ZF6HP26 Teardown, Jaguar XJ8
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- čas přidán 22. 04. 2023
- In this video, i Teardown a ZF6HP26 Trans out of a Jaguar that ran low on fluid. Trans wasn't to bad, did usual overhaul with Banner kit, Bushing kit, New solenoids, Valvebody plate, new Dampers, Converter and lifeguard 6 Fluid. Thanks for watching.
- Auta a dopravní prostředky
What a complex piece of engineering! I just serviced mine on a Jag S-type and I had absolutely no idea!
Incredible you deserve way more viewers
Thank you.
My 2005 Jaguar XK8 with 152Kmi on it has this same box and I suspect it will last just a bit longer before rebuilding. It has had filter and fluid changes at 60Kmi and 120Kmi and behaves well so far. This has been the best car I have ever had. Love it.
Thank you for great video year down
Thanks
Hello, I recently discovered your channel and it is very interesting and you teach a lot, thanks for all the information.
I am thinking of buying a 2011 jaguar car with a ZF6HP28 gearbox. WITH 220,000KM (MORE THAN 100,000 MILES) and has never changed the oil or filters,
The car does NOT have gearbox faults.
If I buy it, I plan to change the oil and filter by gravity.... What is the possibility that when I do the oil change it starts to show faults...?
Thanks for your opinion and advice. saludos desde España
Unit looks really nice inside, but smart move by the customer to just do the unit and not take a chance.
Agree with that
Hi Gary thanks for another great video, I've just rebuilt my 6hp26x following your great videos. It's a 1st gen I rebuilt from a spare I had but used my original valve body which I fitted new solenoids and a zip kit to last year. The converter has been rebuilt too. After resetting the adapts l drove it and in the higher gears all's well but first to second bangs and snatches if I accelerate hard and has gone into limp mode clutch A ratio monitoring didn't get the exact code as had to delete it to get home. Also when going into drive there's a delay of a couple of secs and sometimes will roll back too. When hot it is worse, junctions are tricky as too much throttle will make it worse.2-1st is really harsh when hot, I've checked the bridge seal all ok and checked fluid all ok. All Gen ZF seals, Excedy clutches,steels ok. Could it be the valve body as it has 165k on it? I have a spare? Any advice would be greatly appreciated as I need it right as it's my daily X5 3.0 diesel 2006. Thanks in advance 👍
What type of scan tool do you have? can you see clutch fill times?
@@GaryFerraro I have a cheapy chinese kept in the car I use in emergency and I have ISTA on my laptop I use for main repairs/diagnostics etc. I reset the adapts originally when I fitted the rebuilt trans, I'm currently on holiday but checked them before I left and the only one I noticed was clutch A which was at 241,the others were in single figures. I'm currently having to use the car but taking it really easy in the low gears. Once I get to 2-3 it seems to pull well and no slipping or banging. I did all of the bushings as well as fitted a full genuine ZF rebuild kit. Can't understand it as everything has been replaced or rebuilt 🤔
@@williamneedham7747 ok, when you reset the adapts did anything change? clutch clearances were all good?
@@GaryFerraro Hi Gary I reset the adapts as normal, not sure what you mean by the clearances changing? When I rebuilt the transmission I checked the steels which looked good not burnt or worn out and replaced the frictions with the same thickness that came out. I measured them on the tips eg the parts that don't wear. Is it possible that the mechatronic needs more time to adapt or have I got something wrong somewhere 🤔 is there a possibility that it could be valve body related as it's my original from my old trans which used to have a harsh 2-1 and 1st and 2nd were pretty poor eg when you accelerate it would rev but not pull which I put down to the converter being poor as it used to drive at 2000rpm until it locked up and now it's at 1500🤔 sorry to be a pain but it's (to use a typical British expression) doing my head in 🤣 I guess you don't get many of the 3.0 diesel BMWs over your side of the Atlantic as all the US videos seem to be petrol models. Thanks again for your help 👍
@@williamneedham7747 Sometimes may take longer to adapt, how many miles have you driven the car? Also, if any codes in the Transmission or engine, adapts may not work
Hi Gary great content as usual, i have the same gearbox in my BMW E70 X5 3.0d i have scanned my adaptions after a recent service and i have 385mbar & 0 seconds on D clutch, any idea why this is a higher number than all other clutches.
Engine ECU has a mild tune.
Regards Brandon
2008 Bmw x5 4.8i
Follow up-
After they called and said the car is throwing a solenoid code (they previously replaced solenoids) they called back again and said the car has 2 (mismatched) issues.
They said it's not leaking in the area where they previously worked on it.
1st video, first guy says it's leaking from the transfer case
2nd video, second guy says it's leaking from the torque converter.
The car needs a new mechatronic but they're reluctant to say how the mechatronics broke or what happened to the solenoids. Just that the car is having pressure or leaking issues and throwing a malfunction code. (Verbally stated in video)
Quoted 7,500 for the transmission rebuild without a 3 year warranty.
The initial job was a zip kit and transmission service with a disclaimer that the zip kit might not fix the shifting issue. After paying for that work to be done within about 250 miles the car needs a transmission rebuild and it's leaking in spots the shops is giving me two different spots, so either they aren't in proper communication with the employees on the ONLY 2 ISSUES the car is having or they REALLY HAVE NO IDEA where the transmission is even leaking from.
Should I ask the cost of replacing the transmission with a warranty vs rebuilding the transmission without a warranty?
The car seems to drive perfectly fine at some points and only has issues randomly. If the mechatronics go out, the car usually won't shift into gears.. ? we have told the shop the cars battery is needing replaced and they even charged the battery for us. Would the car be having mechatronic problematic if the battery was bad? Still doesn't solve the leaking issue.
We are going to drive the car back from the shop and see if it's having any issues (drove fine to the shop, no issues) and update with any paperwork. If the leak is the culprit to the whole issue of needing a transmission rebuild should I further determine what caused the leak?
Hi Garry, I am an auto mechanic in Turkey. I have been following your videos for a long time. I find them very helpful and useful. You are a super mechanic. But why is there no Turkish subtitle option on your channel.
Not sure how to do that. Sorry about that
Gary you are the man, wish I lived closer to NY but I’m in MD. 7 years ago you help me solve an issue with my S Type R. Sadly I’m back with another question. I have an 2003 S Type R, my trans has developed a leak from the bell housing hole. I have to refill once a month. My mechanic believes it’s the front seal to the torque converter but isn’t sure. My question is if that is the cause of the leak does the trans need to be pulled apart or could that seal be pulled and new one pressed in? I occasionally get p0741 just finishing you latest vid this could also be it. Huge thanks in advance
Certainly not a common problem, I would think maybe the front seal pealed back a little bit causing the leak, would you say it leaks more when the car is hot?
Thanks for another great video and as I'm in the middle of rebuilding my own 6hp26x your videos are a massive help. Absolutely agree about the bushings on these units and couldn't believe how bad they were on mine 😮, I eventually got all mine sorted out after buying a second but oe quality bush kit as the first was so loose that it was worse than the worn one! Just a quick question what do you use for compressing the springs when resealing the pistons/drums? I have access to a press at work but it's a 30 ton hydraulic and I'm concerned I might damage something? Do you need a lot of force to compress the springs to get the locks/snap ring out? Thanks again for your help 👍
I use either a foot press or a small press i have mounted to a bench and i screw down a tripod to compress the spring
@@GaryFerraro Thanks Gary for the info I'll see what we have around the shop as don't fancy using our "big" press👍
@@williamneedham7747 that may be to much
Hi Gary. I have zf6hp26 in my -05 bmw e90 320. Parking lock isn't working and the issue is inside the gearbox. I would love to see how it works etc. Can you make a video about it? Greetings from Finland
Hi Gary do you have a link for kit part? Thank you
dear mr gary my car bmw F02//730LI ///2013 it run 155,000KM do you recommended to change oil+filter the car working good no any problem
If its working ok, shouldn't be a problem, only use OE parts, do not use aftermarket.
Good morning Mr. Gary , I am happy and same words as William needham share... In the past I have the great helo and advice from from you videos and @mail with other vehicles , in few weeks more I will work with a 2012 F250 XL suoer duty 6.2Lt. Automatic transmission that need to warm up for at least 20 .inutes befor to move because has barelly traction , if just warm for about 5 minutes has tractiin but so weak and make a little kiks ontill warm uo more , after that runs and change gears normally , I would like to know if you have already a video of this transmission to start to study and see what can I espect once I dissasemble .
Greetungs and thaks for all the help and teach us Mr. Gary ...
Trans should be a 6R140, I have not yet worked on these, very big and heavy unit.
@@GaryFerraro yes , I know , my toughs is change fluid and filter for the sintoms and because I saw the fluid not so bad and not smell bad , thank You and have a good day ...
Hey Gary, I recently rebuilt my 6t45 in a 1.6 diesel terrain using your videos as a guide everything went well couple hiccups along the way but for the most part got it sorted out.I have a question for you if I may. I have access to an MDI and GDS2 my issue is that the rebuilt trans is not getting above 160 degrees F. Normally I would think this is great should be less harsh on my fluid and parts. It used to run at about 200 degrees F on average with crappy dark fluid. I cant get the thing hot enough to do a fast learn procedure OR hot enough to properly set the fluid level. I got it as hot as I could and did the proper fluid level check and just left it there. No problems shifting or anything, yet.... But I would like to accomplish a fast learn and proper fluid check. Is this normal? I did spring for the higher quality clutches and pistons not sure if thats having an impact on the temp or not. Any info would be GREATLY! appreciated