Hi from St. Ives (C'wall). We have "spoken before". I have just produced two code 3 Devon General Atlanteans (one a 'Sea dog' open top) which entailed removing the original paint. I know you are not a fan of paint stripper, but thought I would just mention the one I came across in "The Range" called Bartoline TX10 paint and varnish stripper. Price £5.99. There is virtually no smell to it and it is a thickish white in colour. I put some in a dish, put the top of the bus in it and within a couple of hours 99.9% of the paint had come off. I removed the remaining stripper stuck on the top with a paint brush and then washed the roof with hot water. I have so far stripped three models using the one bottle and it is still good for some more stripping. I have to say this is the BEST paint stripper I have ever used. Keep up the good work.
Hi Brian, That is very good to know and thank you for the tip. It isn't so much that I'm against stripping back to bare metal, it is more to do with hoiw much it costs using Nitromors and alike. I am very aware of the difficult economic times we live in and whilst I am fortunate, many others are not. Also I want to encourage as many younger people to get involved as possible. I will mention your suggestion though in my next shoot.
Hi, Thanks for your reply. Fully understand what you are getting at, and it is good to get younger guys into bus modelling. I used to use Nitromors but for me it never really did a 'first time' job, but I think you will be surprised when you try TX10.
Hi, thanks for viewing and taking the time to comment. i did have all my videos numbered and then got several people stating they did not like that format lol. Win some lose some I guess. However, my channel does have several 2mini-series2 videos on it so I will number those once again.
Hi! I am currently doing a tree looper bus project, I just opened the top and I stripped the paint and just primed it today, but I have one important question wanna ask, cuz what I gonna do next would be spraying white gloss on the surface, but I want to ask that how can I paint the headlights, blinkers and rear lights with red, grey and orange as I can't paint colours on it with markers after I sprayed the white gloss on as I think it will not say, so I want to know what would be the method u will be using to get the colour details out pls? Many thanks
Hi Hamburger, there are 2 ways to go with this. One way is to apply an artist masking fluid before spraying your gloss. Such fluid is available from places like The Range. It appears to be nothing but dries as a rubber substance. The gloss will cover it but after the gloss is dry you can peel off the rubber. However, it is not that cheap and only worth buying if you plan to make a lot of use of it. The other way is to spray gloss all over the model and then pick out details after it has dried with silver paint for lights, red for rear lights an orange for indicators. When applying paint in this way, on small areas of detail, cocktail sticks (Cheap to buy) are often better than brushes. They have a fine point which does not move. I hope that helps and good luck with your project.
o, ok, may I ask one last thing, would it work if I use a cotton swab to wipe out the bit needed to paint in red and orange right after I spray the white gloss?
@@hamburger7478 Absolute "Don't do it". What you will be left with is a messy area covered in fine fibre from the swab. Better to let the gloss dry and deal with what is left after that.
Hi again from St. Ives. I have a couple of questions you may be able to answer. (1) Do you know of a colour in car colour spray cans that is a close match to NBC Poppy Red. (2) I have tried making some Devon General fleet name transfers with yellow print on a clear background using an inkjet Epson printer. The colour prints fine, but there is not enough depth in the yellow, despite putting it through the printer twice. When the transfer is put on the model, the lettering does not show up on the model. I seem to have success with other colours, but the yellow has beat me. Do you have any thoughts on either question. Regards, Brian
Good morning Brian, To answer question 1 - No, however, I do have a friend who has spray paint made up for NBC red and green. I'll ask him where he gets it from. As for question 2 - yellow is always difficult. This is especially true when printing it on clear paper. I am just in the process of making my video about decals, which will probably be a 2 - parter. Hopefully it will answer some of your issues in more detail. Thanks for viewing and sticking with the channel.
One way is to soak the body in caustic soda and boiling water. However, I must stress - if you are a younger modeller seek assistance as the solution is hazardous! I would also say that this works very well earlier Dinky, Corgis etc from the 1970s and 80s. It is less effective on modern items. I hope that helps.
When I first started making models I made lots of mistakes. Enjoy this video on painting a model bus and avoid some errors, saving you time and money
Hi from St. Ives (C'wall). We have "spoken before". I have just produced two code 3 Devon General Atlanteans (one a 'Sea dog' open top) which entailed removing the original paint. I know you are not a fan of paint stripper, but thought I would just mention the one I came across in "The Range" called Bartoline TX10 paint and varnish stripper. Price £5.99. There is virtually no smell to it and it is a thickish white in colour. I put some in a dish, put the top of the bus in it and within a couple of hours 99.9% of the paint had come off. I removed the remaining stripper stuck on the top with a paint brush and then washed the roof with hot water. I have so far stripped three models using the one bottle and it is still good for some more stripping. I have to say this is the BEST paint stripper I have ever used. Keep up the good work.
Hi Brian, That is very good to know and thank you for the tip. It isn't so much that I'm against stripping back to bare metal, it is more to do with hoiw much it costs using Nitromors and alike. I am very aware of the difficult economic times we live in and whilst I am fortunate, many others are not. Also I want to encourage as many younger people to get involved as possible. I will mention your suggestion though in my next shoot.
Hi, Thanks for your reply. Fully understand what you are getting at, and it is good to get younger guys into bus modelling. I used to use Nitromors but for me it never really did a 'first time' job, but I think you will be surprised when you try TX10.
Well said!
Good video I subscribed 👍🏻😋
Welcome aboard! Many thanks for viewing
As a minor point could the videos be labeled 1/4, 2/4 3/4 etc. after the word project just to make them easier to watch the right one's in order.
Hi, thanks for viewing and taking the time to comment. i did have all my videos numbered and then got several people stating they did not like that format lol. Win some lose some I guess. However, my channel does have several 2mini-series2 videos on it so I will number those once again.
@@StBlazeyModelWorld thank you
Hi! I am currently doing a tree looper bus project, I just opened the top and I stripped the paint and just primed it today, but I have one important question wanna ask, cuz what I gonna do next would be spraying white gloss on the surface, but I want to ask that how can I paint the headlights, blinkers and rear lights with red, grey and orange as I can't paint colours on it with markers after I sprayed the white gloss on as I think it will not say, so I want to know what would be the method u will be using to get the colour details out pls?
Many thanks
Hi Hamburger, there are 2 ways to go with this.
One way is to apply an artist masking fluid before spraying your gloss. Such fluid is available from places like The Range. It appears to be nothing but dries as a rubber substance. The gloss will cover it but after the gloss is dry you can peel off the rubber. However, it is not that cheap and only worth buying if you plan to make a lot of use of it.
The other way is to spray gloss all over the model and then pick out details after it has dried with silver paint for lights, red for rear lights an orange for indicators. When applying paint in this way, on small areas of detail, cocktail sticks (Cheap to buy) are often better than brushes. They have a fine point which does not move.
I hope that helps and good luck with your project.
@@StBlazeyModelWorldthx for the great reply! but what do u mean by silver paint? would it work with marker pens or acrylic for the detailing?
@@hamburger7478 You can either use silver paint or something like a silver colour Pilot pen
o, ok, may I ask one last thing, would it work if I use a cotton swab to wipe out the bit needed to paint in red and orange right after I spray the white gloss?
@@hamburger7478 Absolute "Don't do it". What you will be left with is a messy area covered in fine fibre from the swab. Better to let the gloss dry and deal with what is left after that.
Hi again from St. Ives. I have a couple of questions you may be able to answer. (1) Do you know of a colour in car colour spray cans that is a close match to NBC Poppy Red. (2) I have tried making some Devon General fleet name transfers with yellow print on a clear background using an inkjet Epson printer. The colour prints fine, but there is not enough depth in the yellow, despite putting it through the printer twice. When the transfer is put on the model, the lettering does not show up on the model. I seem to have success with other colours, but the yellow has beat me. Do you have any thoughts on either question.
Regards, Brian
Good morning Brian, To answer question 1 - No, however, I do have a friend who has spray paint made up for NBC red and green. I'll ask him where he gets it from. As for question 2 - yellow is always difficult. This is especially true when printing it on clear paper. I am just in the process of making my video about decals, which will probably be a 2 - parter. Hopefully it will answer some of your issues in more detail. Thanks for viewing and sticking with the channel.
Are there any other ways to remove the paint
One way is to soak the body in caustic soda and boiling water. However, I must stress - if you are a younger modeller seek assistance as the solution is hazardous! I would also say that this works very well earlier Dinky, Corgis etc from the 1970s and 80s. It is less effective on modern items. I hope that helps.
@@StBlazeyModelWorldThankyou