Fix 3D Printer Leak Hotend "BLOB OF DEATH". Install Micro Swiss FlowTech Hotend - Creality CR-10 SE

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  • čas přidán 4. 07. 2024
  • Creality CR10-SE: Removing Hotend with "BLOB OF DEATH". Installing ‪@MicroSwissLLC‬ Flow-Tech Hotend - This will apply to most newer Creality printers with the Ceramic Hot Ends
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Komentáře • 24

  • @3DRundown
    @3DRundown  Před měsícem +1

    Have I helped you? Help ME continue this channel with some support:
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  • @zac2877
    @zac2877 Před měsícem

    Mr Greg I think it's really cool that you acknowledge that it Can kind of a scary situation to some of us 3D printing newbies.
    I think that reassurance is important. Because I think that's one of the biggest things that stops people from fixing their own stuff, from doing DIY projects, and causing people to abandon a project or a hobby.
    I haven't experienced one yet, but I've seen them and in the back of my mind I'm like holy crap when will this happen. It's good to know that it is not the end of the world.

    • @3DRundown
      @3DRundown  Před měsícem

      Totally. Can be scary for me also...... Just remind yourself, if other nerds can do it, so can you. Approach it, not as an intimidating whole, but rather ONE STEP AT A TIME. This Screw. This spacer. This wire.... And you can do anything. 💯💯💯

  • @OurLuv2cre8
    @OurLuv2cre8 Před 5 dny

    Thank you for the video. 3D printing newbie, and this just happened to me after having the printer for 3 months. I came across this after already clearing the blob, but it is good to see I went about it correctly. One question if you don't mind, I noticed the heater block on your CR 10 se was black while mine is silver. It just makes me wonder if the printer I purchased was refurbished by Creality or if they were manufactured with different parts depending on when and where it was purchased.

    • @3DRundown
      @3DRundown  Před 5 dny +1

      Color is irrelevant, I assume it's chosen based on what's available during manufacture. However, Bambu Lab uses Black to identify Hardened Steal. Not the case here

  • @olwynskye417
    @olwynskye417 Před měsícem

    I have the same problem with a blob for the second time, but unlike the first time, this time the printer really tried its best to end it all. Actually snapped the power cables going into the hotend and a fan. Quite glad it snapped before damaging the board it was attached to, because I don't think they sell those. Only had the printer for 2 weeks, when it did this despite making sure things were properly tightened.
    Now ordered the Micro Swiss hotend for my Ender-3 V3 KE, because read that it shouldn't allow the plastic to leak all over the place. Also being able to print higher temperature filaments is a nice bonus (not yet sure how to change the settings from 220°C to 300°C when the time comes). Need to order a heat gun too because of this, but the one I'm planning to order can only do 260°C / 450°C. Do you think that would be enough to get the blob off?
    While I was planning to upgrade my printer to a better hotend at some point, I didn't expect having to spend 1/3 of the printer's price on it this soon. Thanks for the video.

    • @3DRundown
      @3DRundown  Před měsícem

      Hey buddy. Sorry this happened to you. Lemme get the unpleasant part out of the way... The Blob of death is almost always user error. I have over 40 machines, and thousands of prints a year, under my belt. I've only had one blob of death ever. These Ceramic hot ends, do appear to be more susceptible to them, but, it's almost always not the fault of the printer.
      The new hot end will be up superb quality. However, it will be mostly the same design. Be SURE to snug up everything properly, especially the grub screw holding the nozzle to the copper tube. It's really SUS, that it's only ONE grub screw. Make sure to get it right.... FLUSH, and SNUG.
      If a print loses bed adhesion.... STOP THE PRINT. Running for hours, dragging the model around in the air, is how most of these blobs happen!
      That said.... Sh*t like this, is just part of the 3D Printing world. Get through it, and get back to making! 🏆🏆

  • @octapareja
    @octapareja Před 19 dny

    hey, great video!!! do you know if the fan can be replaced by a noctua 40x10 12v?

    • @3DRundown
      @3DRundown  Před 18 dny

      Not sure. The Fans on Cr10-SE are loud af

  • @rambokd
    @rambokd Před měsícem

    Good to see your 10Se up again, sold mine to get a P1S. I had to see what all the hype is about and now I know.

    • @3DRundown
      @3DRundown  Před měsícem +1

      It's been a paperweight for months. Printing better than ever, with the new hot end. My P1S puts in allot of work. A good teammate with my K1's

    • @rambokd
      @rambokd Před měsícem

      @@3DRundown Patiently waiting for the T1, I think after this P1 experience it’s going to be a let down. Multi color is the way anycubic has come out strong with their new cobra 3 combo and the price…beats out the a1 and the mini. I need to see your review on though!

    • @3DRundown
      @3DRundown  Před měsícem

      I emailed Anycubic, at length, offering to cover the new Kobra 3 Combo, but, sadly, they replied without any sign on comprehension. The FL SUN T1? Feel free to recommend me to them.. :)

    • @3DRundown
      @3DRundown  Před měsícem

      I sent an email to FLSUN, about the T1. We'll see what happens.

  • @DawidhabdArup_N7
    @DawidhabdArup_N7 Před 28 dny

    Hi again. Hope you are well and safe! I got te same issue of my new CR-10 SE. I was wondering if I have the choice between CR-10 SE and K1 Speedy, which one I should choose? I am sure you will say that depends on what I want to print for and why, but as being new to the 3D Printing, I am not that confident as you all are. I also would like to have the option to use Laser Print as CR-10 SE version does not have, but K1 Speedy has (I think). I could have the CR-10's other models but I cannot keep levelling the bed using the wheels due to my disability and lack of knowledge. So, I would be obliged and grateful, if you please let me know so, I can decide what to do.
    Remember, *_Life_* is *_Short_* so, *_Live Long_* and *_Prosper_* … 🖖 Cheers, matey!!!

    • @3DRundown
      @3DRundown  Před 27 dny

      This is not even debatable. The K1 mops the floor with the Cr-10 SE. If possible, go with the K1C.

  • @IsmaelLito
    @IsmaelLito Před měsícem

    where i can find the piezoelectric ceramic creality for cr-10 se

  • @zac2877
    @zac2877 Před měsícem

    How does the flotec hotend compare to the creality stock hot end on the CR10?

    • @3DRundown
      @3DRundown  Před měsícem +3

      I'm not one to send people to third part options, and I don't typically gravitate toward that either, however, so far, being only 1+ days in, I'm very pleased. My CR10 had layer line issues, that I couldn't crack, and, I'm not seeing that anymore. Is it CP 5? Is it the new hotend? Is it both? Who knows, but, the print quality, on my test prints so far, has been fantastic. Also, the build quality of the hot end, to me, looks better than the stock hot end. Would I replace a working CR10-SE hotend, with this one? Probably not. But, am I comfortable recommending it, as a replacement? Definitely.

  • @Heliomation
    @Heliomation Před měsícem

    First time I've seen a blob of death 💀

    • @3DRundown
      @3DRundown  Před měsícem

      Doesn't it look fun! 😂😂

  • @zac2877
    @zac2877 Před měsícem

    I'm watching this as a precursor to the inevitable😂

    • @3DRundown
      @3DRundown  Před měsícem

      You know it! 😂😂🤜🏼🤛🏼