How to clean your stainless steel revolver like a pro
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- čas přidán 4. 03. 2017
- This video will be longer than most but there is quite a bit of material to cover. Feel free to grab a beverage and relax.
Here is the step by step way that I clean my Ruger GP100. You can use the same steps to clean any revolver except you would not want to use a lead remover cloth on a blued revolver. And nickle plate guns you want to be very careful with your solvent because it can strip the plating off if you leave it on the gun for long periods of time.
To start with I had just cleaned my gun so we need to get it dirty. I do this by firing 72 rounds of ammo through it. 36 105 grn Lee SWC .38 SPL plinking loads and 36 170Grn Keith SWC .357 Magnum Deer Fucker loads. These are all hand cast by me and lubed with a soft homemade lube that is dirty and smoky. I do that because by casting and reloading my own I can get .38 for a nickle a round or $2.50 a box, the .357s work out to $7ish a box because they use more lead and powder each shot.
You will need some basic supplies as I mention in the video.
Patch Jag
Patches
Bore Brush
Spiral Brush
Chamber Brush
Cleaning Rod
Lead Remover Cloth
Solvent (Hoppes 9)
Copper Solvent
Foaming Bore Cleaner
Bore Snake (If you use one)
I like to clean the gun, then remove the burn rings and carbon, then apply new oil to the hammer and trigger. The best part about cleaning your gun thoroughly is if you keep up on it it will be much faster each time you do it and your gun will run better and shoot more accurately.
Proper cleaning is also essential if you use speed loaders so the rounds can drop into the cylinder correctly. It will also remove the ring of crud that makes shooting .357 magnum ammo difficult after shooting .38 special ammo.
If you are using a gun in a different caliber you will need to figure out what brushes are the correct ones for that caliber.
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Great tip on the powder residue getting under the ejector and binding up the cylinder. Had it happen on my 44 special once and I was heart sick until I mentioned it to a counter guy at the range ( at GATS ) He knew right away what the problem was. Man, what a relief!! I'm not a real big revolver guy, and I had no idea what was up. Great info.!
You can also have the screw that holds the ejector star backout inside the cylinder on Rugers. I actually had it happen to my GP100 but it was after it went in for a replacement crane due to damage so I think it might have been loose from that. On smiths and colts the ejector rod itself can back out which can sometimes lock the cylinder up so it will not open unless you screw the rod back in with your fingertips. Once you get it out make sure you properly torque using blocks and a vise or lock tite it.
Facts!!!
I have been using the LEWIS LEAD Remover for sixty plus years now with no complaints as far as a cleaning tool. Works great! Saves time. They come in various calibers.
Great video!! My only advice is to cover your firing pin while running the brushes down the barrel just to avoid any unwanted damage to the firing pin. Cheers!
This is the most informative video I have seen on the subject. Thank you for putting it together.
I'm liking the Stainless steel 4 inch barrel look, on the GP100, I have a blued steel 6 inch model. I have never missed a shot with it. Such a great gun.
Excellent video! I have a new S&W 627 which I just shot for the first time yesterday (my first revolver) and learned several things that will be applicable for when I clean it today. Really like the idea of the bore snake immediately after shooting, the use of foaming agent and the lubing process. Thank you very much sir!
If you keep up on the bore snaking you may find that you don't have to deep clean it all that often if you are just shooting jacketed factory ammo.
Car chase
The Smith will last a lifetime with minimal cleaning, nothing slicks the action like lots of use!
I use ultra bright tooth paste to get the powder burns off the cylinder. Works fast and easy. Use a stiff toothbrush.
Great video and very informative. I have two .357 magnums and use Blue Wonder gel to clean the carbon out of the cylinders and barrel, and also any copper fouling.works great to use with steel wool to remove any rust and carbon rings as well. Excellent product to use as directed an cuts cleaning time to less than 15 minutes for a good cleaning and detailing of your firearms.
Finally someone talked of the powder getting under the star . It can become a big issue... thanks. Good video
CZ 1always. I bought a used Charter Arm's .22mag. For $100bucks, steal Right! It's clean legally too, the young man's Grandfather passed an he knew (from shootin with my son an I ) that I love ALL things revolver an he had no clue of its value, being one of the younger generation that think a revolver is ancient and obsolete.. My ! ortune, his loss... Anyway, I noticed it would get IDK sticky when trying to push the ejector rod out...even wouldn't seat back properly.. I knew from year's of experience with Charter Fire arm's, it was Not the manufacturing of, Brand name of, shoty workmanship, AT ALL! So, I pain stakingly took it apart... Oh God, I never in my life seen so much filthy lead residue, trash, lint,Mcdanolds fries, Burger King Sesame seeds,..... Just kidding about the food. Anyway, it was a nightmare to get it in proper working order. Now it's one of my Favorite's to carry, shoot, keep out on nightstand, behind headboard... 22mag is definitely under rated as a defensive arm.... Same caliber as an AR.... For y'all dimwits, ..shooting a solid copper round designed for the short Barrel revolvers an derringer, it will surprise lots folk's..
Thanks for that. Just back from the range and I cleaned my gun. NO! Not good enough! I took it back out and cleaned under the star.Nasty in there.The rod needed lube as well.
I'm still a rookie.
Also,I didn't know to clean a NEW gun!The preservative is sticky goo and most spent cases got VERY stuck in the cylinder. My bad. The R.O. had to clean it it front of me. Also RWS frangible ammo is not good.Some got stuck after cleaning.Federals worked fine in my 38.
Thank you for this very well made video.
Looks awesome man. Those lead remover cloths are a must have for stainless revolvers.
They really are the fastest and easiest way to get the fouling off.
Cloths do work. There are much less expensive ways to do the same thing.
I agree 1000% high fives UziNineMilomeetah
i saw a vid guy used polish mother got it clean fast and easy
Excellent video - I learned a lot - so glad I found this!
Thanks for watching
Hi really enjoyed you cleaning your gun you taught me a few tricks and I appreciate you did a good job your friend Walter
When I use to shoot often I would shoot lead. Before I left the range I'd ]shoot 6 rounds of FMJ. It helps clean some lead out of the barrel.
You are a real Pro!!! very useful video man!
Thanks for the heads up! Now I know how to clean my new Ruger GP100 revolver.
Thanks for watching, glad you could use the info
I just got my first revolver a 686 357 Mag Plus Deluxe with a 6 " barrel this is an outstanding video now I know what products / tools I need to buy and how to properly clean a stainless steel revolver great job thanks!
Tornado brushes, Hoppes Elite, and elite gun cleaner. Oh man you clean your Ruger GP 100 the same way I clean mine. One recommendation is use the metal care cloth from Pro-Shot as it leaves a film over the gun that takes all the oils from your fingerprints and just gives a stainless gun the extra shine that really looks good. One of my absolute favorite cleaning products for firearms.
Use Lead-Out on the cylinder rings followed by Patch-Out in the bore and Cylinder chambers and rings. Every revolver cylinder I have ever used that stuff on looks like it has literally never been fired. the Lead-Out strips EVERY deposit off and degreases down to the bare metal so reapplying rust protectant to the metal, even stainless, is essential. The dissolved lead is revealed in a grayish white foam that is wiped from the gun with almost no effort. THAT dear son, is how you clean a revolver in 10 minutes to absolutely new condition.
Thank you Chris great detail!
Excellent video man...gave me great tips for cleaning my new Ruger GP100...🧙♂️🦅
Thank you . Your video was very helpful to me.
great video man, learned some stuff
Thanks for watching
Good tips on the basic cleaning of a revolver. I take the extra minute to remove the crane and cylinder before cleaning to avoid tweaking the crane to frame alignment by being too ham fisted with my cleaning tools.
Thanks for the informative video, I learned thing's and thought I was too old to be taught anything firearm... You learn something everyday, if your Lucky...
Bore snakes. Great for dragging dirt from the previous pass through the next one. Like using a dirty bore brush over & over.
you could wash your dirty snake every now and then
they greatly speed up basic maintenance
I use the snake for sp101
and two 9mm
Great video! Great looking thumbnail! Keep up the great work!
Thanks!
All in all, good cleaning tips, I have five revolvers, Smiths, Rugers, and the only revolver Kimber makes, the k6s, all my guns are stainless, I recently tried using CLP, instead of Hoppes, and it seems to work better on getting the lead and dirt off the forcing cone, again thanks
I think the best tip is to keep the gun as clean as possible. It's much easier to clean a small amount of fouling every range trip rather than letting it go and having to work through several layers of crud.
I clean like you do but I never saw that foam cleaner so I will get that. One thing I do is put a rag and my hand behind the forcing cone when I push rod down the barrel to prevent hitting the firing pin. I'd rather it hit my rag covered hand than the firing pin. Great vid.
Good video. Thanks for the information.
Didn't know about the lead cloth. Pretty cool, thx.
Excellent cleaning video with great helpful tips!
Love the content. My only recommendation is that you should consider using video editing software to reduce the load noise produced by the firearm. With that said, I use CLR to clean off the cylinder burn marks for stainless or chrome revolvers (don't use on any other metals). Just make sure to only use it for a few minutes and to use a neutralizer afterwards since it is caustic.
solid video man!
Thanks for watching
GREAT video! Thanks! I generally use Ballistol as my cleaner/lube, but I would like to incorporate the foaming cleaner in my process. Does it conflict with the Ballistol? Which would you use first?
Excellent video. Thanks.
Excellent Video! Thanks
Polishing Ruger's rough chamber walls will ease in extraction, brass life, cleaning, fouling. Cutting a nice accurate 11° forcing cone with a quality reamer also helps. Uniforming the cylinder throats to identical diameters also helps. Rugers need help. haha
Good detailed vid as some good info...Good stuff...
As always thanks for watching
Good stuff, young man. I realize this is not an every day or every use type of cleaning. If you shoot a lot of .38 spl out of a .357 magnum gun, I recommend thorough cleaning more often. I would recommend cutting the Birchwood Casy cloth into smaller pieces. That way you can took them out without over using.
J-B Non-Embedding Bore Cleaning Compound cleans fouling off like you wouldn’t believe and won’t harm the finish. Been using it for 25 years. Own a nickel boron bolt and carrier you just can’t get clean to original finish. Use a dab of jb on a patch and the burnt look disappears. Shits for real, works great
Have you ever used a microfiber cloth sprayed with WD-40 silicone spray to do a final wipe down. That silicone film will not attract dirt as much as a coating of oil will and the fouling will normally wipe right off.
Great video
Few things I learned over the years. Hopes 9 made me nauseous and sick from the fumes, I dread it cleaning my guns, I was being cheap and it was killing me until I did some research and ordered boretech carbon remover, it's about 20 bucks for 16oz But it doesn't smell like chemical at all! In fact i think it's water based. When you wash your hands later it feels like they're soapy. Most important in does amazing job cleaning out the carbon deposits that get burnt on that are so hard to remove. Also I should mention, I had no problem whatsoever shooting magnum loads after 38spl. I shot about 50 magnums and 200-300 38spl reloads reloads and 80 magnum reloads and had cases extract easily. This is when I finally decided to clean it lightly.
The big issue with the .38 before .357 is I'm using soft lubed cast hand loads. if using commercial ammo it's less of an issue.
I'm not that sensitive to chemical smells but there are plenty of great options out there if you are. This is a neat test because the guy actually noted the amount of smell for all these oils.
www.dayattherange.com/?page_id=3667
Smell or no smell Boretech C4 is the best cleaner for carbon build up. Try it, you'll be amazed!
I have used simple green to through clean it to rid of the burn rings on the cylinder i have used lead remover clothe i used Sweets 7.62 bore solvent for the barrel
want to try a great cleaner? Lowes find "Safari Charlies" gun lube. It's greaseless, dispells dust, not oily whatsoever and smells great. Like emu, "and you won't STINK". By-the-way, my Dad's gun cabinet always smelled like 3-in-1 oil and to this day i'll use just a little drop here and there to take me back to home! Safari Charlie's, try it you'll simply love it.
I was happy (and sad) to hear you're In Illinois. It's a terrible gun state we live in. Love the channel.
Great job!
great video ..i'm going to get GP 100 and start to re clean it..
Really informative and helpful video!
Crud was responsible for jamming up my S&W mod 638 Bodyguard!
I couldn’t open the cylinder, actuate the shrouded hammer...
Nothing, It was stuck!
Smith & Wesson fixed it by cleaning the gun throughly!
I learned my lesson!
You can clean my gun any day!
Great Video nice revolver
Thank you for sharing. Incredibly useful and helpful!
Good video! Very thorough and detailed. I'll add my 2 cents if I may.... If you're an avid shooter and shoot a lot like you, invest in a couple more cleaning rods so you don't have to keep changing out from a brush to a mop, to a patch jag, etc. It saves a ton of time and agravation. Use good bore brushes. The cheap ones have cut ends that are sharp and can scratch the back face of the frame wall should the cleaning rod get away from you when cleaning the bore. The better ones are looped on the end and much less likely to scratch or ding anything Final word on bore brushes. Bore brushes are for cleaning bores and charge holes only. All the nooks and crannies or under the extractor should be cleaned using a general purpose (tooth) brush. I prefer nylon GP brushes but whatever suits your fancy.
In my experience, I found that most people tend to over lubricate. If you find it dripping from the gun or pooling in some areas, it's over lubricated. Excess oil tends to attract dust, dirt and fouling. Excess oil can also damage a good leather holster. Oil over time can congeal and gum up the works. Especialliy prone to over lubrication, and you touched on it, is under the extractor and the recess it sits in. I use Hoppe's No9 like you and find that it has just a trace of lubricant in the formula that is sufficient for that area to prevent rust. I clean that area then wipe it with a clean dry patch. If you feel you must use oil, then one small drop, work the extractor a few times to distribute the oil, then wipe the area with a clean dry patch. This is especially important when cleaning the shorter barreled (2-2.5") revolvers as they tend to produce a lot of unburned propellant.
If I don't plan on shooting for a few weeks or more, I use a shaving brush I've sprayed with gun oil to lightly brush all the metal surfaces. It's handy in that it's quick, it gets in all the small areas, under ventilated ribs, etc. and leaves a little heavier layer of oil than I would normaly apply. When I take it out of the safe I give it a quick wipe down with a cloth to remove the excess and off I go.
Again, a good video. Hope I've added to the discussion.
This man is serious about his cleaning
On my "security six," these rings were not so much a carbon ring as they were a more re-inforced 1/4" of steel insert to accept the bullet wear better. The difference very obvious in the two different types of metals. As far as smoke, I get the most smoke and carbon off the lead round nose ammo. Most of my ammo, every box of a $1000.00 don't smoke at all and won't even blacken a piece of cloth. I do have a question on cleaning, sometimes I'll get lazy and not clean as soon as i'm thru and might even shoot again tomorrow without cleaning. I do realize these dirt spot can be burned into the barrel and cause problems but I'd just like to have your opinion. Nice Shootn', bet your pistol's quite warm. eeh. Happiness is a warm gun.
Thoughts on Froglube for Revolver cleaning? Just bought my first revolver.....44 Ruger Redhawk.
Birchwood Casey Gun Scrubber also a great way of getting the filth out. It just runs out of there which makes cleaning such a walk in the park.
nice job on the video
Great info
Thanks for watching
There is a reason for all design aspects of all modern firearms. DO NOT ALTER YOUR GUN, just practice, & yes keep it clean. Respect.
Thanks for the video. New subscriber. Take care
Thank you friend
I shoot pretty much only lead bullets threw my 500 magnum 440, 500 and 700. All are hand loads and she gets extremely dirty probably fired about 100 rounds of lead and haven't clean her but always removed the lead out of the barrel with a normal brush after every 15-20 rounds to remove the lead. Can't wait to try it on the outside of the cylinder etc...
Mothers Mag and Aluminum polish. Takes all the fouling off easy and polishes entire gun to a spit shine
What powder are you using?? I use Win 231. After 50 rounds my Ruger SP101 is still very clean.
Nickel per round. You had no idea how funny that was going to be two yrs ago!
you have made a very informative video here and you have 100% the right idea. Revolvers take a lot more careful cleaning then autopistols, which are a breeze by comparison. I was very surprised by how much cleaning they need, after 6 or 7 (I've lost count) autopistols, I got my first revolvers (Charter arms .44 buldog, Ruger GP101 .357)) because regardless of bullet type; the lead just keeps coming out, even days later. I just wet the bore with a oil patch then right to the Tornado brush! Since I know I am going to wind up using it at some point anyway. 4 or 5 passes with that, then cleaning the face of the cylinder (more tons of lead on here) and the forcing cone area (brass brush and kroil until i start to see the metal again...) BTW I hate to point this out but, I always pad that area in the frame with a rag or even old sock, in that part where when the rod pushes out it doesn't bash into it (OUCH) I found the bore foam, while effective on other guns, does diddly squat for the revolver bore. Doesnt touch the lead one bit. I have already resigned myself that even the post-shooting session cleaning isn't going to clean it completely, I will have to clean it all over again at least one more time since, somehow, some dirt seems to work its way out of the metal (at least this is what the patches keep showing me).
I really like putting a few jacketed rounds down at the end of a range session to scrape some lead out. Then a pass or two of hoppes 9 then some hoppes foaming bore cleaner and let it sit. I have heard a lewis lead remover is excellent as well
Thanks for the reply! I just bought one of those - lewis lead remover - have not tried it yet; the Tornado brush saves a lot of time...then running chore boy strands around a brush, through the bore, seems to gets all the rest. It always amazes me how much crud seems to come out a day later after you think you cleaned it. The Guidebook for Marines, on small arms, says "Clean the gun the same way for 3 days after firing." They're saying the same thing, crud works its way out of the metal and reappears, esp in the bore..
I tried the Lewis contraption, it came out very clean... maybe that was because the Tornado brush i used did a better job then i thiought. As for the Lewis lead remover, the brass screen just tore right off the second pass through the bore.... I'm going back to the Chore boy pads (never should have left them).
Impressive. I’m picking up my GP 100 Model 1771 4.2” .357 7 shot today. Most helpful! Saved.
I blew up one of cylinder of my old Ruger security Six that I paid $100.00 in 1989. I send the blew up firearms back to the factory and they refused to repair it but send my GP-100 stainless steel 6" without going via FFL in 1989 and asked me to pay $180.00 for the trade in! I brought another GP-100 starless during introductory put the gun in the bank when I lost my job in 1993 and it still in MA.
I brought more Ruger Security Six stainless both 4 and 6" Old stock both blue and steel in 1980 because the gun was so cheap and it very accurate.
I just picked up mine a few days ago. It's exactly as you described. (1771 model). I can't wait to clean it and shoot it.
I'll be ordering some foam cleaner. Thanks for the video! I learned a lot.
As far as lubricant goes I like a CLP like break Free or similar
Reason being that dirt does not get stuck to it like regular oil.. also if you own a revolver with a titanium cylinder.. do not use a harsh solvent.. and use a nylon brush instead of a brass brush.. the reason is you can ruin the coating on a titanium cylinder. And then the cylinder will wear much quicker..
Great video please do the GP100 cylinder mine doesn’t spin as freely
I just inherited an old smith and Wesson revolver and wanted to clean it up.
Dang the things we gotta do to make a test subject. You had to shoot it to get it dirty again, nuggets. Good stuff informative. I'm not a fan, even if it's made safe, of looking down the barrel of any gun or pointing it at anyone. That's just me.
What size barrel is your revolver? Debating on the 4” or 5”. Intentions are for a fun range gun, bedside gun, camping gun. Thoughts?
Bore brushes and rods are obsolete, except for the chambers ,as are lead bullets
Bore snakes are the way to go
Hoppes9 is out dated or a weak cleaner. Look up Rimfire Blend from Bore Tech. This stuff works great. Apply to a patch and let soak for 1 minute then run clean dry patch through bore. Little to no scrubbing needed.
had to watch this again.....my 620 was pretty bad
Love the way you pound the cleaning rod down the muzzle of that revolver. I’ll bet the crown is really worn.
..I saw a cylinder that had lead rings that prevented 357 from being chambered...our gunsmith told ne it came from using wadcutters and not scubbing the cylinder after each use.. 35 years ago he used mercury to clean them...
Lead cloth will take most fouling off in short order
Lucas polymer safe gun cleaner
Instantly cleans everything else
Great information!!! Thank you for sharing!!!
Your wheel gun is well taken care of
i struggle a bit with my 686, the screw holes for the rear sights kinda forces a jet of fire onto the top of the cylinder, really hard to clean off those marks, take twice as long to clean up than the rest of the revolver, annoying as hell
Is that a 5” or 6” Ruger. Thanks
When I am done shooting Lead Rounds through a Gun I Finish Up by Shooting a couple of Rounds of Copper Jacketed Bullets through the Gun to Force Out most the Lead Buildup making a Clean Up Easier later on in the day. That is my Opinion and Routine anyway.
I do this too. I have a judge, fired lead 45 colt. I tried every solvent and brush trying to get the lead out of the barrel. I found out 410 copper buck shot does the trick. Too bad they don't make buck shot rounds for all revolvers.
Do u have cylinder drag marks on your cylinder
You need to count and stop after 6.......or keep going if you like. I change my mags at nine with a 10 round mag. Counting = Good.
The biggest problem with cleaning revolvers is getting the forcing cone clean , if anyone out there knows how to best clean a forcing cone I’d greatly appreciate it .Its also important to use gloves when cleaning with solvents , solvents are know to cause cancers , we firearms owners use these nasty chemicals for years so we must use gloves every time we clean our shooting irons . I noticed that you using the foam cleaner without first having completely removed the Hoppes solvent from the barrel and cylinder , I’m not sure that mixing different solvents and cleaners together is a good idea. Best to use degreaser before applying a different chemical cleaner .Scotchbrite with Hoppes #9 gets the carbon off the front of the cylinder, rub lightly and it clean it up just fine .
You've turned a 5 min task into a 40 min video. Don't over think cleaning a pistol. I've got right around 200k rounds through my 1974 Mod 19 using little more than Hoppes 9, a little oil and occasionally an aggressive bore scrubber every few thousand rounds. I shoot a LOT of 2.7gr Bullseye/148 SWC target loads as well...probably the dirtiest load you can shoot. Pistols do NOT need to be spotless to be dead on accurate. As a matter of fact you can do more HARM than good when getting so aggressive so often. I have 40 years of shooting to back this up...These aren't fragile little toys. They can take quite a bit of use and abuse. No need to go all OCD. Don't get me started on people fretting over the burn marks on the cylinder...Oh...patches are cheap. Don't keep running that same dirty patch in and out of the chambers. Run the ONE WAY as well. Buy a few bags of "Pro Shot" cotton patches. Cheap patches are a waste of time and money. Same goes for cheap jags/brushes. Buy a good set of brass jags.
This was for illustration purposes. I generally only clean my guns this well once every few years. But if you are buying a used gun or selling your guns this level of cleaning is definitely recommended
Thirty-nine years Law Enforcement retired. I carry an N-frame Smith & Wesson Mountain Gun stainless in 44 Mag or 45 Colt or my Colt 1911 45acp. (10,000 rounds plus) I keep them spotlessly clean. Buy your patches in bulk, and don't keep pushing dirty patches down the bore. Purchase a brass or plastic guide for your clean rod. I use Hoppe 9 plus, Ballistol and Break Free CLP for everything.
I stopped by a fabric store, looked over all the white fabrics and chose a couple. One was a flannel much like normal patches and the other a more tight weave. Now I can just sit and cut out some strips while watching some video. Cheaper by far than buying patches and since I'm just mindlessly watching videos I fill the time with something productive. It also allows me to customize the size of the patches a bit more as well. One key thing I figure out for all this is to run the fabric through the washer before I used them. It does something that makes them mush easier to use. Anyhow, in the end I have no problems chucking a patch since they cost a trivial small amount because of all this.
Nick Knight cutting up old t shirts and underwear is a good way to make patches and make use of the old junk too.
TakeDeadAim really it’s ridiculous
Debating on getting a revolver to add to the collection do you recommend.357 or .44?
Why not both? 😏
.357
you can shoot .38 special, and still be able to shoot full magnum's.
My Ruger GP100 6" is an absolute pleasure to shoot and doubles as an anchor when i go boating.
Nice gun...is that a 5 or 6"?
It is the 5" I made a video about it here.
czcams.com/video/v0nYmfOo6hE/video.html
its a 6" bbl Ruger never issued the GP100 in a 5"I wish they did but this one is a 6"
Mark Aul , you are incorrect. They did make some 5” models, but they are not common. A lot of people think the 5” is the perfect length. Mine is a 4.2”
Gloves might be handy while gun cleaning...
You should be wearing disposable gloves to protect your skin from chemicals.
If my 38 Special is loaded in his Rusty how can I clean it
when i clean my gp100 i always take the grips of
Never want a dirty grip!
You should be wearing gloves to protect your skin when using chemicals to clean your firearms.
Also be real careful when using the rod when entering and exiting the crown of the muzzle or better yet use a brass tapered tool made to protect the crown when cleaning the bore.
It's possible to do damage to the crown if you're not careful and it will affect accuracy in a big way.
Nice flagging of your face for a second there lol
bummer. i was hoping to see how you would restore/clean a slightly heat tinted stainless barrel
cant find Birchwood casey at any gun store, Amazon?
Amazon has a few different lead remover cloths google brings up the Birchwood and the Kleenbore one on amazon as the first to results. Any lead remover cloth should work.
What do you guys think about NOT removing the burn rings in front of the cylinder so that it might take up a portion of the gap between the forcing cone and the cylinder thus increasing the muzzle velocity? Say you have .005 clearance and you let the burn rings to build up to decrease that to say .004 ? Think about installing a new exhaust system/manifold in a truck which will have tiny leaks at gasket surfaces initially, but after a while with the help of that diesel soot, all those tiny cracks will be filled up and everything will be airtight...