Hi Brian, I like your no nonsence vids. I have a 1970 T100c imported from the States. (I'm in New zealand) Had this bike for 30 Yrs now. Love it. A lot of the work you have done/are doing to your bike I have done. 1970/1969 very similar although not the same. Beautiful bike.
Hi Gary, in Australia for a few more months and maybe NZ on the way home to see my eldest son who lives in New Plymouth. Enjoying the trip but missing riding the bikes. A couple more jobs to do on the Daytona and will be starting a new project when l get back, lts a 1962 BSA C15T, l had the same model a few years ago and converted from trials to a road bike which l used as my daily ride to work. The plan was to convert it back to trials when l retired as l kept all the bits l swapped over, however l sold it to fund a Tiger Cub project, but wish l had kept it, so this C15T will be put back as close to standard as l can. Enjoy your T100C, they are a lovely bike to ride. Regards Brian.
Interesting series on your lovely T100. 45 years ago I fitted a 22 tooth sprocket by filing 22 notches in the case! I've recently changed it for a 20 tooth. It has a 43 tooth rear sprocket and runs great with this gearing even 2 up.
Hi David, when l was researching what sprockets were available there was a guy on one of the Triumph forums who had fitted a 22 but said there was a tad of filling to get it through the hole (maybe it was you?) but quite happy with the 19t. Still have a couple of jobs to on the T100, will be fitting electronic ignition and making a new wiring harness, however l am away at the moment for another couple of months, but have bought the parts ready for when l am back. Nice to hear you have had your T100 over 45 years, they are a lovely bike to ride. Regards Brian
Absolutely, lot of farm land around here as well and the farmers like to bring as much mud off the fields onto the road with the tractors as they can. Been out this morning on the Daytona for a blast, the roads are a bit drier, but I think the tyres (although they look like new) are a few years old and the rubber has gone a tad hard. I have moved the gear lever up a couple of splines as I was struggling with the upshift between 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th as thought it was my riding boots with the instep from the footpeg not allowing me to get under the lever properly, but something not right somewhere so will have to take the outer cover off the gearbox for a quick look.
I love your jubilee clip trick, so obvious I never thought of it! Will use over winter when I replace gearbox seal at mainshaft. Also your trick of sealing the sprocket I will also do, as I’m just not sure where this small leak is coming from on my T140… it’s just annoying, not drastic. I had the same issue with the stator nuts as you when I stripped the primary. Turns out the stator was a cheap far eastern copy which left pretty much no space for the socket. I upgraded anyway to a high output from Lucas and that issue disappeared! I’ve thought about changing the front sprocket also but am just not sure at the moment, but I don’t do a lot of high speed on the bike, more twisty mountain roads. Thanks for the tips
I put 20 on a 1960 T100a, had to grind off a bit on the casing to get it in but otherwise no problems. On a 1963 T100SS and a 1968 T100 a 20 went straight in without any grinding needed.
Hi Brian As I told you earlier I put a 20 tooth sprocket on my Datona which droped the revs by about 1000 rpm at 60mph it is at 4250 rpm in top and it still pulls away 2 up no problem what revs are you pulling at 60mph? You can put the clutch drum on by fitting the front engine sprocket first then fit the clutch hub and then stick the thrust washer to the hub with grease then put the chain over the front sprocket then loop it over the clutch drum and manover the clutch drum over the output shaft a rest the drum on the clutch hub using grease start putting the rollers in the gap at the bottom as they fill the gap start pushing the roller around the hub/basket until all the rollers are in and there is no need for a third hand. I like the videos and some good tips Thanks
19T makes it easier keeping the front wheel down in first. 20T I found I was forever up and down the box on rural A roads. I stuck to 19T since. 6k RPM I'm cruising about 80 mph. I tried a 21T many years ago and it just knocked the guts out of it. These are revvy little donk and their character changes if, once in 2nd gear, you change gear at 6k RPM. 21T may be ok for long straight roads like Aus or US but we need a bit of flexibility
I have only had a chance to have a couple of rides out since fitting it and now in Australia for 7 months (without the Daytona) However very happy with the 19t as it’s made quite a difference and here in Cornwall it’s a lot of stop starts and narrow low speed roads, plus l hope to get the better half included for a few local rides as pillion. Only been away a week and missing the bikes already. Thanks for you input, regards Brian
Hi Brian, I have just purchased a 19 tooth sprocket to do the same mod on a similar bike. Was your chain long enough after fitting the new 19T sprocket?
Hi Colin, yes l used the original chain, l was concerned that l might have to buy a new chain with an extra couple of links, but the original chain fitted with still a margin of adjustment. Hopefully it will be the same for yours. Regards Brian
I also had to use a very thin walled socket to get at the bolts that held my stator in place on my 1964 TR6. A regular socket won't work. I've read that's just how it is.
I didn't seem to have the issue with my BSA B25 and B50 which has the same Lucas RM21 stator, so I had a look in the parts book, the 3 mounting studs are 5/16" (unc) where they screw into the casing and the diameter of the plain area of the stud is 5/16" where it locates in the holes of the stator, but then they reduce down to 1/4" (unf) for the 3 nuts, so the nuts are 7/16" AF so the socket you need goes on with no interference.
Hi Brian,
I like your no nonsence vids. I have a 1970 T100c imported from the States. (I'm in New zealand) Had this bike for 30 Yrs now. Love it. A lot of the work you have done/are doing to your bike I have done. 1970/1969 very similar although not the same. Beautiful bike.
Hi Gary, in Australia for a few more months and maybe NZ on the way home to see my eldest son who lives in New Plymouth. Enjoying the trip but missing riding the bikes. A couple more jobs to do on the Daytona and will be starting a new project when l get back, lts a 1962 BSA C15T, l had the same model a few years ago and converted from trials to a road bike which l used as my daily ride to work. The plan was to convert it back to trials when l retired as l kept all the bits l swapped over, however l sold it to fund a Tiger Cub project, but wish l had kept it, so this C15T will be put back as close to standard as l can. Enjoy your T100C, they are a lovely bike to ride. Regards Brian.
Interesting series on your lovely T100. 45 years ago I fitted a 22 tooth sprocket by filing 22 notches in the case! I've recently changed it for a 20 tooth. It has a 43 tooth rear sprocket and runs great with this gearing even 2 up.
Hi David, when l was researching what sprockets were available there was a guy on one of the Triumph forums who had fitted a 22 but said there was a tad of filling to get it through the hole (maybe it was you?) but quite happy with the 19t. Still have a couple of jobs to on the T100, will be fitting electronic ignition and making a new wiring harness, however l am away at the moment for another couple of months, but have bought the parts ready for when l am back. Nice to hear you have had your T100 over 45 years, they are a lovely bike to ride.
Regards Brian
Watch those autumn leaves Brian, nice job.
Absolutely, lot of farm land around here as well and the farmers like to bring as much mud off the fields onto the road with the tractors as they can. Been out this morning on the Daytona for a blast, the roads are a bit drier, but I think the tyres (although they look like new) are a few years old and the rubber has gone a tad hard. I have moved the gear lever up a couple of splines as I was struggling with the upshift between 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th as thought it was my riding boots with the instep from the footpeg not allowing me to get under the lever properly, but something not right somewhere so will have to take the outer cover off the gearbox for a quick look.
Nice Video Brian
I am glad you are happy with what you have done.
All worth it in the end.
Thanks.
I love your jubilee clip trick, so obvious I never thought of it! Will use over winter when I replace gearbox seal at mainshaft. Also your trick of sealing the sprocket I will also do, as I’m just not sure where this small leak is coming from on my T140… it’s just annoying, not drastic. I had the same issue with the stator nuts as you when I stripped the primary. Turns out the stator was a cheap far eastern copy which left pretty much no space for the socket. I upgraded anyway to a high output from Lucas and that issue disappeared! I’ve thought about changing the front sprocket also but am just not sure at the moment, but I don’t do a lot of high speed on the bike, more twisty mountain roads. Thanks for the tips
Nice one, mate. Lovely job and a lovely bike.
Thanks.
I put 20 on a 1960 T100a, had to grind off a bit on the casing to get it in but otherwise no problems. On a 1963 T100SS and a 1968 T100 a 20 went straight in without any grinding needed.
Hi Brian As I told you earlier I put a 20 tooth sprocket on my Datona which droped the revs by about 1000 rpm at 60mph it is at 4250 rpm in top and it still pulls away 2 up no problem what revs are you pulling at 60mph? You can put the clutch drum on by fitting the front engine sprocket first then fit the clutch hub and then stick the thrust washer to the hub with grease then put the chain over the front sprocket then loop it over the clutch drum and manover the clutch drum over the output shaft a rest the drum on the clutch hub using grease start putting the rollers in the gap at the bottom as they fill the gap start pushing the roller around the hub/basket until all the rollers are in and there is no need for a third hand. I like the videos and some good tips Thanks
19T makes it easier keeping the front wheel down in first. 20T I found I was forever up and down the box on rural A roads. I stuck to 19T since. 6k RPM I'm cruising about 80 mph. I tried a 21T many years ago and it just knocked the guts out of it. These are revvy little donk and their character changes if, once in 2nd gear, you change gear at 6k RPM. 21T may be ok for long straight roads like Aus or US but we need a bit of flexibility
I have only had a chance to have a couple of rides out since fitting it and now in Australia for 7 months (without the Daytona) However very happy with the 19t as it’s made quite a difference and here in Cornwall it’s a lot of stop starts and narrow low speed roads, plus l hope to get the better half included for a few local rides as pillion. Only been away a week and missing the bikes already. Thanks for you input, regards Brian
Hi Brian, I have just purchased a 19 tooth sprocket to do the same mod on a similar bike. Was your chain long enough after fitting the new 19T sprocket?
Hi Colin, yes l used the original chain, l was concerned that l might have to buy a new chain with an extra couple of links, but the original chain fitted with still a margin of adjustment. Hopefully it will be the same for yours.
Regards Brian
A 21 will go through with a small amount of filing for the teeth. Happy days
Spot on to get the 21t in the space.
I also had to use a very thin walled socket to get at the bolts that held my stator in place on my 1964 TR6.
A regular socket won't work. I've read that's just how it is.
I didn't seem to have the issue with my BSA B25 and B50 which has the same Lucas RM21 stator, so I had a look in the parts book, the 3 mounting studs are 5/16" (unc) where they screw into the casing and the diameter of the plain area of the stud is 5/16" where it locates in the holes of the stator, but then they reduce down to 1/4" (unf) for the 3 nuts, so the nuts are 7/16" AF so the socket you need goes on with no interference.