MY CAMP. YOUR VIDEOS are by far THE BEST vintage audio restoration documents ANYWHERE. The Carver and Pioneer are especially excellent. Thank You for your time..., a most valuable resource none of us has enough of!!
I've been watching your channel for a while now and always get excited when there is a notification for a new vid. Your format is perfectly fine no matter which directions you take. Your style of showing your techniques of doing things is your trademark. All I can say is thank you for taking time out of your busy day to share your love for this hobby with us.
I find your channel to be like a friendly and sharing one that not only brings light to many electronic issues, but also has a calming and ’true’ feel to it. It is simply my favorite channel and I am grateful for your work. 👏
xraytonyb The videos and the mixture is absolutely OK. It is your channel, it is you who decide how to do it. If someone doesn't want to see one video there's always the "next track" button that can be hit. In fact I like to see virtually any step in restauration as it is always of interest how others would do things. I always can learn when seeing things being done different way. Sometimes I agree that this way would be better to do things, sometimes my own way is better or more effective for me. But it is always good thing to see different approaches and rethink the own procedures. Tony, you're having great channel and I very much wished I could learn more from you instead of making my own mistakes. ;-)
As a person who used to restore these old boat anchors for folks all over the country about 20 years ago - my hat’s off to you! Great work and good content! I don’t miss it too much (shipping was the worst part).
I like the way you shoot your videos. Improperly cleaning a PCB can result in damage and while some may be doing it correctly, others are not and I have seen some of their handiwork. They can fast forward if they don't want to see it. Also, you are spending a great deal of time adding these segments to your videos and it should be noted that many of us, regardless of skill level, appreciate the extra time you take to provide this information. I don't know everything and neither does anyone else. The free exchange of information is how things improve. So, thank you. And this is a great restoration. I find myself staring at the screen more than down my scope and getting any work done.
Tony, if you did a video on watching paint dry, I'll water it would still be one of the best things going to watch, and I'd be watching it end to end. Thanks - your videos are always great! Keep making Tony happy and all will be perfect.
GREAT JOB i love to see those detail so to me a long video its a new learning experience perhaps most of the people who watch your channel agree in the nice work and effort you put in every new material, keep doing what you feel is right and enjoyable to your life i personally love your work
UPDATE TO THIS POWER SUPPLY BOARD: I just purchased the same power supply. The latest version is updated and includes a path for the original 1&2 wires to open the coil of the seal-in relay. It works very well. I bought the pre-finished option and the quality is top notch. Voltages are dead steady and stay much cooler than the original. Thanks Tony for making this in-depth video!
I've been following along with the repair on this receiver, and have to say I find it really fascinating. A lot of the schematic/circuit info is a bit over my head, but I'm enjoying it none the less. I love the idea of the custom replacement power supply board. It kind of reminds me of swapping a modern engine in a classic car.
Hey do what you want to do on your videos , it’s not like your forcing anyone to watch, whatever works best for you , I think it’s great of you to share your techniques and ideas with others always very interesting to me 👍
Coming along nicely. Don't ya love it when you install something in backwards and have to rework? Leaving a connection off my amp project resulted in extra diagnostic time. Luckily it didn't go Bang!
@@1959Berre Tony sure has good tips for the rare times I get something to fix. Actually, I've put in a few hours on the amp project. Still trying to make an amp, not an oscillator!
Great Mod! This AMP/RECEIVER has an audio output of 270 Watts Per channell @ 8Ohms. Big-Balls Pwr! Tony's work is second to none, I'm always learning something from his repairs and rebuilds.
Hi x-ray Tony. You can't believe how much these videos are appreciated. I wish you could test out my sx1980. I'm afraid to let just anybody mess with it. I may get a golden screwdriver and fly in on it. (Just kidding) It is working but I'm sure it could use some updates. That new power supply looks like a good idea. Again, thanks for taking the time and effort to provide these videos.
For pins like those on the Molex coonectors at 19:00 I just use a pencil, you know the one with a rubber eraser on the end. I make a little hole in the center of the rubber eraser, and pushes it down on the pin, and then I rotate it on the pin a little. The I wipe the pin down with IPA. Cleans it just wonderfully.
@@xraytonyb Thats how I do it too, you can also use a bit of D5 as well and then slip the pencil over the pin and spin it up some...makes them look like new.
I've found that the iso-Propyl alcohol a very good solvent for soldering flux, and helps to show a 'dry' or crystalline solder joint, which is readily repaired. I once experienced electrolyte leakage from power supply capacitors, on to the main board, which caused several of the fusible resistors in the power stage to fail. After repeated cleaning with iso-Propyl alcohol, managed to get the board clean enough (non conductive) to replace the faulty components... It took many hours, but necessary for a reliable fix.. I get a feeling we are much on the 'same page' with cleaning for electronics..
perfect videos! we are always learning new stuffs through your projects, appreciate your explanations and comments as the electronics comes alive and becomes easy to comprehend.. better too much than not enough... I would say Guru..(Y)
That is one nice receiver. It sure looks very powerful. Awesome work in the restoration process. Thanks for the great content and great work. See you in the next one.
I am sure everybody who has fitted these boards has had that issue with the "latching" of the power, it will be interesting to see what the story is with the guys that make the boards, and what their intended solution is......Nice catch!!
Hi great video Tony thank you! At 22:25 you could lap those surfaces and make them do much better contact, it is hard work but it has been done so just to make you aware of it. Keep up the great content!
Tony, I kind of like your style of videos. It's a nice balance between, say, Terry at D-Lab who zips right through and Paul Carlson who shows you every single detail. Both are fine, it's just how they do their videos.
You do too much talking about how much complaining we all do. Or is it you don’t talk about our complaining enough??? Only kidding. You’re doing great, one of the best on YT!
The thing is Tony, if the videos are too short, nothing anyone can do. If the videos are too long , everyone has, as you said, the option to jump or fast forward. You can never expect to please everyone. The fact that you have lots of viewers, to me suggests you must be doing something right.
Hi, Great video series so far!!! One note, I saw you mention that the heat-sink pads were milled slightly rough. It sounded like you believe they should be smooth(er). I would look at it the other way in that the rough surface has MORE surface area for the compound to contact and thus a better heat transfer. I certainly could be wrong about that and would love to hear other opinions. Thanks and keep up the great work!
I can’t imagine how much this restoration cost! I looked up what these receivers are going for on e-Bay and it blows my mind what these go for as is without being restored already. $5-7k! I hope your friend was able to steal this one for as much work as it required.👍🏻
I've only cleaned totally stripped boards (or the underside) with diluted alchohol and an x-acto blade. That seems to work for me. This is an interesting skill set for old board that you want to keep "intact". What about removing that "glue" (gunk) that's used for holding down the caps. I just had a PS (PreAmp) board where that "gunk" ate into a transistor and turned a 10k into a 14Meg ! X-acto to the rescue. I need those tarnish brushes for my old phono connections !
My favorite trick for scratched anodizing - permanent marker... Regardless of the name, it is not permanent. A tiny bit of acetone will remove it, but it hides the ugly scratches. Sure it's not an exact match, not even close in fact, at about 5 ft away though you don't really see it and you don't see the bare aluminum anymore.
PS.. Your videos are indeed long, I'm cool with that though. I don't start one yur vids right before I go to sleep. I pick a time so I can watch the whole thing.
Hi and will start by thanking you for all the great videos ! I was hoping if you could tell me if you have ever covered verifying that earlier stages/transistors are OK when you have failed output transistors. If not would it be possible for you to cover this subject use bare bones equipment (like me ) and what to look out for as to save yourself another run to the electronics shop .Thanks again Ron (Fremantle downunder)
Tony, in regards to cleaners. WD40 makes an “specialist electrical contact cleaner”. It is safe for metal and plastic and leaves no residue.. it is available at Home Depot stores and is quite reasonably priced.
I live on the dark side of the moon. I repaired an early 80s Marrantz 1060. Blown power transistors, leaking transistors, buldged caps..never mind that's amp had powered its way through a ton of party's. I used Zep foaming citrus cleaner, some soft brushes, non chlorinated brake parts cleaner, compressed air... I wouldn't dare do this on anything with a EPROM or CMOS. It worked for this.
The people that are complaining, don't understand how much work it takes...if you don't have Patients this is not a job for you...go take it to a tech, don't try to be one!!!!
I am a little puzzled that all of the voltages on the power supply seem to be more or less proportional to the mains voltage. With all of those zener diodes in the circuit, I would have thought that most of the voltages (at least the lower voltages) would have been fixed by the zeners and be relatively immune to variations in the mains voltage.
Well there I go saying it the way you said it was perfect but at the same time I agree with you but you're doing it how it's supposed to be done and if somebody doesn't like the way it's being done they can kiss whatever but but you're doing it how it's supposed to be done so everybody's going to like half or not half you know who cares you're doing your job you're doing it right love your videos just the way they are long short talking or not talking
Well, u coulda taken a permanent black marker & “ paint “ over the chipped areas carefully several times. Might not look perfect but hides ‘em imperfections pretty good 😋😋
Small chips on the heatsinks can often be made less visible using a black Sharpie and then rubbing a finger across the surface to blend it in. Not perfect but usually more than good enough.
That's a good way to go. I'd never advise painting a heat sink, the point is you want to get the heat dumped into the air as easily as possible, any kind of normal paint would add another layer with unknown heat transfer characteristics to the system. You can't make things better, and you could make it a lot worse.
I have a pioneer sx1080 and I’m trying to find a video on how to repair it. Was working. Then blew a fuse. I replaced it. Still no power so I opened it up and I think the power supply is shot. So looking for some information on repairs or someone who can fix it
A permanent fix would be to have a new PC board design that eliminates both the White wire from the input side of the switch and also pin 27, where the White wire was soldered. Add a new PC trace from the relay contact connecting to Pin 26, and solder the Red wire to pin 26. Done! The relay contact now shorts out the thermal fuse and limiting resistor after power on Soft Start. No need for pin 27, or the White wire. Unless you want pin 27 there for diagnostic purposes, it can be deleted. The fewer solder connections and components, the better off you are!
There are four or five different variants of the SX-1980. Some of them don't have the pins 1&2 connection, which is what this board was designed from. Rick (the designer of the board) is aware of this and is making an updated version to provide for the different versions.
Look for "press pump dispenser" Here's one of many on Amazon: www.amazon.com/uxcell-Alcohol-Pumping-Dispenser-Remover/dp/B07TD7QPCX/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=press+alcohol+dispenser&qid=1564775338&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1
Hey Tony, you didn't say if you told the designer/seller of the replacement power supply board of the latching on problem you experienced and of your solution. It should get back to him so he can either adopt it or put forth his own fix. So, didja tell him? 8-))
@@kev-the-windsurfer. - I had a feeling that was going to be the case. He probably designed the board using one version, unaware there are other(s) until his board hit the field and complaints started coming in.
That's right, those blue encapsulated pots can not be cleaned the way they should. I always toss them out, right away. You don't want to mess with bias settings.
Well done, Tony. Nice troubleshooting of your power switch problem. Please, pay no attention to the ADHD crowd. There's a magic button on their keyboards that they can press when they get impatient, it's called the FF button. If they're really clever they will know that the right-arrow button and/or the mouse can do this function as well. It's tough, however, to put back the details once you take them out and that does those of us who like to learn from your videos a comparative disservice.
To my big surprise you are using a screw driver with a long bare metal rod to set the DC offset and the bias under full power. One small slip can ruin more than one day's work. Been there... I always use plastic trimmers or an insulated screw driver whenever I have to move around components carrying high voltage. BTW, I noticed you still have not installed the insulating nuts on top of those large filter caps. Those puppies are begging for a chance to make some serious fireworks.
Oh yeah, Mr Loose-Ends here again! What was wrong with the power output on one side. You put captions up saying you missed something. Is the answer in the next part or what happened? The only hint I saw was the high DC offset on one channel.
He mounted the transistor assembly the wrong way around and then corrected it. DC offset was adjusted and wouldn't make that sort of difference to level in any case, the problem as suspected was filthy switches...
I've always believe that rubbing alcohol contains oil not water so it doesn't dry out the skin. how come you don't use electrical soap. Is that a safety ceramic cap on the power switch has to be.
Tony I am surprised you are not using a mask. That dust looks very nasty, and disgusting, floating around in the house near your furnace. Do you normally clean these boards in your wood shop using an air compressor? I use compressed air using a compressor with a restricted air flow nozzle. Not here to give my two cents but just curious why not make the nasty part of the job of cleaning these nasty filthy equipment easier and not in the house where family is living.
MY CAMP. YOUR VIDEOS are by far THE BEST vintage audio restoration documents ANYWHERE. The Carver and Pioneer are especially excellent. Thank You for your time..., a most valuable resource none of us has enough of!!
I've been watching your channel for a while now and always get excited when there is a notification for a new vid. Your format is perfectly fine no matter which directions you take. Your style of showing your techniques of doing things is your trademark. All I can say is thank you for taking time out of your busy day to share your love for this hobby with us.
I find your channel to be like a friendly and sharing one that not only brings light to many electronic issues, but also has a calming and ’true’ feel to it. It is simply my favorite channel and I am grateful for your work. 👏
xraytonyb The videos and the mixture is absolutely OK. It is your channel, it is you who decide how to do it. If someone doesn't want to see one video there's always the "next track" button that can be hit. In fact I like to see virtually any step in restauration as it is always of interest how others would do things. I always can learn when seeing things being done different way. Sometimes I agree that this way would be better to do things, sometimes my own way is better or more effective for me. But it is always good thing to see different approaches and rethink the own procedures. Tony, you're having great channel and I very much wished I could learn more from you instead of making my own mistakes. ;-)
You'll never make everyone happy! Love watching others restore units! Gives me a break from all of my projects lol
As a person who used to restore these old boat anchors for folks all over the country about 20 years ago - my hat’s off to you! Great work and good content! I don’t miss it too much (shipping was the worst part).
Dude who cares what other people think you do a great job keep up the good work thumbs up
I like the way you shoot your videos. Improperly cleaning a PCB can result in damage and while some may be doing it correctly, others are not and I have seen some of their handiwork. They can fast forward if they don't want to see it. Also, you are spending a great deal of time adding these segments to your videos and it should be noted that many of us, regardless of skill level, appreciate the extra time you take to provide this information. I don't know everything and neither does anyone else. The free exchange of information is how things improve. So, thank you. And this is a great restoration. I find myself staring at the screen more than down my scope and getting any work done.
Great video... and love watching your older stuff 😂
Tony, if you did a video on watching paint dry, I'll water it would still be one of the best things going to watch, and I'd be watching it end to end. Thanks - your videos are always great! Keep making Tony happy and all will be perfect.
GREAT JOB i love to see those detail so to me a long video its a new learning experience perhaps most of the people who watch your channel agree in the nice work and effort you put in every new material, keep doing what you feel is right and enjoyable to your life i personally love your work
UPDATE TO THIS POWER SUPPLY BOARD: I just purchased the same power supply. The latest version is updated and includes a path for the original 1&2 wires to open the coil of the seal-in relay. It works very well. I bought the pre-finished option and the quality is top notch. Voltages are dead steady and stay much cooler than the original. Thanks Tony for making this in-depth video!
Thanks for the update!
I've been following along with the repair on this receiver, and have to say I find it really fascinating. A lot of the schematic/circuit info is a bit over my head, but I'm enjoying it none the less. I love the idea of the custom replacement power supply board. It kind of reminds me of swapping a modern engine in a classic car.
Hey do what you want to do on your videos , it’s not like your forcing anyone to watch, whatever works best for you , I think it’s great of you to share your techniques and ideas with others always very interesting to me 👍
Coming along nicely. Don't ya love it when you install something in backwards and have to rework? Leaving a connection off my amp project resulted in extra diagnostic time. Luckily it didn't go Bang!
Hi John. Shouldn't you be working on your next amp project video? ;) (Just kiddin', nice to see you hanging around on Tony's channel.)
@@1959Berre Tony sure has good tips for the rare times I get something to fix. Actually, I've put in a few hours on the amp project. Still trying to make an amp, not an oscillator!
I't is awesome you don't have a ego an can open your mind to new thing an are a know it all . We need more like you in this life . Thank You
Great Mod! This AMP/RECEIVER has an audio output of 270 Watts Per channell @ 8Ohms. Big-Balls Pwr! Tony's work is second to none, I'm always learning something from his repairs and rebuilds.
Hi x-ray Tony. You can't believe how much these videos are appreciated. I wish you could test out my sx1980. I'm afraid to let just anybody mess with it. I may get a golden screwdriver and fly in on it. (Just kidding) It is working but I'm sure it could use some updates. That new power supply looks like a good idea. Again, thanks for taking the time and effort to provide these videos.
For pins like those on the Molex coonectors at 19:00 I just use a pencil, you know the one with a rubber eraser on the end.
I make a little hole in the center of the rubber eraser, and pushes it down on the pin, and then I rotate it on the pin a little.
The I wipe the pin down with IPA. Cleans it just wonderfully.
OK, that is a great idea! I will absolutely try that next time. Thanks for sharing!
@@xraytonyb Thats how I do it too, you can also use a bit of D5 as well and then slip the pencil over the pin and spin it up some...makes them look like new.
I've found that the iso-Propyl alcohol a very good solvent for soldering flux, and helps to show a 'dry' or crystalline solder joint, which is readily repaired. I once experienced electrolyte leakage from power supply capacitors, on to the main board, which caused several of the fusible resistors in the power stage to fail. After repeated cleaning with iso-Propyl alcohol, managed to get the board clean enough (non conductive) to replace the faulty components...
It took many hours, but necessary for a reliable fix..
I get a feeling we are much on the 'same page' with cleaning for electronics..
A big thanks on sharing your years and years of experience with cleaning up PCBs much appreciated!!!!
Great job. I love these videos. They inspire me!
I'm just dabbling with electronics and you're very good teacher keep up the good work
perfect videos! we are always learning new stuffs through your projects, appreciate your explanations and comments as the electronics comes alive and becomes easy to comprehend.. better too much than not enough... I would say Guru..(Y)
That is one nice receiver. It sure looks very powerful. Awesome work in the restoration process. Thanks for the great content and great work. See you in the next one.
On the comments! They are your videos. You do what you want. It's YOU Tube!
thanks for taking us along on this journey no wait,I meant Kansas lol
Outstanding. Thank you for posting these great videos.
The doubling up of the power switch contacts us just what Yamaha did on their CR-2020 to give it more current handling! Good call!
I am sure everybody who has fitted these boards has had that issue with the "latching" of the power, it will be interesting to see what the story is with the guys that make the boards, and what their intended solution is......Nice catch!!
Hi great video Tony thank you! At 22:25 you could lap those surfaces and make them do much better contact, it is hard work but it has been done so just to make you aware of it. Keep up the great content!
Tony, I kind of like your style of videos. It's a nice balance between, say, Terry at D-Lab who zips right through and Paul Carlson who shows you every single detail. Both are fine, it's just how they do their videos.
I wont complain about your videos. I like em as is!
Thank you Tony, Enjoyed the video.
You do too much talking about how much complaining we all do. Or is it you don’t talk about our complaining enough??? Only kidding. You’re doing great, one of the best on YT!
The thing is Tony, if the videos are too short, nothing anyone can do. If the videos are too long , everyone has, as you said, the option to jump or fast forward. You can never expect to please everyone. The fact that you have lots of viewers, to me suggests you must be doing something right.
Man I wish I had the time to clean the boards that good. I do this for a living and a quick dry brushing is all they get before replacing components.
Hi, Great video series so far!!! One note, I saw you mention that the heat-sink pads were milled slightly rough. It sounded like you believe they should be smooth(er). I would look at it the other way in that the rough surface has MORE surface area for the compound to contact and thus a better heat transfer. I certainly could be wrong about that and would love to hear other opinions.
Thanks and keep up the great work!
Well done Tony.
Also, My lust for the Pioneer SX 1980 is peaking.
I can’t imagine how much this restoration cost! I looked up what these receivers are going for on e-Bay and it blows my mind what these go for as is without being restored already. $5-7k! I hope your friend was able to steal this one for as much work as it required.👍🏻
i use metal polish on a cotton stick. then clean with ipa and deoxit. sometimes i apply the tiniest amount of dielectric grease to keep it from air.
I've only cleaned totally stripped boards (or the underside) with diluted alchohol and an x-acto blade. That seems to work for me. This is an interesting skill set for old board that you want to keep "intact". What about removing that "glue" (gunk) that's used for holding down the caps. I just had a PS (PreAmp) board where that "gunk" ate into a transistor and turned a 10k into a 14Meg ! X-acto to the rescue. I need those tarnish brushes for my old phono connections !
Perfect Video 👍👍👍👍👍
My favorite trick for scratched anodizing - permanent marker... Regardless of the name, it is not permanent. A tiny bit of acetone will remove it, but it hides the ugly scratches. Sure it's not an exact match, not even close in fact, at about 5 ft away though you don't really see it and you don't see the bare aluminum anymore.
PS.. Your videos are indeed long, I'm cool with that though. I don't start one yur vids right before I go to sleep. I pick a time so I can watch the whole thing.
Hi and will start by thanking you for all the great videos ! I was hoping if you could tell me if you have ever covered verifying that earlier stages/transistors are OK when you have failed output transistors. If not would it be possible for you to cover this subject use bare bones equipment (like me ) and what to look out for as to save yourself another run to the electronics shop .Thanks again
Ron (Fremantle downunder)
Good stuff and Bob’s your uncle !
You can never please everyone in a group
Tony, in regards to cleaners. WD40 makes an “specialist electrical contact cleaner”. It is safe for metal and plastic and leaves no residue.. it is available at Home Depot stores and is quite reasonably priced.
Greetings: Use BLACK permanent marker to cover the heatsink scratches.
I live on the dark side of the moon. I repaired an early 80s Marrantz 1060. Blown power transistors, leaking transistors, buldged caps..never mind that's amp had powered its way through a ton of party's. I used Zep foaming citrus cleaner, some soft brushes, non chlorinated brake parts cleaner, compressed air... I wouldn't dare do this on anything with a EPROM or CMOS. It worked for this.
The people that are complaining, don't understand how much work it takes...if you don't have Patients this is not a job for you...go take it to a tech, don't try to be one!!!!
I am a little puzzled that all of the voltages on the power supply seem to be more or less proportional to the mains voltage. With all of those zener diodes in the circuit, I would have thought that most of the voltages (at least the lower voltages) would have been fixed by the zeners and be relatively immune to variations in the mains voltage.
When, where and what type of conformal coating do you use? Thanks
Well there I go saying it the way you said it was perfect but at the same time I agree with you but you're doing it how it's supposed to be done and if somebody doesn't like the way it's being done they can kiss whatever but but you're doing it how it's supposed to be done so everybody's going to like half or not half you know who cares you're doing your job you're doing it right love your videos just the way they are long short talking or not talking
Well, u coulda taken a permanent black marker & “ paint “ over the chipped areas carefully several times. Might not look perfect but hides ‘em imperfections pretty good 😋😋
Small chips on the heatsinks can often be made less visible using a black Sharpie and then rubbing a finger across the surface to blend it in. Not perfect but usually more than good enough.
Great idea! I think I'l try that one out!
That's a good way to go. I'd never advise painting a heat sink, the point is you want to get the heat dumped into the air as easily as possible, any kind of normal paint would add another layer with unknown heat transfer characteristics to the system. You can't make things better, and you could make it a lot worse.
I have a pioneer sx1080 and I’m trying to find a video on how to repair it. Was working. Then blew a fuse. I replaced it. Still no power so I opened it up and I think the power supply is shot. So looking for some information on repairs or someone who can fix it
my unit been working fine and now clicking on the protection model for a day and now complete mute. how can I fix that? thank you
bias on output?
I DO THINK YOU ARE PERFECT
A permanent fix would be to have a new PC board design that eliminates both the White wire from the input side of the switch and also pin 27, where the White wire was soldered. Add a new PC trace from the relay contact connecting to Pin 26, and solder the Red wire to pin 26. Done! The relay contact now shorts out the thermal fuse and limiting resistor after power on Soft Start. No need for pin 27, or the White wire. Unless you want pin 27 there for diagnostic purposes, it can be deleted. The fewer solder connections and components, the better off you are!
I likes
39:50 - What does the designer of the new power supply board think of this (possible) design flaw?
There are four or five different variants of the SX-1980. Some of them don't have the pins 1&2 connection, which is what this board was designed from. Rick (the designer of the board) is aware of this and is making an updated version to provide for the different versions.
@@xraytonyb
Rick's The Man !!
so are you Tony lol :)
Oh! Dude! What is that medical alcohol dispenser called? I need to order one of those for my alcohol.
Look for "press pump dispenser" Here's one of many on Amazon:
www.amazon.com/uxcell-Alcohol-Pumping-Dispenser-Remover/dp/B07TD7QPCX/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=press+alcohol+dispenser&qid=1564775338&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1
Guys let the Tech do his own thing, if TOSHIBA Power transistors cannot be obtained then SANKEN Power transistors are a suitable replacement.
Hey Tony, you didn't say if you told the designer/seller of the replacement power supply board of the latching on problem you experienced and of your solution. It should get back to him so he can either adopt it or put forth his own fix. So, didja tell him? 8-))
Not yet. When I finish the project, I will reach out to him.
Thanks for watching!
Its been discussed on Audio Karma with the designer...hes done a revision as apparently there are two different versions of the 1980....
@@kev-the-windsurfer. - I had a feeling that was going to be the case. He probably designed the board using one version, unaware there are other(s) until his board hit the field and complaints started coming in.
Haw do you clean the female end
I don't. She would probably slap me if I tried ;)
Man, you need to replace the trimmer pots on the amp boards. The wipers get oxidized over time!
That's right, those blue encapsulated pots can not be cleaned the way they should. I always toss them out, right away. You don't want to mess with bias settings.
Just keep it up Comments are Hey--Our Right No I Am Right On And On And On
Well done, Tony. Nice troubleshooting of your power switch problem. Please, pay no attention to the ADHD crowd. There's a magic button on their keyboards that they can press when they get impatient, it's called the FF button. If they're really clever they will know that the right-arrow button and/or the mouse can do this function as well. It's tough, however, to put back the details once you take them out and that does those of us who like to learn from your videos a comparative disservice.
What is the USB player DAC you have there for the music source? Thx.
just a cheap one I picked up on eBay a few years ago. I think they still sell them.
@@xraytonyb Do you have a make and model for it? thx. I'm looking for a cheap one also.
To my big surprise you are using a screw driver with a long bare metal rod to set the DC offset and the bias under full power. One small slip can ruin more than one day's work. Been there... I always use plastic trimmers or an insulated screw driver whenever I have to move around components carrying high voltage. BTW, I noticed you still have not installed the insulating nuts on top of those large filter caps. Those puppies are begging for a chance to make some serious fireworks.
Nobody cares what you think he should use???..go make your own videos!!!!🤨
Oh yeah, Mr Loose-Ends here again! What was wrong with the power output on one side. You put captions up saying you missed something. Is the answer in the next part or what happened? The only hint I saw was the high DC offset on one channel.
Really dirty switches and controls.
He mounted the transistor assembly the wrong way around and then corrected it. DC offset was adjusted and wouldn't make that sort of difference to level in any case, the problem as suspected was filthy switches...
I've always believe that rubbing alcohol contains oil not water so it doesn't dry out the skin. how come you don't use electrical soap.
Is that a safety ceramic cap on the power switch has to be.
It has no oil. The label shows it.
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Tony I am surprised you are not using a mask. That dust looks very nasty, and disgusting, floating around in the house near your furnace. Do you normally clean these boards in your wood shop using an air compressor? I use compressed air using a compressor with a restricted air flow nozzle. Not here to give my two cents but just curious why not make the nasty part of the job of cleaning these nasty filthy equipment easier and not in the house where family is living.