Having done all my screen printing in tshirt shops, using a carousel press, its always so fun to see the plethora of ways people can print with the screens. I remeber the first time i saw a video of someone blew my mind how simple it can be
Shelly I'm proud to say that you might have the best diy screen press table video on the tube!!! Thanks so much for the video and thanks for responding KIRK :)
Here are the plans that I found on the t-shirt forum. drive.google.com/file/d/1svIjeXDLm8PO-IrFzdY8innI5jGaexWR/view?usp=drivesdk The full discussion is here: www.t-shirtforums.com/threads/d-i-y-line-table-and-screen-stretcher.359930/
I attempted to with bolts in the middle bar. But it would typically work as long as my films were burned correctly, the screens would always line up. i just had to make sure my shirts were squared off. Here are some examples: czcams.com/video/661QwlAmKBs/video.html and czcams.com/video/0VM7b1y99lA/video.html czcams.com/video/N0bBM4t7qf0/video.html
@@ShellyCreatesIt How well does it handle multi-color prints? I'd think the wood on each frame would be slightly different so that system would be off a bit without some sort of flexibility for micro registrations/adjustments. I think a 2-peg system with the screens calibrated to the exact same positioning using adjustable brackets would render better results.
I align the screens to the design and burn the transparencies, therefore the screen discrepancies don't effect the alignment. I can understand the difficulties.
Great question! I should get an aluminum frame and try it! I would say, 'yes.' Make sure your platens and spacing between them fit the 24x20 frame size. For alignment, (if you don't want to drill into the metal frame) you can put all the alignment on the center bar. Maybe have 2 brackets or bolts that the screen fits between and sits flush against the middle bar. It doesn't allow for micro registration, but if every platen is square and the screens align the same way, and you burn the screens correctly - you won't need micro registration.
The 2x2 seem to hold up well. There isn't a lot of pressure when I print because I don't want the ink to bleed through the tee. I also placed at least 3 to 4 l brackets under each platen to hold the 2x2 to the platen. So far it seems sturdy enough and I've been using for nearly 10 months.
I'm in the same situation. Love the waterbased inks, but I'm doing a jersey order now where I am having to try plastisol. Fingers crossed it works. It is definitely different than water based!
My husband did it with a router. We measured each piece (because the sizes of the wood vary slightly) and cut out the same size notch for each location.
You can create an account and it will give you full access. Another user has also shared the link to google drive copy: drive.google.com/file/d/1svIjeXDLm8PO-IrFzdY8innI5jGaexWR/view?usp=drivesdk
I somehow missed your question! Thanks for asking, I have three speedball screens that are 13.5" tall x 9.5" wide, and four homemade sizes: (H x W) 9.5" x 7.5" 11.5" x 9" 16" x 9"
It is in the description. Also, another user commented and shared this link: drive.google.com/file/d/1svIjeXDLm8PO-IrFzdY8innI5jGaexWR/view?usp=drivesdk
There is a link in the description to access the plans. Also another user has shared a google drive link here: drive.google.com/file/d/1svIjeXDLm8PO-IrFzdY8innI5jGaexWR/view?usp=drivesdk
Here's my temporary website: shopshellycreatesit.com/ I was playing domain & messed things up! Should have previous (shellycreatesit.com) up and running by August 20th, 2021! Thanks for understanding!
You can view my screenprint table Kit here to find the dowel rod used for the center peg. kit.com/michellebkolo/line-table-supplies/3-16-dowel-rod-nail It's a 3/16 in dowel rod that we cut into 3 in sections and glued into the center 2x2 board. We also sanded/rounded the top to make the t-bracket easy to slide on and off.
You can comment back/forth here, or you can email at: shellycreatesit@gmail.com I have only used water-based ink up until this past week, and haven't needed to have off-contact. I am currently printing a jersey order with Wilflex Poly White and I'm finding that I need the off contact. There was another comment on my channel suggesting placing a washer on the dowel rod(registration) in the middle of the table, but I'm concerned about it affecting my alignment/registration. I think I might superglue some washers on the print side of my screen, but the only concern would be the next time I go to burn the screen, will the washers affect my off contact?
Thank you. I place a 3 in x 3 in Zinc-plated T-Plate by Everbilt on each of my screens to place over the pin. I purchased at Home Depot. www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-3-in-x-3-in-Zinc-Plated-T-Plate-2-Pack-15169/202033997
Having done all my screen printing in tshirt shops, using a carousel press, its always so fun to see the plethora of ways people can print with the screens. I remeber the first time i saw a video of someone blew my mind how simple it can be
Yes!! It really is amazing. It took me a while to wrap my mind around it too.
To add speed and accuracy, I would have 2 posts for the screen to hook to. 😊
Love that idea! Leaves no space for errors too.
Shelly I'm proud to say that you might have the best diy screen press table video on the tube!!! Thanks so much for the video and thanks for responding KIRK :)
Thank you for the comment! I'm glad it was helpful!
Thank you very much.
You're welcome
Ich suche schon lange nach so einen Tisch. 😊😊
Eindrucksvoll! Schön, dass Sie etwas Hilfreiches gefunden haben.
Awesome! Glad you found something helpful.
Thank you for sharing your video. God bless
Thanks for watching and commenting :)
Wondeful desciption.thanks
Thanks and welcome
Thanks
Thank you
You're welcome!
Very good
Thanks
Amazing
Thank you!
Hi Shelley! Thank you for sharing your video. Very helpful!
Thank you!
Nice! keep sharing - spread the love - new friend here 🤗
Thanks for visiting
Nice tutorial new friend here..stay safe..
Thanks for watching! Stay safe as well!
Good
Thanks!
hello thanks for the video, cant seem to see the plans could you kindly assist
Here are the plans that I found on the t-shirt forum. drive.google.com/file/d/1svIjeXDLm8PO-IrFzdY8innI5jGaexWR/view?usp=drivesdk
The full discussion is here: www.t-shirtforums.com/threads/d-i-y-line-table-and-screen-stretcher.359930/
Hey Shelly I have a question. On you diy line table did you add a micro registration for multi color and if so how do I do it as well?
I attempted to with bolts in the middle bar. But it would typically work as long as my films were burned correctly, the screens would always line up. i just had to make sure my shirts were squared off.
Here are some examples:
czcams.com/video/661QwlAmKBs/video.html
and
czcams.com/video/0VM7b1y99lA/video.html
czcams.com/video/N0bBM4t7qf0/video.html
Good job
Thank you!
Can you do a more detailed video on how to register multiple colors with this system. Im still confused
Sure! I'd be glad to. :D thanks for asking
great job, i see the top dowel, but how do you keep the screen from moving from side to side
The screen is flush against the middle bar, therefore does not move from side to side.
@@ShellyCreatesIt How well does it handle multi-color prints? I'd think the wood on each frame would be slightly different so that system would be off a bit without some sort of flexibility for micro registrations/adjustments. I think a 2-peg system with the screens calibrated to the exact same positioning using adjustable brackets would render better results.
I align the screens to the design and burn the transparencies, therefore the screen discrepancies don't effect the alignment. I can understand the difficulties.
Curious, would you be able to use standard 24x20 aluminum frames with this system?
Great question! I should get an aluminum frame and try it! I would say, 'yes.' Make sure your platens and spacing between them fit the 24x20 frame size.
For alignment, (if you don't want to drill into the metal frame) you can put all the alignment on the center bar. Maybe have 2 brackets or bolts that the screen fits between and sits flush against the middle bar. It doesn't allow for micro registration, but if every platen is square and the screens align the same way, and you burn the screens correctly - you won't need micro registration.
Hi Shelley, just wondering if the 2x2 holds up to the pressure of the putting the ink onto the shirt with the screen when pressing? Thank you.
The 2x2 seem to hold up well. There isn't a lot of pressure when I print because I don't want the ink to bleed through the tee. I also placed at least 3 to 4 l brackets under each platen to hold the 2x2 to the platen. So far it seems sturdy enough and I've been using for nearly 10 months.
@@ShellyCreatesIt ARe you using mostly plastisol? love the design will give it a go if it can halde pressure using waterbased
@@lukereeby8566 I am mainly using water based. Not sure when... or if I'll move to plastisol inks.
I'm in the same situation. Love the waterbased inks, but I'm doing a jersey order now where I am having to try plastisol. Fingers crossed it works. It is definitely different than water based!
Thanks for this! How do you make the notches so percise in the wood? What did you use to cut it
My husband did it with a router. We measured each piece (because the sizes of the wood vary slightly) and cut out the same size notch for each location.
Your link to the "discussion" forum with the alleged "plan" only has a very small thumbnail image, not the full jpg
It's there, click on it. Or left-click and save as. That's the easy part, good luck with the build.
You can create an account and it will give you full access. Another user has also shared the link to google drive copy: drive.google.com/file/d/1svIjeXDLm8PO-IrFzdY8innI5jGaexWR/view?usp=drivesdk
Hi shelly. This is so nice. Btw what is the size of you screen?
I somehow missed your question! Thanks for asking,
I have three speedball screens that are 13.5" tall x 9.5" wide,
and four homemade sizes: (H x W)
9.5" x 7.5"
11.5" x 9"
16" x 9"
May i ask what size of Screen Frame do you use? TIA...
I have three speedball screens that are 13.5" tall x 9.5" wide,
and four homemade sizes: (H x W)
9.5" x 7.5"
11.5" x 9"
16" x 9"
Hey what type of ink do you use
I use Speedball water based ink. kit.co/michellebkolo/water-based-ink-for-screen-printing
Where is the link can i have the drawing plan and dimension pls! Thanks!
It is in the description. Also, another user commented and shared this link: drive.google.com/file/d/1svIjeXDLm8PO-IrFzdY8innI5jGaexWR/view?usp=drivesdk
Hi can you include in the description the layout i cant print the layout.
thanks.
There is a link in the description to access the plans. Also another user has shared a google drive link here: drive.google.com/file/d/1svIjeXDLm8PO-IrFzdY8innI5jGaexWR/view?usp=drivesdk
Do you have the link for the print out?
Yes, It is in the description. Also, another user shared this link: drive.google.com/file/d/1svIjeXDLm8PO-IrFzdY8innI5jGaexWR/view?usp=drivesdk
what did you use to cut the notches in the wood?
We used chisel and hammer to notch it out. You could probably use a saw or a router to get the bulk and clean it up with chisel and sandpaper.
@@ShellyCreatesIt I also was having a hard time trying to find the pdf on how to build it. I seen the link but I didnt where to download the file at
Hi! The website link does not work. Are you still in business?
Here's my temporary website: shopshellycreatesit.com/
I was playing domain & messed things up! Should have previous (shellycreatesit.com) up and running by August 20th, 2021!
Thanks for understanding!
@@ShellyCreatesIt thank you for the update
So i guessyou attach a bracket to each.screen
Yes, I attached each T-Brace to each screen. The 'L' corner bracket is used in the middle of the table for alignment.
Where did you get the center bolts from
You can view my screenprint table Kit here to find the dowel rod used for the center peg.
kit.com/michellebkolo/line-table-supplies/3-16-dowel-rod-nail
It's a 3/16 in dowel rod that we cut into 3 in sections and glued into the center 2x2 board. We also sanded/rounded the top to make the t-bracket easy to slide on and off.
Off contact ?
I don't have off contact with the line table. With water based ink, it works fine.
Thanks a lot a lot Shelly.. i wanna talk To you ? How can i join you.. i have a table like this. How do you manage off contact..???
You can comment back/forth here, or you can email at: shellycreatesit@gmail.com
I have only used water-based ink up until this past week, and haven't needed to have off-contact. I am currently printing a jersey order with Wilflex Poly White and I'm finding that I need the off contact. There was another comment on my channel suggesting placing a washer on the dowel rod(registration) in the middle of the table, but I'm concerned about it affecting my alignment/registration. I think I might superglue some washers on the print side of my screen, but the only concern would be the next time I go to burn the screen, will the washers affect my off contact?
They say u can use washers or tape quarters to the corners
Description link is not working .
drive.google.com/file/d/1svIjeXDLm8PO-IrFzdY8innI5jGaexWR/view?usp=drivesdk
Thanks for sharing!
How much did it cost u mam
I believe it was $150 to $200 (USD) for all of the wood and hardware.
Nice plan, but where to get the T thing (czcams.com/video/FK-tfpFUmVM/video.html), that you have attached on your frame, which goes down in a pin?
Thank you. I place a 3 in x 3 in Zinc-plated T-Plate by Everbilt on each of my screens to place over the pin. I purchased at Home Depot.
www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-3-in-x-3-in-Zinc-Plated-T-Plate-2-Pack-15169/202033997