500 Years of Chinese Fashion ft. Laurence Wen-Yu Li
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- čas přidán 7. 09. 2024
- In this episode, Laurence Wen-Yu Li shares her incredible knowledge about 500 years of Chinese historical fashion spanning from the 1420s until the 1920s.
If you'd like to explore more of Laurence's work, here's where you can find it:
Laurence's website: www.laurencewe...
Laurence's Instagram: / laurencewenyuli
Chinese Clothing Through the Ages video series: • Women and Clothing in ...
Reconstruction of Qing Dress: • Dressing a Late Qing W...
My links:
🕯 Support my art on Patreon - / vbirchwood
✨ Leave a donation: ko-fi.com/vbir...
🌙 Books I read, supplies I use, gear I film with (affiliate links): www.amazon.com...
🪡 Follow me on Instagram - / vasibirchwood
📖 Business inquiries - sofie@helmtalentgroup.com
Thank you so much to Laurence for sharing her incredible knowledge about Chinese historical fashion! If you'd like to see more of her amazing work, here's where you can find it:
Laurence's website: www.laurencewenyuli.com/
Laurence's Instagram: instagram.com/laurencewenyuli/
Chinese Clothing Through the Ages video series: czcams.com/video/-Qn6I9sID8o/video.htmlsi=Agswd38JlxcSXfYY
Reconstruction of Qing Dress: czcams.com/video/GY5YzuzBpTc/video.htmlsi=SfqjhEeC6eTohvau
Amazing presentation. Thank you for making this available to us!
Thank you Vasi for featuring me on this series! I really admire your dedication to showcasing dress history from different cultures!
@@laurencecrafts332 thank you so much Laurence! It was such a pleasure!
Thanks for sharing all these resources! Great video, as always!
Oh, she's avoiding saying where Han women's two-piece, shirt and skirt, come from. She is incorrectly introducing them as the traditional clothing of Han women. But, the traditional clothing of Han women is one-piece dress. She can never explain the development history of that two-piece. That's because Korean Goryeo clothing was introduced during the Yuan Dynasty and became popular until the Ming Dynasty. Mongolians and Han Chinese called the trend "Gaoli yang" or "Gaoli feng". The trend continued until the 9th Emperor Hongchi of the Ming Dynasty banned it. They are not the traditional clothes of Han women, but the traditional clothes of Korean women. If I'm wrong, someone please explain the history of that two-piece. I think this video promotes China's position in the deepening historical and cultural disputes between Korea and China. This video is propaganda for China by an unscrupulous historian and a silly CZcamsr.
Thank you so much for this and thank you V for inviting Laurence! I am Italian but lived in China for many years, so I think I must have seen some of these in person in museums. I remember being stunned by how intricate the embroidery was during the Ming dynasty. Great work!
You're so welcome! Really happy you enjoyed the video! ☺️
I adore pre-modern Chinese fashion! I especially love the late Ming dynasty looks
I am absolutely loving this series and I hope you continue to have experts from around the world speak. There is such a lack of content on historical fashion from around the world on youtube. This is an absolutely incredible video and clearly only scratches the surface of Chinese fashion history.
Thank you so much! I have so many other episodes of this series planned that will explore many other parts of the world 🥰
You are very kind and compassionate to include such diverse representations on your channel.
Thank you Jocelyn! ♥️
Always enjoy learning about fashion from different cultures, really loving the 500 years of fashion series!
Really glad you’re loving the series! Many more episodes to come ☺️
This was a fascinating discussion. The flow of her lecture is lively and informative and the illustrations compliment her dialogue. I would like to learn about the historical footwear for each dynasty as well. Thank you for featuring Ms Li!
Nice seeing the actual fashion's from the eras of the Chinese historical dramas I am addicted to. Very similar to what they wore on the show. The designers knocked out of the park with all the beautiful robes the actors and actresses wore. Ruyi's Royal Love in the Palace is wonderfully done.
Thank you, Laurence, for this stunning presentation! There's so much to learn about historical fashion outside the western stuff, it fascinates me to learn how people elsewhere related to their garments and their functions.
That was extremely concise and clear, an excellent starting point for someone just starting to take an interest in Chinese clothing. This is turning into a fantastic series of videos.
I almost didn’t watch this because I didn’t think I had any interest in Chinese fashions. I don’t mind being wrong. Thank you for posting.
This was absolutely captivating! Thank you for having Laurence on.
Thank you so much! I always get so bummed out how hard it is to find examples of non-western fashion through the years. I'll have to check out the Korean fashion episode after!
Mongol, Manchu, and Koreanic traditional dress demonstrates their ancestry. They were horse-riding semi-nomadic people, so naturally their clothing, hairstyle, musical instruments, hobbies, jewelry, and cuisine reflected their lifestyle. When ancient Chinese historians wrote 胡服騎射, they were referring to these nomadic people in the north.
Korea was an agricultural civilization
@user-qb5cz7ou9f According to Chinese chronicles written by Chinos like ya they clearly said that Ancient Korean Empire of 古朝鮮 고조선 was a militarily strong nation w/ their own tradition of 胡服驥射 meaning they wore Barbarian type clothing (specifically Schythian type of traditional costume) w/ traditional racial custom as mounted
archers.
the Chinese clothing of the early 1900s during warlord period are actually REALLY fascinating. you have Qing style clothing, but people are cutting off their "queue" haircut for modern western ones, there's also a lot of western influences as suits and frills becomes popular, some Han people are also going reactionary to wear Ming style clothing(Yuan Shi Kai was coronated as emperor in Ming style clothing), and a lot of important people that shaped 20th century China from politicians to authors were educated in Japan, so they brought over Taisho Era Japanese fashion as well, some of them are still worn today, example includes: short silk Ma Gua with trousers, ZhongShan suit(aka. military uniform cut suits, named after Sun Yat Sen, later worn by Mao) for men, Qi Pao for women, cloth shoes(mostly associated as Kung Fu shoes, but a lot of older people wears them), and of course, no good gentleman or lady can go without a a smoking piper and a Mauser broomhandle pistol.
She is so professional and articulates the complexity so well. Thanks!
This was so helpful! I also appreciate the English language resources at the end.
Wonderful video yet again! Thank you so much. I need to watch it at least 3 more times and explore the links you posted. It was wonderful!
I am utterly fascinated by period Chinese clothing. It's to beautiful for words. Of all cultural clothing Chinese is my ❤
Thank you for this video🙏 and sharing this young woman's knowledge. I envy her studies.
The clothes have similarities with Korean traditional clothes. Not saying who took what.
you know that korean's hanbok and kimono were heavily influenced by ming dynasty
韩国以前王室和贵族的衣服，全部来自中国赏赐
Korean during ming dynasty literally wrote in their history book that it was chinese clothes😂 and anyone with a pair of eyes can see....
of course modern plastic surgery Korean can't deal that their clothing was a copy... i didn't see British getting butthurt because they always copied french clothing 😂
Thanks to the 1st K-WAVE in ancient times, modern Koreans are tired. In 100 years, Chinese people will also deny the current 2nd K-WAVE. And they will say that the whole 2nd K-WAVE originally belongs to China. I've already met Chinese people who say that the origin of K-POP is Tang Dynasty music. So I apologize in advance to future Koreans.
@@user-zc1oj1fn6f 😂 yes that weapon is plastic surgery lmao! please we are talking about clothing now suddenly bring out misinterpreted event for what! Korea was and always nothing 😂 K-wave? wave of plastic surgery lmao 🤣 in 300 hundred years Korea Will go back to being insignificant as they always been
Love this, interesting how things evolved, and Ancient Chinese clothing was not as monolithic as some people imagine!
Wonderful! I'm very interested in the subject because my love for dramas. Nice to see the real thing. This video appeared randomly in my feed. One time, YT algorithm has done something good!
Very fascinating interview, thank you!☺️👍💖
The Yuan Dynasty was not the first Chinese dynasty ruled by non-Han people. There were many other earlier ones.
它是第一个
沒有，北魏前秦，只是不是大一統而已@@user-fw1rj3fs7h
@@user-we9ju9fk6l 那不是正统朝代，或者说对于当时的华夏文明，他们是外国
@@user-fw1rj3fs7h 漢化這麼深還不是正統？尤其是鮮卑人不僅通婚還認黃帝為祖
@@user-fw1rj3fs7h北魏前秦皇帝全都登泰山祭天 尊孔 他们就是正统中国王朝
Excellent presentation. Thank you!
Wow! Thank you Laurence for this awesome information, and also i just want to say ~ your English is AWESOME! I am studying Chinese right now, and i am staggered by the intense amount of characters required to read and understand Mandarin Chinese.
This was so interesting!
Glad you enjoyed the video!🙂
This series are so amazing, please continue them! ♥ If you could do any on african history (I know it's a continent, but it's so hard to find any videos on any of the countries) or any indeginous groups too (again very vague) would be amazing!
Thank you!! I definitely want to cover the fashion of many African peoples and Indigenous peoples ☺️ I’m Indigenous myself, so I really want to get together enough information to present an episode on my group (Volga Tatars).
@@VBirchwoodthat's amazing! I'd love t osee it!! ♥
I love your interviews! Thanks to you both for this amazing overview
This is amazing. I'd love to see more from the Tang and Song dynasties too :)
Really love your video so so much . I am obsessed with vintage Chinese clothes. I have a small collection of vintage (from 1960’s) cos’ older than that they are way too expensive for me.
Ching was occupier dynasty. Korean and Japanese costumes were mostly inspired by Tang dynasty fashions.
Japan yes not Korea not really. Korean traditional clothes are more similar to that of Ming Dynasty of China.
Chinese are creating and distorting history again
@@Dhk58dont you have a plastic surgery appointment cube head jung un?
This was super interesting! I've always been fascinated by the fabrics used in Chinese clothing
This is such a delightful talk. 🥰
So informative.Thank you so much for sharing all of your knowledge . I inherited a few dollars from my mother-in-law.Several years ago.Dressed in some of the outfits similar to what you've shown now.I know what they are❤
ive been wanting a good video on chinese fashion through history for ages!
Love the rice paddy jacket! Thanks for the presentation. Well done and very interesting.
It was one of my favourite garments presented as well, so beautiful!
I really like the 19th century women's robes. They look warm, comfortable and elegant. I'd totally wear that!
I love this, i wonder if they have patterns anywhere people can buy to make clothes loke this especially the manchu styles.
I really enjoyed this !
Thank you so much for this great lecture!
I love to watch Chinese fashion history and often check some beautiful videos on bilibili, weibo, Twitter, and ofc on youtube. What slightly bothered me was that they tended to omit the influence of the Yuan Dynasty on the Ming Dynasty. You made this very clear with visual materials.
The clothing on the female during early 1900 looks similar what my great grandmother wore in my memory. She had bound feet, I’ve seen my grandmother assisting my great grandmother to clean her feet and trimming her nails. I really should visit the museum here in Singapore. This is so interesting.
Thank you! Lovely presentation.
@3:49 is known as 高麗樣, Goryeo style clothes whereas Goryeo is direct ancestor state of Current Korea.
NO! if you read Korean history from that time, the Korean said it was chinese clothes😂 but modern Korean try to 'plastic surgery' their history too bad, your ancestors already admitted it
@@Satu-zs7gm Please look up 'Susan-ri Rock Paintings', tomb painting featuring the Go-guryeo (37 BC- 668AD) woman's clothing that already had pleated skirt with wrapping upper wear that is tied around the waist. Historical records of Yuan (Mongolian dyansty) and subsequent Ming mentioned Goryeo style clothes being popular in their courts. Goryeo(918-1392) is the continuation of Go-guryeo which had already changed its offical name to Goryeo under King Jangsu (394-491). All the previous Chinese dynasties did not feature this type of clothing while Goguryeo uniquely maintained it (Two pieces, consisted of upper wear that has wrapping closure and lower pleated skirt. Under wear is trousers)
I wouldn't dare say Go-guryeo/Goryeo which precedes Ming(1368-1644) by almost a century copied Ming style clothing. That's absurd.
@@seseh7068 say that to your korean ancestor then they said it's chinese ming clothing😂😜😜, look at "gorguyuk painting" none look like ming clothing, you trying to plastic surgery history, now that's absurd😂 Korean are as desperate as Black in changing history lmao...
@@Satu-zs7gm Also look up Baekje (18 BC- 660) clothing then it would be more evident. Goguryeo and Baekje were brother states which later unified with Silla.
Thank you so much for your information and history lesson!
This was so much appreciated!
Fascinating! I really really like this. :)
From a China Studies dropout, this made my day ❤❤❤
Great presentation. Everything is so pretty, specially the color combinations.
I thoroughly enjoyed this video. Thank you both for sharing your knowledge and interest. ✌🏽✌🏽🥰🥰✌🏽✌🏽
it would have been interesting to hear about the stitches and seams used for mundane vs. court clothing
This was amazing! Thank you.
Wonderful video, love this long form content into non western fashion!
fantastic presentation !
为什么所有的汉服服饰相关视频下面都有逆天韩国人😅
In Hong Kong, Qing-style clothing or clothing with strong elements of Qing-style lingered on. Those Qing-style clothing appeared in Lunar New Year Festivals, weddings, kungfu performances, funeral undertakers, Cantonese Opera singing (when not wearing the full costume) etc. The recent "hanfu" trend from China tries to abandon these Qing-style clothing. So they are less seen in New Year wearing now in Hong Kong.
This is so helpful for my historical fantasy world that I'm writing. One of the stories is based off Chinese/East Asian culture which is set in one of the five continents, that consists of multiple empires and other cultures with different languages and gods/mythical creatures.
for some reason Qing dynasty clothing is underrated yet they are so beautiful
Fascinating! Thank you!
Song to Tang and even earlier would be even better and those periods' clothing seems to have a similar feel to our modern clothing compared to the Ming.
damn that was actually fun and she was great at explaining!
Thank you but i be interested if you do video 500 years African North ,East, South, and West African thank you.
🍑 loved this! I hope one day another drops into my lap
This was great!
Thanks!
I think Dr. Lawrence is wearing a Hanfu vest while presenting.
The vests on official clothes indicate their ranks and official capacity or duty.
Amazing video! And congratulations on 100k SUBS!!!!
This is what I waiting for🎉🎉🎉🎉
This is really interesting i wish i wish could Ware that .
While Hanfu is more widespread these days, it's not at all accurate to say that no one wears Qing fashion. Many people reconstruct and wear Qizhuang as well as Hannuzhuang (aka Han women dress during Qing dynasty).
This is another fascinating episode! I do miss your typical speaking amount. Maybe there’s a way to merge your guests with your own input?
thank you for the feedback! I’ll try and speak a bit more in future episodes ☺️
Thankyou🎉
Beautiful ❤️
I miss seeing Victorian videos from you! Perhaps a Victorian look book would be so nice!
there is soooo much Victorian content out there already. The world of historical fashion is massive and I’m really enjoying exploring and honouring other eras and cultures ☺️
Clothings or treasures frommthe impetial families were often looted, not bought by western amrmies.
Most are in western museums and sold at Christie's.
SLAY TYSM
36:00 Which picture is not "who is a prostitute and who is a student"?
啊啊臺灣博士女人！加油❤
Really😮
Cool 😀
Did you researched on the fashion of the Austronesian people 500 years ago, since you are from Taiwan,you must have come across their history.
she gave you a timeline idk why you insisted on using western timelines
I'm curious about clothing from more matriarchal societies. Do we have any knowledge of that, or have men erased this/was this knowledge lost?
Name one matriarchal society lol
@@SlimJim3082 Minangkabau, Mosuo, Haudenosaunee, but some of these are considered more matrilineal.
@@Me-hm6fv I said matriarchal not matrilineal.
Wow
What at the common folks?
况朝鲜, 昔周武封箕子之地, 居中国之东, 世笃忠贞, 悦贡王家, 衣冠书籍, 实同华夏之制, 此礼义之鄕也。--《朝鲜王朝实录》
我国衣服、纱帽、梁冠, 旣用华制, 则耳掩亦用夏, 一变爲当。《朝鲜王朝实录》
Don't lie with fake data. Because "the Annals of the Joseon Dynasty" are extensive, people must say the name of the relevant king. But your source doesn't have that.
Moreover, title, loyalty, and tribute were manners and justice stemming from religious relationship with the emperor, the son of God, not China. It does not represent the cultural and political superiority of the two countries.
PS. Before the Han Dynasty, Gija was only recorded as a general or royal who went into hiding after the fall of the Shang Dynasty. But the Han Dynasty additionally recorded that he was appointed king of Gojoseon by the King of the Zhou Dynasty. Since then, various versions have emerged from various records. Korean Confucian scholars believed China's falsified records.
However, in modern times where archeology has developed, Gija Joseon has been denied. There is absolutely no archaeological evidence for Gija Joseon, but rather, it is contrary to existing archaeological evidence. If there was Gija Joseon, relics similar to the Chinese style should have been discovered, but the relics from that time are still similar to the Siberian style.
Therefore, it is assumed that the expansionist Han Dynasty fabricated history to secure the legitimacy of its rule over Gojoseon.
@@user-zc1oj1fn6f haha If the resource is against you, you say it doesn't exist. funny
@@user-zc1oj1fn6f Your resource doesn't exist.
Iphone is passe liao.
4:27 😂 Yuan-Mongols used to like to wear Korean stylish clothes doesn’t mean it’s Chinese clothes. Yuan is Mongol Empire not china bro 😂😅😂😅😂😅😂😅😂 If you can, show evidence that the Chinese owned this style of clothing before 1270
Are you sure? Gaoli ppl actively managed to wear Mongolian clothes for entertaining and satisfying Mongolian. Mongolian were shocked about it😂 This style had existed before follower and copycat Gaoli😂
@@SpikeOuu of course they can wear it. But they’re not tagging by korea so it’s OKAY for us 😊
@@Namu89-q3d Ok, according to the historical artifacts and records, Gaoli ppl wore Mongolian clothes and had Mongolian hairstyles😊
@@SpikeOuu that’s great thanks 😊
That Chinese person is insulting Koreans and Korea with false information. You already know he's a liar. But why do you agree?
《朝鲜王朝实录 宣祖实录》第37卷讲清楚了当时的朝鲜、日本与中国的关系：
“设使以外国言之，中国父母也。我国与日本同是外国也，如子也。以言其父母之于子，则我国孝子也，日本贼子也。父母之于子，虽止于慈，岂有爱其贼子同于孝子之理乎？”
That was just a flattering remark to get help from the Ming Dynasty during the Japanese invasions of Korea. Even in desperate situation, he spoke in the subjunctive mood. Lol
By the way, what does that have to do with the Ming Dynasty copying Korean Hanbok?
@@user-zc1oj1fn6f 日者陪臣来朝，屡以冕服为请，事下有司，稽诸古制，以为：‘四夷之国，虽大曰子，且朝鲜本郡王爵，宜赐以五章或七章服。朕惟《春秋》之义，远人能自进于中国则中国之...兹特命赐以亲王九章之服，遣使者往谕朕意，呜呼！朕之于王，显宠表饰，无异吾骨肉，所以示亲爱也。
@@user-zc1oj1fn6f 朝鲜的诗人徐居正，也说自己国家的服装就是从中国服饰中来的。
朝鲜“为中国之番邦，故历代亲信于中国，受封爵，朝贡不绝，礼仪之道不缺，衣冠制度，悉同于中国各代之制，故曰：‘诗书礼仪之邦，仁义之国也。
@@zjoker2416 No, you are magnifying. They only explained "the official uniform system" among the religious systems according to the ideology of the Son of Heaven. Official uniforms were worn only in the palace by "a very small number of officials, King and crown prince."
The Manchus had no nomadic civilization and lived in tents and wore traditional fluffy fur clothing.满族没有游牧文明，住在帐篷里，穿着传统的蓬松的毛皮服装。
Oh, she's avoiding saying where Han women's two-piece, shirt and skirt, come from. She is incorrectly introducing them as the traditional clothing of Han women. But, the traditional clothing of Han women is one-piece dress. She can never explain the development history of that two-piece. That's because Korean Goryeo clothing was introduced during the Yuan Dynasty and became popular until the Ming Dynasty. Mongolians and Han Chinese called the trend "Gaoli yang" or "Gaoli feng". The trend continued until the 9th Emperor Hongchi of the Ming Dynasty banned it. They are not the traditional clothes of Han women, but the traditional clothes of Korean women. If I'm wrong, someone please explain the history of that two-piece. I think this video promotes China's position in the deepening historical and cultural disputes between Korea and China. This video is propaganda for China by an unscrupulous historian and a silly CZcamsr.
Chinese people trying to steal someone else's culture
Please learn Chinese characters and read your history book again 😅I need correct you that two-piece dressed don’t first appear in the Ming and “who said to you that the the Han traditional clothes is one piece? Do you think the clothing of the Han ethnic group is as simple as yours? The Chinese character of clothes is named 衣裳，衣meaning tops ,裳meaning dress. What you call a one-piece style is also wearing skirts or pants inside Besides what is the gaoli yang ？goli clothes is still learn from the tang dynasty and please understand what the Ming banned is the ponytail skirt that is just a skirt support from Joseon Dynasty that just popular in the capital city not the golifeng.
The women dress in this video of the Ming is from the song dynasty. Can you stop stealing？ Can you further study your so-called Goryeo style？Do you start making up history books because you can't understand Chinese characters ? You can go and see how Japan records it
By the way, could you please check where your royal and even noble clothing used to come from?😊
@@user-fw1rj3fs7h 1. Han women's two-piece first appeared only during the period from the Yuan Dynasty to the Ming Dynasty.
2. Yeah, the basic clothing of the Han Chinese was simple one-piece.
3. Pants first appeared during the Han Dynasty, which fought many wars with the northern peoples. Han men imitated the clothes of northern peoples and wore them in order to ride horses. The clothes were called "Hufu" and were distinguished from the clothes of the Han Chinese. In other words, it was not Han Chinese clothing.
4. Wearing a skirt or a pant underneath does not make it a two-piece. There were no separate tops corresponding to it. They were just underwear.
5. Skirts didn't even exist before the Tang Dynasty. There were just types of belts that only covered part of the body. Like an apron.
6. Skirts first appeared in the Tang Dynasty. However, a skirt was worn over a long gown or only a skirt was worn. In the first case, it was just a double one-piece dress. There was still no distinction between top and bottom.
7. During the North and South Kingdoms in Korea, Silla wore skirts over tops due to the influence of the Tang Dynasty. But it was just a different way of wearing it. Unlike the Tang Dynasty, it was still a traditional Korean two-piece.
8. In the Goryeo Dynasty, the influence of the Tang Dynasty disappeared and tops were worn over skirts again. This Goryeo clothing was introduced into the Yuan Dynasty.
9. What the Hongchi Emperor banned was not only Joseon's ponytail petticoat, but also Gaoli yang or Gaoli feng itself.
10. Gaoli yang or Gaoli feng, started in the palace and spread not only to the capital and its surrounding areas, but also to the provinces and became very popular. That's because the trend lasted for a very long time.
11. The clothing of Han women in the Song Dynasty was still similar to that of the Tang Dynasty.
12. Chinese characters originated from the Dongyi people of northern origin who lived in the Shandong Peninsula and nearby areas, not the Huaxia people.
13. The Chinese characters “衣” and “裳” first appeared during the Zhou Dynasty and refer to all types of clothing. However, because there have always been different ethnic groups with different clothes, sometimes it also had separate meanings as top or bottom. Those Chinese characters do not prove Han Chinese' two-piece.
14. In fact, "衣" means just clothing in various Chinese words that refer to sportswear, swimsuit, raincoat, etc.
15. Only some official uniforms for Goryeo and Joseon men followed the Chinese official uniform style. China had imposed on its neighbors a pseudo-religion that the emperor was the son of God. China believed that all the world under heaven belonged to the emperor, the son of God, and that their neighbors merely ruled on the emperor's behalf. So the emperor had his neighbors wear their official uniforms in the Chinese style.
16. I don’t care if you frame me and insult me. But don't slander and insult Korea and Koreans. In particular, it is very rude to call Gaoli, the Chinese pronunciation of Goryeo, goli. It's not good for you if you seem irrational. Refrain from expressing personal emotions.
中亚式的裙子还要跟人家抢，还懂的羞耻吗？
哪个是中亚式的裙子？马面裙源于宋代的旋裙啊大姐
@@user-fw1rj3fs7h 宋朝旋群来自丝绸之路的可能性比较大，绝对不能排除来自中亚的可能性。
@@restoftheworld7200 我笑了，宋朝的旋裙是女子为了骑驴方便，最早是妓女穿的，懂了吗？
@@restoftheworld7200可能性😂那你要拿出实证啊
@@cyy6749 这款裙子在中亚两千年前就有。