Correction: the mix should be 1 part quick lime to 3 parts sharp sand. The quick lime then expands on slaking to provide a 1 part quick lime to 2 parts sharp sand mix.
You need to remember the slaked lime will expand from its original measure. This has been anticipated with the initial measurements before slaking had started.
This is very true, one is using three parts sand another four and another then again different ratio. Here in this video it could have been spent more time explaining sand ratio and why sand stone had been used. Ok sand stone sand adds to breathability but Is that sand stone sand sharp sand? What is then in another backers if there is already in one sharp sand. How graded are sharp sands? Is it washed sharp sand? Can any Sharp sand be used? Does this mix consist only of sharp sand aggregate? I know builder sand ought to be not used due to its impurities,but really want to know more about the aggregates to make proper mix. Is this mix for pointing or what can be used for! Historically, this is incorrect mix in terms of ratio to the lime, furthermore, sharp sand has never been used in the past in conjunction with lime. Nevertheless, it is very informative video.
Also, i must say that I had difficulty getting lime stone dust. Couple of buildings merchants I went to buy from or order at least lime stone dust 4 mm down to dust, well, most of them didn’t have a clue what I was asking, they look at me kind of weird. It tuned out that it is painstakingly process to order, and if one contrive in it, only bulk bag can be delivered.
Really excellent stuff, as you say there are a few small scale films out there but are impractical for larger scale jobs, so what is your background mason? Brickie?
Great video James , just a question my local quarry sells crushed limestone 6mm down to dust ,could I mix this with sharp plastering sand (it’s brown in colour) , for random stone pointing! As I’m finding it very hard to find sharp washed 5mm gritsand . Also if you were using ratio 3/1 is it still 11/2 water 💧 Tnx
Pity the sand was too dry so didn’t show a good reaction. After they were left to finish slaking (30 min.), both bins were wetted up and used whilst still warm. With a wetter sand they can be used straight away.
Hi Mike great video. Nice to see someone doing a more realistic size mix for those of us needing to use a fair amount and not having to mix up a thimble full every five minutes. I'm guessing you guys are in Bristol from the mention of Holme sand. I was there for 8 years now moved to North Devon and renovating a run down lovely farmstead. I've been using putty mortars for years but just about to tackle my first hot mix with some calbux 90. With the aggregates. I have a nice washed sharp sand available here albeit lacking in any limestone. There's no finer silica sand like holme available. There is what they use for plastering here they call a mortar sand. Similar grain size to holme but a bit red and crap looking. Might be okay for a hot mix. What ratio of sands do you suggest I use? I guess as no limestone aggregate 3:1 with the quicklime but unsure on the ratio of sharp to finer stuff. Do I even need the finer stuff? Should I add a little pozzolan as were a bit prone to rain here although were semi sheltered ish? I have loads of broken slate I can grind to dust to use as a mild pozzolan. So many questions. I'm reading Nigels book at the mo. Great vid. Cheers. Ben
Dr Fish Hi, Good to hear about your project. Yes, we’re just north of Bristol near Thornbury. The aggregate needs a mix of sizes up to a third of the thickness of a mortar joint, usually 0-4mm which if drawn on a graph would form a bell-curve. Our local mortars are all ash mortars which have no sand aggregate at all! Use a local sand to try and match your local mortar colour. You could use all slate dust if that matches, try a small patch and see how it is after three weeks. We have used the Biddeford grit mixed with Holme sand (a coarser grade of Holme to give a better size variation). Mike.
@@mikehardwick8070 Thanks. I've gone for 50/50 mix of the local sands and a little limestone flour I found in Mole Valley for cheap. Been going well so far. Got most of the gable end fixed up now. Yea I know too well the Bristol black mix mortars. Horrible if you have to rip anything out like an old ceiling. Cheers again for your video. This is my go to method of mixing now. Hoping to get a roller pan mixer in the near future as I have a lot of Masonry to build in the spring but it's hard to find one and man they're expensive. Worked out I need at least 7 tonnes of mortar. I can buy premixed but by the time the delivery cost is added it's not very cheap either.
Dr Fish Thank you, glad it works for you. We have four bins which means that when we use all of them some are “cooking” whilst others are filled, whisked or emptied. This way there is no waiting time and we can mix up half a tonne relatively quickly on site and ready to use hot. A roller pan may not be easy to move and would crush out a lot of the variation in the mix, so it may not match the original colour so well if trying to match but would give better conformity.
you learned wrong. This is due to a huge misunderstanding of 1:3 meant only 1 part quicklime and not NHL or Hydrated lime and 3 parts sand which after slaking will be about 2 parts lime to 3 parts sand.
Correction: the mix should be 1 part quick lime to 3 parts sharp sand. The quick lime then expands on slaking to provide a 1 part quick lime to 2 parts sharp sand mix.
Thanks for doing this!
wow mate that's a fantastic mixing method, thanks
Thanks for that all the other videos on the subject are too high brow this gave me what I needed to know
Very educational - excellent.
Really Interesting!!!!
I have to get on with it now
Excellent video.
Thank you James.
As far as I know as Nigel Copsey states the mix should be 1 part quick lime to 2 parts by volume of well graded sand. This is a historical mix.
ok. in another video a professional stated 5:1 ratio 🙄
You need to remember the slaked lime will expand from its original measure. This has been anticipated with the initial measurements before slaking had started.
@@annashealthylifeeverything8583 that "professional" along with about 99% of them are mistaken.
This is very true, one is using three parts sand another four and another then again different ratio. Here in this video it could have been spent more time explaining sand ratio and why sand stone had been used. Ok sand stone sand adds to breathability but Is that sand stone sand sharp sand? What is then in another backers if there is already in one sharp sand. How graded are sharp sands? Is it washed sharp sand? Can any Sharp sand be used? Does this mix consist only of sharp sand aggregate? I know builder sand ought to be not used due to its impurities,but really want to know more about the aggregates to make proper mix. Is this mix for pointing or what can be used for! Historically, this is incorrect mix in terms of ratio to the lime, furthermore, sharp sand has never been used in the past in conjunction with lime. Nevertheless, it is very informative video.
Also, i must say that I had difficulty getting lime stone dust. Couple of buildings merchants I went to buy from or order at least lime stone dust 4 mm down to dust, well, most of them didn’t have a clue what I was asking, they look at me kind of weird. It tuned out that it is painstakingly process to order, and if one contrive in it, only bulk bag can be delivered.
Really excellent stuff, as you say there are a few small scale films out there but are impractical for larger scale jobs, so what is your background mason? Brickie?
Use a bit of waving pipe before you put and in. Put kibble in pipe. Pull out pipe.
exelent , thank you, sorry for asking ...in what do you use the morter, for repointing ?
Great video James , just a question my local quarry sells crushed limestone 6mm down to dust ,could I mix this with sharp plastering sand (it’s brown in colour) , for random stone pointing! As I’m finding it very hard to find sharp washed 5mm gritsand . Also if you were using ratio 3/1 is it still 11/2 water 💧 Tnx
Pity the sand was too dry so didn’t show a good reaction. After they were left to finish slaking (30 min.), both bins were wetted up and used whilst still warm.
With a wetter sand they can be used straight away.
Hi Mike great video. Nice to see someone doing a more realistic size mix for those of us needing to use a fair amount and not having to mix up a thimble full every five minutes. I'm guessing you guys are in Bristol from the mention of Holme sand. I was there for 8 years now moved to North Devon and renovating a run down lovely farmstead. I've been using putty mortars for years but just about to tackle my first hot mix with some calbux 90. With the aggregates. I have a nice washed sharp sand available here albeit lacking in any limestone. There's no finer silica sand like holme available. There is what they use for plastering here they call a mortar sand. Similar grain size to holme but a bit red and crap looking. Might be okay for a hot mix. What ratio of sands do you suggest I use? I guess as no limestone aggregate 3:1 with the quicklime but unsure on the ratio of sharp to finer stuff. Do I even need the finer stuff? Should I add a little pozzolan as were a bit prone to rain here although were semi sheltered ish? I have loads of broken slate I can grind to dust to use as a mild pozzolan. So many questions. I'm reading Nigels book at the mo. Great vid. Cheers. Ben
Dr Fish
Hi,
Good to hear about your project. Yes, we’re just north of Bristol near Thornbury.
The aggregate needs a mix of sizes up to a third of the thickness of a mortar joint, usually 0-4mm which if drawn on a graph would form a bell-curve.
Our local mortars are all ash mortars which have no sand aggregate at all! Use a local sand to try and match your local mortar colour. You could use all slate dust if that matches, try a small patch and see how it is after three weeks.
We have used the Biddeford grit mixed with Holme sand (a coarser grade of Holme to give a better size variation).
Mike.
@@mikehardwick8070 Thanks. I've gone for 50/50 mix of the local sands and a little limestone flour I found in Mole Valley for cheap. Been going well so far. Got most of the gable end fixed up now. Yea I know too well the Bristol black mix mortars. Horrible if you have to rip anything out like an old ceiling. Cheers again for your video. This is my go to method of mixing now. Hoping to get a roller pan mixer in the near future as I have a lot of Masonry to build in the spring but it's hard to find one and man they're expensive. Worked out I need at least 7 tonnes of mortar. I can buy premixed but by the time the delivery cost is added it's not very cheap either.
Dr Fish
Thank you, glad it works for you.
We have four bins which means that when we use all of them some are “cooking” whilst others are filled, whisked or emptied. This way there is no waiting time and we can mix up half a tonne relatively quickly on site and ready to use hot.
A roller pan may not be easy to move and would crush out a lot of the variation in the mix, so it may not match the original colour so well if trying to match but would give better conformity.
Mike, do you add any pozzalan to your hot mixes? Great video, thanks
could the reaction of not worked properly due to drowning the kibbles at the start?
Great Video James, at one point you mentioned that you added stone dust, is that to act as a pozzolan?
i realize I'm quite randomly asking but do anybody know a good site to watch new movies online?
INFORMATIVE VIDEO, COULD YOU CLARIFY WHAT DID YOU MEAN BY 1¹/2 MEASURE WATER?
IS THE RATIO 1 PART LIME + 3 PARTS SAND + 1¹/2 WATER.
THANKS.
Where u get u quicklime?
Is this quicklime from a UK producer?
I learned it should be 5:1, not 4:1
you learned wrong. This is due to a huge misunderstanding of 1:3 meant only 1 part quicklime and not NHL or Hydrated lime and 3 parts sand which after slaking will be about 2 parts lime to 3 parts sand.
Where in uk u got limestone sand from plss?
Tarmac do lime
No PPE? Highly unprofessional
Hes got his safety boots on 👍🏼