THE SECRET TO NINJA SKILLS SIT 8C/8C+ | Martin Keller First Ascent!
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- čas přidán 25. 08. 2024
- How far does your perseverance stretch? Three years of effort, over 150 sessions, -6ºC in 50cm of snow, all-night 12 hour sessions, then 25ºC in July... Ninja Skills Sit Down Start was Martin Keller's ultimate nemesis. In this short film, join Martin on his journey as he discovers the secret to unlocking his first ascent of Ninja Skills 8C/8C+ (V15/V16)
Nestled in between chestnut trees on a south facing slope in Sobrio, Switzerland, the 8B+ (V14) stand start for the famous Ninja Skills was first climbed in 2009 by Nalle Hukkataival.
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Follow Martin Keller on his Instagram: @swizzybouldering
Based in Sheffield, UK, Moon Climbing is dedicated to developing and producing high-quality, durable climbing clothes, accessories and training equipment. Founded in 2002 by professional rock climber, Ben Moon, we are a small team of passionate individuals with a lifelong love for climbing and the great outdoors. Using our insights and experience, we aim to bring you a core collection of performance climbing kit that you want and feel proud to use.
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hey there; glad most off you you liked the movie :) just one thing to explain; about that „power-screams“. i can understand that some people dont like this! i don’t like it too much neither! therefore here at least an explanation so its more understandable in a context.
sometimes there are more screams, sometimes there are less. sometimes it can be even total silence (ok, may some grunting)
all i can say its (95% off the time) not forced!!! its coming from deep within when i push further then what my mind and body really want to go (at that moment).
the startsequence in ninja is total limit for me physically (absolute limit of my span und power) and mentally (fallen off so many times) - in the endsection i had totally numbed out, therefore my forearms had started to cramp and all my body and mind wanted was to let go! but „i“ wanted to keep going; so that screaming forces my mind and body to push through even though they did not wanted to keep going. it is literally „war“ between my unconscious and concious mind.
that tends to happen especially in long-term (=50+ sessions) projects as you start to know the moves so well your mind is not anymore 100% occupied with climbing and starts to wander (... am i really strong enough today; what if that heel slipps again; that hold felt better last time..) this screaming is in in other language; a (my) coping-strategy to deal with enormous physical and mental stress. thats it - thats all!
try for a few years to push constantly, every few days, at the same piece off rock above your physical and mental limits... let me know how you „deal“ successfuly (so you can use it in your favour for reaching your goal) with that amount off pressure/stress.
man, the scream at the end is the best of the movie..for real, i felt I was there. You really love climbing and you give all you got..and of course there has to be some fight inside to motivate your self in such an epic send. You are a beast .
None of our business, frankly. You’re the one doing it! Keep doing what you need to do and inspiring the rest of us.
It's all about time and place man, and I'd say working the SDS for Ninja Skills is the perfect time and place for some good ol power screams and grunts. You earned it. The gym not so much, maybe some unintentional grunts or a yell or two but I try to be polite with others.
I think we all agree, years-long projects deserve plenty of screaming
Normally i have no problem with screeming, but outoor especially at night i think its not soo nice for the animals in the woods. They wont to sleep or hunt or so. But nice send. 💪
Super inspiring!! Pretty much every climber in Stockholm is going crazy over this epic send!
Can't figure out who is more dedicated, Martin Keller or his wife.
;)
he's wife, from now on she no longer has to participate in cold, wet, ice, middle of the night conditions :P
thanks you for so much positive feedback and it makes me truly happy to see so many people inspired and motivated :) nevertheless i received some concerns about night-climbing and i think its important to address this topic! also to avoid missunderstandings!
please note!!! especially in night sessions; minimize emissions (no music, no fires, not too much light, no forced screaming around, that screaming in the movie just went on and off for two minutes (not forced!!!) and then it was absolutely quiet for an hour or more - and i would have had watched out for this if it would have had been in a sensitive area - which it isn't down there!!! and even though night-climbing is no (legal)-issue in ticino (switzerland) it can be in other climbing-areas. please inform yourself before and always play low key! thanks and keep crushing everybody :)
absolute hypocrite
Martin is a boss, his wife is a saint.
That is dedication of sorts most of us will never know.
@ m hughes; its about decisions (and then committing to it). 99.9% of us can do SO MUCH MORE if we would decide to do so, but 99.9% off the people heavily underestimate what they could be capable off. but it doesn't come for free, dream big, work hard (and smart) and you will get there (eventually)!!!!
I keep rewatching this, to remind myself that one can always go a bit further. Love the power screams by the way ;)
That concept is actually key!!! Just a little bit every time will be a LOT over a year. And HUGE over a decade!!! Compound effect is such a huge concept, yet so many people don't get it! (It's all about slow but continues progressive overload!)
This dude is next level
Pure dedication,man...and I thought he'd tried hard on Der Mit Dem Fels Tanzt and Highlander. But then he steps it up,digs in and gets the goods. This is what hard,limit bouldering is all about; what an inspiring effort. And with a full time job too, I believe. Legend.
thanks caleb :) well actually i try this hard since day one twenty years ago when i started climbing (20years old) with projecting my first 6a (sport) ; .... but i did certainly learn the one or other trick along the way ;)
thats one off the very cool things about climbing; no matter what grade, EVERYBODY can try hard (if they want, its all fine to just enjoy) and make this experiences, learn, grow... :)
not at full time this semester anymore. down to 80%. last semester i was still at 100%. going down was another one off those decisions you make along when you want to commit your goal and realize you need more TIME to be at the right time (conditions) at the rock, for recovery and anyway for the things in life that count for you (relationships). but it doesn't come for free. 20% more time means 20% less $$$. and many people don't want to (they think they can't) "afford" this. but its actually another funny thing that you can "make" it - if you want it - if you DECIDE - you will find a way to make it happen!!! and i work as a teacher, that gives me a way more flexible schedule (IMPORTANT WHEN YOU DO AN OUTDOOR-JOB) then a 9-5job - another DECISION i took 20years ago. the price; no big career (i have a master in business and economics), no big $$$$. but i knew this. i took the decision and it works exactly how i wanted it to ;) and if i can do it, everybody else can do it (in his/her way) as well. just do it - this really sums it up!!!
Those screams of excitement! So cool!
Thanks for the great documentary and sharing this experience.
thank you for sharing your excitement :)
Great video, thanks. Beautiful journey.
My favourite thing about your video is the english voice over and then the "I spür nüt meh" in Swissgerman, absolutly loved it :) Nice send :)
haha, numbing out on those topmoves had been VERY scarry. So grateful for kahterine (my wife) and my good friend giani who shuffled pads for the top moves! I would NOT have dared to to it out otherwise! It's not a hard topout. But whitout pads and you can't feel the the holds it is super dangerous and when you would go down you could seriously injury or kill yourself!!!
Insane! What a great video, nice job Martin!
glad you liked the video!!! :)
Dude is a legend, psyche
Amazing unbelievable effort!
Love this video!! Well done bro!
Congrats Martin!!!
PiniJahs thanks:)
Simply incredible!
Congratulations to you to successfully complete such a hard and longlasting project! I really adore people never loose hope and keep trying. Congratulations also to your wife, I hope now you’re more often at home at nighttime 😉
hehe, thank you franz! its not just hope, its about making decisions and commit to it. the rest then "follows" from itself. its amazing how this works. not just for climbing. generally in life!!!
and nope, we are not more often at home at nighttime ;) but as long as we spend time together and make that time count it doesn't matter where ;)
👌
🧘♂️ namaste!
Fucking great vid, that's exactly what i like about climbing ! Congrats !
Thats beautiful
Grear job Martin!
thank you daniel :)
That is a next level of dedication... Unbelievable. Congratulations man!
Ps
Microbeta philosophy seems to be a puzzleglass films special. Is it copyrighted? ;)
It isn't a puzzleglass film if there is no beta philosophy!
Beautiful.
thank you jacob :)
Fantastic video. You are very inspiring.
Lionel Mommeja thank you lionel :)
Amazing!
thanks joseph :)
That was brilliant!
:)))
grande casino and an amazing boulder
high-ruler ;)
Amazing to watch. Makes me want to climb hard.
nice to see this motivated you :) now go and climb hard!!! thats the amazing thing about climbing; no matter what grade, EVERYBODY can try hard (if they want, its all fine to just enjoy) and make this experiences, learn, grow... :)
Fuck yeah!!!
FUCKING MACHINE!
What a legend. And he sounded like Arnold Schwarzenegger the whole time also
;)
Crush it my man
2 mins of limit bouldering. I am pumped after 7 moves.....
HAHA :) Again, slow progressive overload and you will not get pumped at all!!! And funny thing is you best train for that TOTALLY different then what you usually see as training advice everywhere!!! Also for my latest 8C+ ("Gateway) I was not once really pumped when training for it (and also not when i was sending it)! Key is to keep training in high intensity and not fall into the trap of trashing yourself doing some junk milage :) Hit me up when you want to know some more details!!!
Fuck, tears in my eyes :))
Philipp Lennartz 😜😂
Smart swiss climbing with nice „engineering equipment“ 😄 But if it doesn’t harm and it works...
there is WAY more to the game then just get "stronger" ;)
I thought Adam Ondra screamed alot
this is not on purpose; it just happens when i go beyond what my mind and body want to handle at the moment.. but i like to push them this little bit further ;)
Man, Ondra could learn some things from this guy
I love the persistence, but would this be like a .12 climber projecting .14's? You'd eventually get to the same place, I guess.
Nop it's not, .12 to .14 is a world of difference. This guy can probably do 8b/+ quickly, i'm like him, i like really long projects, it allow you to squeeze out a few grades but you still need the strenght to do the moves.
may.12 to .14 is a bit a huge gap.. (i climbed some boulders in the v15 range before!) but when somebody has just started and has a lot off potential left that will work!!!
in the end its just "training" and when you "train" enough and implement some other beneficial habits you can get there for sure!!! but "somebody" normally don't set their goals high enough, don't have the coping-strategies to deal with "failure" and do not implement the habits and people around them which support the journey to the goal!
@@rochoddo5380 Yeah, but that's him getting close. I'm asking about when he first started on this project, we're talking years. Especially his 13 yr project, that had to be the case.
@@swizzybouldering Yep i agree with you, i myself am a big fan of multi year project (not quite v15 yet, but getting there soon i hope :D). I was just saying his example was a bit to extreme, you can't even keep the positions on something this intense with that big of a gap (unless you were badly underperforming prior to that i guess). Congrats on the send ! One of the best vid i have seen, probably because i relate but damn man i was into it, awesome journey, keep crushing it !
ora sarà un cesso di magnesite!!
🤣
Censorship
Zero inspiration to climb , zzzzz , zzzz , nice lifestyle xx
Zero inspiration to climb
Kein tolles Vorbild. Das Geschrei ist echt Mist. Was sagen dazu die Natur und eventuelle Anwohner.
Not a positive example: shouting is too much. Not good for animals in nature and for people, living nearby.
thanks for your comment. just waited for this kind of comment. its so common these days in the "online-world": feeling entitled to comment (everywhere) without knowing the circumstances
its a pity you are not aware and did not inform yourself about the circumstances and thus not being able to see things in the context!
and why just focus on the negative? there is quite some positive things to find in the movie as well! this tells where you are coming from. feeling really sorry for your negative mindset :(
a short research you might would have find out that:
- its a 45 minute walk to the next houses
- the screaming (at 7pm) lasted for not even two minutes (and was not on purpose)
- in contrast to the 2-minute-screaming you can listen (and sometimes even smell) to the 24/7 noise coming from the highway in the valley below.
- there is a big quarry on the other side, frequent explosions and heavy gear working all day long
- there is quite some flight-traffic (low flying in the valley, planes and helicopters)
- the screaming guy picked up trash from other people in the boulder-area and the climbing-area above (over 150times!!!) and worked together with locals (authorities) to make sure the fire-ban was not broken by climbers. because if not this could close permanent closure of the climbing-area.
i wish you a beautiful evening and maybe you will find something nice about this day - try it - could change your life - to the better :)
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Danke für diesen Kommentar. Ich habe nur darauf gewartet.... Ein "gutes" Beispiel für die heutige "Online-Kommentare-Welt". Einfach mal seine "Meinung" in die Welt hinausposaunen ohne Plan oder Ahnung der Umstände.
Einen kleinen Aspekt herausgreifen und seinen Frust darauf projizieren?! Wie kommt es, dass dir vor allem etwas Negatives auffällt wo es doch auch einiges Positives gäbe? Wenn dein Fokus so stark aufs Negative gerichtet ist, dann möchte ich gar nicht wissen, wie es sonst so für dich den ganzen Tag läuft! I feel very sorry for you!!!
Wie ging der Spruch? Erst denken dann sprechen (schreiben)?! Eine zwei Minuten-Recherche hätte unter anderem folgendes zu Tage gebracht:
- Die nächsten Anwohner sind 45 Minuten Fussmarsch entfernt zu finden.
- Das Geschrei um 19 Uhr war nicht absichtlich sondern nur während der Begehung (weil dieses Mal total am Limit) die zwei Minuten gedauert hat. Ansonsten war es jeweils 24/7 still.
- Im Tal unten (Leventina, Haupttal des Tessins) hat es eine der am stärksten befahrenen Autobahnen der Schweiz, 24 Stunden Abgase und Lärm (der leider auch bis an die Kletterfelsen dringt).
- Gegenüberliegend gibt es einen (von mehreren) Steinbrüchen - regelmässige Sprengungen, schweres Gerät im Dauereinsatz
- Regelmässiger (tieffliegender) Flugverkehr im Tal; Helikopter und Flugschschule in der Nähe mit täglichem Flugbetrieb - mitten durchs Tal!!!
- Der „Schreihals“ und das „schlechte Vorbild“ hat jeweils im Bouldergebiet und im darüber liegenden Klettergebiet Müll zusammen genommen und zuhause entsorgt (über 150mal!!!) und nicht ahnende Kletterer darauf hingewiesen, das Feuer-Verbot (hohe Brandgefahr) zu beachten (unter anderem Öffentlichkeitsarbeit, Plakate, in Zusammenarbeit mit der lokalen Behörde und Anwohnern) welches durch Nichtbeachten einiger kletternder Zeitgenossen eine Schliessung des Klettergebietes nach sich ziehen könnte!
Ich wünsche dir noch einen schönen Abend und vielleicht findest du ja noch irgendwo etwas Schönes an diesem Tag. Versuch es. Könnte dein Leben zum Positiven verändern :)
no he's right! There's so much dedication in your video that it's heart breaking to see you fall so close to the end a couple of times. That dedication and motivation to eventually achieve your long time goal is inspiring to me. Night climbing, screaming etc. still leaves the impression that you wouldn't have cared if circumstances were different. Why not include those circumstances in short in the video? There's ample of videos that have a little "clean your shoes and brush off tick marks" at the end. If you don't include that, the obvious thing for anyone who actually cares is to question your outdoor manners.
I like that you worked together with local authorities and picked up lots of rubbish. It's good you mention that otherwise nobody would have known.
Congrats to a big achievement!
thanks for your comment. BUT if you would have had make the „effort“ to check my instagram-feed and blog you would „know me better“ (there are several posts about „outdoor-etiquette“ etc.).
again PLEASE inform yourself FIRST, then write/speak 🙈.
(btw. nightsession are NO issue in swizzy!)
Sehr geehrter Herr Keller,
Sie haben Recht, ich habe nur einen Teilaspekt des Videos betrachtet. Das tut mir leid und ich verändere dies gleich ein Stück. Ich kritisierte die Vorbildwirkung des Videos: Die allermeisten Leute checken nämlich, genau wie sie schreiben, nicht die Umstände. Welcher, ich finde bedenkliche, Eindruck bleibt denn vielen vom Video: geile Tour, toller Kletterer, rumschreien gehört ganz normal dazu. Und dann gehen die Kletterer auch in anderen Gebieten raus und schreien durch die Gegend. Jäger und Anwohner, die es woanders sehr wohl gibt, freuen sich (Ironie!). Die IG Klettern Frankenjura zum Beispiel kann davon ein Lied singen: Ich kenne etliche Felsen, an denen Rumschreien eben schon ein Problem ist.
Trotzdem Ihnen weiterhin viel Spaß am Fels.
Danke für Ihre klärende Antwort! Ich glaube wir teilen beide die Liebe zum Klettern und der Natur. Ach ich kenne zahlreiche Felsen wo herumschreien ein Problem ist (nicht nur in Franken!). Falls man das Video aus der von Ihnen erwähnten Perspektive betrachtet ist es tatsächlich problematisch. Und wenn man sich anschaut wie "gedankenlos" viele Leute in der Natur unterwegs sind und nicht differenziert denken und handeln (wollen) - offenes Feuer im Tessin wenn es knochentrocken ist - im Speziellen. Darum habe ich auf meinen "Social-Media-Accounts" auch diverse Posts bezüglich "Outdoor-Netiquette" und arbeite auch vor Ort dafür (Reden mit den Leuten, etc.!!!)
(Aber wenn man ein bisschen "weiter denkt" und sich ein wenig informiert, dann denke ich doch, dass der primäre Eindruck des Filmes sicher nicht der ist, dass man mitten in der Nacht möglichst laut herumschreien sollte um gut zu klettern...;)
Trotzdem, ich werde hier noch einen Kommentar schreiben und darauf hinweisen. Auch werde ich schauen ob man in der Beschreibung beim Video oben noch einen Vermerk anhängen kann.
Beste Grüsse (aus Franken!) und auch Ihnen weiterhin viel Spass am Fels :)
I thought Nalle did the first sit down start ascent?
nalle climbed it from a stand!
@@swizzybouldering Thanks! The start was so low for a stand start I didnt notice. Congrats on the ascent!