This one caught my attention as I’d done the timing belt on my ‘11 plate Scenic with 75k on the clock. I use the same timing belt kits as well. Great quality. I thought the timing belt was just about due but I found a Gates belt had been fitted and it was over the edge of the top pulleys and was partly worn away from rubbing on the covers. The new belt sits where it was supposed to, so maybe the old one was fitted incorrectly. It was also not tensioned properly. Only issue was the engine refused to start. Left it overnight and it started first time. No Idea why but it’s run flawlessly since. Love your videos.
Thanks for sharing such a well-recorded and concise video. I don't have the lock pins but I have a lathe so I could turn them if I can find out the diameters please?
Replacing my Duster 1.5 dci belt kit. Do you remove the timing pins before tightening the crankshaft bolt? Will it damage them or the crank/block? Also I wish you had mentioned your dislike of Gates on here, I made the mistake of buying one and now I want to change it, the tensioners are rubbish.
If you have already put the engine on timing and installed the belt and setted the tension You can remove the pins since all the pulleys have keylock so even if the engine turns It doesnt matter cause It is already on timing. The engine Will turn once It starts so yes, It doesnt matter that much even It is the BEST to Torque the crackshalft pulleys without the timing pins so you wont break the engine block or pins
Hey! Thanks very much for this explanation! You made it look easy haha. I've got a question, at minute 4:57, when you are replacing the water pump, I see that the engine is lifted up without the support below. How do you do it to support the engine when the car is up? Isn't supposed to be supported on the bottom while the engine fixation is off?
You support the engine from the sump with a nice soft piece of wood between the jack pad. I always try to get the jack centred under the stronger parts of the sump, the edge closest to the crank pulley side. Don't support it centrally on the flat bottom of the sump as it can crack.
Don't forget to mastic the two water pump bolts on the left hand side of the pump. The bolt holes go through to the water jacket and it can leak if you miss this step. Trust me, I know. I have to pull the one I done today apart again tomorrow just to do this.
@@ssss-df5qz thanks for both answers! Yeah I could imagine that he is putting something below the sump, but at some point he lifts it up quite high, so I was wondering how does he still support the engine when he lifts it so high. Maybe you were already meaning that and I did not understand then. About the screw of the water pump, when you talk about to mastic, do you mean to put the Loctite 270? I have a Renault manual for the K9K and it mentions that one of the bolts requires the glue, but doesn't say anything about the mastic. Just with informative porpoise, I'm working on a Citan 111CDI (OM607=K9K)
@@cstlloj you need a jack to lift that high. You also need to unbolt the rear engine support. To get the engine mount plate out. It is a pain otherwise.
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Good job, not a bad engine when I looked after and easy to work on.
This one caught my attention as I’d done the timing belt on my ‘11 plate Scenic with 75k on the clock. I use the same timing belt kits as well. Great quality. I thought the timing belt was just about due but I found a Gates belt had been fitted and it was over the edge of the top pulleys and was partly worn away from rubbing on the covers. The new belt sits where it was supposed to, so maybe the old one was fitted incorrectly. It was also not tensioned properly. Only issue was the engine refused to start. Left it overnight and it started first time. No Idea why but it’s run flawlessly since. Love your videos.
baz great video good all fashioned dry timing belt the few tricks are great
Another fine job 👍
The early version of the K9K engines were a dream to work on. Oil filter easy to access from the top, EGR the same.
Great detailed info well done,just looking for a video on a renault kadjar 1.5 dci so i can try and tackle the job myself soon.
Same engine buddy
@@bazmeredith Great thanks for the reply pal,cheers.
Thanks for sharing such a well-recorded and concise video. I don't have the lock pins but I have a lathe so I could turn them if I can find out the diameters please?
Hello greatings from Romania.What is the cost for this job,just for hand,without the timing kit? Thanks
Awesome 🤙🤙🤙🤙
Baz where are you based ??
Is the same engine in vivaro 1-9 04
Replacing my Duster 1.5 dci belt kit. Do you remove the timing pins before tightening the crankshaft bolt? Will it damage them or the crank/block? Also I wish you had mentioned your dislike of Gates on here, I made the mistake of buying one and now I want to change it, the tensioners are rubbish.
If you have already put the engine on timing and installed the belt and setted the tension You can remove the pins since all the pulleys have keylock so even if the engine turns It doesnt matter cause It is already on timing. The engine Will turn once It starts so yes, It doesnt matter that much even It is the BEST to Torque the crackshalft pulleys without the timing pins so you wont break the engine block or pins
Hey! Thanks very much for this explanation! You made it look easy haha. I've got a question, at minute 4:57, when you are replacing the water pump, I see that the engine is lifted up without the support below. How do you do it to support the engine when the car is up? Isn't supposed to be supported on the bottom while the engine fixation is off?
You support the engine from the sump with a nice soft piece of wood between the jack pad. I always try to get the jack centred under the stronger parts of the sump, the edge closest to the crank pulley side. Don't support it centrally on the flat bottom of the sump as it can crack.
Don't forget to mastic the two water pump bolts on the left hand side of the pump. The bolt holes go through to the water jacket and it can leak if you miss this step.
Trust me, I know. I have to pull the one I done today apart again tomorrow just to do this.
@@ssss-df5qz thanks for both answers!
Yeah I could imagine that he is putting something below the sump, but at some point he lifts it up quite high, so I was wondering how does he still support the engine when he lifts it so high. Maybe you were already meaning that and I did not understand then.
About the screw of the water pump, when you talk about to mastic, do you mean to put the Loctite 270? I have a Renault manual for the K9K and it mentions that one of the bolts requires the glue, but doesn't say anything about the mastic.
Just with informative porpoise, I'm working on a Citan 111CDI (OM607=K9K)
@@cstlloj glue, mastic, loktite. Anything other than a dry bolt thread really.
@@cstlloj you need a jack to lift that high. You also need to unbolt the rear engine support. To get the engine mount plate out. It is a pain otherwise.
What is your opinion on skf timing belt kits, compared to ina?🤙
Same quality both real good
What site do u use for diagrams baz
Launch euro tab 3 buddy
Ive got this engine in our A180d and Mercedes are saying 10 years or 125k for the cam belt!
The manufacturer’s recommendation is always at an absolute maximum.
Pronounced Dacha .