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I was in Douglas IOM in 1969 to watch the production race over the weekend, at the B&B where we were staying at was a guy with a brand new K0. He started it up for us and gave it a red line blast down the prom, it was a gorgeous looking bike, he had taken the removable baffles out for his trip to IOM to watch the TT and the sound was awesome. The early CB750 was the bike l always wanted but was always beyond my reach. In 69 I was 16 and had just started my 4 year apprenticeship and could only afford a 1961 Tiger Cub, l passed my test the year later and stretched myself cash wise to a 1967 T90 which was on offer with a good trade in price for the Cub, but could only dream of owning CB750. A well restored K0 can now be over 25k, so still well beyond my reach. Regards Brian

@@TheCADengineer the CB 750 is top of my I should have kept that list alongside my 1970 range rover classic ( Number 118) I sold it to a mate when I moved over to France 18 years ago who never got around to restoring it and sadly it's no more,I still have my 91 RRC as a daily driver had that 20 plus years now, it's good to see another man in a shed working on their passion.

Hi Ben, l think the majority of 1967 to 70 T100R’s have the chokes fitted, the choke lever is part of the front brake lever assembly as it’s the top half of the clamp, but when you look at the 1971 and on T100R’s that have indicators and the aluminium handlebar switch gear and levers there is no choke fitted. However now l am familiar with starting and riding the bike you definitely don’t need a choke anyway, from cold turn on the fuel tap, a light tickle to the carbs and it starts first time every time. Maybe Triumph eventually realised that the choke is not required! Regards Brian

Will do, Thanks.

@@tristenbryson8805 Hi Tristan, On your 2011 there are brake shoes on the inside of the rotor discs, you will probably have to remove the shoes. Once the shoes are out of the way the the procedure is the same. Have a search on CZcams on replacing the handbrake shoes on the Freelander 2 so you know what to expect. Regards, Brian.

@@TheCADengineer Thank you I am going to do them today!

Hi Dave, The paints are from Auto Colour Direct from ebay, the basecoat blue is 'RENAULT BLEU MAJORELLE BLUE code RPB 2K BASECOAT' You also need the 2K clear topcoat. The basecoat aerosol is 400ml which is enough to do a petrol tank and 2 side covers and the 2K clear coat is a 500ml aerosol which is more than enough. Here is the link. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/145785564057?var=444879798501 Regards, Brian.

Hi, All Tiger Cub's were 200cc with a bore and stroke of 63x64mm and right up to the end of production in the late 60's, and all were 6 volt electrics with positive earth/ground. A lot of owners converted them to 12 volts as the lighting at 6 volts was very poor if you were riding at night. You can fit an alloy big bore cylinder kit for Triumph Tiger Cub that uses a Triumph Trident piston to take it to 230cc, but if you want to go to 250cc you need to also fit the modified crankshaft kit that has a longer stroke, however both kits are aftermarket and nothing to do with the Triumph factory. You may be thinking of the single cylinder BSA Starfire which was 250cc with 12 volt electrics. I have had a couple of Tiger Cub's in the past and still own a 1969 Starfire and the Starfire is a far better bike, however the engine is still copied from Edward Turner's original design of the Cub engine, just 50cc larger and better engineered. Regards, Brian.

Hi Paul, I did look at fitting a Premier pilot as I have a couple of 2 and 3 band jets in my spares box, however drilling the hole would be quite complicated as the jet runs through 90 degrees where the 4 holes in the side of the jet need to be inline with the cross drilling then at the bottom of the hole you need to have a taper to seat at the bottom end of the jet, plus behind the threads you need to drill a plain section for the jets o ring to seal against to stop air being drawn past the threads. I think it can be done, I think that area is the best place for the fuel pilot restriction just before the chamber where the 2 small holes are drilled at the venturi as the carbs with the removable pilot jet above the float bowl seem to need a choke slide fitted for cold start as the restricted fuel flow has a greater distance to be drawn from the vacuum of the venturi and thats why Amal made the change to the pilot jets position on the Premier. Regards, Brian.

@@TheCADengineer thank you for your answer. I was under the impression that the premiere carbs had the pilot jet in the same spot as the carb you drilled out and then punched out the pilot jet. Only difference being the jet is attached to a removable screw. But you say the plumbing is different and would have to be tapered also. Sounds like it's really not worth trying it. I hear you can drill out the plug, clean your pilot jet and tap the drilled hole and screw in a small substitute plug (maybe sealed with yellow Teflon or something. That way you can get to the back part of the pilot jet.( the side you were having an issue with. I believe you covered that in vid. Thanks again. Paul.

@@pauliebots Hi Paul, Regarding re-blanking the holes, I turned up a bit of alli with a slight taper to make the plugs and knocked them into the holes with a smer of Loctite. If I ever need to remove the plugs they will tap out from the other side with the air pilot screw removed, hopefully I won't need to though. Regards, Brian.

Hi Mike, Those numbers are for the early 1967 Daytona's which are Amal Monobloc's, my video is for the later 67 onwards carbs which are Amal Concentrics. The carbs are totally different, the Monobloc (which is fitted to your Daytona) is where the float chamber is part of the main body (one piece carb 'Monobloc') Whereas the Concentric has a removable float chamber where the main jet is concentric with the centre of the removable float chamber. If you search on CZcams for Amal Monobloc 376 you should find info on stripping, cleaning and adjusting your carbs as they were fitted to lots of different BSA and Triumph's. Regards, Brian.

Hi Mike, the kits are the same for the left or right handed carbs, however on a 1967 Daytona you may have Amal Monobloc carbs not the later Amal Concentric carbs as per my video. They only fitted the Amal Concentrics in the latter part of 1969, before then they were fitted with the earlier Amal Monobloc carbs which are totally different.

Hi Chuck, The plus for you is the pressure side of the pump must working fine as the scavenging section of the pump is overwhelmed as the scavenge section of the pump delivers about 25% more oil flow than the pressure side. I would be looking at some kind of restriction in the oil return side. I would remove the sump plate to make sure there is no restriction in the gauze filter and that there is clearance between the bottom of the suction pipe and the sump plate, also check that you can lift the ball in the suction tube. If all that looks ok then remove the oil pipe manifold from the bottom of the crankcase and make sure there is no restriction in the return line pipework or the elbow that goes into the oil tank. Let us know what you find. Regards, Brian.

I replaced the scavenge anti-siphon valve and checked and cleaned the other anti-siphon valves, blew out all the lines to make sure no clogs, put it back together and restarted it. The return flow is now steady and increasing with rpm. Looks like problem solved. The scavenge valve was very corroded and I'll bet it was not getting good suction on the sump, causing the wet sumping. It was a real bear to change, tried tap and thread and it would not budge. I finally resorted to drilling it out and fitting a new valve with some blue loctite to prevent air leaks. I hope that is the answer! Regards Chuck.

@@chuckhollingsworth4186 Hi Chuck, Looks like you have sorted out the problem, if it's a later version B25 you may have the the drilling and blanking plug in the front of the inner timing case where you can fit a pressure gauge just to what oil pressure you have. (not on the early engines) Regards, Brian.

Hi, With your 12v coils did you measure the ohms value of the primary windings? I was also thinking of using the original 12v coils to keep down the expense, however they would need to be wired in parallel to maintain a good spark, but the ohms resistance of the primary windings on my coils were 4.5 ohms each, this would give a total resistance value of 2.25 ohms for both coils in parallel and the 2.25 ohms at 12 volts gives a current draw through the electronic black box of 5.3 amps, it may have been fine but in the instructions it says the max current draw through the unit should be no more then 5 amps. I also looked at the battery voltage when the bike was running, with no lights switched on and with the engine running at 2,500 rpm, the charge rate at the battery was 14.2 volts, so the 2.25 ohms of the primary windings of my two 12 volt coils at 14.2 volts would have meant I have 6.3 amps running through the electronic black box which may have caused damage, hence opting for the two 6 volt coils wired in series as per the diagram in the instructions. The two 6 volt coils I bought have a primary resistance value of 1.5 ohms each, the the total value in series is 3 ohms, so at 12 volts its drawing 4 amps and at the max charging voltage of 14.2 its 4.7 amps which is inside the recommended value, so hopefully fit and forget with no future issues. Regards, Brian.

@@TheCADengineer Total resistance of my 12v coils which are wired in series not parallel is 9.8 ohms. The Wassell instructions do say 'For road applications two 12 volt coils in series are satisfactory' I initially thought this was a misprint but I also found this in online instructions. According to forums the only downside to 12v coils in series maybe weaker spark under load. Agee that it's probably not a good idea to have them in parallel.

Never thought of a mirror, very ingenious solution.

Hi Dave, I have fitted Boyer, Pazon and Trispark, they all have the pluses and minuses, but like you say; the stator is fully enclosed unlike the Pazon and Boyer where the exposed coils look very vulnerable to damage or condensation, however I think the operating principle is the same and the advance is just down to the air gap of the magnets on the rotor and the iron poles of the 2 coils 'the faster they spin the greater the VPP of the sine wave so the spark happens earlier. Regards, Brian.

Hi John, Thanks for your positive response. Regards, Brian.

Hi, I can't remember what exact model it was from as it was a secondhand purchase, however it maybe from the later B25 oil in frame version which has the box style pressed steel silencer on the right hand side where the exhaust pipe comes on the inside of the frame under the oil tank (1971 BSA B25 OIF version) p/n 71-2176, which would be exactly the same as the TR25 as the the Triumph version was the later B25, but just re-badged with a different shaped fuel tank.

Thanks,really enjoy your videos!

Hi Chuck, I just found the receipt for the secondhand r/h high level exhaust, it's from a BSA B44. I should have remembered as the B44 uses the same frame as the pre oil in frame B25, plus the outside diameter is the same; as is the angle it comes out of the cylinder head. I have just done a slight mod to the pipe about 60mm from the rear end, I cut a 'V' out and bent it in and re-welded so the silencer is closer to the rear shock and not sticking out so much.

Hi Rob, no metric threads on any Triumphs of this era, most fine threads are UNF and course threads are UNC, however some of the engine components have BSF and BSCY threads. Triumph changed some thread forms from BSF/BSCY to UNF/UNC around 1967 and have a mix of the two, BSA did the same although a year or two later, but no metric threads. The Triumph was sold to me as a 1969 bike, however when l got the dating certificate from the Triumph owners club it states the bike was manufactured in December 1968, so the American title that came with the bike states manufactured in 1969, that should really say it was shipped out of the UK in 69 not manufactured. Regards Brian.

Hi Les, You are right l should fit a kill switch, however trying to keep the bike looking as original as possible from the outside, it has the original factory fitted Lucas 31563 combination dip, main and horn handlebar switch and l don’t want to fit anything else that will not look original. On the last two BSA’s that l have done were fitted originally the Wipac Ducon handlebar switch (dip, main and horn) you can swap this switch for the Wipac Tricon which looks exactly the same, but has an extra push button that l use for the engine kill, however Triumph never used the Wipac switch, so no engine kill switch will be fitted on the Daytona, just relying on turning the ignition off if l have an issue. Regards, Brian.

Hi, Should be fine, I have an RM21 stator with a Lucas solid state regulator/rectifier and a lifepo4 battery, so the charge rate is good, however will be doing checks and some testing of the EI system before fitting. Regards, Brian.

Hi Michael, The bike runs on the pilot jet circuits up to 1/4 throttle before the main jets and slide needles takes over, so well worth taking off the carbs and giving them a good clean and blow through the pilot galleries with carb cleaner. A good indicator for a fuel restriction in the pilot circuit is if the splutter is reduced if you keep a bit of choke applied while riding. Just check that the petrol is ok first, especially if it’s E5 or E10 and has been standing the tank for a few months. Also the basic stuff first; like clean and gap the plugs, points gaps and the ignition timing, if all that is fine then carbs off for a good clean. Regards, Brian.

Hi Colin, yes; shifting is now precise up or down. I think my issue was the combination of the two problems l found. It’s not too bad a job to get to the selector mechanism as you only need to remove the outer cover, hopefully yours will be a simple fix and you don’t have to strip the gearbox. Regards Brian

Hopefully you will have no issues. Regards Brian

Hi Colin, yes l used the original chain, l was concerned that l might have to buy a new chain with an extra couple of links, but the original chain fitted with still a margin of adjustment. Hopefully it will be the same for yours. Regards Brian

Enjoy you 64 Triumph, thanks for the kind words, regards Brian

Hi David, when l was researching what sprockets were available there was a guy on one of the Triumph forums who had fitted a 22 but said there was a tad of filling to get it through the hole (maybe it was you?) but quite happy with the 19t. Still have a couple of jobs to on the T100, will be fitting electronic ignition and making a new wiring harness, however l am away at the moment for another couple of months, but have bought the parts ready for when l am back. Nice to hear you have had your T100 over 45 years, they are a lovely bike to ride. Regards Brian

Yep, had a few comments about the rockers being fitted the wrong way around, l have done the in situ repair which is good, however also bought another rocker shaft but would need to slacken a couple of the head bolts to swap them around. As the oil leak repair is good and the engine is running very well l am going to leave it and if l have to do any serious engine work on her l will swap the rockers and fit the new shaft. Regards Brian

The thrust washer sits on a small lip on in the inside diameter of the hub and is generally a tight fit and normally there is no reason to remove it. The reason for the washer is the lip of the 2 different diameters where the washer sits is very slight and the outer of the ball bearing race has a radius, this radius would not sit properly against the small step, so by the fitment of the washer against the step gives a wide square surface for the bearing to sit. If all is fitted correctly on that side then when the bearing retainer is screwed down fully it should come flush, if the washer is missing the retainer will screw down below the surface, this will then allow the inner edge of the brake plate to rub on the outer edge of the brake drum. Sorry for the slow reply to this as I am still on my trip driving around Australia and have had no mobile or internet connection for quite a few days. Regards Brian

@@TheCADengineer Thanks Brian. It all sits nicely so I shan't take it apart again to look! Enjoy Oz, "Always fill up when you get to half tank" was the advice we had. Loved the place and am jealous.

It sounds like a jet engine, but it’s the fan and combustion roar of my diesel heater, it runs on full blast until the workshop gets to 20 degrees then throttles right down to just a slight background hum, but lovely and warm in winter. Thanks for you positive response, regards Brian

Thanks for your positive response, regards Brian

Hi Kevin, Yes should be on BSA B25 Starfire Crankshaft Rebuild Part 2, link below, Regards Brian. czcams.com/video/0LY547rcJzg/video.htmlsi=_dmHNclMrDDKNL-Q

@@TheCADengineer thank you! How about any video showing removal of the crankshaft/connecting rod assy from the case?

Hi Kevin, Sorry no, only the inspection of the crankshaft and connecting rod. You don’t need to remove the the flywheels from the crankshaft, l had to do this on mine as the sludge/debris trap plug was so tight it was either drill out the plug or remove the flywheel to clean the trap. Remove of the crankshaft from the cases is no too difficult, remove the alternator rotor and primary drive sprocket from the clutch side, and the timing gear and oil pump helix from the timing side. Remove all the bolts and nuts from the two halves of the crankcases and the left case should lift off easily leaving the crankshaft in the r/h case. Then gently tap the crankshaft out, take great care when tapping out the crankshaft by using a block of timber on the end of the crankshaft as it’s so easy to damage the end where the oil feed comes in. The link below is the crankshaft inspection. Regards Brian. czcams.com/video/op-GNfPsjnQ/video.htmlsi=EJp1G7tKoDfej24j

Thanks for your positive response, regards Brian

Spot on, regards Brian

@@TheCADengineerFortunately my previous owner had cut a slot in one arm of the circlip that holds the bearing in the brake drum, but that bearing did not want to come out!

Hi Tony, yes it looks like l struggled to grip the hub in the vice and dropping hub into the wheel would make it a lot easier, also l made and replaced the jaws in my big bench vice from soft mild steel as l use it mainly for my motorcycle stuff where l don’t want to mark the material l am gripping. I don’t edit any of my videos so all my mistakes and cockups are in there. Hopefully someone who is doing the wheel bearing job will read the comments and find your comment very useful. Regards Brian

I bought the Haldex service kit from Bell Engineering, you get the filter, filter end cap with O ring, the 2 filter mounting screw and the big O ring where it mounts on the diff. I had to phone them to order the kit as there’s 2 types for gen 3 or gen 4, l think the filters are a different length better the 2 types.

Hi Antonh, sorry but l am in Australia until June and the FL2 workshop manual l have is at home in the UK. Regards Brian

Hi Alex, normally you only need a puller to remove the timing gear from the none drive side of the crank, l have a small 2 legged puller that I ground the feet down on to get under the gear. Once the gear is off the oil pump worm drive should slide off by hand, you may need to give it a pry with a small screwdriver. If it’s that tight or the crank is tight in the main bearing then heat is the only way without doing any damage. With the drive side casing removed place suitable sized wooden blocks on the edge of the casing either side of the crank flywheels. Then heat the case concentrating the heat in the area of the main roller bearing. I don’t think you will achieve enough temperature with a heat gun, a gas blowtorch would be the best option. The melting point of aluminium is around 700c and you will never get to that temperature with a gas blowtorch, so give the case plenty of heat and use a soft drift like aluminium, brass or copper on the end of the crankshaft and the outer bearing will come out with the crank. The end of the crankshaft is where the oil feed goes in to lube the big end so don’t attempt to knock out the shaft without a drift that’s made from a soft material as it will be easily deformed and is normally something you shouldn’t do, but in your case it looks like you have no option. Even if you have a hydraulic press you would still need to heat the case and use a soft drift on the end of the crankshaft. Once the crankshaft is out you will still need to remove the bearing from the crankshaft and will struggle to get it started to get a puller under the edge, so you may have to use a sharp chisel to make the gap to get the puller in. Once you have the bearing and pump drive off clean up the shaft and faces with wet&dry so it goes back easier. On assembly you will need to fit the main bearing into the case first and you will need to heat the case again with the blowtorch to fit it as the bearing has to be a tight fit in the case otherwise the outer race of the bearing will spin in aluminium case when the engine gets hot. I am sure you will manage it. Regards Brian

Yes, l think the very early 7”TLS hubs have the circular threaded collar and all the later ones have the slim hex nut. Maybe cheaper to manufacture the slim hex nut than the threaded collar, plus you don’t need to make the peg tool. Regards Brian

@@TheGreyNomads-dr8jwThanks Brian, I've actually got a new old stock hub and thought it best to take the bearings out and re-grease after all these years before using it. I'm also looking forward to seeing what dust shields the bearings have, the old seperate metal ones or new one's integral with the bearing.

Glad you like them!

Thanks!

Thanks, nearly finished, new wiring harness to make and electronic ignition to fit when l get back to the UK.