Torque Wrench Calibration DIY EASY! + Stripdown + Fix
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- čas přidán 10. 11. 2014
- Here is how to strip, lubricate and recalibrate your torque wrench using stuff that you may already have around your home or garage. So in others words can be FREE! And of course DIY.
As accurate as your accuracy of weighing weighs.
A bit long but then it does cover the complete dismantling and rebuild of a typical torque wrench, followed by torque calibration,with an accurate torque measuring / torque setup technique.
My own torque wrench was so far out, about 20 lbft low, that it contributed to my loose wheels nuts! So essential to get the right torque. All fixed and correctly calibrated now.
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Funny this was exactly the way I used to check my HF torque wrench a while ago. I was not looking for the accuracy, but just to conform if my torque wrench was still functioning and was in the ball park.
Thanks I'm going to try this today and see how it works out.. Good job.
Now this is very helpful indeed! You sir, are a gentleman and a scholar.
Cheers!
Thanks! I've got a cheapy that isn't clicking at all and was wondering first how to even take the thing apart to see why it's not clicking. So, once again, good ol' YT and contributors like you come thru! And the calibration technique is also great (I was thinking I would just take it apart to see what its problem was - not realizing I'd have to re-calibrate it)! So thanks again.
cheers,
jt
John Thomas Thanks! Glad it helped.
Thankyou for taking the time to film this video mate.
I have been trying to work out how to calibrate all 3 of my torque wrenches for ages.
Amazing what you can learn on CZcams.
Matt
Thanks. It's nice to get feedback.
this video is just i was looking for, thank a lot!!!
Cheers, glad to help.
Thanks for this. Just helped me sort mine too.
Paul Kilgour Great, thanks for the feedback.
Thanks man, great info.
Cheers
Thanks for this - was useful to see one disassembled
Cheers
"reverse engineered"
😎
Thank you.....and Well done
Thank you.
very good video I used this method. To check calibration off two large norbars 750 lbs foot wrenchs. using 65 bls gas bottle as a weight
Thanks, good to read.
Great vid and explanation! Are you an engineer of sorts? You seem extremely knowledgeable on pretty much all areas of life lol. Was always taught to release spring tension not just with torque wrenches.
Thanks. Yes of sorts.
really enjoyed your vid. reminds me how i took toasters and washing machines apart. i always knew what i was doing untill i plugged them back in again,,,,,,,,,, you went a bit mad professor with the maths though. i understand that a weight at a distance will make a set amount of torque, but i might go see my other mad friend with a new snap on wrench, or find someone with a digital thing to set mine. thanks for the vid though. keep them coming. your a natural ha ha
Cheers
Thank you for the detailed information. I need to do this a well. Q: the weight of the bar is actually distributed. Thus should we need to consider this applied / multiplied to half lenght of the bar? Thank you for your feedback!
+Mihail Olariu Hi, thanks for watching. Yes the weight is distributed so you see at time 15:53 that the distance to the half way point is used, not the total length, when calculating the torque due to the weight of the bar.
Thank you for posting this, it's been a great help.
As you have added the torque effect of the mass of the bar, shouldn't you also allow for the mass of the wrench itself, acting in the opposite direction.
I like the way you have thought about other effects, but actually no additional correction is needed, because... Yes the wrench is applying some torque, but the wrench measures torque at the head of the wrench as a twisting force. The weight of the wrench just apples a small extra preload to the end of the wrench. So if the wrench weight contributes say 2llbft to the wrench end, then my hand pressing on the wrench only has to supply an extra 28llbft in order that the end of the wrench feels 30llbft in total, and if the bar and weights equal 30llbft then the end of the wrench will click if it is set to 30llbft and correctly calibrated.
I hope you can follow the reasoning. Or in other words: The only thing the wrench weight effects is the amount of force I need to apply by my hand. I.e. Is the wrench weight helping me or fighting me. The torque felt as a twisting torque at it the wrench head will only be determined by the weight/length of the bar and weights, not the torque wrench length or weight.
Thanks for commenting though it's good to talk through these things.
Thank you for a very explicit response. I understand your logic. Very informative.
@@comeinhandynow 7
Thanks sir.
Cheers.
Great
All I'm gonna say is. Damn you had to have a special mind to assemble this.
👍 👍 👍 Good vidéo
Hello,
I have a torque wrench broken at the head because I forced during a tightening, I changed the broken part but it does not click anymore during tightening.
Thank you for telling me give your opinion on the problem.
CORDIALLY
Check that the new part moves freely inside the wrench when the spring is slackened all the way off. The clicking is made by the internal rod moving from side to side overcoming the pressure from the spring so it releases in a sudden give, making a click.
You have a beam type torque wrench which is very accurate. You could have used it to precisely torque, say, a wheel lug nut, and then adjusted the clicker wrench using that nut as a reference. But how do you keep the adjustment screw from moving as you put on the lock nut?
True but it is also nice to know if the beam wrench has been made and calibrated correctly. It was a cheap one. To stop the calibration nut from turning when you do up the lock nut you could tighten the locking shaft in the center. 21:27 on video.
@@comeinhandynow I see, just tighten the same knurled-knob locking screw that you use to lock the torque setting in place, that you use to keep the torque adjustment handle from turning - it keeps the adjustment barrel from turning. It is a valuable experience to check your beam wrenches, just for the hell of it. I use a similar method to torque 240 foot pound axle nuts, as I don't have a torque wrench that reads that high. But truthfully, those beam wrenches don't go out of calibration during their lifetime. Even if the pointer is no longer at zero when the wrench is not being used, you can just bend the pointer to zero and the thing will remain accurate. The calibration at the factory is set at the middle of the range, so with a 150 pound-foot bendy-beam torque wrench, it will be most accurate at about 75 pound-feet. Once it's set it will change very little during its lifetime, unless you do something like heat up the beam to 300 degress C and thus change the molecular structure of the alloy. Or bend it way past the end of the scale. The amount that the beam flexes is a property of the particular steel alloy out of which the beam is made. It is hard to do something to change the nature of that alloy. Given the diameter of the bar, relative to its length, bending it repeatedly within the range of the scale it is not going to have change the molecular very much. It will lose its calibration only if you bend it too many times or too far and it become permanently bent as a result, instead of springing back, or, obviously, if it breaks. A coil spring, on the other hand, is a piece of steel that whose ratio of length to diametre is a lot greater than that of the steel bar. It gets deformed a lot more when you compress it, than the beam gets deformed when you flex it. So you change its molecular structure each time you compress it. It gets a little easier to compress each time you compress it. The bar, however, retains nearly the same resistance to being flexed, each time you flex it. So if it was accurate when it was made, as long as the beam isn't distinctly and obviously bent it will still be accurate. I suspect that after 100's of thousands of cycles it will break rather than bend.
Can somebody help me, I'm supposed to reverse engineer something, and I chose a torque wrench. Right now, I'm really stumped about the names of the tools that were used in the video. If someone can kindly list them, I would really appreciate that. Thank you.
If you list the exact time in the video and where on the screen the item is, then I’ll have a go at naming it.
yo there good info. But!!! I have 2 torque wrenches that do not have the same configuration as the one you adjusted. They just end with a knurled knob, no adjusting thing at the rear. Any info on these??? Greatly appreciated. I have no idea of the make, one is 1/2 inch drive, one is 3/8 drive. Thanks mucho
I assume the knurled knob does the same job as the twistable end on my wrench. It compresses the internal spring more or less, so the same principle.
Good Video, Can i ask what camera and attachment are you using ?
Nowadays I use a chest mount from GoPro with my own interface to an iPhone mount and an iphone6s. This video was probably using an iPhone 5. Other very early videos used a head mounted GoPro.
Ok i will try i just wished u had recorded better intead of camera moving all over the place its still good but if u zoomed in and kept it stady it will help everyone out better..thank u
Fair comment. I now have a camera gimbal so hopefully videos in the future will be better.
wow, ive had a craftsman one for almost a year now... i had it stored at 100ft/lbs... (usually use it on my wheels).. you think thats enough to screw over the calibration?
They slowly go out of calibration due to spring compression, but I would guess over years rather than months. If you have a cheap bendy bar sort of torque wrench compare it roughly against that, or do the calibration check with some weights.
I have 2 craftsman ones and 3 harbor freight and none of them click anymore and they are all 1 to 2 Years old. my Cornwell is the only one that can handle storage but that's for high torque only. this is too much work for a cheap torque wrench plus I feel like it's easy to make a crucial mistake in the math
So I just got a high quality split beam wrench and the manufacturer said it is a good idea to "exercise" it once in a while and before using. They recommend using a bench vise grip which I don't have. Do you have any tips on how I might perform this "exercise"?
Tighten your car wheel nuts maybe.
@@comeinhandynow Thanks. Good suggestion!
Genial...???
You are my hero...lol
just get another torque wrench use that as a guide for setting,i reckon wrap it in glad wrap to keep it from drying out if you use torque wrench once a year
But is the ‘other’ torque wrench spot on accurate? The beauty of calibrating against weights is that gravity doesn’t change and mass doesn't disappear over time.
Don't forget to take into account the weight of the test bar itself. It would be best if the fulcrum point were in the middle of the bar in instead of the end.
The weight of the test bar is taken into account, see the video from time 15:24. If it wasn't taken into account then yes you would have to have the fulcrum point in the middle.
comeinhandynow Yeah, I knew that.😁hehehehehe.😌
Hi. hope you can help with a couple of issues....1, the torque setting click isn't working even after following your instructions. 2. what does the grub screw ( reset) on the drive shaft actually adjust and 3. mine doesn't have the two "lobes" ....but I can't see anything to locate into............Help and assistance appreciated. Thanks. Ron
1. Check the inner bar has enough room to move inside the tube, maybe is is gummed up or something is bent, try and work it out. 2. There is a lock screw, usually, but that is just to lock in place the adjusting nut on the end that does the actual torque calibration adjustment by altering the spring compression. 3. Don't worry that it hasn't got them.
Just buy one of those cheap luggage scales and put the cord around the torque wrench at a measured distance, set the wrenches torque, pull till clicks (trying to pull perpendicular to wrench), then multiply measured weight on scale by measured distance and divide by 12. compare that answer to set torque and adjust calibration nut as needed until answer equals set torque. Repeat at a couple different torque settings to verify. I do 30ftlb, 50ftlb and 75ftlb. Much faster, and super accurate.
That is a similar method. Accuracy is dependant on accuracy of cheap luggage scales. Also need to make sure that the weight of any bar or scales is accounted for, or do it horizontally not vertically. Good contribution though.
Good point, I do mine horizontally by clamping a socket in a vice. Regarding the scales, that's also a good point. It would definitely be a good idea to check the accuracy of the scale, but that's fairly simple, just use the scale to lift a known weight. :D Thanks for the response!
I did watt u said but it doesnt click anymore please help
Is the inner bar the right way round? Have you turned up the torque setting? It won’t click unless the spring is compressing.
With Digital Hand Weight Scale much easier calibrate the torque wrench.
Ah but is the digital scale well calibrated...? No guarantee of accuracy.
That torque wrench can also be used to torque test in counter clockwise?
Yes the bendy bar wrench works equally well clockwise or anti clockwise.
I just get my 100 lb. daughter in-law to stand on end of wrench attached to a loose lug bolt -if it clicks with her weight, it is calibrated..
You'd better hope she never gets any heavier!
Good video but the audio sounds like you're in a wind tunnel.
The problem with working outside and the weather!
I really tried to stay awake but I couldn’t
The clue to its entertaining potential is in the tittle. It’s an educational DIY video, not an entertainment one! Move on.
Tiny parts, loose on flat bench over gully grating!
Fair point but two feet away.
Dude! You left ur pressure pin out. Dangerous working next to that grate.
I don’t believe anything was left out and it worked correctly afterwards, please explain what part you believe is the problem. Yes grate a bit close, but not exactly dangerous, it is only 3’ deep and easily accessed.
@@comeinhandynow look at the video. u left the pin that goes in the slot out. I could see it on the table in some shots. With out it torque could change. Correct me if I'm wrong.
@@comeinhandynow I drop and lose parts often.
@@TedOption The pin that goes in the slot at time 9:29? No parts were left over so it was all assembled.
@@TedOption It can happen, “you live and learn”.
Why manufacturers still making this “reverse” ratchet mode, if it can damage the ratchet itself?
Nonsense
Convenience and people wouldn’t buy it otherwise. Most of the time the torque is within the range if the wrench.
@@comeinhandynow
I mean, is it still can be used to torque up the “lefty threaded” bolts, just stay in “factory installed” tork range?
This “one way” angled rod which is making the”click” sound still makes the job done in reverse without any harm for the tool?
Thank you for the video and answering !
You lost me on the figuring out the calibration.
Try a replay!
can't trust it.
Eh? Do you mean you can't trust an uncalibrated wrench or you can't trust the instructions here? If the later, then what is it that you don't trust?
I can't trust your process, there are other easier ways to do it.
Don't know why not, it's mathematically and logically correct and I can't see how it could be much easier unless you spent a lot of money on a calibrated torque measuring rig.