordelette is tied to one strand of your rappelling rope. This way, when you pull down on that strand to retrieve your rope, you’ll also pull your skis out of the t-slot and then down the mountain. Sounds complicated but it’s actually quite simple, it’s very similar to building a retrievable ice-screw anchor. Certainly, I don’t suggest this technique if there is the risk of your skis breaking after a fall or hitting you.
Anyway, it’s better to pack a piece of junk wood for a t-anchor than to risk loosing your precious skis.
@@HOWTOXV In some cases where some people in the group are scared / not skilled enough the rappel can be used for couloir entrances etc and the group leader with better level will be helping them down on the rappel even winching them down and getting his own ski back and ski down after everyone is safe.. It is one of the other use of the ski rappel..I know guys that use wood planks they carry in their backpack when they are not leaving anyone up there ( in the same cases as your case study)...Would be interesting to spend more time explaining the ropes stuff / gear detail for everyone's benefit too :)
This is all cool and so but how do u get u ski and wife down
Ah - she is happy to stay up there!
No in all seriousness, this is to show you how it is done, but you can use anything - even a plastic bag (not that I condone littering), or a branch. It is generally something you will do in an emergency, so you might need to choose something that you don't mind leaving (I do mind leaving my wife!) - But she could then belay down on the same rappel.
Next winter I will show some options for different rappels - where you don't have to leave your skis if you are organised and take some slings with you. Xv
But how do you retrieve your ski? Lol
Ah - that is the problem indeed- here is a technical explanation: straightchuter.com/self-retrieving-ski-anchor/
But in many instances it is a last resort to get you out safely - so ideally you want to find a stick that you don't mind leaving behind rather than an expensive ski!! XV
Just enough vague information to get some seriously hurt or dead
My goal with How To XV is to show people some of the opportunities that are available in the mountains, my hope is that people might be inspired to go and learn more safety skills, rather than putting themselves in danger. Xv
How do you get your fucking ski down?
Ah - well this is the problem!
The best is if you can use a stick or something you don't mind leaving.
There is a method to do this though and get the ski.... straightchuter.com/self-retrieving-ski-anchor/
Haven't tried it out, but I have it as more of a last resort! XV
Super vidéo.....
Une traduction française aurait été Cool . Mais bon pas grave c'est pas comme si que tu étais Français... loooool
J'ai un peu de retard sur nos traductions - mais ça vient !!