44. Wiring Problem at Chadwick Model railway.
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- čas přidán 4. 10. 2018
- Model Railway Wiring Problem
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Hi Charlie, Great YT clip, so it seems Nail Varnish saved the day to solve the issues, great to watch, didn’t expect the end result to be Nail Varnish Remover, not sure how this will look when i put a jar thought the till lol but it all help to keep your railway running smoothly. so great TopTip and Thumbs up by me 👍 and as always great to watch and professional as expected Charlie.
Hi Jamie, it’s comments like yours that keep me going. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, What I have done is switch the tack power using a relay to the diamond because you won’t have a train running straight through the diamond whilst the two points are reversed. Cheers, Bill.
PS Love the channel!
Thanks Bill, that’s a very interesting modification. Regards Charlie
Thanks for sharing this, Charlie. Sometimes, a trouble spot is obvious and sometimes it seems to make no sense at all. This was a great demonstration of a thorough process and solution.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
This is a really good tip. I've got some older coaches. Some of them are Lima. I think with this I will be do this. Using clear nail varnish on my crossings on the layout that I'm designing or investing in newer coaches
Or Stephen, you could replace the wheels.
Regards Charlie
I am ready to build my second layout and also use peco electrofrog turnouts. Thank you for your tips as I continue to view all of your videos that are very enjoyable. I live in Pennsylvania in the U.S. and like watching the different brands of modeling products that you use. Nicely done.
Thanks Tony, I’m so pleased that you enjoy the channel.
I had exactly the same problem with shorting out at the diamond crossover - and the varnish, although it worked, it was only a temporary fix. I came up with another solution, but this involved some electrical jiggery-pokery. All rails were isolated to the crossover (like yours in the video) and the only power that reaches the crossover rails is when there is a correct entry and exit path - all other rails remain dead, i.e. no shorting out on adjacent tracks.
I used the frog power feeds from the approaching pointworks passed into 7404 NOR and a 7408 AND chips, add in a couple of small MOSFETS and a pair of relays and the job is a good'un - no more shorts. What's more, if an exit point is wrong, no derailment as there will be no power on the crossover and the loco stops.
Maybe this is a bit OTT, but it works.
What a great modification, and a reliable solution. Well done mate, regards Charlie
Great bit of problem solving there Charlie - that would have had a lot of people (including me) scratching their heads for weeks!
I’m so pleased that you found it interesting mate. Regards Charlie
Great update. I’ll have to remember that tip if I come across a short like that . Thanks 👍🏻👍🏻
You’re welcome Jim.
Afternoon Charlie. Great job and fix. Good job your wife is very understanding with her nail varnish lol 😆 That’s the fun of model railways get a fault then fix it!! Thanks again for sharing your layout looking forward to your next one Stevie.
Hi Stevie, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. We all like a head scratching problem. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, glad you got to the bottom of the problem. I would never have solved it. Cheers John.
Just persistent John, never give up!
Cracking tip
Thank you for all the information on electricity and soldering. I'm working on an O Gauge layout but the basics still apply. I created a "poor man's" helping hand with odds and ends laying about. THANKS!!
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video and good luck with your layout.
Thanks Charlie, I was testing a new DCC controller yesterday and had the same problem with an identical cause. A Lima coach at the tail end of the train going over a diamond crossing whilst the loco was going over points. Luckily after a couple of minutes I remembered this video which I had watched a month or so back. You have saved me several hours of fruitless faultfinding! Thank again.
I’m so pleased that you found it useful Mike. I just wish that I had an easier way out too.
Good troubleshooting and thank you for the tip on how to cure the problem. -Jack
Just sharing the knowledge Jack.
Another good video Charlie. Certainly interesting watching your diamond crossing issue and how you addressed it. Everard Junction had a similar issue and he sorted it by using a small piece of plastic. Certainly many ways to solve it out there. When I used the code 100 diamond crossing in the past, I isolated the diamond crossing completely and had independent feeders to each set of rails and used a double pole double throw switch to select which rails I wanted powered. I had no issues at all. It did involve a lot of manual switching however. The sign looks the goods and I’m jealous. Might have to get a hat of my own because I hit my head as well just before. Hat parade coming maybe? Clint
Hi Clint, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video. Yes the hat saves the pain! But so would not buying Lima rolling stock! Good luck with your layout. Regards Charlie
Brilliant and helpful as ever Charlie! Thanks for all of these brilliant guides...
Glad you like them Mike.
Wow, at 14:44 you can actually see a tiny spark as you run the wheels through that junction. I'm now amazed that this doesn't happen more often on other switches. Great catch. I don't think I would have been able to debug that issue.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it MC.
Brilliant idea of the nail polish!!! Saves a lot of inconvenience and money! Regards Onno.
Hi Onno, just sharing the knowledge. Regards Charlie
excellent advice, I feel your pain with point motors I have just built my fiddle yard and need 39 motors !!!!
We share a mutual burden Brendan.
charlie you just seem to be able to give the correct little tip at the right time, ie nail varnish on cross overs, dcc circuits wired as radial circuits and not rings, power areas using EB 1 etc. thank you very much keep the information comming.
I’m so pleased that you found the channel interesting Philip.
Great tip. Keep doing them.
RL Jenkins
Glad you enjoy them RL.
Hi Charlie, I had the same problem a few years ago, and did a similar trick, but I varnished the wheels. !!!! Great videos, Keep up the good work. Mike
Great idea Mike. There’s always more than one way to skin a cat. Regards Charlie
Great tip I don’t have any of my own still learning
It all helps Brian.
Hi Charlie, I've seen this done before ( nail varnish ) but I found that a sliver of clear sellotape worked just fine.
Regards JC
Hi JC, I like that idea even better.
Hi Charlie. One thing you could do is remove the Lima wheels from their axle, do the same to a modern Bachmann or Hornby coach wheel and swap the wheels on the axles.
That might solve it. The reason you would have to retain the Lima axles is due to their length. Lima axles are 25mm (or less) rather than the standard 26mm that most RTR maker work to.
One other option would be to buy a set of Alan Gibson carriage wheels with 25mm axles - they used to sell them.
Or a final option would be to file the pin-point down on either a Bachmann or Hornby axle and do a straight swap.
Hope this helps. Best wishes, Nick
Some great options, many thanks Nick
Love the flip down panel idea.
Thanks John.
Hi Charlie, Thanks for putting up your videos, I find them very informative. I also use the Digitrax system with the DCS100 the same as yours and noticed that it looks like you have the system grounded and wondered where you ground it.
Thanks. Ed.
Hi Eddie, I don’t believe that you do ground it externally. I imagine that the electronics just need the Zero Volts as a reference. I’ll be interested if anyone else has a view. Regards Charlie
David, I am glad it worked for you, i also use Digitrax
Hi David, thanks for your help. Regards Charlie
I have the same problem with Peco N Scale Electrofrog turnouts. Interesting where you've identified the short, on the turnouts, it is where the two rails come together into the frog point. This is on our club layout. On my personal layout I use electrofrog and isolate all my frogs and power them.
Yes, one way to solve this is to put nail polish (polish here in Canada!) on the rails. Also CA (aka superglue) can be used as can paint (I'd go with enamel as it is harder). The problem with all these solutions is that if you use a track rubber or any abrasive to clean your track, whatever you put on will eventually wear off and you'll have to redo the job.
The only permanent solutions that I'm aware of are to either isolate the frog and power it separately (frog juicer or other method) or very carefully dremel away some of the rail and replace it with some plastic / styrene. BUT, the later is pretty fiddly and can result in a ruined turnout / crossover. I'd suggest either isolating the points and powering them (I think this is the best solution) or continue with nail polish or CA.
However, GREAT find. That was a tricky one to figure out. I did notice sparks at one point though! :).
I'm so pleased that you found it interesting Don.
Hi Charlie
If your carriage have not got lighting, you can also varnish your wheel flanges on the outer side to prevent the short circuit.
Thanks Malcolm
Now there’s an approach that I hadn’t considered. Thanks Malcolm.
Great Video help me out big time. Please do more............
I’m on it Michael!
whilst I accept this is an old post. Charlie asked for input. This is my preferred method for powering ancillary items ,station lights, street lights and stuff like CDU units for points etc.
Old pcu's from your desktop, even old ones give 400 Watts, two I have are 700 watt each.
3V, 6V, 12V, and even -5V which gives 19V for pulsing points motors.!!
What a great system for recycling apparently, useless items. If only most people thought as you do Chris. Regards Charlie
Really useful info in all of your videos just a shame I have built the layout!! I was v interested your piece about track cleaning until i got the the bit about traction tyres (two Lima DMU) so back to Alcohol and an old Triang purpose made truck with a pad underneath and round magnets in the bogies plus a separate yellow wagon with strips of abrasive paper
So sorry Nick.
I can't say I am surprised you had shorting issues with the Lima wheels. I changed all my Lima wheels to Hornby or Bachmann. As a matter of course I use the back to back on every new set of wheels. I found that Bachmann needed more adjustment than Hornby wheels. Thank you again for an informative video. When you magazine articles it doesn't give the issues which you encounter practically and shorting out is one of the common ones when building a layout.
Hi Don, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. I still find it difficult to buy the wheels for my parcels vans.
Regards Charlie
I think I just replaced with Hornby 14 mm wheels. I may have reamed the bogey first. I may have a set, which I could send you. Regards Don@@ChadwickModelRailway
I do know I had problems with a Lima horse box and I definitely had to ream the axle boxes first. Now with reamed axle boxes and new wheels it runs well.
Nice video. Mrs B must be very understanding...
Or unaware!
The nail varnish needs to be on the vertical faces of the rail, to avoid shorting by the wheels (as you have shown). But the loco pick-ups depend on the clean upper surface of the rail, so should not be affected by the varnish.
I am looking at this challenge; since the road through the crossover can only be given to one train (just like dual gauge track) so the power need only be given to one set of rails. You therefore need to link the power for the crossover to the signals for these two crossing sections (which may also be bidirectional :) ). You could link the relay for the rail power to the same switch that sets the two points for the crossover.
Thanks for making this clearer; sorry if I’ve muddied things a bit, but I’m thinking more and more that wheel/rail issues are simplified by wiring all points like electrofrog, and this is another example of holistic thought being beneficial.
Regards, Tom
Hi Tom, the same thoughts have crossed my mind. I could use the tortoise point motors to switch the crossings frogs.
Regards Charlie
Charlie,
Could you find an old Lima wagon/coach with plastic wheels and swap them? If it lighted that may not work though. The other alternative is to remove the wheels (as they are push fitted) from the axels and grind the inside surfaces to thin the flange. You could use an Emory cloth wrapped on a wood block for that. Just an idea. I also noticed the spark at some point as mentioned by someone already. Thanks for the detailed video.
I think the term is lap and not grind!
I sorted out the problem by swapping them for a more refined wheelset. Regards, Charlie
Hi Charlie. Another great video. I have just one item I'd like to discuss with you. On the cross over I see a soldered drop wire. To hide these I put them on the inside of the track and then you won't see them wile in a viewing position. Just a thought!!!
Hi David, mine too will be hard to see once ballasted.
I had similar glitch with the Peco #5 RH turn out. My cousins Athearn F59PHI and Bombardier cars wheels were slightly too fat and it catches the opposite polarity rail past the frog and cause it to short like yours. I used clear nailpolish to isolate a bit more track where the rails meet by the frog.
We all get there in the end. Good luck with your layout. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie
Are you sure your injuries are because your wife keeps catching you with her stuff lol
Great video, tailor made for me with my diamond crossing issues.
The nail varnish does work for a while but eventually wears off as you said and needs re-applying.
I opted for code 75 crossings which are proving much better.
I think I mentioned last time I had trouble not just with lima trucks and coaches but Hornby class 31, 50, 56 and 60, I haven't figured out exactly why but I will certainly be checking the back to backs in case an axle is out.
Looking forward to the tips and tricks video.
The only tip I can think of is using double sided tape on peco point motors to stick them on the underside of the base board, to help mark their position and fix them on....and a piece of wire to hold the point central whilst you do it.
Cheers
Paul
Hi Paul, I'm pleased that you enjoyed it. I have so much Code 100, I just couldn't justify the switch. How's your helix performing? Regards Charlie
I know what you mean about having loads of code 100 Charlie but I couldn't live with the issues I kept getting, it was driving me mad. Doesn't help Im learning as I go with wiring etc...
The helix is still working very well and 'touch wood' no warping etc as yet.
Thanks Paul
Hi Charlie, I've been watching your videos on laying track and solving the glitch when your wheels travel through the frog of
the diamond crossing track. If I may suggest the following hints: when you get the track in the final position and before the
glue is applied, just run a pencil along the edges of the sleepers on both sides as a glue guide line. I noticed that when you
moved the single wheel set through the problem area, the wheel would get cocked between the rails causing a short. Perhaps
a complete wheelset to be used a gage to solve this problem. Good videos though . Bill G. Linwood, Kansas USA
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the videos Bill and many thanks for your advice.
Changing the subject, can you recommend any US Facebook sites that are worth watching?
Regards Charlie
My favorite site here in the U.S. Ron's Trains N Things. I have that site as a favorite on my browser. Bill G Linwood Kansas USA @@ChadwickModelRailway
One thing I forget to mention, Ron's Trains N Things host Ron Marsh is an "N" scaler but I've found I can adapt some of the tips, techniques and hints to HO or as they say in the U.K OO. Regards, Bill G Linwood, Kansas USA@@ChadwickModelRailway
Hi Charlie, interesting video glad you managed to solve it, if you put a small amount of plastic in would that be a longer lasting solution than the nail varnish or as WestBlyth said would plastic wheels work. I look forward to your video on tip sharing, and also your new sign looks great. Regards George.
Hi George, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Plastic wheels is the preferred option but I couldn’t source them. Regards Charlie
Great tip. I wonder if it would also work if you put nail varnish on the Lima wheels rather than the track.
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it.
Well Charlie I had heard of many fixes but I think this one " takes the cake" Looks like you will have a bottle of clear nail varnish on hand all the time, because as you say every time you clean the track off comes the varnish, but on the credit side the varnish has overcome the problem. Cheers Greg
Hi Greg, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video. Black paint might work just as well and you can see if it’s worm away. Regards Charlie
Also another tip, paint the plastic inside rails of peco insulfrog points with acrylic silver to make them look like metal electrofrogs
Yes camouflage the rails, a good point.
Thats it, the insulfrog points yea, those plastic rails just give a dust over with acrylic silver and a gloss varnish on top, look so much better. will even help with the electrical problem you had and look better too.
If you have the space on your layout always try to avoid diamonds. Even in real life they cause issues and require regular maintenance. Top tip though with the nail varnish. Cheers Matt
Hi Matt, I take your point but i really wanted this facility. I avoided a single/double slip as it would not have been prototypical. I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video. Regards Charlie
Chadwick Model Railway no problem keep the videos coming. Thanks Matt
Hi Charlie ATF is a cleaner as well as a lubricant, That's why automatic gearboxes stay pristine. I'm with Michael who would just fit plastic wheels. Frank
You’re right Frank but Lima axels are shorter so I’m tying to source just the wheels.
when you manually pass the lima through the crossing, the sparks are visible !
in fact the bug occurs at the frog. the axle of the car shorts between the 2 bits of the frog
the solution is to use a lathe and remove a some material from the part of the wheel that protrudes outside
You’re dead right AJ but it took ages to figure. I’ve now re-wheeled my offending Lima stock.
I personally, now, rewire all points so that only the frog AND the necessary rails are live for a given route through the point at any one time, I use the point motor auxiliary contacts to swap the polarity of the rails when the route is changed, insulated joiners are used to prevent any electrical feed from the point onto the other track rails.
Well that’s an unusual way of doing it Sam. What prompted the change?
Just watched the wiring problem. For a more permanent fix cut the fog and fit a polarity switch on it making both tracks one polarity varnish and paint will wear off .I did mine and all old stock with wide wheel go across no problem.
Hi, my thoughts are to use the tortoise point motors to switch the crossing frogs. I’ll let folks know how I get on.
I’ve done this on my layout, although I used cobalt point motors but still the same principal, it works well on mine
Yes the nail varnish works, at least until it wears off and has to be re-applied. but it is really a bit of a crude work-around. In my mind the real solution to this is the use of electrofrog track components. Yes they require frog polarity control and that comes with some cost but the reliability and improved looks over the big black plastic insulfrogs is well worth that increased expense.
But electrofrog crossings are only available in Code 75.
The easy alternative is to replace your Lima wheels.
Alan Gibson wheels does do the Lima length axle 24.5mm. Normal length axles are 26mm.
Your the second guy to mention Alan Gibson, I’m on the case. Regards Charlie
Well Charlie , maybe I have a tip for problems with a stottering lokomotif becouse of dirty track . Just put on a light film of ATF Atomatic Transmision Fluid on the track for about 2 inch and you have less problems . Don't use to much . Maybe you did know this already. Greetings form the Netherlands.
An interesting point Bert.
I’m sure people will read this a give it a try.
Regards Charlie
The parts you put the varnish on aren't the only areas that are shorting - from 11:21 to 11:51, as you push the wagon over, you can clearly see it shorting out & sparking as the wheels (especially the 2nd wheelset from the left) cross the V at the left hand end. Because the Lima wheels are so wide, it bridges over the plastic insulating section where the rails meet at the point of the V, and shorts against the other rail. If it helps, you can pause the video and use the , and . keys to skip through frame by frame.
Here's a progression of 3 frames from 11:31, showing one of the sparks: photos.app.goo.gl/rKrHmZJdTFf3ehPo7
Hi Jonny, you are of course right, although it’s not as bad as the other section. More nail varnish perhaps or I may try and switch the frogs from the tortoise point motors. Regards Charlie
Charlie, I reckon the problem is more with the frog heel and the converging rails leading up to the plastic nose rather than the frog toes that you’ve varnished. To me it’s really highlighted at 15:58 where there’s a short occurring as you push the single axle towards the heel. The toe only seems to short if the axle is skewed which wouldn’t really happen when the axles are in a bogie. Barnabas Junction Model Railway did a video last year demonstrating the short, just search “peco point problem” and his vid comes up first.
And regarding replacement axles, I replaced a bunch on my HO Aussie carriages that may suit OO as well and will gladly send some to you to try out. They’re 10.5mm diameter and 25mm point to point with a tread that’s a tad thinner than the stock 11.5mm pizza cutter wheels they replaced. They’re not code 088” tread but under 110”.
Anyway, really enjoy your channel and the effort you put into the vids. Regards from Aus.
Many thanks for your comments. I've checked out Barnabus's video and you make a good point. Rest assured though, it was also occurring where I applied the nail varnish. Furthermore, Richard from Everard Junction had the same problem with Hornby locos. Please check out his czcams.com/video/qm6Pu7Rj87YI/video.htmlf this becomes a recurring problem, I shall attempt to wire the tortoise point motors to switch the diamond frog rails. Regards Charlie
Yeah, I see now. Although I think I’ve seen Richard’s video before it makes more sense now watching it again, and his fix must have worked because I can’t think of another video of his that commented on the issue recurring. Thanks for the reply. Cheers.
I have this exact problem on my N gauge layout after buying some second hand Graham Farish coaches that have had their wheels replaced with some slightly wider ones, but the wheels are so much wider that they short out on the tops of the rails.
Hi Neil, can you change the wheels to plastic ones? This problem drives me nuts.
Chadwick Model Railway good thinking, I’ll get searching for some. Thanks, Charlie.
I like that idea brilliant, also if you are going into computer control and block occupancy you may have to create your own resistance wheel set, easy to do with an SMD resistor and heat sensitive solder paste, conductive glue also can work, or yes spend lots of money on pre made ones, I am in the process of building up C/MRI boards from JLC Enterprises, and doing this with my coaches etc. Love your hard hat routine as well lol, but do you have confined space permits hehehe
Hi Sean,
I have have a previous video called, Block Detection, modifying rolling stock. Please take a look and give me your thoughts.
Has JMRI been renamed? I use Train Controller from Railroad and Co
Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, nah same thing JMRI uses Java programs the C/MRI I am using from JLC enterprises uses generic computer boards that will work with all DC and DCC operation, and any controller you throw at it. It is also self powered so does not take away from your DCC controller or DC power supply at all. Also it can use Java as well as Visual Basic programming to run :). some might say old and outdated but to be honest comprehensive booklets and so flexible in its installation and build.
I would have replaced the wheels on the coach. You can get them from Alan Gibson. The Lima bogies use a smaller length axle. The old Lima "Pizza cutter" wheels where never the best. Keith
Wow, all the searching that I have done I never found an alternative.
Thanks Keith, regards Charlie
Done all the wiring, does it work? does it bugger. love it
I’m so pleased it made you smile.
Hi Charlie, Happy belated birthday and the sign looks very nice. I'm just thinking out loud for a moment, the trick for the short circuit worked very well, but I'm wondering what if you paint that area with a flat black model railway paint? With the paint, you'll visually be able to tell when the area needs touched up, verses having to wait for the command station to tell you another coat of clear nail polish needs applied? On a side note Charlie, I've had my current Digitrax system for 18 enjoyable years now. I hope I've not just jinxed myself, but so far it's been a very reliable DCC system. Cheers, Rich S.
Hi Rich, that’s a good point regarding the paint. Long live Digitrax.
Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie again.
I've been looking back at some of your videos and would like to know where you got your little bottle with the wheel on for track weathering.. regards JC
Hi John, the info is in the “See More” tab on the video, improving track.
I would be tempted to just fit plastic wheels
Michael
Now there is a very sensible suggestion. Regards Charlie
it also shorts out with some hornby locos
Most of my lima coaches are MK1s so I have just replace the bogies and wheels for the Bachmann spares bogies (cat no. 36-005A), I have found these to be much better on both code 100 and code 75 crossings and points.
Hi Charlie: Enjoy your vids even tho' I model HO in Canada. Just wondering if the wheel sets are in gauge, why not just file the gap between the two offending rails to make it a little wider? Seems to me "painting" on nail polish will wear out at some point. Just wondering if doing so might be the long-term solution. JMHO.
Thanks for your thoughts Doug. I might try a slither of sellotape on the offending rail. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie. Most interesting. While the nail varnish (eventually) did the trick, I feel a little dubious. Was it not possible to replace the Lima's wide wheels with narrower ones (I appreciate this would have incurred expense - to you, if not your wife!)?
It’s funny you should say so Paul, because now I’ve ordered all new axles from Peters spares. Regards Charlie
hi charlie ,another great vid and a great idea combining eveyones top tips ,you can use electrofrog code 75 with code 100 ,peco do short transition pieces . i find sellotape works for a while just a tad fiddly to fit and doesnt last very long .love the hard hat ,cheers .a good moneysaving tip is to buy a huge roll of white wire and a set of coloured permanent markers and use it for wiring points droppers and lights etc
Hi Mick,
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video. Keep the tips coming.
Regards Charlie
another usefull tip is to use 5mm xps laminate foam underlay ,you can use it as a track base instead of cork ,its very versatile you can clad structures with it and engrave different textures and patterns ie stonework/brickwork ,i use it for tunnel mouths ,walls ,buildings ,a base for wagon loads etc ,its around £15 for 10 square metres.
Hi Charlie what transformer do you use for the digitrax.
Thanks
Andy
Digitrax PS 165. Regards Charlie
How long does the polish last before one must replace it? Personally, I would just put the offending rolling stock in my spare parts box and forget about ever running it again. Well diagnosed. Rob
I know what you mean Bob but there are many Hornby locos which have the same issues. Perhaps Ebay remains our last resorts!
Chadwick Model Railway Equipment becomes obsolete over time. Sad but true.
Question do you have to use nail varish or is clear nail polish the same? Thanks
It’s all the same Shane. Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway thank you Charlie. Love your videos very informative
Could you paint the inside's off the wheels with the nailpolis
Perhaps but someone else mentioned a slither of sellotape on the offending rail.
Hi Charlie. Where did you learn all the wiring techniques?. Looks really complex to me. I have just started on a small DCC layout and with all the recommended soldering and wiring I'm going round the bend. Pardon the pun!!.
Hi Dave, it’s very much a “Crawl, Walk, Run” analogy. Take simple baby steps at first, then stop and test. When it goes wrong, which it will, fault finding is easier. Take notes and colour code sensibly. Draw out your plan if you’re unsure, and see if it makes sense first.
Good luck with your layout.
Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway Yes. One step at a time. Think I'll be going back to watch some of you're old videos to get some ideas. Cheers!.
Swap the wheels for some that don't do this?.......Or grind/file the wheels down?.........Just my thoughts.............David
A fair point but these old Lima ones have a different axel length compared to today’s stock. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie
This might sound a bit obvious.... but why didn't you just change the wheels on the Lima coach for some more modern ones?
That will be far more reliable, and you won't have to worry about the nail polish wearing away over time.
Tips and tricks:
I have two.
1: if you need to use superglue [cyanoacrylate], place it on one of those little zip-lock bags you get model spares in... it will take over an hour to dry, which means to you can keep using it without worrying that you'll only get two or three uses with it before having to reapply more superglue because it dried up.
The reason it works is because superglue needs moisture to make it set (which is why it glues your fingers together because of the natural oils in your fingers.
In fact, it was invented for
On a zip-lock bag it doesn't touch anything with moisture on, so if you wrote your name in superglue, after an hour it's still pliable and able to be used.
If you're working on a wet day, then after an hour or so it will start to get a skin on top, where the moisture in the air is causing it to set on the top.
2: I created a nifty mini-sander tool for my modelling out of a cheap electric toothbrush.
The bristles are cut off and a circle of velcro fitted to the rotating head.
To go with it are circles of wet&dry on the oppoisite velcro in different grades... so you can pull a circle of wet&dry off and place it on the mini-sander.
I shows this tool and how I use it in the video below.
czcams.com/video/tF_S2Nq8qdI/video.html
3: Speaking of sanding, I created some miniature sanding blocks by cutting a cork danding block into different pieces, such as small triangles.
Fitted with wet&dry, they can get into the nooks and crannies files can't get to easily.
You can see me using them here:
czcams.com/video/fkzQ9gsxklE/video.html
Cheers
Dave McWilliams
Hi Dave, many thanks for your tips.
The reason for not replacing the wheels is that none fit due to the Lima unique axel length . Regards Charlie
If I recall, Replica Railways do replacement wheelsets for Lima.
Now Charlie your using a lot of your good ladies stuff off of her dresser ,watch she dosent get funny ideas ,if you go for her lipstick next ,youll be in trouble lol,Great presentation again.
Hi John, I'm so pleased that I'm keeping you amused. Happy modelling.
Thanks Charlie,you sure are my friend.
I see you are Peter spares man now, thanks for pointing me in his direction. Have you re-wheeled that parcel coach now?
I certainly have Corin
Wouldn't painting nail varnish on the back face of the Lima wheels achieve the same thing, but without compromising the running of any 0-4-0 or 0-6-0 locos over that diamond?
That a fair point Huw.
Haven’t seen you for a while, how are you guys doing?
We are fine thanks Charlie. Harry is now deep into Computer Games design and has a CZcams channel (under the name Vayso) where he shows off some of his creations. I've been trying to embrace the Photography challenge, but life keeps getting in the way. I've also started a small CZcams channel with some photography videos. I still keep an eye on the club Facebook page, and I enjoy your channel here too. Keep up the good work :)
I’m so pleased that you’re all doing okay and good luck on becoming successful CZcamsrs.
@@ChadwickModelRailway Thanks Charlie. We'll keep watching you.
Could you use a lathe to narrow wheel
Yes a friend will try to machine it down Nigel.
Charlie I have 2 ovals, using Gaugemaster twin track controller DC OO gauge Peco track. Can I install an X crossing to swap tracks or will it cause major damage?
Not at all. Just use one controller during the crossing process.
@@ChadwickModelRailway thank you Charlie, I got my board and timber yesterday and a change of plan!!! It's now an 8x4 instead of 6x4 after my good lady wife asked if it would be better. I feel my hasty reply may cost me 😱
Sounds like your class 37 is in a desperate need of a tune-up. Have you checked the lifters?
You’d better tell Legosoundmanbiffo! 😜
Will applying the rail colour finish do something similar?
It might do but I can’t promise.
That question was mostly from noticing that you were working on an unweathered bit of work. Like as not the clear nail polish would be a best first coat, thne apply rail colour over that. Maybe. Perhaps. Only 2d worth of opinion.
Good point.
Almost seems like something a well placed capacitor might remedy.
Certainly causes some head scratching!
Hi Charlie,
Sorry to trouble you but I have a wiring problem on my new O gauge garden layout.
I have laid all the track and electrofrog points.
I have run the main power to the track but every time i turn on the controller the engine runs along the track for a short while then the reset button on controller blows.
It then resets after 5 seconds.
Just wondered if you've ever had this problem ?
Love all your videos , wish I was as clever as you ha ha ha.
All the best
Duncan.
I’m sorry Duncan, but I don’t think I can help with this one. If it’s DCC, I would have thought it was a overheating decoder issue. Regards, Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway ,
Morning Charlie.
Many thanks for your message.
Actually the layout is analogue so I don’t know if that helps at all.
I think possibly it’s because there is a loop of it at one stage.
I’m sure there is an answer to it somewhere.
Many thanks again for getting back to me anyway.👍🏻🚂
All the best
Duncan.
More droppers might be the answer.
Hello Charlie. I’m a complete novice. I bought a Hornby Flying Scotsman set 00 gauge, cost made me buy addition track off Facebook. Being very competent I cleaned and repaired the track etc and set up a double circle. Two sets of points back to back to change from the inner to outer tracks. This also goes off the a small siding. Further round I put another single set of points to send the train along either inner or outer tracks. All works well except every time my Flying Scotsman train (with or without coaches in tow) crosses the back to back points, on the outer ring only, it shorts out and I get power failure. Can you advise please.
Hi Graham, are you using electro-frog points, without insulating rail joiners on the frogs?
@@ChadwickModelRailway Hello. No, only the Insul points supplied with the set. It’s strange because the train will happily go round and round a few times without fault, then it decides to short out at the frog. I have an internal inspection camera and was able to see it touch the rail. The middle of the 3 axles touches. I have a 2 mm side to side movement on axle 1 and 3 but no 2 the middle has no movement. I understand there must be side movement otherwise the train wouldn’t go around the curves, but is 2mm too much ? I contacted Hornby technical who said it’s within the tolerance, they suggest send them the train so they can inspect it. More expense I can’t afford. What are your thoughts please. Oh, and I have watched loads of your very technical videos and fully understand the concept of insulated and non-insulated frogs, also the dropper wiring etc. this has me baffled.
Hi Graham, can you send me a video clip?
Hello Charlie. I have no idea how to send a video on this system. However, after painstaking and long winded investigation, I found the reason my train shorts out. It has been staring me in the face. Both front and rear axles have a side to side movement of 70thou or roughly 2mm, the middle axle has no visible movement but my dial gauge reads 6thou. I noticed that my train rides up as it goes over the frog. Closer inspection revealed that the middle axle rides over the central frog plastic and touches the other rail. On the flat track I now see that the middle axle wheel on the near side does not touch the near side rail where the off side sit neatly on the rail with the back and front wheels. Somehow I need to widen the space between both mid axle wheels. I also note that this axle is also the drive axle.
I’m so pleased that it’s sorted.
Hi all. Problem withe bus wire on 2 sub distric. the bus wire on the 2 distric won't send power to the rails .when you put a coin on the rail no short happens also engine stall at the gaps between districts and a short happens.
There is a basic fault here JA, it’s not something complicated.
HI CHARLEY I ALSO WATCH OTHER MODEL RAILWAY TRACK BUILDERS AND THE ONE I SAW HE SHOWED HOW 2 CURVE A STRAIGHT TRACK IT WAS A PIECE OF PLASTIC THAT FITTED ON THE 2 TRACKS AND U GRADUALLY CURVED IT AS U RAN IT UP AND THE TRACK U COULD ALSO STRAITEN A CURVED TRACK AS WELL IF I CAN REFINED THE VIDEO I WILL LET U KNOW SO U CAN SEE IF IT WORKS 4 U GRAHAM O PS NOT SURE IF CURVED TRACK COSTS MORE THAN STRAIGHT
The prices are very similar. Tracksetta are the gauges that you refer to. Watch Fridays video mate.
Hi Charlie. I am wondering if you or one of your thousands of followers could help me with a problem? I have a DC tail chaser in the loft with insulfrog points, although it is and end to end at the moment as i have not finished a circuit of track yet. Today with great excitement i got my transformer controller out and wired it up to my droppers, put a loco on the track directly above the droppers, turned the knob and nothing. Checked and redid the wiring still nothing. Got my track tester and placed on the track where the droppers are and no light. Placed the track tester on various other bits of track and connected wires from transformer to the track next to tester and someplaces i got a light and others nothing. I did notice however that occasionally when i connected the second wire to the track there was a small spark. I cannot for the life of me work out what is going on. Unfortunately i live in Okehampton which is the dead centre of Devon in every meaning of the word and my nearest model shop or model railway club is miles away. I know that an experienced modeller would take one look at it and know immediately what is wrong. I know that remote diagnostics are very difficult if not impossible, but any help or pointers would be very useful. Thanks in advance. Kelvin.
Hi Kevin, I’m sure this problem is easier to solve than you think. It’s really just a case of isolating pieces of track until you find the one that is causing a probable short. You just need to take a more methodical approach to finding the fault. Regards, Charlie
Re wheel?? I use bachman wheels on some Lima pga.., nicer wheels and No more shorts!
Hi Mark, are you fitting the Bachmann wheels on to the original Lima axels?
Wait, is your model railway based in the Western region (because, my N gauge layout project is based in the Western Region...)
It certainly is Dominic. I have a feast of Diesel Hydraulics waiting in the wings.
Awesome, Is it based near the GWML (because that's what mine I based on..)
I grew up in Swindon and was spotting around 1970. Pre TOPS is my thing but at no real location. I grew up on London Street which is part of Brunel’s Railway Village. Hence my lust for the West Country. Regards Charlie
Same for me, I really, really love the West. I'm mainly based in Exeter, although my heart is mainly set on Dawlish. Which also makes me sad that they're allocating IETs on all the Intercity routes, I personally think the Westerns and Warships are best suited to the intercity routes.
Instead of using nail varnish I used super glue on my diamond crossings, it does not come off.
Great tip John. Regards Charlie
Could you not just use black insulation tape trimmed on the metal rail
Time has moved on and I have changed the axels.
Is there anyway you could just put traction tyres on the offending coach?
It's a good point Leo and well worth some thought, Regards Charlie
Charlie, I like the hard hat. You have also damaged your hand! Where do you get the 'choc blocks' from? Your wife must have no makeup left!
Rest assured Nigel, my wife is not short of nail polish! For the choc block, check out Squires. They go to most of the big shows. The other injury is a ruptured ganglion. It’s better now. Good luck with your layout. Regards Charlie
Patience of a saint Charlie! Loool! Congrats on being a sexagenarian and just to let you know the hand and lots of other bits will now start to fall off the wagon mate! Loooool! All the best. John
Hi John, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video.
Clearly I’m starting to fall apart .....
God help us! Regards Charlie
I also think that perhaps a yellow hard hat might b a worthwhile addition to your collection Charlie! 😳😆 U c that’s wot makes ur videos so real Charlie, u n ur mistakes n a huffin’ n a puffin’ like an old billy goat whilst ur struggling to do things! 😆 All the best. John
My tip is a simple one really, as i mentioned about led signals, the correct colour wavelength for the green aspect is 525nm, not olive green. and should be operated at 1.7v for correct brightness here is a video demonstrating various colour wavelengths czcams.com/video/Phb_d3Qz4Ew/video.html
Wow, that is very interesting.
Why not change the wheelsets. I’m baffled.
It’s a great point Richard but I wanted to try other cheaper options first.
Good luck with your layout.
Regards Charlie
two wires they told me
But you didn’t believe them did you?
Good luck with your layout. Regards Charlie
Great fix.
Well done.
A piece of advice.
Stop blaming or referring to stealing or hiding stuff from your wife.
All items that she has are readily available from Outlet stores.
Making it gender specific is putting your wife down.
Just an observation from another woman.
I know you men feel it is necessary. But it really it isn't.
Thanks very much, that is clearly sound advice. Regards, Charlie
Is your layout abusing you when the camera isn't running? Blink one for yes, twice for no! ;-)
Hi Davie, blink, blink, blink!