I've got a pretty crazy repair story here you probably won't believe. Have an Epson Powerlite 8350... 9 years old, 450 hours... for a while it would start up with some loud clicking sounds, other times it would click and wouldn't start up, fans would boot and it would try to start up but then shut down with both red lights blinking. Had it apart to try to clean autoiris; moved the gears freely with a long screwdriver without disassembling them and they looked clean and greased. Also pulled out the sliding 'filter' (motorized) and sprayed into the limit switches with contact cleaner. Put it back together and no more clicking sound but it would still shut down with both lights blinking after several seconds prior to the lamp turning on. Finally out of frustration I thought well maybe there is something "stuck" that won't move for bootup so I shook it (like a paint can) while it was booting and it booted up! It has started up perfectly now several times since (without shaking). Can't explain it but I'm really hoping it works for a few more years!!! So I'm guessing it might have had something to do with the motorized lens filter or a fan motor that was stuck. Something mechanical.
Oops, on further testing I now know that my Red colors are completely missing from the picture. Blues and yellows are there good and bright. Suspect it might be a cable connector problem with the Red LCD. This didn't cause a fault code and it boots up fine, just effected the picture which is otherwise good (focused and no streaks etc)
Yes that sounds like ribbon cable on lcd, try unplugging it and plugging it back in, sometimes they just miss align with pins on not plugged in far enough
@@MaxELECTRONICS Exactly, my red ribbon cable end wasn't fully seated and 'locked' at the circuit board. Projector's working perfect now! Fingers crossed.
Great video. very well explained. good Job mate. I had epson 8345 projectector I had it for almost 8 years now and it seems like half of the screen has a some sort of bugs flicker. lack of term for the problem
Hi max. Great video! You are really knowledgeable and I admire your ability to explain. I've got an Epson tw6100 which is faulty, showing a brighter horizontal line just below the middle with the lower part being red in tone. I'm curious if this could be symptoms of a bad polerizer. Not sure how to share an image of the issue without CZcams removing my comment. Thanks for your help. - Simon
Hello, I have a projector just like yours, this one and the EPSON POWER LITE HOME CINEMA 9500UB. There was a problem with the LCD panels, I had to remove them. A friend of mine offered me the Panasonic PT-ae 3000 panels, which according to him could work on my Epson since the panel codes are the same. As you are a technician, I need to know if replacing the Epson panels with the Panasonic panels would work.
If they’re same model number then yes but you won’t be able to put it back together because the convergence will be off and there’s no way to align it at home, usually you’d replace whole yoke. You should never separate lcd panels from the prism.
Thanks for the reply buddy. The LCDs on my Epson have the following codes: blue LCD L3C07U-85G11, green LCD L3C07U-86G11, red LCD L3C07u-85G11. Panasonic panels are: blue LCD L3C07U-86G11, green LCD L3C07U-85G11, red LCD L3C07U-86G11. Can you let me know if I can replace these panels, i.e. if the Panasonic panels will work on my Epson
Yes, I know that. However I will buy the complete optical block with the three LCDs already aligned and glued to the prism. It was taken from a Panasonic projector without concert
Hello friend! I have a Panasonic Pt ae 4000u projector, when it turns on it only turns on the light without generating an image. So I turn it off and after a few moments I turn it on again, then it turns on normally generating an image. Could this be a video card issue or an internal source issue
Hi really great fix-tutorial, thnx. I was wandering if you could share a little bit of your knowledge, and help me out with my projector. I have an Epson Powerlite 730HD, and the whole image is blue tinted...I can see the red and I guess some green too, but the main colour is blue. Could it be the polarizer? Or its something else?
Sounds like an lcd panel, check that no optics is loose and nothing unglued. If everything is in place check the connection to the lcd panels. Try displaying black text on red then black on blue and black on green , see what one doesn’t show up
Dear Max, I'm just a little bit confused, the green tint is caused by the green polarizer, and what you cut out is the blue polarizer, so the green polarizer can be replaced with the blue one? I remeber for the output polarizer, it must be same color polarizer can be replaced? thanks very much
Hi, yes green tint when the screen is suppose to be black is caused by green input polariser , it just needs to be adjusted (tilted right or left) until tint disappears and spleen becomes black, (that only if the green tint you seeing is even through the whole screen) if it’s only green in some places then it’s your output polariser. In some projectors green and blue are the same output polariser type, but in some projectors green output must be replaced with another green one. You could always install the blue polariser in place of green and see if the colours change, if they don’t change then you can use blue one in place of green.
Hi Max. great video. any chance you could show how to actually take the top off? I have tw3200 and dust inside of the lens, it got real bad over the years. Any chance you could show that too?
Greetings Max and thank you for this great video. I just bought this same model second hand and the focus ring is really tight, maybe stuck. Id like to ask for your advice for the proper way to handle it since I don’t want to force it and I can’t figure out what could be keeping it tight. The zoom ring works smoothly though. Thank you!
hi have epson hc-8350= two red light blinkin but no picture lamp & temp lights are blinking can any one have idea whates going on how can i fix it ?????
Hi, try checking that all temperature sensors with multimeter, check all Fans and ensure they are okay, also check the iris and X.V colour filter make sure they can move freely and not stuck.
My comment / question seems to have disappeared… I was asking where to find input-output polarisers. Now saw you said AliExpress no matter the projector’s brand. Can we find all polarisers (red blue yellow) ? Think there are 8 of them in there…
Hi, yes CZcams seems to remove random comments, I never delete any comments regardless if they positive or negative. I only dealt with green ones, as they usually the ones that burn out, but yes, AliExpress is where I buy them.
Hi Max, Thanks for demystifying the projector's optical system, as I have never worked on a projector before. I purchased a second-hand faulty Epsom TW- 6000W that has an error showing the temp and lamp indicators flashing red. I have tested the temp sensors, and most of the fans spin with 12V applied. There are two fans, which are Toshiba SF84M12-51AP, that don't spin with 12V. I could not find a datasheet on these. Should they spin with just 12V, or do they need a PWM signal to spin?
Thank Max for the prompt response. What else would you suggest I should look for to solve the lamp and temp error lights. Also, after seeing you video I looked at the polarisers and noticed the one for green was on an angle unlike R and B which are parallel to the lcds, is this normal? Kind regards Anthony
@anthonydebono8700 check that all thermistors and thermal cut outs are okay, check that all fans are spinning, make sure bulb is good. Are you talking about input or output polariser ?
Hi Max. The angled polariser is right in front of the green LCD. Also, when the lamp and temp error is indicated, it is at the moment the lamp comes on. Does this mean the lamp is the issue? I know the previous owner had the lamp ballast board replaced. Thanks in advance
@anthonydebono8700 it’s hard to tell with the lamp, you can strike the lamp by shorting out the optocoupler and see it it ignites property, but use extreme caution, there are very high voltages in that ballast, as for polariser, if it’s not loose then it’s probably suppose to be on the angle.
Just curious I have a power lite 8100 and I am getting just a little blurring at the to and bottom of my picture with a slight hint of pink any thoughts? Could this be my bulb or dirt inside. I did clean my outer lens any help would be appreciated.
I have an Epson Home Cinema 760HD projector that I bought as a renewed (refurbished) item from Amazon. I wasn't using it right away, but I did open it up to test it out and it came on and projected the blue screen and menu just fine, so I put it away until using it for a gig. After I got to the gig and got it hooked up, the picture and even the menu kept cutting out and coming back on. I eventually figured out that it only did this when a video source was hooked up. I tried changing from the HDMI input to the composite input and it did the same thing, but as soon as I disconnected the video input signal then the menu and all stayed on fine. Unfortunately, I discovered this just 3 days past the warranty period ended. Any ideas on what could be causing this and is it fixable? What part(s) would I likely need to check/replace?
I’d check power supply to make sure all output rails have correct voltages under load, specially try capturing moment the screen disappears, oscilloscope would be best tool, if there’s a dip in power when projector plays up, then you know there’s a problem with power supply under load conditions, could be old capacitor.
Very good video, thanks! I'm pretty sure now that my Panasonic has a problem with one or more of the out polarizer.. There is a mark on the right side of the image, the picture look more orange in this aera. And the other side the image looks more blue. This is not uniform, so I think the polarizers are burned. When a buy the projector, the filter was really dirty, the lack of cooling maybe cause the problem. I have already check the input polarizers and it seems to be good. I have also cleaned all the lenses and the mirrors, but the marks are stile here. Can I try to put other out polarizers from a different 3-lcd projector (with corresponding colors) ? The input and output polarizer can be swapped? Thank you a lot for all your help and your videos 👍🙂
@@MaxELECTRONICS all right, thanks 🙂 I will try to replace them with those of a another brand projector. They are both .87" lcd panel, I hope they will fit in.
Thanks very much for your excellent video which has helped me identify a burnt out green out polarizer in my Epson projector. One question: what type of glue would you recommend for repostioning the new polarizer? I guess it needs to be something that withstands the heat in the light engine.
Thank you for your comment, I usually use silicone, it works really well with high temperatures, same goes for the car, for example I usually silicone dash cam to the windshield, in australia during summer cars get extremely hot and everything falls off but silicone, so I used silicone in my projectors amd it works great.
Hi, Thanks for the good tutorial, My question is about a lens (exact name I do not know) At 5.53 min of this video it is very visible It is the vertically laminated square lens in front of the green xv color filter you just activated. The lens I assume is a diffractor of some sort. It is a non-replaceable part I understand. Can it be removed and still work, ok? As soon as I get some parts in the mail I will test. Mine is burnt, delaminated and the glue is browninsh. Yes very late to the party here.
You can buy a replacement lens, AliExpress would have them, that lens spreads the lights evenly through light guides. You’ll loose all brightness if you remove it
Hey, I have two Epson 8100s cinemalite with same failure: distortion/smudging of colors in center of image only. The periphery of image is good. Any pointers, please!
Yes, it’s your output polariser. Probably green or blue. I have a video on my channel “polarisers explained” watch this video where I explain how to fix this issue
No, you need colour-specific polarizer, you can search eBay or AliExpress for key words like: “Green OUT polarizer projector”. They have them on eBay & AliExpress
Hi, recently I change my epson 8350 red LCD panel after that I got double image pink and white (not clear image) convergence issue. Please help me how to alignment the LCD panel
Hi it’s almost impossible to do at home, you’d need to get the yoke (lcd assembly) out of the projector, connect it to the main board with extension ribbon cables and display any alignment image on them, then using a microscope you can align them
Thank you for this great video. I've got a question concerning the two red lights flashing. I have the same issue which startet some days ago while running the projector for a couple of minutes. Bulb turned off, plus both red lights fashing. Afterwards I was able to watch about half an hour with no issues. Then again the same problem. I exchaned the bulb but nothing changed. Now it's exactly like in your video at about min 12. The bulb lights up, runs a couple of seconds and turns off again. When you say the problem is either the shutter or the cinema filter, do you mean the red flashing lights point directly to these tow possibilities or might there be any other reasons. thanks in advance!
Try turning “auto iris” to off, if the problem continues then it must be one of the temperature sensors are faulty, also check that fans are clean and no dirt is built up in vents
@@MaxELECTRONICS Thanks again for the reply. I figured out that auto iris is not activated so this might not cause the problem. I noticed the behaviour that when I didn't try to start the projector for 24 hrs. then it starts correct and runs for about a min till it shuts down to the error mode. when I try to start it again then it's the behaviour as yours in the video (bulb lights up and shuts down after a few seconds). After several times trying to start it doesn't even try to light the bulb. Does this behaviour lead to a certain point where I should start looking for faults? Thanks in advance.
It could be faulty thermal sensor, if it runs for a minute and then shuts down, also check for any abnormal looking electrolytic capacitors on any of the boards, they look ether with slightly raised top or they’ll look chubby compare to good ones or they’ll have some brownish residue around them
Unfortunately that’s almost impossible. Like I mentioned in the video, whatever you do, do not remove the lcd panels, as it would cause convergence problems, you could try getting the whole engine out and shine very bright torch in place of lamp, then block one colour with cardboard and using the white projection on the wall from the torch try aligning the pixels, you won’t get it 100% but at list it’s better then nothing. The pixels should be just visible.
I really appreciate this video, thank you! I’m currently troubleshooting the North American version of this (PowerLite 8500), but looks extremely similar. Could I get the diagram you drew of the ballast communication connector? Mine is making the lamp come on dimly then shutting off, but on occasion lighting up fully. It may try to start up to 3 times before failing. Only the lamp LED blinks though on failure. I have tried two different bulbs and both can work but both will fail too. Am I right to suspect the ballast? Thank you!
Hitachi PJ-TX10 Projector, display shows watermark image of any previously watched video, what is solution please??? even have reset every setting menu of the projector but problem persist.
Hi Max, this is a great video very in depth. Is there any way to realign the LCD panels once removed? I did that on an epson tw-6000 and the convergence as you said is like 3D😂
It’s a nightmare to realign lcds, i made a mistake taking them off ones, what I did is I used a very bright torch and shine is through the engine, then I used blue tag and held lcds to the assy with it, then. I’ve attached Center lcd properly, and use it as a reference, and slowly I’d push side lcd bit by bit amd run up to a faint focused white rectangular projected on the wall from the torch and see if needed more adjustment, it’s a nightmare and frustrating. Once 2 lcds aligned close enough I use a drop of glue to set in place, so there’s no easy way to align them.
@@MaxELECTRONICS Thanks for the information. I just gave it a shot and i am confused by shining the torch through the light engine? I have a strong torch but nothing comes through the lens, i removed the optical lcd assembly and put the torch through each lcd then i had a rectangle on the wall of each colour but i still cant work out how to align by putting the torch in the same place as the lamp would sit to get a rectangle on the wall? Can i remove the lens to align or does that need to stay fitted as well thanks in advance
You need to do it in the dark, I used HID torch, make sure your shutter is open and light shines through optical engine, you will see faint screen on the wall and you’ll see the lcds out of alignment
@@MaxELECTRONICS I have the same problem with misaligned colors on an epson hc2000 :/ I'm going to try to do what you say, I thought about it but I don't have the courage to do it great video greetings
Hi Max, Thanks for the video - I don't suppose you have a spare mainboard (bottom one) for a EH-TW4500? I have broken the connector for the Green LCD on the board and I think the easiest repair is to get a new board! Please let me know!
@@MaxELECTRONICS Thanks so much for replying! I have tried to look but can't identify the correct one! I don't suppose you know the actual connector name or part number etc? I can do the repair if I had the connector! Thanks so much.
They called FFC/FPC connector, you can find them on ebay, you just have to count how many pins, and measure pitch. Here’s link with example: www.ebay.com.au/itm/295220293017?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-154756-20017-0&ssspo=hso6y7cpsw2&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=D1OZOxU5QAG&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Subbed, very awesome and valuable info. Besides the color of the polarizer, are there any other special attributes? For example, I found a nice Sony That I am sure has a bad blue polarizer but the replacement part from Sony is extremely expensive can I just pick up a generic one and if so what is needed to know about the one that was in the device? I want to make sure it is compatible and high-quality
You’ll need to determine what polarizer has gone bad. IN or Out polarizer, then you can get one from eBay or AliExpress, they usually sell them as a piece of film that you stick to original piece of glass, (after you peel old polarizer off) there’s a video that I did on “how optical engine works” you can find on my channel, that should help you bit more in understanding polarizers. But any generic polarizer will work or even polarizer from another projector as long as it’s from same colour.
Awesome, thanks. Watching the other one now. I am buying a Sony vw600es for $500 now and screen is very yellow, so I am thinking either blue or green polarizer issues.
Ok, thanks a bunch! I am going to test it, if it is evenly yellow, I will walk, If it is blotchy like a polarizer failure, I will get it. Cant imagine a 4K lcd screen being worth it to replace. I believe these also have independent color control boards... so that would probably not be worth it either.
Hi Max, I have an epson 3020 that was producing red and blue bands on the screen, seems to be fairly common without much information developed or shared to date. Found one that suggested a filter was out of alignment/loose after the iris control. I removed and replaced everything that had been covered in the information I followed. Upon restart laughed and cried because now the entire picture is tinted pink, no white to enjoy any longer... any thoughts on a solution or direction? Thanks in advance!
Hi, it sounds like polarisers are out of place, or did you try to wipe output (last polariser?) they should be also adjustable input polarisers. Maybe you moved them out of alignment, it sounds minor to me tho. Have a look at a video I did about polarisers, maybe that will help: czcams.com/video/fs33vNyR0M0/video.html
@@MaxELECTRONICS I first would like to say THANK YOU so much for the quick response Max, I love your work and you are a true true talent!! I watched your video regarding the polarizers and it is "over and above" all else for detail and simplicity in the same presentation, incredible. When I had my projector apart I never took the engine apart where I would have moved any of the polarizers, at least I don't think I could have. All of the work I did was in and around the large multi lens and the aligning glass. I had mentioned the projector was showing red on the left and blue on the right vertical margins. The information suggested that the multi lens / aligning glass were the contributors so I went after that as my solution. The information I read had said that the one of these lenses had moved and was causing the problem, the fix was to basically make sure they were firmly seated. I did that and the metal plate attached to the aligning lens broke free. I wish I had watched this video first, I see you warned against the use of crazy glue, its what I used to reattach the metal plate to the aligning glass. Now that the entire screen has lost its white value and turned pink is it still pointing you to the polarizer or is the CRAZY GLUE contributing to my crazy nightmare? I also noticed when you removed the aligning lens that the metal plate was facing the lamp, Is that the correct orientation, if it is I may have mine backward and I assume that could be a nightmare of my own creation, either way I'm taking it apart again to have a look. You're definitely the best, I can't imagine how many people you've helped but your followers are truly thankful, thank you so much!!!
How pink is it? I’m thinking maybe you have the “cinema” filter jammed ? It’s right next to the iris. Because that can give you pinkish tint. Also you can remove the lamp, and while shining bright torch where the lamp suppose to shine look at the engine output before the yoke, stick a piece of white paper between the yoke and engine and have a look if red is shining properly through to the yoke and then repeat with other 2 colours, you NEED TO HAVE PROJECTOR OFF to do this procedure, this will confirm that red green and blue are shining straight into the yoke
Also in regards to the bands on side of the screen if the multi eye lens didn’t fix it you can adjust the mirrors inside the engine using a torch technique that I’ve explained in optics engine video
@@MaxELECTRONICS You continue to impress Max. The 3020 doesn't have the cinema screen so we can rule that out. As for the pink, it makes watching very unenjoyable - watching the Olympics with pink snow, pink ice, so yes, its pink enough, anything white is now pink lol. Thanks for the additional tips to test the light throughput. I'll let you know what I find when I get back to it today. THANK YOU!
Hello I'm using EPSON eh-tw3600 projector and I'm inquiring. I use it by fixing it to the ceiling and the fan makes a rattling sound for a few minutes when it's first started. I suspect it's a fan problem, so can I know which fan goes into that projector? (Fan model name) ⬇️ my problem video czcams.com/video/VAVRG0zEcm8/video.htmlsi=Ebexba2BrEqvtjkZ
I've got a pretty crazy repair story here you probably won't believe. Have an Epson Powerlite 8350... 9 years old, 450 hours... for a while it would start up with some loud clicking sounds, other times it would click and wouldn't start up, fans would boot and it would try to start up but then shut down with both red lights blinking. Had it apart to try to clean autoiris; moved the gears freely with a long screwdriver without disassembling them and they looked clean and greased. Also pulled out the sliding 'filter' (motorized) and sprayed into the limit switches with contact cleaner. Put it back together and no more clicking sound but it would still shut down with both lights blinking after several seconds prior to the lamp turning on. Finally out of frustration I thought well maybe there is something "stuck" that won't move for bootup so I shook it (like a paint can) while it was booting and it booted up! It has started up perfectly now several times since (without shaking). Can't explain it but I'm really hoping it works for a few more years!!! So I'm guessing it might have had something to do with the motorized lens filter or a fan motor that was stuck. Something mechanical.
Oops, on further testing I now know that my Red colors are completely missing from the picture. Blues and yellows are there good and bright. Suspect it might be a cable connector problem with the Red LCD. This didn't cause a fault code and it boots up fine, just effected the picture which is otherwise good (focused and no streaks etc)
Yes that sounds like ribbon cable on lcd, try unplugging it and plugging it back in, sometimes they just miss align with pins on not plugged in far enough
@@MaxELECTRONICS Exactly, my red ribbon cable end wasn't fully seated and 'locked' at the circuit board. Projector's working perfect now! Fingers crossed.
Thanks a lot for this! I successfully cleaned dusty lcd panels on my tw3200 with the help of this video.
Great video. very well explained. good Job mate. I had epson 8345 projectector I had it for almost 8 years now and it seems like half of the screen has a some sort of bugs flicker. lack of term for the problem
Awesome videos, I think I have a burned polarizer too. Damn hard to find any replacement parts.
Try AliExpress, search for “output polariser”
Hi max. Great video! You are really knowledgeable and I admire your ability to explain.
I've got an Epson tw6100 which is faulty, showing a brighter horizontal line just below the middle with the lower part being red in tone.
I'm curious if this could be symptoms of a bad polerizer. Not sure how to share an image of the issue without CZcams removing my comment.
Thanks for your help.
- Simon
You can send the image to the email, maxchristensenau@gmail.com
@@MaxELECTRONICS thanks friend, I've just sent you the image 👍
Hello, I have a projector just like yours, this one and the EPSON POWER LITE HOME CINEMA 9500UB. There was a problem with the LCD panels, I had to remove them. A friend of mine offered me the Panasonic PT-ae 3000 panels, which according to him could work on my Epson since the panel codes are the same. As you are a technician, I need to know if replacing the Epson panels with the Panasonic panels would work.
If they’re same model number then yes but you won’t be able to put it back together because the convergence will be off and there’s no way to align it at home, usually you’d replace whole yoke. You should never separate lcd panels from the prism.
Thanks for the reply buddy. The LCDs on my Epson have the following codes: blue LCD L3C07U-85G11, green LCD L3C07U-86G11, red LCD L3C07u-85G11. Panasonic panels are: blue LCD L3C07U-86G11, green LCD L3C07U-85G11, red LCD L3C07U-86G11. Can you let me know if I can replace these panels, i.e. if the Panasonic panels will work on my Epson
Yes they will but you won’t be align them, your convergence will be off no matter what you do.
Yes, I know that. However I will buy the complete optical block with the three LCDs already aligned and glued to the prism. It was taken from a Panasonic projector without concert
@cinecastrocastro8412 that’ll work just make sure that the yoke will mechanically fit into your projector
Спасибо за познавательное видео! Хороший специалист!!!
Hello friend! I have a Panasonic Pt ae 4000u projector, when it turns on it only turns on the light without generating an image. So I turn it off and after a few moments I turn it on again, then it turns on normally generating an image. Could this be a video card issue or an internal source issue
Check the ribbon cables that connect to the lcd panels, check bus voltages on boards, and all voltage regulators
Hi really great fix-tutorial, thnx.
I was wandering if you could share a little bit of your knowledge, and help me out with my projector.
I have an Epson Powerlite 730HD, and the whole image is blue tinted...I can see the red and I guess some green too, but the main colour is blue.
Could it be the polarizer?
Or its something else?
Sounds like an lcd panel, check that no optics is loose and nothing unglued. If everything is in place check the connection to the lcd panels. Try displaying black text on red then black on blue and black on green , see what one doesn’t show up
Dear Max, I'm just a little bit confused, the green tint is caused by the green polarizer, and what you cut out is the blue polarizer, so the green polarizer can be replaced with the blue one? I remeber for the output polarizer, it must be same color polarizer can be replaced? thanks very much
Hi, yes green tint when the screen is suppose to be black is caused by green input polariser , it just needs to be adjusted (tilted right or left) until tint disappears and spleen becomes black, (that only if the green tint you seeing is even through the whole screen) if it’s only green in some places then it’s your output polariser.
In some projectors green and blue are the same output polariser type, but in some projectors green output must be replaced with another green one. You could always install the blue polariser in place of green and see if the colours change, if they don’t change then you can use blue one in place of green.
Hi Max. great video. any chance you could show how to actually take the top off? I have tw3200 and dust inside of the lens, it got real bad over the years. Any chance you could show that too?
Greetings Max and thank you for this great video. I just bought this same model second hand and the focus ring is really tight, maybe stuck. Id like to ask for your advice for the proper way to handle it since I don’t want to force it and I can’t figure out what could be keeping it tight. The zoom ring works smoothly though. Thank you!
You can pull it apart and remove just the lens, it should be obvious what’s the problem once you get the lens out.
hola castillo tengo un EPSON EH-TW6700 parpadea la luz azul pero no da claridad a la lampara pero tampoco da falla de lampara ni de
hi have epson hc-8350= two red light blinkin but no picture lamp & temp lights are blinking can any one have idea whates going on how can i fix it ?????
Hi, try checking that all temperature sensors with multimeter, check all Fans and ensure they are okay, also check the iris and X.V colour filter make sure they can move freely and not stuck.
My comment / question seems to have disappeared…
I was asking where to find input-output polarisers. Now saw you said AliExpress no matter the projector’s brand. Can we find all polarisers (red blue yellow) ? Think there are 8 of them in there…
Hi, yes CZcams seems to remove random comments, I never delete any comments regardless if they positive or negative.
I only dealt with green ones, as they usually the ones that burn out, but yes, AliExpress is where I buy them.
Hi Max, Thanks for demystifying the projector's optical system, as I have never worked on a projector before. I purchased a second-hand faulty Epsom TW- 6000W that has an error showing the temp and lamp indicators flashing red. I have tested the temp sensors, and most of the fans spin with 12V applied. There are two fans, which are Toshiba SF84M12-51AP, that don't spin with 12V. I could not find a datasheet on these. Should they spin with just 12V, or do they need a PWM signal to spin?
If they 2 or 3 wire, then they should spin with 12v if they’re 4 wire then you need pwm.
Thank Max for the prompt response. What else would you suggest I should look for to solve the lamp and temp error lights. Also, after seeing you video I looked at the polarisers and noticed the one for green was on an angle unlike R and B which are parallel to the lcds, is this normal?
Kind regards
Anthony
@anthonydebono8700 check that all thermistors and thermal cut outs are okay, check that all fans are spinning, make sure bulb is good. Are you talking about input or output polariser ?
Hi Max. The angled polariser is right in front of the green LCD.
Also, when the lamp and temp error is indicated, it is at the moment the lamp comes on. Does this mean the lamp is the issue? I know the previous owner had the lamp ballast board replaced.
Thanks in advance
@anthonydebono8700 it’s hard to tell with the lamp, you can strike the lamp by shorting out the optocoupler and see it it ignites property, but use extreme caution, there are very high voltages in that ballast, as for polariser, if it’s not loose then it’s probably suppose to be on the angle.
Just curious I have a power lite 8100 and I am getting just a little blurring at the to and bottom of my picture with a slight hint of pink any thoughts? Could this be my bulb or dirt inside. I did clean my outer lens any help would be appreciated.
It’s possible that there’s mirrors in the engine that are misaligned, check that all optics inside the engine is properly in place and not loose
Thank you for the reply
I have an Epson Home Cinema 760HD projector that I bought as a renewed (refurbished) item from Amazon. I wasn't using it right away, but I did open it up to test it out and it came on and projected the blue screen and menu just fine, so I put it away until using it for a gig. After I got to the gig and got it hooked up, the picture and even the menu kept cutting out and coming back on. I eventually figured out that it only did this when a video source was hooked up. I tried changing from the HDMI input to the composite input and it did the same thing, but as soon as I disconnected the video input signal then the menu and all stayed on fine. Unfortunately, I discovered this just 3 days past the warranty period ended.
Any ideas on what could be causing this and is it fixable? What part(s) would I likely need to check/replace?
I’d check power supply to make sure all output rails have correct voltages under load, specially try capturing moment the screen disappears, oscilloscope would be best tool, if there’s a dip in power when projector plays up, then you know there’s a problem with power supply under load conditions, could be old capacitor.
@@MaxELECTRONICS I don't have an Oscilloscope. Just a cheap volt meter. I'll give it a try and see what I can find.
Thanks for the help.
Very good video, thanks! I'm pretty sure now that my Panasonic has a problem with one or more of the out polarizer.. There is a mark on the right side of the image, the picture look more orange in this aera. And the other side the image looks more blue. This is not uniform, so I think the polarizers are burned. When a buy the projector, the filter was really dirty, the lack of cooling maybe cause the problem. I have already check the input polarizers and it seems to be good. I have also cleaned all the lenses and the mirrors, but the marks are stile here.
Can I try to put other out polarizers from a different 3-lcd projector (with corresponding colors) ?
The input and output polarizer can be swapped?
Thank you a lot for all your help and your videos 👍🙂
Yep sounds like out polarizers
@@MaxELECTRONICS all right, thanks 🙂 I will try to replace them with those of a another brand projector. They are both .87" lcd panel, I hope they will fit in.
Thanks very much for your excellent video which has helped me identify a burnt out green out polarizer in my Epson projector. One question: what type of glue would you recommend for repostioning the new polarizer? I guess it needs to be something that withstands the heat in the light engine.
Thank you for your comment, I usually use silicone, it works really well with high temperatures, same goes for the car, for example I usually silicone dash cam to the windshield, in australia during summer cars get extremely hot and everything falls off but silicone, so I used silicone in my projectors amd it works great.
@@MaxELECTRONICS Thank you very much!
@@MaxELECTRONICS Any specific type of silicone? Don't really know what type I should be looking for
Look for non-acidic type, any will do just non acidic
@@MaxELECTRONICS Thank you! I'm getting a polarizer delivered and this video is a massive help
Hi, Thanks for the good tutorial, My question is about a lens (exact name I do not know) At 5.53 min of this video it is very visible It is the vertically laminated square lens in front of the green xv color filter you just activated. The lens I assume is a diffractor of some sort. It is a non-replaceable part I understand. Can it be removed and still work, ok? As soon as I get some parts in the mail I will test. Mine is burnt, delaminated and the glue is browninsh. Yes very late to the party here.
You can buy a replacement lens, AliExpress would have them, that lens spreads the lights evenly through light guides. You’ll loose all brightness if you remove it
Hey, I have two Epson 8100s cinemalite with same failure: distortion/smudging of colors in center of image only. The periphery of image is good. Any pointers, please!
Yes, it’s your output polariser. Probably green or blue. I have a video on my channel “polarisers explained” watch this video where I explain how to fix this issue
Thanks for the great video! Just curious where do you get the polarizer from? Can you just take a generic polarizing lens and cut it to size?
No, you need colour-specific polarizer, you can search eBay or AliExpress for key words like: “Green OUT polarizer projector”. They have them on eBay & AliExpress
@@MaxELECTRONICSis the green one suitable for the blue and red channels too? Thanks
@nakamichi680 no, red one is dedicated, but green and blue can be swapped in some cases but not always
Hi, recently I change my epson 8350 red LCD panel after that I got double image pink and white (not clear image) convergence issue. Please help me how to alignment the LCD panel
Hi it’s almost impossible to do at home, you’d need to get the yoke (lcd assembly) out of the projector, connect it to the main board with extension ribbon cables and display any alignment image on them, then using a microscope you can align them
Hi there!My eh tw 5000 video projector stays on for 4 seconds and then switches off. No temperature light and lamp on.Kind regards
It could be variety of things, do any lights flash when it’s switches off?
Thank you for this great video. I've got a question concerning the two red lights flashing. I have the same issue which startet some days ago while running the projector for a couple of minutes. Bulb turned off, plus both red lights fashing. Afterwards I was able to watch about half an hour with no issues. Then again the same problem. I exchaned the bulb but nothing changed. Now it's exactly like in your video at about min 12. The bulb lights up, runs a couple of seconds and turns off again. When you say the problem is either the shutter or the cinema filter, do you mean the red flashing lights point directly to these tow possibilities or might there be any other reasons. thanks in advance!
Try turning “auto iris” to off, if the problem continues then it must be one of the temperature sensors are faulty, also check that fans are clean and no dirt is built up in vents
@@MaxELECTRONICS Thanks for the quick reply. Is there a chance to get into the menu to turn auto iris off without the bulb lighting up?
Maybe send a command over the rs232, but check for other things first that I’ve mentioned before
@@MaxELECTRONICS Thanks again for the reply. I figured out that auto iris is not activated so this might not cause the problem. I noticed the behaviour that when I didn't try to start the projector for 24 hrs. then it starts correct and runs for about a min till it shuts down to the error mode. when I try to start it again then it's the behaviour as yours in the video (bulb lights up and shuts down after a few seconds). After several times trying to start it doesn't even try to light the bulb. Does this behaviour lead to a certain point where I should start looking for faults? Thanks in advance.
It could be faulty thermal sensor, if it runs for a minute and then shuts down, also check for any abnormal looking electrolytic capacitors on any of the boards, they look ether with slightly raised top or they’ll look chubby compare to good ones or they’ll have some brownish residue around them
Hello Max,
I swaped 2 lcd panels to troubleshoot (on the tw2900) but i didn't know that there were aligned, do you know how i can aligned them ?
Unfortunately that’s almost impossible. Like I mentioned in the video, whatever you do, do not remove the lcd panels, as it would cause convergence problems, you could try getting the whole engine out and shine very bright torch in place of lamp, then block one colour with cardboard and using the white projection on the wall from the torch try aligning the pixels, you won’t get it 100% but at list it’s better then nothing. The pixels should be just visible.
Also check out this video on optical engine and how to identify problems: czcams.com/video/fs33vNyR0M0/video.html
Hi sir can you teach me how to adjust the fucos lens. ?? The image of my 3200 it's blur
I really appreciate this video, thank you! I’m currently troubleshooting the North American version of this (PowerLite 8500), but looks extremely similar. Could I get the diagram you drew of the ballast communication connector? Mine is making the lamp come on dimly then shutting off, but on occasion lighting up fully. It may try to start up to 3 times before failing. Only the lamp LED blinks though on failure. I have tried two different bulbs and both can work but both will fail too. Am I right to suspect the ballast? Thank you!
Hitachi PJ-TX10 Projector, display shows watermark image of any previously watched video, what is solution please??? even have reset every setting menu of the projector but problem persist.
Probably needs new lcds
@@MaxELECTRONICS i am study onto this case with ease of rest.
Hi Max, this is a great video very in depth. Is there any way to realign the LCD panels once removed? I did that on an epson tw-6000 and the convergence as you said is like 3D😂
It’s a nightmare to realign lcds, i made a mistake taking them off ones, what I did is I used a very bright torch and shine is through the engine, then I used blue tag and held lcds to the assy with it, then. I’ve attached Center lcd properly, and use it as a reference, and slowly I’d push side lcd bit by bit amd run up to a faint focused white rectangular projected on the wall from the torch and see if needed more adjustment, it’s a nightmare and frustrating. Once 2 lcds aligned close enough I use a drop of glue to set in place, so there’s no easy way to align them.
@@MaxELECTRONICS Thanks for the information. I just gave it a shot and i am confused by shining the torch through the light engine? I have a strong torch but nothing comes through the lens, i removed the optical lcd assembly and put the torch through each lcd then i had a rectangle on the wall of each colour but i still cant work out how to align by putting the torch in the same place as the lamp would sit to get a rectangle on the wall? Can i remove the lens to align or does that need to stay fitted as well thanks in advance
You need to do it in the dark, I used HID torch, make sure your shutter is open and light shines through optical engine, you will see faint screen on the wall and you’ll see the lcds out of alignment
@@MaxELECTRONICS I have the same problem with misaligned colors on an epson hc2000 :/
I'm going to try to do what you say, I thought about it but I don't have the courage to do it
great video greetings
Thank
Hi Max, Thanks for the video - I don't suppose you have a spare mainboard (bottom one) for a EH-TW4500? I have broken the connector for the Green LCD on the board and I think the easiest repair is to get a new board! Please let me know!
Unfortunately I don’t, but you can buy spare connectors on ebay or AliExpress
@@MaxELECTRONICS Thanks so much for replying! I have tried to look but can't identify the correct one! I don't suppose you know the actual connector name or part number etc? I can do the repair if I had the connector! Thanks so much.
They called FFC/FPC connector, you can find them on ebay, you just have to count how many pins, and measure pitch. Here’s link with example:
www.ebay.com.au/itm/295220293017?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-154756-20017-0&ssspo=hso6y7cpsw2&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=D1OZOxU5QAG&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
@@MaxELECTRONICS Thanks SO much!
Subbed, very awesome and valuable info. Besides the color of the polarizer, are there any other special attributes? For example, I found a nice Sony That I am sure has a bad blue polarizer but the replacement part from Sony is extremely expensive can I just pick up a generic one and if so what is needed to know about the one that was in the device? I want to make sure it is compatible and high-quality
You’ll need to determine what polarizer has gone bad. IN or Out polarizer, then you can get one from eBay or AliExpress, they usually sell them as a piece of film that you stick to original piece of glass, (after you peel old polarizer off) there’s a video that I did on “how optical engine works” you can find on my channel, that should help you bit more in understanding polarizers. But any generic polarizer will work or even polarizer from another projector as long as it’s from same colour.
Awesome, thanks. Watching the other one now. I am buying a Sony vw600es for $500 now and screen is very yellow, so I am thinking either blue or green polarizer issues.
From memory yellow means Blue polarizer, if whole screen fully yellow it means ether polarizer completely missing or lcd not working
Ok, thanks a bunch! I am going to test it, if it is evenly yellow, I will walk, If it is blotchy like a polarizer failure, I will get it. Cant imagine a 4K lcd screen being worth it to replace. I believe these also have independent color control boards... so that would probably not be worth it either.
how to buy a new polarizer ?
AliExpress is the best bet
@@MaxELECTRONICS i can't find front polarized light blue - EPSON EH TW5200
Try them:
www.ed-service.com/
Hi Max, I have an epson 3020 that was producing red and blue bands on the screen, seems to be fairly common without much information developed or shared to date. Found one that suggested a filter was out of alignment/loose after the iris control. I removed and replaced everything that had been covered in the information I followed. Upon restart laughed and cried because now the entire picture is tinted pink, no white to enjoy any longer... any thoughts on a solution or direction? Thanks in advance!
Hi, it sounds like polarisers are out of place, or did you try to wipe output (last polariser?) they should be also adjustable input polarisers. Maybe you moved them out of alignment, it sounds minor to me tho. Have a look at a video I did about polarisers, maybe that will help: czcams.com/video/fs33vNyR0M0/video.html
@@MaxELECTRONICS I first would like to say THANK YOU so much for the quick response Max, I love your work and you are a true true talent!!
I watched your video regarding the polarizers and it is "over and above" all else for detail and simplicity in the same presentation, incredible.
When I had my projector apart I never took the engine apart where I would have moved any of the polarizers, at least I don't think I could have. All of the work I did was in and around the large multi lens and the aligning glass. I had mentioned the projector was showing red on the left and blue on the right vertical margins. The information suggested that the multi lens / aligning glass were the contributors so I went after that as my solution. The information I read had said that the one of these lenses had moved and was causing the problem, the fix was to basically make sure they were firmly seated. I did that and the metal plate attached to the aligning lens broke free. I wish I had watched this video first, I see you warned against the use of crazy glue, its what I used to reattach the metal plate to the aligning glass. Now that the entire screen has lost its white value and turned pink is it still pointing you to the polarizer or is the CRAZY GLUE contributing to my crazy nightmare? I also noticed when you removed the aligning lens that the metal plate was facing the lamp, Is that the correct orientation, if it is I may have mine backward and I assume that could be a nightmare of my own creation, either way I'm taking it apart again to have a look. You're definitely the best, I can't imagine how many people you've helped but your followers are truly thankful, thank you so much!!!
How pink is it? I’m thinking maybe you have the “cinema” filter jammed ? It’s right next to the iris. Because that can give you pinkish tint. Also you can remove the lamp, and while shining bright torch where the lamp suppose to shine look at the engine output before the yoke, stick a piece of white paper between the yoke and engine and have a look if red is shining properly through to the yoke and then repeat with other 2 colours, you NEED TO HAVE PROJECTOR OFF to do this procedure, this will confirm that red green and blue are shining straight into the yoke
Also in regards to the bands on side of the screen if the multi eye lens didn’t fix it you can adjust the mirrors inside the engine using a torch technique that I’ve explained in optics engine video
@@MaxELECTRONICS You continue to impress Max. The 3020 doesn't have the cinema screen so we can rule that out. As for the pink, it makes watching very unenjoyable - watching the Olympics with pink snow, pink ice, so yes, its pink enough, anything white is now pink lol. Thanks for the additional tips to test the light throughput. I'll let you know what I find when I get back to it today. THANK YOU!
Hello I'm using EPSON eh-tw3600 projector and I'm inquiring. I use it by fixing it to the ceiling and the fan makes a rattling sound for a few minutes when it's first started. I suspect it's a fan problem, so can I know which fan goes into that projector? (Fan model name)
⬇️ my problem video
czcams.com/video/VAVRG0zEcm8/video.htmlsi=Ebexba2BrEqvtjkZ
Hi, you need to open up and have a look, there’s few different fans and blowers inside