Holy crap Tinman, you're hitting ALL the little nuances! Took me YEARS to learn what your pointing out. Wish this video was around when I was learning. Excellent video.
This video is by far the best "How to file a chainsaw chain" I have watched (and I've watched a ton of experts). The real value of your video is that you not only show the process, but you also give a very good explanation of why you are doing it and what the consequences of incorrect profile are. Thank you for a very informative video.
He puts the bar cover on the tailgate of the truck to prevent the teeth from dulling while touching it but then jams the tip of the bar into the corner of the truck box.
‘I also prefer to pull with my right hand’ 😂 Seriously not enough Aussies watch your channel, they would have jumped all over that statement. Great video, best sharpening video I have seen yet 👍🏻
Great job on keeping the video simple and to the point!👍👍 I believe the biggest issues for most folks when learning are dull files (if you don't see a pile of metal you are just stroking the air), not applying near enough pressure and not near enough strokes of the file.(3 or 4 gentle strokes may work on a touch up but dull/damaged chain will ALOT more) I have broken a sweat many a times digging in and getting one truly ready to cut!🤠
Mr. Tinman once again you've put out a great video!! Easy to understand content and super good information. The demonstration on the wood shows people what to expect from a truly sharp chain!!! Kudos to you friend!
Thank you so much for this video. Chain sharpening is something I have been a bit timid to tackle but after watching this I feel like I can get started on it. Great detail and to the point.
thanks Mr. Tinman, I could never figure out where the file was exactly supposed to be and the close up with the camera helped answer that. You've helped me so much, thank you sir!
I hand filed all my saws. Usually in my vise. I bought plastic grips for the vise so I don't damage the bar. Use a Oregon guarge to .025 thou, then one full stroke on each raker so I likely end up at about .028 thou. The saws cut wicked good and never have a issue with skipping or being to sharp thus stalling out the saw. On another note got my 272xp in the wood today. Cut some 16" green ash. Man does it cut great. 20in Holzfforma bar with a full comp chain, new 266 muffler, new chain break, 234A tillotson carb,, new clutch (3C spring steel type) bearings, seals, cylinder, piston, deleted base gasket, new fuel line and filter, new oiler. My new favor saw...lol. I'll send you a video on email. Nice video as always. TC Mahalo Tinman🤙🤙🤙
Great video Tinman. Heard about you many times watching Buckin - he must be a great friend to have. He speaks only great things about his friends, mentions you often. I like your work. Great job sir.
Tinman, you and Buckin have done the best hand filing videos out there. I have found that since I adjusted my way of filing, my cutting experience has dramatically improved. The art of “knowing how to do stuff “ is dying slowly. Humanity has become a “disposable product consumer “ over the course of time. The big box stores power equipment is “Meh” and it has no longevity, thanks to folks mixing their own gas with ethanol mixed in. I quit running anything with ethanol in any of my 2 strokes. Have you thought about maybe doing a series on running 2 identical saws, running 40:1 in one and 50:1 in the other for a period of time and pulling the top ends off and checking ring wear, etc. I personally run 40:1 in all my saws and weed eating equipment. Thanks for all the info that you give out. Much love to you from NC🤙🤙
Loved this 👍 appreciate you using simple terms to describe things far too many channels with go overboard explaining things then the viewer gets confused especially newer users, awesome job and she cut like butter.
I use a Oregon guide and dig the gullet out after the top is sharp ,when the cutter is worn down it gets the gullet with the guide by itself . Nice video !
Great stuff. I love your emphasis on smooth cutting. I fix saws for a firm as part of my living and I see a lot of very blunt/damaged chains and chains with incorrect angles and gullets. This means that the operators are working much harder than they need to, are damaging bars (and saws) and exposing themselves to more risk than is necessary. When felling, it is harder to get accurate cuts with a blunt chain. Misplaced cuts make it more likely that your fell will go wrong. Running with a blunt chain gives the temptation to push on the saw or swing it on the dogs to force it to cut. When you're doing this you are gripping the saw harder which increases the effects of vibration on hands and arms. If your depth gauges are high, the same temptation applies. If your gullets are too deep (and depth gauges too low) you get more vibration and you have to hang on to the saw harder. Why am I getting excited about 'smooth cutting' and low vibes? 'Cos vibes cause tissue and nerve damage. Prolonged exposure to high levels of vibes causes carpal tunnel syndrome and/or Reynaud's syndrome (also known as vibration whitefinger or Hand Arm Vibration Syndrome). There is a painful and damned inconvenient operation to fix the first, but as the second is nerve damage and nerves don't regenerate, HAVS is yours for life, and it's life-changing. Happy days. Love this post and the older one.
It surprises me how many tree guys don't realize this or care. I custom file my chains so they perform much better than new, and when they are slightly duller than a new chain, its time to kiss it with a file. Too many tree guys don't understand that it costs you less time to keep up on a chain than wait till the teeth lost shape before sharpening.
@@nate2838 Yeah, me too! A lot of foremen and company owners don't seem to care either. They foster a culture of 'make the effort, get the job done'. But stopping at convenient points in the work for little, short breaks and a tickle on the saw chain keeps you fresh. It also speeds up the work in the long run 'cos as well as your cuts all taking less time and effort, while you 'tickle' and take on a drink of water, you can be thinking through the next fell or the route the forwarder is going to take to uplift your bunched product. You can direct your next fells so you can be efficient and economical on effort of doing the bunching. Keep your little breakies short and the foreman doesn't notice the same as he would for a longer sharpen. The boss doesn't notice, ditto, even if he (usually 'he') is on site. This is the same boss that has collated all the saw vibration stats, done the risk assessments and put them in the job pack and method statement and supplied them to the client. He is bound by them but usually is far more interested in 'more effort' than what they actually mean.
Great video Tinman,this video brought back a lot of memories I can remember my Grandfather showing me how to do this on the back of his truck bed when I was 15 years old,everyone should watch this video to always have a sharp chain and one that cuts.
The stihl 2 in 1 tool actually works really well. Takes a minute to get used to but it files in half the time. As for alternate sharpening spots- during the last ufc fight, i used a shipping box to hold the saw while i sharpened a few chains while in bed.
Great video Tinman! I purchased one of those Husky file guides about 3 years ago; piece of rubbish. The Stihl 2 -in-1 file guide is AWESOME! Love it but you've still got to check the gullet every now and then (no problemo). The Oregon grinder is too fast and removes too much of the tooth for my liking. The Granberg gadgets look pretty cool but I can't find them here in Australia so I've never had the chance to try one out.
Vielen Dank für das Video! Mit dieser im Video gezeigten Methode habe ich es nie hinbekommen. Da ich selbst nicht viel Holz mache habe ich auch nicht viele Ketten zum schleifen gehabt. Vor etwa 2 Jahren habe ich das 2 in 1 Schleifgerät von Stihl/Pferd (2 in 1 Chainsharpener) für mich entdeckt. Seitdem bekomme ich als ungeübter Kettenschleifer meine Ketten immer superscharf hin. Tiefenbegrenzer und Zahn werden gleichzeitig und in den richtigen Winkeln automatisch gefeilt. Die Form der Feile und die abgebildeten Grafiken ist es für jeden Laien/Profi sehr einfach scharfe Ketten zu feilen.
Nice Vid, tinman! I only handfiled all my life, but for the .404 rippinchains I now prefere to grab a grinder. They dull after every 3rd or 4th slap of oak (if you don't hit anything) and it gets a real pain in the a** to handfile them in the evening. For bucking and felling i use square ground chains and the are only handfiled (that grinder costs way to much and I like that filing - and want to train myself to get the filing to perfection). Best wishes to your wife an baby. Hope you're all doing well! Stay safe and secure!
If there is anything an aspiring saw wrench or porter should learn first, it's THIS, in my opiniom. If the chain ain't sharp, you're on the fast track to failure.
Thank you for dumbing it up. Don't take offense to me saying this. I watched 3 or 4 other videos and didn't understand what they were talking about. You helped me understand. Thank you. Really, I'd buy you a couple rounds if I were close. Thanks again
@@shakeyjake9813I wish you the best, brother. Get those chains SHARP and learn how to recognize when they are going dull and learn how different sharpening angles do with different types of wood. It's a big deal.
It is cool seeing you sharpen with the same tools I do that little roller guide does work good if you hand file the chain first and get the gullet then use the roller gadget to get the top plate razor sharp and at the rite angle I stopped using mine though practice and a good teacher thanks bucken
This was an excellent one Tinman!! You are right about a sharp chain making any saw much faster cutting and more enjoyable as well as you don't have to fight the saw. Keep the great content up and enjoy being a dad!!!!!
THANK YOU! My saw has been stalling, when dogged in. Been keeping the rakers higher, but I didn't know that about the "C". Gonna play around with this. Great video
Hey bud, just started watching your channel. For a long time I kept listening to Buckin and he kept talking about Tinman. One time he said you should go to Tinmans channel and see what he’s about. So I have listened to 6 or so videos. I enjoy your videos and have picked up some things, so thank you and keep sharing your knowledge.
Great video! Especially about the burr. I would have shown people the tooth slightly before the burr forms, looking from the front. You can usually see a little line across right below the top of the tooth. Some people don't realize how far you actually go to get to the top of the tooth. I like that you go heavy into it, to get the gullet back, and then lighten up when you are close to the top and making the final few strokes. And, you talked about too much hook a little, and not enough. You said have the file about 2/3 down, to get the correct C, and I think that is where experience on how hard and when to push down, lighten up a little, etc. comes in. You could have showed a little more on rakers. But, everyone figures that out pretty quick. I do them all from my strong side, and just angle the file a little more on the wrong side, so it doesn't chatter. I just got a crappy blue grinder, and I cannot get that thing to make me a decent chain. Yeah, it is a bit faster to sharpen - but then I need to go back and hand file all the chain again anyway ... so it actually takes almost twice as long.
I sharpen just like that when I'm not at my vice, bar stuffed into the corner of my pickup bed. I use those same files and just the raker gauge not the roller thing. One more thing on those file handles it has the a 25 and 30° side the 30° side lines up with the line on the chain so if you just push the file all the way to the bar it helps you keep a consistent angle. I don't push it right to the handle every stroke but just to keep it in check.
I love those Husqvarna filing kits , the handle is perfect and I love the guide , I go both by eye and with those roller guides , I'm getting close to not needing the guide anymore but I still use it to double check myself , it will be nice when I get to where I don't need it anymore but I will always carry it to use as a teaching tool if nothing else , great video tinman , one of these days I want to get a tinman special I have a 372xp(xtorque that I would like to convert to an oe) that I'd like to send you to work your magic on and then further down the line a 2188 Jred , 390xp 394xp 395xp , I also have some 200 series huskies that were left to me out by uncle along with the afore mentioned 372xp (I also have a Jred 2172 which I love dearly as it is. all the xps had been out of use for a couple years before they came my way and they could all use a little tlc and refreshing, and there's only a select few people who I'd feel confident in sending them off to , you , Charlie brisco, iron horse, and walker are my top choices but I'm still happy with how they run as they are aka I haven't felt the need for more power out of them yet
I find the filing guide for the x-cut chains are perfect. I find they cut the gullet out just fine. The only thing I don't like, they don't work on the stihl chain.
I love those Husqvarna filing kits as well. My 545 cuts like a banshee especially when the rakers are filled to spec. The kit is recommended by Husqvarna in the owners manual so that alone sold me.
New Subscriber Mr. Tinman! Great video and explanation on filing. Watching this and also Buckin Billy Ray have helped me out. Found your Channel when some firewood friends posted videos of you at Bunyan! Thanks again for the knowledge.
Dang it your going to make me sharpen my old chains as well as buying a couple new ones for next weekend. I have a big oak to drop and cleanup. I want good sharp chains for this. The tree needs to go between a shed and power line and not hit the neighbors house. It has just a bit of canopy weight on the backside but it’s perfectly square to the fall line so I’m confident I can do it. If there was nothing around I feel like I could do it free hand so adding a winch line and using wedges as insurance I’m fairly confident in the drop, and my insurance 😂😂😂. I’ll charge $1 to make it business to make it covered without question. I initially spent 10 minutes looking at it thinking a climber was needed until I saw the line. The lightbulb went on, and I said I’ll do it if the neighbor gives written permission with a statement saying if the ground was disturbed it wouldn’t be considered damage.
Sharpening chainsaw chains with a file is for people who like using washboards to wash their close as opposed to using a washing machine, and for people who like using hand saws vs skil saws, and so on. The best way to sharpen a chainsaw chain is with a Dremel Tool with the right size sharpening stone. You can buy the Dremel Tool and the sharpening stones at Lowe's or Home Depot. Sharpening chains with a Dremel tool is three times faster than sharpening it with a file, and it takes of half the amount of metal, which means if you're using a Dremel Tool to sharpen your chains they will last twice as long. And this is no joke or exaggeration.
Oh, and I like to watch the shavings from the file, right before you get to the top of the tooth straight across, you can see them forming right above the file contact point, and the burr usually comes the next stroke or 2.
I've found Oregon 73 chain comes set up for hardwood. Most of my cutting here is softwood (Pinus Radiata, Radiata pine, through your probably know it as Monterey pine) through depending on what the wind blows down I can do a lot of hardwood (New Zealand Red Beech and Kanuka). So first thing out of the box onto the bar is to hit the rakers to take a bigger bite. It's not worth having different chains for different woods, I just put up with grabby chains when doing hardwood and good cutting in softwood. I have to admit tho, I'd like to get the parts saws fixed and run a softwood saw and a hardwood saw. Identical 120si Dolmars with differently set up chains. It also looks like you're using 4.8mm file on .325? Why not 4mm? That's what I use on the 52cc 111 Dolmar. The 4.8mm gets used on the 3/8 chain.
When I saw the thumbnail and title I thought this was a Buckin video! Tin man you are awesome I love your work. I hope someday soon I can send you a saw to build for me. Take care buddy and be kind
Great video man! I'm sharpening a .325 chain with 3/16 file and I'm cutting into straps just above rivets. Not sure if it's a husqvarna thing or not but seems like chain would get compromised
I recently bought a chainsaw with a dull chain through Facebook marketplace.Luckily i have another chain. Though i have been trying to sharpen the dull chain with little change.
sooo, ya can't just put the chain on backwards and run it through the embedded barbed wire in the stump and get it back to sharp? : ) I went through all my spare chains last week, cutting huge old dead oaks away from my friends house. Any time the trees are in a line on an old farm.... good chance theres wire in the stumps. I've got plenty of filing to do next rainy day in the shop... Thank you for the video, you have a pleasant way of teaching. I remember learning how to file by watching my dad, ( the angry man with the chainsaw) when I was a kid. George.
@@rhysfirth3506 It was a tough week there. I got struck by a Copperhead snake, stung by hornets that got under the cuffs of my gloves while they were attacking the chainsaw, I got poison ivy just about everywhere and I got about a hundred redbug bites. The snake did not get its fangs in me, as it struck the front of my Pfanner chainsaw pants. I climbed and rigged and cut four oaks and one big black gum. One of the oaks had a huge broken limb that had fallen onto the ridge of the house. The limb was nearly sixteen inches in diameter at the base, fourty or so feet long. I rigged it with a bridle and was able to raise, then swing and lower it. I work by myself and it was alot of rigging and ascending and prep work. My friend can now feel safe during a storm and not worry about any of the dead tall oaks falling on her home. Floods have killed many trees on her farm. I am almost done itching from all the bites and stings. Smiling, George.
@@trimbaker1893 I'm glad we have no snakes. Nor venomous spiders other than some Australians who live in the undergrowth, not in trees. The firewood I'm doing were the shade trees planted for a small schoolhouse and yard in the 20's and 30's. The school is long gone, and the trees are near the end of their lives. Mum wants to put a house there where the school was, and it's not safe with those trees standing. So bit by bit they are going through the fireplace.
@@rhysfirth3506 That sounds nice. Yesterday I split a truckload of the oak for a friend that needs firewood. I have to say, I was keeping an eye on the ground for the next snake...
@@trimbaker1893 when I went to Australia I actually went hunting snakes... Never found any, plenty of spiders however. Big spiders. You can see the trunk I'm ringing down into rounds of you click my username. I timed the cutting speed on a new out of the box Oregon chain using the timestamps in the editing software.
You file just like me. But I one hand both sides. I was tired of finding something the right height to put my tip against, and my tailgate isn't always in the shade. Bsafe bud
Use the little husky flat steel raker guage with hard, thicker side and the soft thinner side so you can take a little more of your drags down . I'm thinking about trying the hard side more because I have lots of hard wood. Lot of popular also. Yeah, huskys rakerp plate is fire but that 1 u have looks pretty cool
I watch your video and from experienced fella doing chain saw sharpening in 70's withx12 years experience on shop chain sharpener I still can't see how you can hold still the chain for good smooth sharpen So till this day I I can't see doing it by hand too much rocking sway in bar guide of rocking for good clean pass every push of file.
My dad is all the time bringing me his saw with a trashed chain and it takes alot to clean it up and he is always commenting that his chains don't last long and I tell him to quit destroying his chains !
I have some neighbors like this...Honestly believe that a guy will never truly be careful about staying out the dirt, rocks,metal and dirty wood in general until he learns to sharpen his own and can appreciate the work it takes. I can hear them cutting out here in the country from miles away. I know exactly when they hit something and the sound of saw changes. Yet they just keep going until smoke is rolling off the bars!🙄 It is painful for me to listen too...
This is my problem. 10:00 Just like your right hand, I rotate the file. 10:12 As soon as I give the file to my left hand, the rotation stops. How long will it take to teach that hand ??? -- North Central FL
Good stuff. Very interesting seeing the results of "wrong file, too big" and how to correct it. Have you experimented with "the wrong file that's too small"? Like a 5/32 instead of the 3/16? I think Buckin did that as an experiment, could be interesting. Hope all is good with the new "little tinman" ( or would that be Tinman Jr?) and your wife.
While the tip up vs down is very important with the correct file, its absolutely critical with the wrong file. Too big? Tip down to get under the tip of the tooth. Too small? Tip up to cut the corner instead of undercutting the tooth. Its also helpful to start with a downward angle to develop a seat for your file on the inside (opposite the cutting corner) corner to use for stability while sharpening with a different curve than it already has. This also works great when the saw is damaged, and is essentially the boat stroke.
Holy crap Tinman, you're hitting ALL the little nuances! Took me YEARS to learn what your pointing out. Wish this video was around when I was learning. Excellent video.
This video is by far the best "How to file a chainsaw chain" I have watched (and I've watched a ton of experts). The real value of your video is that you not only show the process, but you also give a very good explanation of why you are doing it and what the consequences of incorrect profile are. Thank you for a very informative video.
Just picked up a husky 44 practica white top Minty barn find 25 bucks cant wait to get it running. Love the vids.
Thanks, Tinman. I really like your use of the truck box corner as a “vise”. I hadn’t thought of doing that. Old dog learns new trick.
He puts the bar cover on the tailgate of the truck to prevent the teeth from dulling while touching it but then jams the tip of the bar into the corner of the truck box.
‘I also prefer to pull with my right hand’ 😂
Seriously not enough Aussies watch your channel, they would have jumped all over that statement.
Great video, best sharpening video I have seen yet 👍🏻
Great job on keeping the video simple and to the point!👍👍
I believe the biggest issues for most folks when learning are dull files (if you don't see a pile of metal you are just stroking the air), not applying near enough pressure and not near enough strokes of the file.(3 or 4 gentle strokes may work on a touch up but dull/damaged chain will ALOT more) I have broken a sweat many a times digging in and getting one truly ready to cut!🤠
That's one sharp chain, great filling 😊
Mr. Tinman once again you've put out a great video!! Easy to understand content and super good information. The demonstration on the wood shows people what to expect from a truly sharp chain!!! Kudos to you friend!
This is one of the best sharpening videos that I have seen. You and Buckin nailed it!
Thanks, Tinman. Solid reminders here
Great explanation and pointers👍🏻 even if one's been casually filing chain for years, it never hurts to hear some reminders!
Finally, a clear and detailed sharpening vid. Thank you.
Thank you so much for this video. Chain sharpening is something I have been a bit timid to tackle but after watching this I feel like I can get started on it. Great detail and to the point.
thanks Mr. Tinman, I could never figure out where the file was exactly supposed to be and the close up with the camera helped answer that. You've helped me so much, thank you sir!
I hand filed all my saws. Usually in my vise. I bought plastic grips for the vise so I don't damage the bar. Use a Oregon guarge to .025 thou, then one full stroke on each raker so I likely end up at about .028 thou. The saws cut wicked good and never have a issue with skipping or being to sharp thus stalling out the saw. On another note got my 272xp in the wood today. Cut some 16" green ash. Man does it cut great. 20in Holzfforma bar with a full comp chain, new 266 muffler, new chain break, 234A tillotson carb,, new clutch (3C spring steel type) bearings, seals, cylinder, piston, deleted base gasket, new fuel line and filter, new oiler. My new favor saw...lol. I'll send you a video on email. Nice video as always. TC Mahalo Tinman🤙🤙🤙
Great video Tinman. Heard about you many times watching Buckin - he must be a great friend to have. He speaks only great things about his friends, mentions you often. I like your work. Great job sir.
Tinman, you and Buckin have done the best hand filing videos out there. I have found that since I adjusted my way of filing, my cutting experience has dramatically improved. The art of “knowing how to do stuff “ is dying slowly. Humanity has become a “disposable product consumer “ over the course of time. The big box stores power equipment is “Meh” and it has no longevity, thanks to folks mixing their own gas with ethanol mixed in. I quit running anything with ethanol in any of my 2 strokes. Have you thought about maybe doing a series on running 2 identical saws, running 40:1 in one and 50:1 in the other for a period of time and pulling the top ends off and checking ring wear, etc. I personally run 40:1 in all my saws and weed eating equipment. Thanks for all the info that you give out. Much love to you from NC🤙🤙
A filing tutorial like no other,in short excellent workmanship 😊
Enjoyed the video, done it wrong for years .... all the best from Arkansas!!!
Loved this 👍 appreciate you using simple terms to describe things far too many channels with go overboard explaining things then the viewer gets confused especially newer users, awesome job and she cut like butter.
Thank you for your time Tinman. Much appreciated brother. Wooooohooooooo heck yeah buddy she's sharp. Nice work. 🌲❤️🌲👊🪓
I use a Oregon guide and dig the gullet out after the top is sharp ,when the cutter is worn down it gets the gullet with the guide by itself . Nice video !
Best video on chainsaw, blade sharpening very informative. Good video I’m impressed.
Great stuff. I love your emphasis on smooth cutting.
I fix saws for a firm as part of my living and I see a lot of very blunt/damaged chains and chains with incorrect angles and gullets. This means that the operators are working much harder than they need to, are damaging bars (and saws) and exposing themselves to more risk than is necessary. When felling, it is harder to get accurate cuts with a blunt chain. Misplaced cuts make it more likely that your fell will go wrong. Running with a blunt chain gives the temptation to push on the saw or swing it on the dogs to force it to cut. When you're doing this you are gripping the saw harder which increases the effects of vibration on hands and arms. If your depth gauges are high, the same temptation applies. If your gullets are too deep (and depth gauges too low) you get more vibration and you have to hang on to the saw harder.
Why am I getting excited about 'smooth cutting' and low vibes? 'Cos vibes cause tissue and nerve damage. Prolonged exposure to high levels of vibes causes carpal tunnel syndrome and/or Reynaud's syndrome (also known as vibration whitefinger or Hand Arm Vibration Syndrome). There is a painful and damned inconvenient operation to fix the first, but as the second is nerve damage and nerves don't regenerate, HAVS is yours for life, and it's life-changing. Happy days.
Love this post and the older one.
It surprises me how many tree guys don't realize this or care. I custom file my chains so they perform much better than new, and when they are slightly duller than a new chain, its time to kiss it with a file.
Too many tree guys don't understand that it costs you less time to keep up on a chain than wait till the teeth lost shape before sharpening.
@@nate2838 Yeah, me too! A lot of foremen and company owners don't seem to care either. They foster a culture of 'make the effort, get the job done'. But stopping at convenient points in the work for little, short breaks and a tickle on the saw chain keeps you fresh. It also speeds up the work in the long run 'cos as well as your cuts all taking less time and effort, while you 'tickle' and take on a drink of water, you can be thinking through the next fell or the route the forwarder is going to take to uplift your bunched product. You can direct your next fells so you can be efficient and economical on effort of doing the bunching.
Keep your little breakies short and the foreman doesn't notice the same as he would for a longer sharpen. The boss doesn't notice, ditto, even if he (usually 'he') is on site. This is the same boss that has collated all the saw vibration stats, done the risk assessments and put them in the job pack and method statement and supplied them to the client. He is bound by them but usually is far more interested in 'more effort' than what they actually mean.
@@anemone104 Well said.
Great video Tinman,this video brought back a lot of memories I can remember my Grandfather showing me how to do this on the back of his truck bed when I was 15 years old,everyone should watch this video to always have a sharp chain and one that cuts.
Thank you thank you thank you. I've been waiting for a down to earth sharpening video. God bless sir.
The stihl 2 in 1 tool actually works really well. Takes a minute to get used to but it files in half the time.
As for alternate sharpening spots- during the last ufc fight, i used a shipping box to hold the saw while i sharpened a few chains while in bed.
Great video Tinman! I purchased one of those Husky file guides about 3 years ago; piece of rubbish. The Stihl 2 -in-1 file guide is AWESOME! Love it but you've still got to check the gullet every now and then (no problemo). The Oregon grinder is too fast and removes too much of the tooth for my liking. The Granberg gadgets look pretty cool but I can't find them here in Australia so I've never had the chance to try one out.
Thanks Tinman best sharpening tutorial ever.👍
Very good explanation! Many thanks for making chainsaw sharpening so clear and concise..
Vielen Dank für das Video! Mit dieser im Video gezeigten Methode habe ich es nie hinbekommen. Da ich selbst nicht viel Holz mache habe ich auch nicht viele Ketten zum schleifen gehabt. Vor etwa 2 Jahren habe ich das 2 in 1 Schleifgerät von Stihl/Pferd (2 in 1 Chainsharpener) für mich entdeckt. Seitdem bekomme ich als ungeübter Kettenschleifer meine Ketten immer superscharf hin. Tiefenbegrenzer und Zahn werden gleichzeitig und in den richtigen Winkeln automatisch gefeilt. Die Form der Feile und die abgebildeten Grafiken ist es für jeden Laien/Profi sehr einfach scharfe Ketten zu feilen.
I do mine the same way having a sharp chain definitely make work easier great video
The one video I was looking for
Nice Vid, tinman! I only handfiled all my life, but for the .404 rippinchains I now prefere to grab a grinder. They dull after every 3rd or 4th slap of oak (if you don't hit anything) and it gets a real pain in the a** to handfile them in the evening. For bucking and felling i use square ground chains and the are only handfiled (that grinder costs way to much and I like that filing - and want to train myself to get the filing to perfection).
Best wishes to your wife an baby. Hope you're all doing well! Stay safe and secure!
Thank you man , your explain was perfect 🖐️👌🙏👍⚙️🪚🌻🌸
Thanks for the vid.
Soooooooo much better by hand. I tossed my electric bench sharpener now.
Thank you sir I am happy your watching videos I am Bengali right now very very thank god is play
If there is anything an aspiring saw wrench or porter should learn first, it's THIS, in my opiniom. If the chain ain't sharp, you're on the fast track to failure.
Thank you for dumbing it up. Don't take offense to me saying this. I watched 3 or 4 other videos and didn't understand what they were talking about. You helped me understand.
Thank you.
Really, I'd buy you a couple rounds if I were close.
Thanks again
@@shakeyjake9813I wish you the best, brother. Get those chains SHARP and learn how to recognize when they are going dull and learn how different sharpening angles do with different types of wood. It's a big deal.
It is cool seeing you sharpen with the same tools I do that little roller guide does work good if you hand file the chain first and get the gullet then use the roller gadget to get the top plate razor sharp and at the rite angle I stopped using mine though practice and a good teacher thanks bucken
Hey Tinman. This is Old School.
How about showing square grinding?
Or maybe the new Stihl hexa filing system.
Love your work Big Guy.
I see you change hands too. That’s how I do it as well. I think it’s the way everyone should learn. Definitely faster and only once around the chain.
This was an excellent one Tinman!! You are right about a sharp chain making any saw much faster cutting and more enjoyable as well as you don't have to fight the saw. Keep the great content up and enjoy being a dad!!!!!
Excellent video, short and to the point, thanks very much.
THANK YOU! My saw has been stalling, when dogged in. Been keeping the rakers higher, but I didn't know that about the "C". Gonna play around with this. Great video
Hey bud, just started watching your channel. For a long time I kept listening to Buckin and he kept talking about Tinman. One time he said you should go to Tinmans channel and see what he’s about. So I have listened to 6 or so videos. I enjoy your videos and have picked up some things, so thank you and keep sharing your knowledge.
Good Video Tinman, that 44 is an old 🪚 Saw,. I got one, also 266XP early 80s, My Favorite, Gen. 1, 55Rancher, 372XP , before X Torqued it.
Thannks you answered every question I wanted to ask. Including the hows and whys.
I always wanted a friend... Which is why I watch your videos 😊
I'm hearing ya tinman, I'm getting what your putting down mate!
Nice well explained
Great video! Especially about the burr. I would have shown people the tooth slightly before the burr forms, looking from the front. You can usually see a little line across right below the top of the tooth. Some people don't realize how far you actually go to get to the top of the tooth. I like that you go heavy into it, to get the gullet back, and then lighten up when you are close to the top and making the final few strokes. And, you talked about too much hook a little, and not enough. You said have the file about 2/3 down, to get the correct C, and I think that is where experience on how hard and when to push down, lighten up a little, etc. comes in. You could have showed a little more on rakers. But, everyone figures that out pretty quick. I do them all from my strong side, and just angle the file a little more on the wrong side, so it doesn't chatter. I just got a crappy blue grinder, and I cannot get that thing to make me a decent chain. Yeah, it is a bit faster to sharpen - but then I need to go back and hand file all the chain again anyway ... so it actually takes almost twice as long.
Excellent video
Thanks for the lesson. Nice work.
Great video Tinman. I like to hand file as well. Good therapy. 👍🏻
I am going to share this on my channel videos.
Man, this came into my YT feed and I am given a thumbs up 👍 on this video just for that man's t-shirt 👍
Trimah kasih penjelasannya,sangat lengkap dan bermanfaat,salam Indonesia hadir
Nice detail on the video. Love the 44's. I still grind to prefered angles then hit each tooth to finish things off. Good stuff tinman. Thank you
But you cant file a tooth that's been grinded?
Best sharing demo I've see thank you
I sharpen just like that when I'm not at my vice, bar stuffed into the corner of my pickup bed. I use those same files and just the raker gauge not the roller thing. One more thing on those file handles it has the a 25 and 30° side the 30° side lines up with the line on the chain so if you just push the file all the way to the bar it helps you keep a consistent angle. I don't push it right to the handle every stroke but just to keep it in check.
I've tried every gadget out there ,but am back to regular old filing now,thanks to watching Buckin.
I love those Husqvarna filing kits , the handle is perfect and I love the guide , I go both by eye and with those roller guides , I'm getting close to not needing the guide anymore but I still use it to double check myself , it will be nice when I get to where I don't need it anymore but I will always carry it to use as a teaching tool if nothing else , great video tinman , one of these days I want to get a tinman special I have a 372xp(xtorque that I would like to convert to an oe) that I'd like to send you to work your magic on and then further down the line a 2188 Jred , 390xp 394xp 395xp , I also have some 200 series huskies that were left to me out by uncle along with the afore mentioned 372xp (I also have a Jred 2172 which I love dearly as it is. all the xps had been out of use for a couple years before they came my way and they could all use a little tlc and refreshing, and there's only a select few people who I'd feel confident in sending them off to , you , Charlie brisco, iron horse, and walker are my top choices but I'm still happy with how they run as they are aka I haven't felt the need for more power out of them yet
I find the filing guide for the x-cut chains are perfect. I find they cut the gullet out just fine. The only thing I don't like, they don't work on the stihl chain.
@@markatkinson9963 why dont they work on stihl chain?
I love those Husqvarna filing kits as well.
My 545 cuts like a banshee especially when the rakers are filled to spec.
The kit is recommended by Husqvarna in the owners manual so that alone sold me.
New Subscriber Mr. Tinman! Great video and explanation on filing. Watching this and also Buckin Billy Ray have helped me out. Found your Channel when some firewood friends posted videos of you at Bunyan! Thanks again for the knowledge.
Dang it your going to make me sharpen my old chains as well as buying a couple new ones for next weekend. I have a big oak to drop and cleanup. I want good sharp chains for this.
The tree needs to go between a shed and power line and not hit the neighbors house. It has just a bit of canopy weight on the backside but it’s perfectly square to the fall line so I’m confident I can do it. If there was nothing around I feel like I could do it free hand so adding a winch line and using wedges as insurance I’m fairly confident in the drop, and my insurance 😂😂😂. I’ll charge $1 to make it business to make it covered without question. I initially spent 10 minutes looking at it thinking a climber was needed until I saw the line. The lightbulb went on, and I said I’ll do it if the neighbor gives written permission with a statement saying if the ground was disturbed it wouldn’t be considered damage.
Sharpening chainsaw chains with a file is for people who like using washboards to wash their close as opposed to using a washing machine, and for people who like using hand saws vs skil saws, and so on. The best way to sharpen a chainsaw chain is with a Dremel Tool with the right size sharpening stone. You can buy the Dremel Tool and the sharpening stones at Lowe's or Home Depot.
Sharpening chains with a Dremel tool is three times faster than sharpening it with a file, and it takes of half the amount of metal, which means if you're using a Dremel Tool to sharpen your chains they will last twice as long. And this is no joke or exaggeration.
You’re a great teacher!
Nice explanation. Thanks
Really good sharpening video Tinman. Love your videos
Oh, and I like to watch the shavings from the file, right before you get to the top of the tooth straight across, you can see them forming right above the file contact point, and the burr usually comes the next stroke or 2.
Awesome job thank you tin man very good demonstration
Awesome video. Nice saw there ! I've seen you run the big ones for so long, you make the 44 look tiny. Keep em coming friend.
I like the file guide for the x-cut chain. It doesn't work for the stihl chains though.keeps you on track to keep that edge.
Tinman you are sooo great!
I've found Oregon 73 chain comes set up for hardwood. Most of my cutting here is softwood (Pinus Radiata, Radiata pine, through your probably know it as Monterey pine) through depending on what the wind blows down I can do a lot of hardwood (New Zealand Red Beech and Kanuka).
So first thing out of the box onto the bar is to hit the rakers to take a bigger bite.
It's not worth having different chains for different woods, I just put up with grabby chains when doing hardwood and good cutting in softwood.
I have to admit tho, I'd like to get the parts saws fixed and run a softwood saw and a hardwood saw. Identical 120si Dolmars with differently set up chains.
It also looks like you're using 4.8mm file on .325? Why not 4mm? That's what I use on the 52cc 111 Dolmar. The 4.8mm gets used on the 3/8 chain.
You helped me a lot…My question is does it matter what size file you use to sharpen your chain?
excellent description!! very helpful
When I saw the thumbnail and title I thought this was a Buckin video!
Tin man you are awesome I love your work.
I hope someday soon I can send you a saw to build for me.
Take care buddy and be kind
after watching buckins videos a have learn to file the chain very charp.
Thanks man, cause before I saw this I would have been like Eddie Murphy trying to change brakes on his Lear Jet.
Great video man! I'm sharpening a .325 chain with 3/16 file and I'm cutting into straps just above rivets. Not sure if it's a husqvarna thing or not but seems like chain would get compromised
Im glad I been a logger all my life I can sharpen a enbred chain a mean chain
I recently bought a chainsaw with a dull chain through Facebook marketplace.Luckily i have another chain.
Though i have been trying to sharpen the dull chain with little change.
Great video Tinman.
sooo, ya can't just put the chain on backwards and run it through the embedded barbed wire in the stump and get it back to sharp? : ) I went through all my spare chains last week, cutting huge old dead oaks away from my friends house. Any time the trees are in a line on an old farm.... good chance theres wire in the stumps. I've got plenty of filing to do next rainy day in the shop... Thank you for the video, you have a pleasant way of teaching. I remember learning how to file by watching my dad, ( the angry man with the chainsaw) when I was a kid. George.
The bottom 6 foot of a farm shelter belt probably exemplifies the 20/80 rule, as 20% of the job necessitates 80% of the sharpening.
@@rhysfirth3506 It was a tough week there. I got struck by a Copperhead snake, stung by hornets that got under the cuffs of my gloves while they were attacking the chainsaw, I got poison ivy just about everywhere and I got about a hundred redbug bites. The snake did not get its fangs in me, as it struck the front of my Pfanner chainsaw pants. I climbed and rigged and cut four oaks and one big black gum. One of the oaks had a huge broken limb that had fallen onto the ridge of the house. The limb was nearly sixteen inches in diameter at the base, fourty or so feet long. I rigged it with a bridle and was able to raise, then swing and lower it. I work by myself and it was alot of rigging and ascending and prep work. My friend can now feel safe during a storm and not worry about any of the dead tall oaks falling on her home. Floods have killed many trees on her farm. I am almost done itching from all the bites and stings. Smiling, George.
@@trimbaker1893 I'm glad we have no snakes. Nor venomous spiders other than some Australians who live in the undergrowth, not in trees.
The firewood I'm doing were the shade trees planted for a small schoolhouse and yard in the 20's and 30's. The school is long gone, and the trees are near the end of their lives. Mum wants to put a house there where the school was, and it's not safe with those trees standing. So bit by bit they are going through the fireplace.
@@rhysfirth3506 That sounds nice. Yesterday I split a truckload of the oak for a friend that needs firewood. I have to say, I was keeping an eye on the ground for the next snake...
@@trimbaker1893 when I went to Australia I actually went hunting snakes...
Never found any, plenty of spiders however. Big spiders.
You can see the trunk I'm ringing down into rounds of you click my username. I timed the cutting speed on a new out of the box Oregon chain using the timestamps in the editing software.
Nice job on sharpening video.
You file just like me. But I one hand both sides. I was tired of finding something the right height to put my tip against, and my tailgate isn't always in the shade. Bsafe bud
This is super useful. Thanks tinman
Use the little husky flat steel raker guage with hard, thicker side and the soft thinner side so you can take a little more of your drags down . I'm thinking about trying the hard side more because I have lots of hard wood. Lot of popular also. Yeah, huskys rakerp plate is fire but that 1 u have looks pretty cool
Very nice Tinman, good work 👏
I watch your video and from experienced fella doing chain saw sharpening in 70's withx12 years experience on shop chain sharpener I still can't see how you can hold still the chain for good smooth sharpen So till this day I I can't see doing it by hand too much rocking sway in bar guide of rocking for good clean pass every push of file.
You are rite we can't be perfect. That why Jesus Christ died for our sins. That we all have. God Bless Tinman good sharpening video.
Nice explanation!
Great job keep up the good work
Awesome video Tinman!
nice one Tin 👍💯
Good technique buddy thank u for sharing. Hope all is well
Good information to know. Thanks
My dad is all the time bringing me his saw with a trashed chain and it takes alot to clean it up and he is always commenting that his chains don't last long and I tell him to quit destroying his chains !
I have some neighbors like this...Honestly believe that a guy will never truly be careful about staying out the dirt, rocks,metal and dirty wood in general until he learns to sharpen his own and can appreciate the work it takes. I can hear them cutting out here in the country from miles away. I know exactly when they hit something and the sound of saw changes. Yet they just keep going until smoke is rolling off the bars!🙄 It is painful for me to listen too...
Love u sharpening skills
Thanks
It’s all about the Bur……….
Great Job
This is my problem.
10:00
Just like your right hand, I rotate the file.
10:12
As soon as I give the file to my left hand,
the rotation stops.
How long will it take to teach that hand ???
-- North Central FL
Good stuff. Very interesting seeing the results of "wrong file, too big" and how to correct it. Have you experimented with "the wrong file that's too small"? Like a 5/32 instead of the 3/16? I think Buckin did that as an experiment, could be interesting.
Hope all is good with the new "little tinman" ( or would that be Tinman Jr?) and your wife.
While the tip up vs down is very important with the correct file, its absolutely critical with the wrong file. Too big? Tip down to get under the tip of the tooth. Too small? Tip up to cut the corner instead of undercutting the tooth.
Its also helpful to start with a downward angle to develop a seat for your file on the inside (opposite the cutting corner) corner to use for stability while sharpening with a different curve than it already has. This also works great when the saw is damaged, and is essentially the boat stroke.