I bought mine used so it was mostly put together, just in sections. I have some Footage I took of me putting it on but never made it into a video. There really isn't much to it. The parts are stickered with letters to match up and once you see a bit snapped together it becomes obvious. The only pain was getting it bolted to the tractor on the front mounts and getting it to all come together. You have to keep the bolts loose until everything is clicked in place otherwise you will be swearing a lot. 🤣 It's not too bad. You may need longer bolts for where it mounts to the seat area, but if you bought it new it should have them in the kit. I'm using mine for a hard roof mount, see latest video. Cheers, Greg
@@quantumphaser I purchased the same cab cover you have for Farm & Family for $365. I have a Craftsman Special Edition YS4500 tractor. I installed the cab cover with minimal issues. The first issue was mounting the rear plate bracket. I needed 1/4" longer bolts and the bracket had to be bent about 10 degrees. The next issue was the front mounts. The correct hole were in the frame however there is a a rod type bracket mounted to the rear of the cab mount holes. I had to cut notch the cab cover mounts to fit around the bracket. The only other issue I see is the winkles in the clear plastic that I hope will work themselves out. My Equipment ( I have not started the tractor since I started bolting things on) Craftsman Special Edition YS4500 tractor $2100 Agi-Fab 50" thrower with 2000lb wench, electric chute rotation and electric chute diverter. $1950 Arnold Tire Chains $80 Husqvarna Cab Cover $360 Home made weight rack & added 84lbs for suit case weights (which isnt enough) ordered another 84lbs $240 LED light bar, Amber flashing light and Slow Moving Vehicle sign. (none have been installed yet) $90 Problem: I need 12' ramps as is to load and unload from my trailer because the thrower only lifts 3". I am looking at re-engineering the thrower lift assembly and making aluminum ramps. 1" of lift is equal to 4.4 degree ramps. If I can get 4" of lift my loading ramps can be at 17.6 degrees and closer to 10.5'. Taller front tires on the tractor maybe worth looking into.
I got mine today 9/1/22, it wasn't hard to assemble. My initial opinion is, I don't LOVE it but I don't hate it either. I did find that on my YTH26V54 it's about 2 inches to tall which is an easy fix (lower it) so the skirt magnets will lock to the foot boards. I'm going to leave it in the sun hoping to "melt" the wrinkles out of the "windows". I am not concerned about the side or back "windows" being wrinkled but I want the front window to be way better than out of the box. I will buy a piece of plexiglass and bolt it to the front window area cutting the plastic window away so the front glass will be unobscured by wrinkles (about $50 including metal strips and screws. It has VENTALATION in case of exhaust fumes. If it keeps wind and snow off me while plowing, that's what I was after. Interior heating would be a complete waste of time on this unit but that was never my objective.
I just installed the snow cab on my Husqvarna. I have the snow blade with single handle attached also. Trying to get feedback from the company and haven't been able to. I assumed that the snow handle would go through the front zipper and section, but the zippered section does not seem tall enough or low enough and the handle hits the top and bottom when I raise and lower the blade. I noticed also that the left hand door has an open section in it attached with magnets. I tried having the handle on the outside of the cab and it rubs the pole and would wear a hole in the fabric. Any idea which way it is supposed to be?
No idea on that one as I bought this to get the metal frame mainly for a summer cab I'm building. It is a "Universal Fit" for all Husqvarna 2007 and up tractors. So depending on what equipment you attach, blade vs snowblower, you may have to mod it, which may be a sucky option. I do know a guy who had an issue with the chute direction lever being a problem with rubbing the fabric and just wouldn't work right. His solution was to get an actuator motor with a switch and do away with the lever and the cab worked great and looked good. Not sure if any of this is helpful to you. I'll pin your comment and maybe someone else will chime in with an idea on this. Cheers, Greg
Thanks Greg for the reply. I actually had a lot of them personal family issues recently and forgot that I even left a comment here. Your info does help a little bit, I may have to modify, just not sure how to go about that yet. Thanks for the input about the actuator. Not very familiar with how that would install width a snow blade, but after a quick Google search, they seem reasonably priced, and from what I saw what I would need two of them, 14 up and down and one for side to side. That may be and Avenue I will approach. Thanks again
@@FLYAWAYFROMHERE89 I just picked up a tractor today that will be the earth mover. There will be mods to it like an electric bucket/blade and electric power sleeve hitch. It's gonna be an awesome build and it may give you some ideas.
@@quantumphaser yesterday evening, I finally received a reply from the company. Their reply was that the handle does not go through the front wall zipper. I replied to them, asking them what the zipper I replied to them, asking them what the zippers on the front door for then? They said that they handle goes on the outside, which I still find funny because it rubs the pole and would wear a hole in the fabric, and overtime would rub the paint off the pole. I guess I'm just going to have to find some kind of fabric tape to reinforce that area. I find it puzzling though that they could have just made the zipper area a few inches taller and a few inches lower and it would have worked perfectly inside. Puzzling also that they would have you reach outside to control the handle when you're supposed to be in a weather enclosure LOL. I appreciate your help.
Been looking at this to see if I can modify it to fit my 1996 Craftsman GT6000. Are the vent screens on the back corners always open or can they be zipped up or covered partially? I would hope the Vinyl and plastic would fit the frame a bit tighter.
Just bought one of these and havent installed it yet. Was hoping to find a video on the install but there is nothing out there.
I bought mine used so it was mostly put together, just in sections.
I have some Footage I took of me putting it on but never made it into a video.
There really isn't much to it. The parts are stickered with letters to match up and once you see a bit snapped together it becomes obvious.
The only pain was getting it bolted to the tractor on the front mounts and getting it to all come together. You have to keep the bolts loose until everything is clicked in place otherwise you will be swearing a lot. 🤣
It's not too bad. You may need longer bolts for where it mounts to the seat area, but if you bought it new it should have them in the kit.
I'm using mine for a hard roof mount, see latest video.
Cheers,
Greg
@@quantumphaser I purchased the same cab cover you have for Farm & Family for $365. I have a Craftsman Special Edition YS4500 tractor. I installed the cab cover with minimal issues.
The first issue was mounting the rear plate bracket. I needed 1/4" longer bolts and the bracket had to be bent about 10 degrees. The next issue was the front mounts. The correct hole were in the frame however there is a a rod type bracket mounted to the rear of the cab mount holes. I had to cut notch the cab cover mounts to fit around the bracket. The only other issue I see is the winkles in the clear plastic that I hope will work themselves out.
My Equipment ( I have not started the tractor since I started bolting things on)
Craftsman Special Edition YS4500 tractor $2100
Agi-Fab 50" thrower with 2000lb wench, electric chute rotation and electric chute diverter. $1950
Arnold Tire Chains $80
Husqvarna Cab Cover $360
Home made weight rack & added 84lbs for suit case weights (which isnt enough) ordered another 84lbs $240
LED light bar, Amber flashing light and Slow Moving Vehicle sign. (none have been installed yet) $90
Problem: I need 12' ramps as is to load and unload from my trailer because the thrower only lifts 3". I am looking at re-engineering the thrower lift assembly and making aluminum ramps. 1" of lift is equal to 4.4 degree ramps. If I can get 4" of lift my loading ramps can be at 17.6 degrees and closer to 10.5'. Taller front tires on the tractor maybe worth looking into.
Wow, that is really cool!
Totally worth $200 for that!
Hot Damn!
Neat!😃
Thanks! 😄
😂🤣 Tractor Tent
Brrrrrr .....
LOL
I got mine today 9/1/22, it wasn't hard to assemble. My initial opinion is, I don't LOVE it but I don't hate it either. I did find that on my YTH26V54 it's about 2 inches to tall which is an easy fix (lower it) so the skirt magnets will lock to the foot boards. I'm going to leave it in the sun hoping to "melt" the wrinkles out of the "windows". I am not concerned about the side or back "windows" being wrinkled but I want the front window to be way better than out of the box. I will buy a piece of plexiglass and bolt it to the front window area cutting the plastic window away so the front glass will be unobscured by wrinkles (about $50 including metal strips and screws. It has VENTALATION in case of exhaust fumes. If it keeps wind and snow off me while plowing, that's what I was after. Interior heating would be a complete waste of time on this unit but that was never my objective.
I am extremely interested in the cap cover
I just installed the snow cab on my Husqvarna. I have the snow blade with single handle attached also. Trying to get feedback from the company and haven't been able to. I assumed that the snow handle would go through the front zipper and section, but the zippered section does not seem tall enough or low enough and the handle hits the top and bottom when I raise and lower the blade. I noticed also that the left hand door has an open section in it attached with magnets. I tried having the handle on the outside of the cab and it rubs the pole and would wear a hole in the fabric. Any idea which way it is supposed to be?
No idea on that one as I bought this to get the metal frame mainly for a summer cab I'm building.
It is a "Universal Fit" for all Husqvarna 2007 and up tractors. So depending on what equipment you attach, blade vs snowblower, you may have to mod it, which may be a sucky option.
I do know a guy who had an issue with the chute direction lever being a problem with rubbing the fabric and just wouldn't work right. His solution was to get an actuator motor with a switch and do away with the lever and the cab worked great and looked good.
Not sure if any of this is helpful to you. I'll pin your comment and maybe someone else will chime in with an idea on this.
Cheers,
Greg
Thanks Greg for the reply. I actually had a lot of them personal family issues recently and forgot that I even left a comment here. Your info does help a little bit, I may have to modify, just not sure how to go about that yet. Thanks for the input about the actuator. Not very familiar with how that would install width a snow blade, but after a quick Google search, they seem reasonably priced, and from what I saw what I would need two of them, 14 up and down and one for side to side. That may be and Avenue I will approach. Thanks again
By the way, I also intend on using the frame to convert to a summer cab.
@@FLYAWAYFROMHERE89 I just picked up a tractor today that will be the earth mover. There will be mods to it like an electric bucket/blade and electric power sleeve hitch.
It's gonna be an awesome build and it may give you some ideas.
@@quantumphaser yesterday evening, I finally received a reply from the company. Their reply was that the handle does not go through the front wall zipper. I replied to them, asking them what the zipper I replied to them, asking them what the zippers on the front door for then? They said that they handle goes on the outside, which I still find funny because it rubs the pole and would wear a hole in the fabric, and overtime would rub the paint off the pole. I guess I'm just going to have to find some kind of fabric tape to reinforce that area. I find it puzzling though that they could have just made the zipper area a few inches taller and a few inches lower and it would have worked perfectly inside. Puzzling also that they would have you reach outside to control the handle when you're supposed to be in a weather enclosure LOL. I appreciate your help.
Why is there opened mesh on it? Snow would get in.
Been looking at this to see if I can modify it to fit my 1996 Craftsman GT6000. Are the vent screens on the back corners always open or can they be zipped up or covered partially? I would hope the Vinyl and plastic would fit the frame a bit tighter.
Sure looks blurry