Metabo 10" Sliding Mitre Saw - KGS 254 M
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- čas přidán 10. 09. 2024
- This is our first mitre saw review and the Metabo KGS 254 M has set a pretty high standard for others to follow. It performs very well for a reasonably cheap price point (for a trade quality saw).
For 5% off use the coupon code ' OTT' at Revolution Industrial - www.revolutioni...
This test is only if you want to saw with a precision miter saw. (not for rough work).
Tips and Test:
Very important if you would like to saw with precision. (avoid torsion as much as possible)!
Always choose a Miter saw with a handle positioned in a vertical line above the saw blade.
Everything must be aligned, slide rails, handle, and saw blade,it is much better this way the blade will not tilt.
Because there is some torsion in the aluminum housing .
And choose an engine with softstart on it to prevent wear of the gear and worm shaft.
It is very important that everything is aligned.
Here are some examples to show how the handle must be positioned above the blade.
Bosch gcm 800 sj / Bosch gcm 8 sjl / Evolution rage 3 / FESTOOL KS 60 / Bosch GCM 8 SDE / FESTOOL KS 60 E KAPEX / Metabo KGSV 72 Xact / Bosch PCM 8 SD / Hitachi C10FSH.
(This also is the case with the Miter saw without the slide rails).
(If you want). You can test it yourself at home if there is torsion in the aluminum housing.
Step-1. First you make a saw cut from +-5 mm deep in to a flat piece of wood about +- 20 mm thick to this with the normal handle positioned on the right side of the Miter saw (the wood it will remain in place until the test is completed).
Step-2. Then repeat this by pushing the saw blade down with your hand (finger) on the aluminum protective cover were the saw blade is cased in. Just now only do this without the running engine.
Step-3. Now you can see if the saw blade will be positioned in or next to the saw cut. If the saw blade is (+- 0,2 / 0,5 mm) next to the saw cut then there is torsion in the aluminum housing (test is completed).
Step-4. therefor it is much better to choose a Miter saw with the handle positioned vertical in line above the saw blade.
Step-5. When you measure the vertical 90 degrees angle square (Digital Level Box) of you're sawblade don't forget that there is always some torsion in the aluminum housing.
Conclusion:how further away the handle is from the saw blade how more chance of torsion in the aluminum housing don't go for that (the choices are yours).
Also with a cheap slide miter saw it is still better the handgriff in line a above the saw blade than on the right side. Maybe they will make it someday then we have a winner...
Good comprehensive review. I especially liked that all cutting capacities including BEVEL which everyone seems to forget were mentioned.Thanks!
I really like how it has the cutting depth gradations on the depth cut screw unit too
Known for their awesome angle grinders and jackhammers maybe this saw could one day join those ranks
Also have a look at this ToolBoxBuzz "10 Inch Sliding Miter Saw Head to Head review".
Video: czcams.com/video/BCyTHsc5TBg/video.html
Full article: www.toolboxbuzz.com/head-to-head/10-inch-sliding-miter-saw-head-to-head/
Tested saws:
Bosch - CM10GD
Craftsman - SM2509RC
DeWalt - DW717
Festool - KS 120
Hitachi - C10FSHPS
Makita - LS1016L
RYOBI - TSS102L
+ITubeTooInc Wow. That must have taken a lot of space to do, and lots of time too. I like them ...
I hope Metabo allowed you to keep this review unit, the quality of the manufacturing and materials used looks super premium!! :)
I think the depth of cut feature is common on combination saws like the Metabo, My Makita LS 1040 has this and I use it quite often for dados and notching. When using this feature it's best to have a blade with a raker, as an alternate top bevel blade will leave two grooves and a high spot in the center. This makes for more work when cleaning out the dado.
Most blade manufacturers make blades specifically for cutting metal and I would advise using one of these as good woodworking blades are very expensive and it is possible to knock off a tooth or two cutting metal with a blade designed for wood.
+Terry Goyan totally agreed on all points Terry, very good advice. Thanks for getting involved!
Hi there how did you adjust the angle of the blade square to the bottom base, i have the same saw, and i need to adjust it just a little bit more toh top right but it hit the end..
Simply love your video. Its probably the best one ive seen on this saw.
thanks Spencer :D
The fact that it only cuts 47 high when tipped over on a 45 degree angle seems rather disappointing for a 254 blade. What causes this meagre limitation? Is it the left hand guide rod that leaves only a 47 gap between it and the table?
thanks for the review mate. you said you have never seen a depth stop on a saw but your dewalt has the same depth stop on the right hand side of the blade. works a treat and use it all the time on mine. you'll love it.
[Dwain] oh my god, it totally does! it's quite inconspicuous and low tech compared to newer models, but I've never noticed it! hahahahahaha. thanks Dan, that will come in handy!!!!
Considering buying the "KGS 254 M 602540000" and looking at the specs it can also cut aluminum and cooper sheets,etc.. can it also cut steel tubes 30x30x2mm ?
any mitre saw will cut aluminium and copper tubes etc. You just have to have the right blade (I've even cut ally with my wood blade VERY carefully). Some people say it's ok with a steel blade, others say no. I've never tried. Dwain
@@OZToolTalk thx for the reply. I did actually goto the DIY store this weekend and saw on sale, but they didnt have the blade for metal cutting, would of been an extra €45 euros on top. Thanks
I have its predecessor the KGS 254. The plastic handle at the rear where you adjust the bevel worn twice as did someone else that I know so I hope they've sorted that out?
Does anyone know if there's a fine-tune adjustment on this? Mine is cutting slightly out of square. I've adjusted the back plate several times without success.
Hello) please do you know how to adjust the 45 degree bevel stop? It is inaccurate on my 254 kgs, thank you, best regards Mulisy
Nice review I have the smaller model hardly any use spent a lot of time trying to get it to cut straight. Cut line changes as it slides in and out. Fence is square to blade. Laser stop working , light stopped working and clamp thread slips. Want to like this saw but frustrating.
fyi, your dewalt also has depth of cut screw on the same side. you flick down a lever to engage it, have a look. Cheers.
Thanks.
Greetings from Germany!
Very informative thanks
Thanks for the review. I have the same saw and like it very much. When I first used it I noticed the slide seemed rough--sounded rough and scratchy. I thought perhaps something was wrong with the slide feature of my saw, but then I noticed other KGS 254 were the same. Yours made the same scratchy noise when you slide the saw forward or backward., but you didn't mention it. Just something to keep in mind for a new owner--it is a normal sound for this saw.
The one feature that I don't like about this saw is the dust collection. it comes with a dust bag, which you did not have on the saw you demonstrated, but it is nearly useless. I would have expected better dust collection from a Metabo saw. What say you?
They all say the same for the Makita with 4 rails too
Thank you, I was just about to return mine because of that sound. Doesn‘t feel as smooth as I‘d expect it to be though.
Nice review, thank you. I have exactly the same saw (it is my first chopsaw ever) and since I own it I have a feeling that when I chop the "head" of the machine can be slightly bent to the sides which really annoys me because it is difficult to achieve a really precise rectangle. Even when I saw something it might create an unclean cut. Have you experienced something like that? Is it possible to set this up somehow?
[Dwain] Hi Gabor. No I didn't experience anything like you are describing. Have you checked your cuts with a square to confirm that there really is an issue?
Oz Tool Talk Hi Dwain, I have talked to a professional this weekend, showed him the saw, and he said that such movement is normal, and that during chopping one should not force the head nor down nor to the sides. Just let the blade dictate the pace. Anyway, we set up the thing to near perfection. Quite happy with that.
[Dwain] good to hear Gabor :)
It seemed to squeak as you raised and lowered the saw head. Is that something lubrication might be able to fix? It is deep, isn't it - not like the Bosch Radial Glide.
+Henning Johansen yeah I didn't really notice it until I was videoing. It's gone now, a little lubricant in the main spring. Yeah, I think the Bosch is the only saw capable of wide cuts without needing a deep workspace. But not anywhere this price.
+ITubeTooInc yeah that is a good solution by festool. Though Dewalt do have a saw with a similar solution, the DW777, where the rail passes inside the handle/motor housing.
I notice that the vertical bevel (blade tilt) has a 47 / 2 degree tilt. Does the machine have a way to lock in at a full zero degrees to ensure a proper vertical cut similar to the turntable that can lock in various preset angles. Looking at the machine there doesn't appear to be and it would seem problematic to cut accurate vertical cuts. I can imagine all too frequently that trying to dial in that elusive zero degrees would result in wastage. Even more so if you are doing lots of cuts and the locking mechanism at the back slacks a bit causing a small amount of drift.
Good review though and am seriously looking at this machine for my own toolset.
+TheSnowwraith from memory it was very easy to get zero degrees on the bevel too. I'll try to confirm for you ...
they are nice saws for a budget i have the old kgs216m.
How's you've found the 216? Any issues to be aware of?
I am on the verge of bying it, looks very nice!!! One question though. I 've been through the online manuals in metabo website and can't fine anything about fine adjustment of vertical 90 and 45 degrees. Other bevel miter saws have two bolts that adjust the 45 and 90 degrees bevel. Can you adjust the vertical 90 or 45 bevel in this saw if they are not perfect? Is it the little screw below the swivel point at the back?
??? Same question
Just checked out Revolution industrial, their site does not recognise this saw. or compound mitre saw, or KGS 254 M, in any format
yeah video released mid 2016 ;)
Nice review mate. But for God's sake, please lubricate that joint, the noise it makes is just terrible!!!
Great review! - I just bought one of these off Adelaide Tools via Ebay ($499 delivered). Features are far above the Ryobi CSS1000 that I am about to retire.
Just on question that you maybe able to answer. If you look at your vid at 1.10 to 1.35 and again at 3.42 there is a small red knob at the rear of the saw close to the swing lock mechanism. This knob is not mentioned in the documentation that was provided with the saw or Google searches. I am loathe to twisting or pulling on this, (which would no doubt result in some sort of catastrophe). Any thoughts?
Keep up the good work - Regards
Patrick Williams thanks for the comment 👍🏼
Dwain does great work. (This is mike btw)
I think your looking at the trenching adjustment knob ?
So the very rear knob is to lock the slide rails back and the next one up is a trenching adjustment knob.
I hope that helps ... ?
Hi Mike, thanks for the prompt reply. The knob I am referring is at the very rear of the pivot next to the compound locking lever. I know about the trenching knob and slide locking lever. The trenching setup is excellent feature on this saw. You usually need to attach a sacrificial fence to allow a "full" cut, otherwise you you end up with a curved trench (found out the hard way).
I will bite the bullet and see if I can figure out what it is for. I have not yet trued the saw so no harm as yet.
Regards
Pat
[Dwain] I'm pretty sure you're referring to the slide adjustment knob. It adjusts how easy or hard the slide mechanism is to operate.
Hi Guys, figured it out. The compound cut is from 0 - 45 degrees (as normal). The knob is an actual button you press to allow an extra 2 degrees to both the left and right set point of 0 and 45. This gives you a 45 - 47 and 0 to Minus 2 degrees variance should you need it - Very cool!
Regards
Pat Williams
cool Patrick
You mentioned about the price of $450 for the item. I clicked on their web site, and it is listed $539. I want to buy one for DIY home improvement. I have had battery operated circular saw, and it is time consuming for a small project, like making a seating bench. Do you know much about KGS 216 M? What are the differences between KGS 254M and KGS 216m? Thanks
Hi Sahn, the difference in those model numbers is that one is larger (254) and the price in their website will be the RRP. Have a hunt around and you will find it cheaper than the RRP.
Hope that helps.(mike)
Hey Dwain. This saw looks really nice. Do you know if you can get this or a similar model anywhere in the US?
+drayne3750 not sure sorry buddy.
Thanks for the nice review.
The depth adjustment doesn't look that useful as the blade didn't go back far enough to cut as deep at the rear as at the front.
You will probably have to put some wood behind the actual piece you are cutting to be able to move the blade back far enough to cut the same depth all the way through. The centre of the blade should be able to move past both the front and rear of the piece you are cutting to be able to make an even depth cut all the way through. Otherwise it will be round in the ends like the blade itself.
+ITubeTooInc you're right, and I wish i'd picked it up for the video. but it's no bid deal to have the work piece chocked out by another small piece of timber to avoid this issue. I think most/all other saws would suffer the same issue. Allowing the centre of the blade to pass the back fence would add unnecessary length to the saw.
+Oz Tool Talk "but it's no bid deal to have the work piece chocked out by another small piece of timber to avoid this issue."
Yes that will be the workaround for this issue. You just have to be aware of this when usings saws like this.
Overall this Metabo 10" Sliding Mitre Saw looks like great bang for the buck compared to the usual suspects like Bosch, DeWalt, Makita, Milwaukee, Hitachi etc. whose 10" sliding mitre saw offerings are usually more expensive than this Metabo KGS 254 M.
+ITubeTooInc [Dwain] yeah I think it does quite well in terms of value too.
You didn't mention anything about the dust extraction. Have you tested that and how well does it work?
+ITubeTooInc No I didn't test it. I don't have functional dust extraction setup at the moment, but I could have tested the bag at least I suppose.
+ITubeTooInc [Dwain] By the way, I appreciate your constructive feedback, you obviously know your tools quite well. It's ok to say' hi' or 'thanks' as well :)
+Oz Tool Talk Yes sorry about that. I really like your reviews, probably the best I have come across on CZcams actually.
+ITubeTooInc [Dwain] Thanks man, that means a lot to me!
+Oz Tool Talk I especially like your H2H reviews or at least when you make sure to compare the reviewed tool to other similar tools you have have tried out. A review first gets really interesting when it's compared to the competition by someone who has lots of experience using different tools and brands. After all, you want to know how it stacks up against the competition so you know what's good and what's not so good compared to what else is out there. A review of say a drill by someone who has never used another drill brand isn't really all that interesting as he has no reference point to compare to.
Some reviewers are also very biased towards certain brands and you feel they have already made their judgment before testing it just by knowing what brand it is. But you guys seems pretty objective and unbiased in your reviews. It helps a lot that you do specific test to tell runtime, strength etc. instead of just drilling some random holes and give your opinion on what felt best. But numbers alone doesn't tell the whole story either, so a combination of actual test numbers and your own opinion on using the tools is the best way to do it.
So keep up the good work.
7:10 you see the difference between both sides? The cut runs deeper on one side.
Dope Yep because a block wasn’t put behind the primary material the trench cut ‘arc’ ramped up at the rear. Dwains rookie mistake 😜
(Mike)
@@OZToolTalk sorry, cant follow you o.O
@@zplitt9 Look carefully, the blade doesn't cut through all they way and that's why it seems off. Like Mike suggests, it's easily fixable with a small block between the backrest and material you're cutting.
Can you use it to cut metal, even aluminium? I've been completely unsuccessful in finding a mitre saw that will cut metal, thought there is a brand available only in Britain. Can you explain the limitation, why you can't just stick a metal cutting blade in one, (or can you, in practice?) and how can I cut metal mitres eg for picture frames?
+Julian Robinson cutting aluminium with even a regular blade is possible on any miter saw really, just not recommended. with an aluminium blade and taking it nice and slow, yes this would be fine. as for cutting steel, i have seen a steel blade, but I feel like it would be hard work on the saw. I'd spring for a chop saw if you want to cut steel.
+Oz Tool Talk Thanks for that, but I can't find a chop saw that does good mitres. I don't understand this clear distinction that metal saws don't do angles. Is there something I'm missing? I would like to get some authoritative opinion on why everyone says you can't use a mitre saw for steel, despite the existence of below linked mitre saw which apparently does a great job on steel but is not available in Australia? What is the real story here? Given the number of times the question is asked and never properly answered on the net, you'd be doing a great service to explain the situation well.
www.evolutiononlineshop.com/product/772_RAGE3-DB10MultipurposeDoubleBevelCompoundSlidingMiterSaw.aspx
+Julian Robinson hi Julian. I'm sorry but I don't confess to be a mitre saw expert, still less steel cutting. I do notice two points on that saw you linked. Very high power (2000W), but much lower RPM (2500RPM).
+Oz Tool Talk Thanks Dwain, good points.
I want to buy this for cutting Alluminum. I have a Diablo saw blade for it . The bore on these are 30mm . 4500rpm no load and loaded speed is perfect for cutting Alluminum.
Looks nice but what's all that squeaky sounds?
probably just guides that need oiling.
Great review, very informative, especially for a DIY newbie like me! How do you think the Metabo compares to the likes of Makita? I’m looking at buying my first mitre saw and am considering the Metabo or the Makita LS1018L so I’d be interested in your thoughts.
[Dwain] G'day Andrew, thanks for the feedback. Makita is more traditional woodworking tool, but Metabo is perhaps a little more 'premium' . I'd be looking into both closely!
Yeah, will do. Thanks again for the great review.
dust collector?
Great review. I was going to buy this, and put it on my 800mm deep workbench, but since you couldn't even fit it on yours, i guess i'm out of luck, since my workbench is mounted against the wall. Or do you remember just how deep it was?
think its about 1m in length.
Actually?
Rate batao
The Kubb throwing game you were making is great fun and a great outdoor party game to play in your garden at barbecues, family gatherings etc. It's very common here on the other side of the world in Denmark, since it is said to originate here from Scandinavia all the way back in the viking age. Here it's often just called viking game or king game too. Some places they also call it viking chess according to wikipedia: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kubb
Actually I thought it was mostly know here in Scandinavia, but I guess it has spread all over the world.
Maybe you should do a video on how to make the game yourself and link to the rules? You have already made some of the footage which you can reuse.
Anyway you can also google how to make your own Kubb set, here's one guide: www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Make-a-Kubb-Set/
World Championship Rules in several languages: www.vmkubb.com.ext.levonline.com/index.php/rules/complete-rules
U.S. National Championship Rules www.usakubb.org/rules.php
+ITubeTooInc Btw. also check out the similar Finnish game Mölkky which is just as fun and and easy to make yourself: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mölkky
According to Wikipedia this is also sold in Australia under names such as Finska and Klop.
It is also quite popular here in Denmark, where it's simply called points game.
Also check out www.tossinggames.com for other tossing games: www.tossinggames.com
+ITubeTooInc Thanks man. Yeah I considered making a video of it actually, and did film some (but not all) of the work. If I have time, I'll post some of it, put my amateur skills on youtube for the whole world to see.... :\
+ITubeTooInc I have been planning on making one of those games actually, though I knew it by the name Finksa! These games seem to be slowly spreading the world. I love them...
garbage, do not buy.