REVISIT- PS3 No Power WiFi/Bluetooth Module Fault
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- čas přidán 20. 12. 2019
- Hi, this revisit video shows me attempting to replace the Wi-Fi / Bluetooth module in a PS3 Slim that was causing no power to the console.
Sorry, there is no quick version of this video.
Remember that this is just for entertainment and I am not an expert in these repairs. The processes in the video may not be the best way, the correct way or the safest way to fix these things.
I do love fault finding and trying to fix broken things so I hope that comes across in this 'Trying to FIX' series.
Many thanks, Vince. - Jak na to + styl
I'd love to see a re-revisit. Sidenote: I really enjoy watching your videos precisely because you show us even when things go wrong. To me, that is far more informative than just watching an expert go through a repair quickly. Watching your troubleshooting process and the many insightful comments is really worthwhile.
It's nice to see the whole fault finding journey, looking forward to see where this goes if anywhere in the end, the perseverance is great
I love that Vince shows us videos even when it doesn't work out. You can watch other tech repair people who seem to nail it every time, but I bet they just don't show us when it goes wrong!
Nice one for trying anyway, love your channel.
Awesome troubleshooting! This is how it's done, as frustrating as it can be. But when you finally DO find the actual cause, it's a HUGE sense of satisfaction! PLUS the rest of us get to learn from YOUR learning experience!!! Keep at it!
Vince fix or no fix its a pleasure to watch you trying to fix it you are much better at this than you give yourself credit for you are much too hard on yourself as stated its just great to see how hard you try to do this I just love watching your videos and how hard you work and yoor logical way you fix things
I really wish I could emulate your skills but alas I tend to break things more than fix
Please keep up the good work as I said fix or no fix its just wonderful how hard you try
Watching Vince grow from early on till now has been fun. You can see what he has learned just from tearing things apart and trying to fix them. It has been 30 years since I did any thing with it but I trained in electronics while in the service and taught DC theory when I went back to the school that trained me as an instructor. Because I enjoy electronics I actually enjoy listening to him think through things though.
@@chrishammond1230 I started out as a ground rat, ground radio technician, when I enlisted. It's great how the service gives you a skill set, that if you continue to hone can translate well to other things like what Vince is doing.
Definition of "tenacity" = My Mate Vince!
Hey Vince, I hope you and your family have a fantastic Christmas and a Happy New Year. Can I just say, I love you videos and have been subscribed from the start. I just wanted to say, that I think the shorter videos aren't really needed. People can skip through if they really want. But I think I speak for a lot of us when I say this, but we would prefer more content instead of shortened videos. Upvote if you agree!
That little portable cheap osciloscope would be helpful to monitor the 1.8V power rail when you plug it in. maybe it is spiking above 1.8V on startup and blowing the chip.
That "coil" on top of the chip is probably the culprit since it is an inductor it limits the in rush current.
Agreed use an oscilloscope. The DMM may not gate fast enough to catch the spike in voltage.
@@mypersonalbiblestudies hes right you know. Multimeter aren't fast enough to see the spike
Shawn Johnson
Right, my exact thought. It has an inherent delay between each readings, the chance of catching a super-brief spike is extraordinarily slim.
That’s why an oscilloscope is useful, as it measures *_almost_* in real time and plots it onto a graph. There are cheap modules on eBay and other similar places, and is an essential tool when it comes to detecting these voltage spikes.
@How Not To true as well
@How Not To that's amazing! Happy for you. With what you've shared, do you mind stating what exactly has occured and needs repair? I've been in the electronics field for a little over 17 years. Mostly radio frequency type stuff for the U.S. military. Vince is an inspiration because I enjoy seeing how he takes a logical approach to things and the way he learns. Very different from my approach being in an electronics field. I don't often do this, cause I feel like it's a bit sleezy on another person's profile. But I do have a very small repair channel myself. czcams.com/channels/pSQw8XAYsVqcly-iOK2bBg.html
Hi Vince, hope you and your family are having a good christmas holiday!
Was waiting for this loved the other video
The AMS1117 chip datasheet you got there is the ADJ variant, it probably has several different variations with different output voltages, from 5 to 1.8V. The ADJ stands for adjustable. At 37:10 you can see below the diagram for typical application an equation to calculate the output voltage (Vout).
You would change the values of R1 and R2 to get the correct output voltage.
The AMS1117-1.8 was shown just underneath the -adj version of the typical application sheet he was looking at.
@@incandescentwithrage Yes, but it was taking a 4.75V as input, not 3.3V (see at 36:07).
@@Freeak6 That's a typical application diagram.
It can take up to max 18v input and as it's a low dropout regulator, feeding it 3.3v would be ok also.
Thought you had cracked it! Still entertaining. Wishing you and your family a very Happy Christmas!
Keep up the great vids mate I’m always going to be a fan
Hi.
You need AMS1117-1.8 not AMS1117-adj.
For AMS1117-adj the output voltage is regulated by resistors R1 and R2.
I hope you right I bought AMS1117-1.8V version.
@@criticscooby abslotly right adj version is (adjustable you can put risistor or potansiom meter
but stable version (mark on ic example ""1117 5--------1117 3.3------1117 1.8----------1117 1.2
i most time used this chip for many step down application
soory for my EN
Looking forward to the re-revisit :)
The method of connecting with cables is not a bad idea... I tried it myself once, except that the patient was ps4 slim, and I did it together with a colleague working on slightly longer cables, which resulted in problems installing the software. Your soldering performance was also not the best in my opinion and despite the use of kapton tape, after folding the console, the module's protective plate could bend and cause the module's passive elements to short-circuit. What about this? i.imgur.com/oV1Ih5A.png
I suggest you solder the new module with hot air anyway. By doing this according to some simple rules:
1) clean the pcb and all pads
2) put flux on the pcb
3) reball module with lead balls of size e.g. 0.7 for your own convenience (may be smaller)
4) the whole module dissipates heat perfectly thanks to its screen, the Marvell system also due to the fact that it has a mass pad. So the temperature is not terrible for him.
The voltages are correct.
edit: I suggest replacing the regulator with another one, the same or the aforementioned ams1117, since the original module has been damaged ... prophylactically.
Best regards, faucolt
@Vince this mate. Replace it with an AMS1117 then a new wifi/bt board. Your DMM is a great tool. However most DMMs do not gate quick enough to catch voltage spikes like an oscilloscope would/could. I am also wondering myself (even though the voltage at measure is 1.8vDC) if the amperage is to great coming from the voltage regulator. Maybe that is blowing the Marvell chipset on the wifi/bt board.
@@mypersonalbiblestudies I agree the amperage is to high and @faucolt I will 2nd your findings!!!
Thanks faucolt and Shawn, James. I was sure all the wires were in place, but now looking at that screenshot it does look like I missed out that one!!!!!!!!!! If I go with a new AMS1117 1.8V version I am confused as it only has 3 legs and a big ground. The little 1.8V PS3 regulator has 6 legs and a ground. I presume the voltage out goes to the SMD coil and the voltage in is the bottom left pin but what about the bottom middle and right pad on the PS3 board and the top left pad???? Do I have to jumper wires across to the pads. Any ideas. Thanks for all the help :-)
@@Mymatevince Ok on the 1117 the other two legs that are left over according to the datasheet is ground or resistance of adjustment and ground, but there is also in dip8 format so you don't have to do more modification than check the input and output pins
Now about why the module burned
what I can think of is that you have fluctuations in the order of milliseconds, which cannot be captured by a common or more professional multimeter, since the sensitivity of this is lower, at an oscilloscope or an analog multimeter, which you could also check with an analog multimeter, although it is not as accurate if it is more sensitive to variations or rapid rises, thanks to the movement of the needle
For my part I would recommend changing the 2 regulators to avoid problems, so you make sure that you leave 5v to 3.7v or whatever you have to leave the first regulator and exit the second 1.8v
@@Mymatevince hi 1.8v regulator is this package AMS1117CS-1.8 that @lutwin Barahona acosta talking is about as dip8 format and here is the spec. sheet www.advanced-monolithic.com/pdf/ds1117.pdf. if I'm not mistaking!
Hi Vince, been watching your videos for a while now. Now to your multimeter, if people still are writing about it being annoying, you can fix that if you don't mind opening up the multimeter, just need to put a little bluetac on the speaker, it will quiet it down alot. I used to do this on my battery chargers because I would trickle charge through the night and the speaker would be super loud. 👌 Hope you continue your awesome work, I'm currently in the middle of gathering some supply's to fix broken stuff. Your an inspection
Hi Vince, i've been repairing PS3 slim/super slim with faulty Wifi/BT module. Since the module supply reads 1.8v, I suspect the module you replaced was also faulty. A good module will have around 9 Kohms resistance between +1.8v rail to ground pads. Its is a good habit to make sure the supply voltage(+1.8v in your case) is ok before you replace the module.
Happy Holidays/Merry Xmas Vince
Yay..
Finally worked out what chip was faulty nice one Vince.. APU I dropped a like..
Please re-re visit it vince-it would be great to see this working again after all the blood sweat and tears and would be a worthwhile exercise if you ever get another faulty PlayStation slim
Its a very interesting way of doing it. But to be honest, its quite a waste of time, as this takes 5 mins by heating the board from underneath even without a pre-heater. As you know, these boards have a great heat transfer ability. I just use my heat gun, and not my hot air reflow station, I was hesitant at first as using a heatgun seemed a bit excessive but it is a very quick and easy job. But thank you Vince, your videos are ALWAYS entertaining. You have also helped me from time to time with fault finding of my own. I do appreciate your tenacious determination in all the 'trying to repair' challenges you set yourself. Shame that you couldnt get it working this time, but you will get it! :)
Vince, in the spreadsheet for the AMS117 there was a 1.8 right below where you were reading. Isn't that the 1.8v specs?
hi your video inspired me to fix our ps3 again. i replaced the wifi and it failed instantly like your video then i replaced the power supply for the wifi module and it works now but the controller wont turn on the console but it will connect once it is on
In general terms. If replacement parts keep blowing there's a fault on the main board knocking components out. It's ok fault finding the blown replacement but there's an underlying issue with the main. Keep up the work. I enjoy your videos though sometimes my head hurts from head slapping 😁
I think this has already been mentioned before, but Aliexpress has well-priced replacement parts (including the PS3 wifi board).
Keep going Vince, don't give up!
This is an excellent series. I'd love to see where it goes. Was there a later revisit? I can't seem to find one.
Hey Vince, I remember from your previous videos you have a perfect working PS3 Slim, maybe you can try to take some readings from that one? I know its a different model, but they might have used the same wifi module?
Did you check the purchased second hand wifi module before connecting it? It could have been shorted right out of the bag.
Makes sense that the wifi uses 1.8V. Last video I did commented about that winbond memory chip that it uses 1.8V and I did not see any voltage regulator inside the Wifi module, so If the main chip uses 3.3V there must have at least two different voltages going into the module board. Or it can use all 1.8, however since WiFi uses a lot of power it makes sense to have so many ground and power pins since it would have to draw a lot of current on the 1.8V rail to feed the power.
Could have blown the chip by using diode / continuity mode on the meter ?
Vince, I'd like to know where can I learn these basic concepts like identifying short-circuits, how to test if its grounded or not, what substance do you use to remove chips and capacitors with the heat blower.
Always good to remember that 5V, 3.3V and 1.8V are common standard chip voltages.
Let me start with I have no clue when it comes to working on mother boards! Would it be a good idea to determine all ground balls on the wifi chip and verify that none of the matching balls on the MB are backfeeding voltage? Also the remaining balls on the MB, that are not determined to be grounds on the wifi chip, could they be checked for a direct short to ground. Just something I would probably check if I found myself in this situation.
Got two ps3's same model with same problem, did replace module on first one didnt help, now that I have the second one will be great to go with the end with try to fix this problem with replacing components regulator and wifi module, waiting for revisit, and thanx for great video
I really enjoy you videos
It's a switching regulator, your meter is not quick enough to measure any problems. You are also measuring it under no load, if the drive transistor stays on under load then it will feed 3.3V.
No, it isn't.
hello there!!! may i use the 1.8v regulator from ps3 SUPER SLIM to ps3 SLIM? and same question about wifi/bt module. thanks
I'd also measure all the other connection points for the wifi/bt module. A broken bus line, for example, could just aswell be frying the chip. If you want to test the 1.8V regulator under load you could use a resistor as dummy load.
I guess solder paste would help you a lot getting module back to mobo, when you finish fixing this issue.
I am having the same issue, had tried many things at a non soddering level but i would like to know if there's a concrete solution before i go that route. That said, i been wondering if its possible to do a fresh install of the OS on another hdd to bypass the wifi card error encountered in part 1. If thats possible i might remove the wifi card & do ethernet with 2 long usb cables for the controllers as this will be for my 2 nieces. Any thoughts?
Good morning ... would you have this scheme for the super slim?
So if i removed this Chip i can complete the update ? Help please
Mine WiFi module has shorted pads but also the regulator output doesn't provide 1.8volt
Input are ok 3.3 and 5....
Is there a correct fix?
Hi Vince, I'm trying to replace this 1.8v resistor in my PS3 slim. Have you seen any tutorials anywhere? The replacement regulator I got is bigger than the one on the board...
hi would use soming as a load to test the power reg if the load where's out change the reg chip playing around with a high cost chip is silly
i work on alot of reel to reel deck's some time you have to make mod's to some parts like you do
I agree that such a fix is not economically viable, but it definitely is worth the content. I hope there's a follow up later, I just can't seem to find it if there is...
good evening is it possible to cable the wifi card from the ps3 3XX to the ps3 4XX?
You might want to inspect that 1.8V line over time at startup with a scope.
I wonder if one of those pads on the module came loose and caused the short.
How about seeing if someone here can send you a donor module? Also what about using longer wires and then hanging the wifi/BT module outside of the casing rather than trying to jam it in? Keep it up Vince! We all want to see this PS3 working now!!
Hi Dave and Vince. As good as that idea is I do worry that rather than an equal placement of the boards marrying up with just solder balls, he will then have long wires with different bends and lengths in each (even if he tried to make them all the same) it’s still enough to sabotage a chip like that.
It won’t process information correctly due to receiving data at incorrect intervals.
I also did wonder if it were a pad.... to blow the exact same way though? Less likely I think, I’m going to have a think on this and see if anything sparks an idea. Great watching him solve it though.
I used to lay (solder the chips on) PCB’s as an early job and after they were always power tested with probes before actually being paired to a PSU.
Reason I say it is this....
3 chips on these silly little boards, a micro coil and capacitor sat a third of the way down in the middle between chips 1&2 these were so close I had a few boards slide back to my bench for a short there and they always said IF it was powered up it would have cost that all expensive chip.
After 6 months here I remember a big batch of warranty returns coming in.
Screens on there new tills started failing, (boards for electronic point of sale systems) the heat generated by the poor location of these components meant that something was happening to the layers between them and therefore on start-up was somehow jumping or spiking to double what the voltage should have been but only for a split second and I have to agree with the comment I saw above this regarding to the multimeter being too slow to respond.
I’ll ponder some more and see but I can’t wait for the next video 🤞 you solve it
I agree with what most people are saying is to use an oscilloscope first before connecting a new chip to the ps3. as a volt meter while good, is not as quick to catch a voltage spike of say less than 10th of a second for example. which most spikes happen within milliseconds, and gone just as quick. sort of like slowly putting a plug into a wall socket while the wall socket is switched on creates a spark. using a switch will create a spark that can also be passed through electical circuitry before resistors etc have a chance to regulate power properly. hense having to change 3 hard drives on my friends laptop within a week of each-other, is because she was plugging the power supply into the laptop, and then the mains plug into a live socket. which then allowed the full shock to pass straight to the hard drive, as the laptop was switched on at the time. or at least my understanding of it, and logic behind what was happening, as I have hardly replaced a hard drive apart from upgrading. and she has not phoned me up since for a failed hard drive.
So, I accidentally Updated the ps3 slim system using the ethernet knowing that the wifi/ Bluetooth in the console is not working. So now, the ps3 is stuck looping the update at 47% because i am assuming that the wifi/ bluetooth hardware is damage. I manage to replace the antennas, the old antennas are filled with dust and kinda burnt. I replaced with new antennas. I put everything back in and when i turn on the console and goes installing the update, it does the same thing like before... Stuck at 47%. Is it possible that the chips are also damage?
AMS1117 series are clones of LM1117. Very cheap clones, maybe not very good clones, often fail by shorting input to output - not even so much due to over-current or heat, just whenever. Maybe MIC5209 or so.
These all work exactly the same as classic 78xx regulators and the like. There are several versions preprogrammed to specific voltage, or you use the voltage divider to adjustment terminal. The difference between different versions is the target offset between adjustment pin and the output pin, for ADJ version it's 1.25V i think, for 1.8V version it's 1.8V, for 3.3V it's 3.3V etc. So in a way adjustable version can replace any other version with extra resistors, and fixed versions are actually adjustable too, just with limitations.
Dropped a like Vince, But mo Importantly, I would like to wish Yo N yo Family Merry X-Mas.. Err-N-Happy Holidays..
This problem just happened to me.
Would be keen on a rere-visit
Hi there Vince, greetings again from Greece Peloponnese Aigio Town... That's a tough one again, well the thing is that it was looking like that WiFi Bluetooth multichip microboard was the issue but it's not that because it's just the result , the source of the actual fault its something around there because you tried almost everything and nothing is working with the same results... Well that's electronics , sometimes they are tough and that is now though, maybe its before the whole lines of that board on the motherboard on the back the traces , maybe its something before all these further down that is connected with the lines of that WiFi Bluetooth board lines
When it comes to the motherboard heating device, don’t you think you could try a DIY-project for that? It doesn’t need to be anything fancy, just a heating plate and a high-value thermometer (capable of reading up to 250-300 degrees Celsius, which is well above the melting point for even leadfree solder).
Perhaps heat diffusion is also necessary, not sure...
Maybe it’s too dangerous to DIY? Not sure, which is why my suggestion is open for (preferrably constructive) criticism.
Sorry, Vince. I don't at the moment have these repair skills as you or everyone else does. I am sorry that you couldn't get at this point in time to get this PS3 to work. I would love to visit your revisit video if you did. Have a great day.
The reason you can't find data on the WiFi chip is because Marvell made it special for Sony. The SCEI on the chip stands for Sony Company Entertainment Industries. The won't be publishing data sheets for a component they make custom for one customer. Having said that, there is a fair chance that if you look for a marvell chip that has the same specs (version of BT, Wifi bands and number of channels and max speed) and the same form factor (pins, size) the pinout will be identical. If you can't find an exact match, look for something that at least has the same form factor and combined wifi/BT features.
got the same problem, no power with new BT/WiFI , please revisit this aggain..
i love your videos
I guess I should say card and not chip. I was curious if anything after the card could be causing a problem.
I think there are 2 power supply for the module one for 1.8v for BT and the other one should be for the WIFI even though it one chip, ams1117 you can buy in different output voltages or adjustable, I would plug in the PSU with the 12v and tests every pad for voltage
Any change you Will do the avg mod on the game gear mcwill 😅
I think it shorted when it was squished...
You should try and get cfw on the PS3 and use it with a wired controller. I had this same issue years ago and gave up on trying to do just that.
Wdyt means what do you think
Why dont you try
@@bobr9207 i hate these sortsw of thing lol used to mean lots of love XD
if you have an armature oscilloscope measures the voltage between the coil and the capacitor (positive side of the ceramic capacitor the output of the switching regulator), if the voltage spike jumps more than 1.8 -2v, replace the regulator
It's not unheard of for companies that ship a lot of units of their systems will order chips for them with their own part number marked on it instead of the chip manufacturer's part number. I've only heard of HP doing it but wouldn't be surprised if playstation did as well
that was very fast turnaround nice!
that was at most week ago.
Hmm so you've effectively made a socket. Would it not be easier to make an actual socket? i mean if there is something that would fit this pin layout.
Problem with that is that it would be too big to get the grounding/heat-sink cover back on to get the system back together. The idea with soldering direct is to make the system as compact as possible. It's an idea that I've toyed with as well, but it just doesn't seem like a viable solution if you want to get the system reassembled. Now, if one were to make a custom cover and casing ....
@@sh06un1s
my apologies i am not thinking practical,
i just thought it'd be slimmer to have socket rather than nest of cables.
Incorrectly as you've explained.
The voltage regulator is not fixed. This means you can configure it. The voltage divider between Vout and ADJ and GND defines what output voltage should be on Vout.
Please check bga pad on the main board if there any shorted, If bga pad on the main board is not shorted. Perhaps ESD might has kill the wifi chip. Please check your soldering iron if there is continuity to main earth, a good ESD safe soldering iron must have continuity between the tip of the iron to the main earth. It appears that sony wifi module don't have regulator built-in, this will directly expose wifi chip to ESD hazard.
Just a quick note, you can bypass the bt-wifi check with a CFW that has had the check disabled, these are called 'CFW noBT' firmwares. Sadly you have what looks like a CECH-3XXX series, which is not CFW compatible. The last series to be CFW compatible funnily enough was your good working console, CECH-25XX series. The only way to load the CFW on with a BT check disable is using a hardware flasher as HEN/HFW does not offer the check disable.
how did you get the chip off the board?
When i have my ps4 controller wired connected 2 different ones Has anyone had the issue where if you press a button it inputs it twice or if i hold a button it spams it off and on endlessly kinda like a turbo controller or something?? I have a ps3 controller wen i spam all the buttons it starts inputting like crazy even after i let go of the controller it continues for a short time you think this is my ps3 or the controllers
that soldering made me want to gouge my own eyes out lol - I salute your patience sir!
while it is possible that the power is to blame It is also possible that bad voltages or a short to ground are being fed over any of the other connections or even an issue with the antenna being shorted or something....
Would love to see a re-revisit. I’d say just try the new voltage regulator with the old WiFi chip on without the bad chip, so you can test for a short.
This is like the love boat in every way :)
This is likely a ridiculous thought. Could you somehow socket the chip in for a semi permanent solution
Vince, up to date there's still no fix for it?
I think your soldering iron is too hot for working on a small wifi board like that, that's why the pads easily loosen up.
Where can i find this on a cech 2004b?
Another thing to check for bad chips is to check for internal shorts by multimeter on the chip pins with the internal ground plane. None of those points should connect to the ground plane. It is there for heat dissipation and stability only.
Oh you did that lol
My ps3 slim has this problem. I first thought my controller battery was dying so i got a new controller. New controller needed to stay plugged in too. Then in noticed i couldnt find any wifi signals at all. After a while it would randomly shutoff with no lights. Had to unplug and plug back in to see red light. For whatever eason the power issues stopped, i just have to player with controller pligged in now
Digital multimeters might have a too low sampling rate to show the Voltage spike (Shows measurements too slowly), if it's even there. Try Your multimeters "Peak" reading. That might catch the spike. That's the kind of measurement where analog multimeters still have a slight edge :D
if you look at the datasheet for the AMS1117-ADJ you will see the formula to calculate the output voltage based on input voltage and the 2 resistors. i don't know about you but my maths has deteriorated since leaving school. in any case as others have pointed out below there is a AMS1117 1.8 volt fixed which is the one you should get. I've not looked at this one but the fixed output regulators tended to have a higher current rating than the adjustable ones.
Maybe it's not the chip, maybe its the power supply surging and causing the fault, what if the power supply is surging through the regulator and the power supply has gone faulty? Just a thought
I like the way you're thinking ;) Even if this work you will have perfect noisy radio on 2.4GHz rather than WiFi and wires between balls :D On that high frequency, the length between wires is essential, because it provides exact time delay and you ruin it, not to mention additional capacitance. If one signal path arrives later than other, you make a mess of data instructions. You should first check the voltages, the voltage regulator corresponding for WiFi may be damaged - probably a 3.3 or in the worst case 1.2 volts. Also the board may contain few power rails, or maybe a control line is damaged and provide higher voltage than needed. On multi layers boards - some pads are connected only to internal layers and this can cause you a failure. Those 1117, are low drop voltage regulators fixed on 1.2, 1.5, 1.8, 2.5 and 3.3V or 1117adj which is adjustable from 1.25 to 5V. They're low drop because they need minimum 0.2V difference between input and stabilized voltage to work or between set and output voltage (typical ones need couple of volts). And most IMPORTANT you forgot about STATIC ELECTRICITY CHARGES, you may burn the module at the moment you touch it without even connect it. Read about MOSFET transistors and CMOS chips and their sensitivity to static.
I'd be worried more about additional inductance than capacitance.
How to conect V+ V- & Data+ Data- ???
Try to somehow read all the wifi module voltages with the ps3 on but without the module connected and see if there are more voltages comming in or maybe voltage where there should be none.
One thing that makes me nervous is you powering on the ps3 without any heatsink attached :)
Remember though Vince, your measurement of 1.8V is without the load of the BT module. What you do not know is what the regulator outputs when the BT module loads it down. The load of a circuit always changes things. How much depends on how the components are working and that includes the regulator. Under load, the regulator may not be able to maintain 1.8V and it goes high.
LOL, guess I should have watched the rest of the video and you did realize the whole load thing.
@@chrishammond1230 That's the awkward joy with his videos: the temptation to respond prior to finding out the answers to your questions get the better of you. I've been guilty of this
Yeah, typed up the message while watching, pushed reply and not 5 seconds later he started talking about load. LOL I jumped the gun just a few seconds early. haha
@@YoureUsingWordsIncorrectly Aw, come on, I like the soup... sigh...
Vhat are vires? Is it vampire speak for wires?
Don't work to hard Vince mate make sure you take plenty healthy of breaks 🌏
Hi Vince on a multi pin chip it will require many different votlage,s on certain pins. therfore all grounds DO NOT equate to the main board ground. and if not any before, Have a Merry Christmas to you and your family, all the best.
Revisit will be great
I wouldn't expect your multimeter to have the bandwidth to rule out a voltage spike.
Vince in regards to your math at the 37 minute mark, the V(out) Equation you need was right in front of you.
Are you sure your soldering on the module isn't shorting through the solder mask? The ground plane comes really close to some of those pads.
try to connect 1.8v to some ohm consumer, and then it measures the voltage on that chip again
tonan182 • 6 segundos atrás
Tenho um problema no meu ps3 fat cechl01 placa ver-001 mas não acho na net nem o esquema nem tutorial pra resolver. Meu sintoma é: demora pra sincronizar os controles mas sincroniza tanto sem fio ou usb. Porém não pega intenet nem lan nem via wifi. Acho q a solução seria substituir o marvell inteiro certo? Pode me ajudar? Não nenhum diagrama me dizendo qual a localização do regulador 1.8 v pro meu modelo exato de placa mãe (que dizem por aí que é o motivo do problema . Vc ja resolveu deste modelo? Pode postar um video ajudando? Tem muitos querendo saber. Ou simplesmente me orientar? Fico muito grato. Sou de Belem/Pa
Aqui explica como fazer com o FAT. Tens que comprar um módulo, e me parece que é só conectar. Não precisa soldar.
www.ifixit.com/Guide/PlayStation+3+Wi-Fi-Bluetooth+Board+Replacement/3482