Thanks for the video. Most interesting. I did a void test on a bag of sharp sand from Wickes. The void test result was 0.41, which meant a 1:2.5 ratio for the lime mix. For laying bricks, I have had to use a much wetter mix just to try and get the muck to spread. The problem I have with a belle mixer is that the mortar sticks to the sides (via suction) and around it goes with occassional mixing. Certainly been interesting and much harder than cement mortar. However the overall finished look is fantastic. Keep the videos coming.
Not sure you can do that stickiness test with NHL 3.5 and as you say if you have to wet it to achieve stickiness then it’s too wet and will shrink and crack when drying. Hot lime mortars, however, will get sticky enough to pass the trowel test with very little water added.
Yes correct I was trying to get that across that NHL you don't need to stick to a trowel There's that many videos out there saying that's how you test your mix but it's not true for pointing with nhl
Hi Thanks for the videos I have found them very the. I have a question for you. My house has black ash mortar. I am going to repoint the house and would like to keep the black look of the mortar. Is it ok to use Iron oxide pigments with NHL lime, or should I be looking at using Pulverised Fuel Ash or a black sand? Thanks
Yes you can add any of them 3 The ash will act as a pozzalon If you can get black sand that is sharp otr gritty and angular not round you can use that Pigments are fine Black tends to go grey when it's dry and black when it's wet
Hi I want to some repointimg on my house, it's soft red brick, the house was built circa 1910. I was going to do a 6:1:1 sand, cement, lime mix. Do you think that would be ok? Or should I try your lime mix. I wanted a weatherstruck pointing finish but not sure I can do that with lime mortar.
If it's a solid wall and it will be lime built I'd use lime mortar helps with the breathability the (wicking away)of moisture Yes you can do weather struck lime but I'm not a fan of it I prefer a flush finish I use a 1 1 6 when I repoint flags Or houses after 1950s that are cement built This mix is a lot stronger than the lime mix There's 2 types Weather struck And weather struck and cut I don't like either I prefer to see the bricks first then the pointing With that type of pointing I always notice the pointing first Hope this helps
With nnl put into a bucket cover it with water and remix it up I'd add it to a fresh batch I make I even save the sand and lime water I wash out the mixer nothing goes to waste I wouldn't leave it more than a couple of days Putty you can do the same but putty lasts longer
@badger7284 no problem if the bricks are really soft and you are not in a heavy wind area use nhl2 If there slightly harder bricks in a bad weather area use 3.5 Use a washed grit or sharp sand don't use building Hope that helps
I'm doing some pointing I only did a small mix yesterday to see how it goes went well, because I was a bit slow learning making sure I do it right, the mix in the mixer got a little stiff twice and twice I added a little but of water as got a tad to dry , I think this is fine to so or is it not?
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd secil 3.5 external pointing sand stone/stone The old lime is putty i think or hot mix, it's got Charcoal / coal in it like is grey and black flecks, iv used NHL 3.5 and a sans from cardigan a black sand they use it on cardigan castle I'm trying to make the lime not to bright white it looks a a bit to much in bright white I personally think. Any advice on spraying the wwll before? I sprayed with horse soak the wall and waited about 20 mins for faxes do dry, I was slow so I sprayed the wall a second time in smaller areas now like not the whole wall this time, Can the morta behind be to wet? Or as long as the stone faces are dry to stop smudges and obviously not dripping water still in the joints Nice videos aswell mate good info I'm south Wales swanses , where are you based?
@@mikede2331 I'm north wales Buckley No as long as it's damp It's fine it stops the stone sucking the moisture out the pointing The mix will go light then after a while it will go to the sand colour You can add a little more water to your mix if it starts to dry out
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd cheese mate helps to be sure on this stuff don't want to mess it up it's my house front wall Mike wye company and videos has been a great help if you never heard of them
@@mikede2331 yeah mike is big in the lime world I've got loads of different videos up If you have any questions just ask After pointing keep it damp as long as you can so it doesn't dry out
@matthewingham7806 washed sharp or grit sand somthing that will compact together The only way you can tell if it's ready to churn brush is Press it if it leaves imprints of your finger it's not ready Or if you churn brush it off and you leave holes in the pointing it's not ready Always leave it 2 to 3 of hrs at this time of year but in the summer it can be only 30 minutes
@GMTpointingspecialistsltd mate this is so helpful .....do you fill it so it's protruding off the face then scratch it off with wood flush then churn it
@matthewingham7806 yes mate I've got about 50 vides on here just search gmt pointing specialists ltd they will pop up When you start wattsapp me a video I'll talk you through it
Another really helpful video that’s easy to follow and understand. 👍🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Thank you
Thanks for the video. Most interesting. I did a void test on a bag of sharp sand from Wickes. The void test result was 0.41, which meant a 1:2.5 ratio for the lime mix. For laying bricks, I have had to use a much wetter mix just to try and get the muck to spread. The problem I have with a belle mixer is that the mortar sticks to the sides (via suction) and around it goes with occassional mixing. Certainly been interesting and much harder than cement mortar. However the overall finished look is fantastic. Keep the videos coming.
If the mortar sticks to the sides you are doing a good mix
If it sticks to the side it will stick to the bricks or stone
Really interesting, thanks. Appreciate you taking the time to make the video.
Not sure you can do that stickiness test with NHL 3.5 and as you say if you have to wet it to achieve stickiness then it’s too wet and will shrink and crack when drying. Hot lime mortars, however, will get sticky enough to pass the trowel test with very little water added.
Yes correct
I was trying to get that across that NHL you don't need to stick to a trowel
There's that many videos out there saying that's how you test your mix but it's not true for pointing with nhl
Thanks for the informative video 👍 is it best not to point up a wall if rain is forecast the next day say?
Moisture is good for slow setting but you will need to cover your work anyway with hessian and tarpaulin
Just make sure any gutters aren't leaking
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd Thank you Glenn 👍👍👍
Invaluable info. Thanks
Thanks any questions just give me a message
I'm here to help
Excellent thanks
Hi Thanks for the videos I have found them very the.
I have a question for you. My house has black ash mortar.
I am going to repoint the house and would like to keep the black look of the mortar.
Is it ok to use Iron oxide pigments with NHL lime, or should I be looking at using Pulverised Fuel Ash or a black sand?
Thanks
Yes you can add any of them 3
The ash will act as a pozzalon
If you can get black sand that is sharp otr gritty and angular not round you can use that
Pigments are fine
Black tends to go grey when it's dry and black when it's wet
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd Amazing thanks for the advice.
well, what do I know? Is the answer add more water and let it mix?
Yes it's because there wasn't enough water to start with
My videos are for beginners to show them what to do if it happens
Hi I want to some repointimg on my house, it's soft red brick, the house was built circa 1910. I was going to do a 6:1:1 sand, cement, lime mix. Do you think that would be ok? Or should I try your lime mix. I wanted a weatherstruck pointing finish but not sure I can do that with lime mortar.
If it's a solid wall and it will be lime built I'd use lime mortar helps with the breathability the (wicking away)of moisture
Yes you can do weather struck lime but I'm not a fan of it I prefer a flush finish
I use a 1 1 6 when I repoint flags
Or houses after 1950s that are cement built
This mix is a lot stronger than the lime mix
There's 2 types
Weather struck
And weather struck and cut
I don't like either I prefer to see the bricks first then the pointing
With that type of pointing I always notice the pointing first
Hope this helps
Hi ,, Would it be any detriment to mixing with a paddle mixer ?
You can do but it still needs mixing dry for 10 minutes and mixing semi dry for 10 with a paddle mixer
Might be back breaking but can be done
Hi Glenn, is it okay to bag up any excess and use a day or two later without any problems? Cheers
With nnl put into a bucket cover it with water and remix it up
I'd add it to a fresh batch I make
I even save the sand and lime water I wash out the mixer nothing goes to waste
I wouldn't leave it more than a couple of days
Putty you can do the same but putty lasts longer
Thanks Glenn, that's really helpful
Hello , im going to point a brick chimney in virginia beach usa , coastal, what mix would you recommend . Thanks ,from a fellow jock .
Hi how olds the property
I believe it was built in 1968
@@alec1113 a 1 1 6 would be fine with that
You will probably find that it was built with sand cement lime
A brick house built in the 1900 what like would you say to use a 3.5 or a 5 nhl ?
A good quality lafarge or saint astier nhl 2 or 3.5
5 is for under ground
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd great thank you
@badger7284 no problem if the bricks are really soft and you are not in a heavy wind area use nhl2
If there slightly harder bricks in a bad weather area use 3.5
Use a washed grit or sharp sand don't use building
Hope that helps
Why not building sand ?
To many impurities
building sand is mainly to be used with cement
Lime you use a grit or sharp sand
I'm doing some pointing I only did a small mix yesterday to see how it goes went well, because I was a bit slow learning making sure I do it right, the mix in the mixer got a little stiff twice and twice I added a little but of water as got a tad to dry , I think this is fine to so or is it not?
What lime was you using and what make
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd secil 3.5 external pointing sand stone/stone
The old lime is putty i think or hot mix, it's got Charcoal / coal in it like is grey and black flecks, iv used NHL 3.5 and a sans from cardigan a black sand they use it on cardigan castle I'm trying to make the lime not to bright white it looks a a bit to much in bright white I personally think.
Any advice on spraying the wwll before? I sprayed with horse soak the wall and waited about 20 mins for faxes do dry, I was slow so I sprayed the wall a second time in smaller areas now like not the whole wall this time,
Can the morta behind be to wet? Or as long as the stone faces are dry to stop smudges and obviously not dripping water still in the joints
Nice videos aswell mate good info
I'm south Wales swanses , where are you based?
@@mikede2331 I'm north wales Buckley
No as long as it's damp
It's fine it stops the stone sucking the moisture out the pointing
The mix will go light then after a while it will go to the sand colour
You can add a little more water to your mix if it starts to dry out
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd cheese mate helps to be sure on this stuff don't want to mess it up it's my house front wall
Mike wye company and videos has been a great help if you never heard of them
@@mikede2331 yeah mike is big in the lime world
I've got loads of different videos up
If you have any questions just ask
After pointing keep it damp as long as you can so it doesn't dry out
Hi mate ....can you put buoldong sand in the mix
Hi is that building sand
If so I always use a grit or sharp sand I personally never use building sand as there's to much impurities in it
@GMTpointingspecialistsltd does it have to be washed sharp sand mate and how long can I leave it before I rub it down and use a churn brush on it
@matthewingham7806 washed sharp or grit sand somthing that will compact together
The only way you can tell if it's ready to churn brush is
Press it if it leaves imprints of your finger it's not ready
Or if you churn brush it off and you leave holes in the pointing it's not ready
Always leave it 2 to 3 of hrs at this time of year but in the summer it can be only 30 minutes
@GMTpointingspecialistsltd mate this is so helpful .....do you fill it so it's protruding off the face then scratch it off with wood flush then churn it
@matthewingham7806 yes mate I've got about 50 vides on here just search gmt pointing specialists ltd they will pop up
When you start wattsapp me a video I'll talk you through it
What would ye re point a 1940’s chimney with?
It depends what part of the country you live in
And the type of bricks
But yes I've done a video on repointing a chimney in nhl3.5
Is it possible to do a mix by hand. IE without a bell mixer.
Yes bust you will have to mix it for a longer time it's hard word but do able use a plastic bath
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd Thank you.
Is that hydraulic lime
Yes
NHL is short for natural hydraulic lime
There's different quality's of NHL so choose carefully
never put your hand into moving mixer!!
Yeah true I shouldn't off
Glenn, do what you want mate😂