Rolex Datejust Modern vs. Vintage: I Only Keep One!
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- čas přidán 20. 07. 2024
- A perennial question when it comes to the Datejust is the dilemma of choosing between modern vs. vintage. The modern 116200 has all the trimmings of a new watch such as sapphire crystal, antimagnetic movement, and lume, with a price to match. However the 1603 at half the price has so much charm and life imbued upon it over 5 decades and wears more delicately due to its classic thinness.
These two Rolex watches share many traits in common on paper, and the resemblance of the Datejust lineage is readily apparent. However, once you hold them in your hand and wear them on wrist, you realize they are completely different propositions. One is a hefty shinny, somewhat clinical machine right off the showroom floor, where as the other one feels like a weathered old friend who has many tales to tell.
Which one would you choose?
*Turned out my digital caliper was malfunctioning and the 2 watches are almost exactly the same thickness at around 12mm. I've trimmed the dimensions out of the video but they are as below:
Diameter: 36mm
Thickness: ~12mm
Lug to Lug: 44mm
Lug width: 20mm
I wear a 1960 vintage Rolex every day and love and appreciate it more every year. I'm 78 so I appreciate old things that still work!
Those 4 digit watches are pure class, enjoy it in good health Tom 👍
Haha, you old fuck! I like you!
Vintage 100% much cleaner case design and less 'showoff' than the modern one
It is a lot less blingy
Agreed!
I love this video! I wish more CZcams video makers would feature more real-life wrist shots. It adds so much value to the video and provides a realistic sense of scale and fit. Thank you!!
Sweet, Your feedback is really valuable! Thanks for dropping by 😁
Personally, I like the design of the vintage Datejust more. On the other hand I think the modern movement + case is more reassuring.
My "first world problem" exactly
DateJusts from the 90s have the vintage case and bracelet and a 3135 modern movement. Problem solved. Only external modern aspect is the sapphire Crystal. I have an OP Date from 1991 just like that, in addition to my 1974 1601 DateJust, my 1977 1675 GMT Master, my 2009 114270 Explorer, and my 1994 14060 Submariner.
I have the same modern reference but white dial and roulette date.
I love this watch. It has the charm of vintage models with all the modern improvements.
I’d keep the 6 digit ref. no doubt about it.
Always on jubilee bracelet, that wide lugs doesn’t match well with straps.
I’d keep the vintage, have it serviced, put it on leather, and send the bracelet to Michael Young for a rebuild. It is a beautiful classic that you’ll enjoy the rest of your life.
That's actually my plan at the moment!
Who is is this Michael Young guy? I need him to fix my jubilee band! Info anyone?
Careful having it serviced. Send to an authorized/specialized watch maker who deals w Rolex, not to Rolex itself or say bye bye to all your original parts.
@@thehairlesspersian3273 That's an good point! Maybe not as important on this watch as it would be on a vintage Submariner, but still worth bearing in mind.
Quality channel, and nice tribute to Anthony Bourdain! All of my watches are vintage, but I’ve always wanted to experience a brand new watch and build those memories with it from the ground up. That said, vintage watches are charming for all the reasons you stated, and both of these watches look fantastic, so it’s a tough choice.
Interesting, I always thought people worked their way into vintage over time, but it sounds like that's where you started the journey.
@@WatchCrunchOfficial well, I only have three watches, so it’s not much of a collection, and “used” would probably be a more accurate description than vintage. The oldest watch I have is a 1983 Speedmaster.
I love how you have a perspective on each piece be in through the lens of a cones-suer like tony bourdain or an exploration of the design philosophy like Bauhaus. I’m loving this docu style of watch video making. Please keep them coming :)
Thanks for your thoughtful comment Pradeep! I think watches connect us with something deeper and I always try and look for that extra bit.
HAUTE ONES really shows and I agree completely. There’s a beauty and romance to mechanical art and the stories held within them. Silent observers through all stages of life. Looking forward to more of your work :)
I would go with the modern. The vintage is nice if it was what you have but being that you have the option, the upgrades of the modern look better to me. I like the thick lugs as well. I have a vintage DJ which was my dad's and a modern one which is mine. It is my favorite watch line of all times.
Just rewatched this ep. Missing Anthony (again). Still think the vintage was the choice but hey, why not both! Cheers to you and looking forward to 2021!
He is missed. I look at the painting of him everyday in my living room. Cheers and Happy new year Bill!
I would keep both honestly the older version as a collectible and the newer version to were regularly .
Came across this video as I am considering adding a vintage Datejust to my own collection. Nicely done!
Yet another masterfully crafted video, paced leisurely and digs beyond just reference numbers with well researched material. This is what CZcams was created for.
Thanks Paul 👍
This was an amazing video. I was kind of down not being able to afford a brand new datejust at ($8300) and kind of looking down on the 1603. Yet, your video was so eloquent, and you're right, it's about the process. I may not be able to afford a brand new dj or a 1680 red sub, but I can afford a 1603, and maybe i should commemorate the fact that I can. Treat the process with respect and good things will follow. I can't emphasize enough, it is about the journey. Thank you!
Yes, in my opinion, there's nothing a 4 especially a 5 digit DJ gives up compared to the modern ones, they just have different character real watch nerds can appreciate 😉
The new Datejust is really impressive, great specifications and a solid durable timepiece. The vintage Datejust is something else entirely. The hands it has passed through, the journeys it's been on and the damage it's taken over the decades have given it a soul you will not find on the excellent modern watch. I've got a 1960's Oriosa Landeron chrono and when I wind it I wonder about all the people who have wound that watch before me, what life they lived, if they were happy or in turmoil, I find that unknowable stuff fascinating. The vintage Rolex is not the logical choice but for me it would be no competition, and it's fucking cheaper too 👍.
Well said Morgan. As you said, the appeal of these two watches come from different perspectives. I see a lot of people saying "you don't want a vintage DJ" because it's not built as well, I think that's missing the point.
@@WatchCrunchOfficial Absolutely Max and I cannot fault the opposite argument either, I'd love that new model but I think I'd get less out of its sheer clinical excellence than I would out of the vintage, battered beauty of the old DJ.
The vintage absolutely. Great look. I'd even take it over the newer oyster regardless of price.
I think I'm leaning vintage as well 👍
Me too no question ask
New to this hobby and saw your ig and channel, now I can’t get enough with watching videos of watches 😂
Haha, the rabbit hole is deep... Take it slow 😉
HAUTE ONES haha yeah, I’m still at college and I think it’s gonna be a long way 😅
My first (and favorite) nice watch is a new 2001 Rolex GMT-II Pepsi bezel. I wore that watch almost every day for a decade before I started building a watch collection. Now that it's gone up almost 200% in value and has almost 20 years of my history on it, I'm not as brave with it like I used to be. After all, I'm really only borrowing it from my son, in the end. When I saw the "Maxi Case" come out and watched Rolex start squaring the lugs off of their watches, it really looked chunky and didn't look like the bracelet was the right width. I think the lugs that taper down more towards the bracelet looks much more elegant. I am looking for a 36mm two-tone DateJust with fluted bezel and jubilee in my birth year to add to my collection. Other than that, my Rolex itch has been scratched and I have quite a few other brands in my collection. Keep up the good work. Love what you're doing!
Wow, what a story Tim! You really started your watch journey on the high road. I can see how it'd be a very thoughtful process to add to that collection. Good luck on your search!
Loved your video !! The vintage certainly has more spirit & and that old-school charm while the new date-just certainly packs a punch with its modern offerings. Tough choice to make , i'd go for the 116200
Thanks! You can't go wrong with either, what was surprising was just how different they feel.
I too was thinking clinical when I saw the modern one. For me the charm and delicacy, not to mention the mystery of the history of the older watch would make choosing it a no-brainer for me. Saving a pile of cash would be a bonus.
You are right Larry, one has to factor in the significant price different when making this decision... by "one", I mean " I " ;)
The 116200 is technically superior. It's a 992 911. But the 1601/1603 are genesis. It's the air-cooled 911. Wearing my 50 year old 1601 feels like a privilege as a caretaker.
Whoa what an insightful analogy! Completely agree. Now we need to see if there's a "singer" datejust ;)
HAUTE ONES there is no singer Rolex :) But a new 911 is so nice too.. god, even if I am a vintage guy, and specially with cars and motorcycles, it is so hard to chose a datejust. What a difficult choice... But I will go for 1601. Or maybe a 5 numbers from the 80.s...
If I had to choose one of these I'd choose the vintage. A vintage always works as a dress watch (I have a 1973 vintage Ricoh automatic). Extra benefit is it's greater affordability. Ultimately it will be your choice. Parts Unknown was a great food/travel series
You are a true gentleman Chris, embracing the flaws of the vintage DJ is not for the faint of heart, but I'm with ya
This was such a great presentation, Max. Of course I’m a bit biased 😉 so I’ll just say that every watch collector should own a Datejust. Just think of all the different iterations over the years...you really can’t go wrong. Keep up the great work!
Thank you Ted for inducting me into the world of vintage DJs 🙏. This one is headed for service shortly, seems Rolex really cut watchmakers off on parts
Very impressive video! Thanks a lot for this useful information and keep on doing such great quality Content.
Thanks Sam, your feedback is appreciated 🙏
What an excellent video. I enjoyed the sidequest on Anthony Bourdain!
I clicked this video just because. Been wearing my grandfathers perpetual datejust from sometime in the 80s before 1986. I've worked in restaurants my whole career. Wore my watch on the line, wear it serving tables, wear it doing almost anything. It has seen so much.
I also have a well worn copy of kitchen confidential, loved Bourdain so much. I hate he left us
I dont know what watch you ended picking, but what about 16030 with the quick set date, same unpolish if you can find it.
I hope you kept the vintage. When my father died last yr., he had 8 Rolex watches. All with 10 yrs of age. But then he had an older stainless 16030 It was from 1986. This watch has character about it. The other watches...some I gave to my nephews. I kept 4 new ones. But the one I wear almost daily is the '86 16030.
I'm coming late in finding this video. Which watch did you ultimately choose?
Cheers, Keith
I bought my two-toned Datejust in 1990. I got the silver tapestry dial. Wore it everyday for around 12 years, then switched to Omega's. Just felt the silver tapestry dial was getting too hard for me to read. Probably haven't worn it for a few years, but thank you for getting me excited about wearing it again. I'm also surprised to see the prices they are going for. A few years ago the same 18k and steel models only bringing in around $3k, which is around what I paid for it. I guess the price of gold has made the prices go up a lot!
Haha definitely not the price of gold that made the prices go up. Nor is it inflation. They are far far far above inflation rates.
Honestly, I'd go for the latest iteration, the 126200, over the two you have shown. It has all of the desirable characteristics of a modern watch (sturdiness, construction, water resistance, improved movement) with proportions much more aligned to that of vintage models (case and lugs shape). Also, the jubilee is a marked improvement over that of the 116200.
Yeah it's a very personal call. The slender lugs look better I agree, but I couldn't give up the Roman numeral minute track. How did they improve the jubilee?
@@WatchCrunchOfficial I can think of two improvements: the use of ceramic inside the links to prevent stretching, and the clasp which now has an easy link extension.
Here's a good source of reading: millenarywatches.com/rolex-jubilee-bracelet/
Awesome! Very educational, cheers 👍
I split the middle, my 16234 is my one and only. It's all I need.
Nice, I just love the 1603's stepped dial, but do miss the quick date
I agree, I love my 1996 16234 with covered lugs & its all the watch I need.
I am going to wait for your audiobook max. Great narration
Haha, thanks... I'm working on my Attenborough 😆
I prefer a brand new Datejust . You can start creating new memories for the next 20-30 years of your life.
I just put in an order with Theo & Harris for a vintage DJ. The only problem for me is the dial color. I know I want a sigma dial variation. But still going back and forth between the silver or grey dial or perhaps even a blue one. What is your favorite dial color and have you already decided on the piece?
Hey Robert! You can't go wrong with either. My feeling is that silver is more classic but grey is more rare. I would look at what other dress watches you own. If you already have light face ones, then can't go wrong with the grey 👍
Blue dial 9:11
I love the idea that a story of life can be told in texture and scratches--- a looming memory of life's imperfect beauty. Yet the freshness of modern lines allow a blank canvas and fresh perspective to starting a new.
‘95 Two-tone Datejust w/ oyster face (16233), I purchased stationed in Germany. Will wear it forever!
Great video. I have a 1981 16030. It's missing the beautiful pie pan dial, but it has a nice retro vibe with quick set. I love it and will never sell.
I didn't realize how much I miss quick set! It's almost like when you buy a vintage diver and forget the bezel doesn't click 🤦♂️
I love my vintage 1601 datejust but I have to say that as I don’t wear it daily I often get it out and look at the date and put it back. I just can’t face all that winding to get the date correct. If you wear it every day or don’t mind wearing a watch that is showing the incorrect date then it’s no problem. Still it’s a beautiful watch and looks so elegant and understated.
You hit it on the head. I reluctantly sold the vintage one precisely because setting the date became such a pain. For a watch I only wear once a while, it became a problem.
@@WatchCrunchOfficial They were designed to be worn every day.
Why not use a watch winder?
I know this video is a bit old, but I just found it. Which one did you end up keeping?
What's the dial color on the 1603, is it white or sliver?
My everyday watch is a 1989 Datejust on a Rolex black alligator strap with gold hardware. The watch itself is two-tone, with a black dial, gold hands and roman numerals. Absolutely love it. Original jubilee bracelet too stretched to wear, however
This may be a silly question, is the date just. From the mid 90s Amy different in polishness or modernity of the current ones?
Rolex continued to refine their movements and fit and finish, so yes you would expect to see small improvements over the 3 decades.
$6000 for new and $3000 for used? Boy times sure have changed in 2023.
Awesome Vid
So have wages, I earn a lot more now than I did in the 80s.
Nice video.
The 1603 looks more elegant.
I was faced with the same decision myself. My wife being practical wanted to buy me a new one as it would be protected by warranty, but I chose a 1601 instead (birth year).
What a beautiful episode. I had to sub. I would not be able to part with either, but I see why you are considering it. Keep the 6-digit. At the end of the day, it is a watch.
Thanks Ron, yep, kept the quick set date 😉
Love this video! I think you have to keep the vintage! I heard the calibre 1570 was the best! I love my Rolex Datejust 1969, change to leather strap. Looks wonderful!
love the video. if I could offer some insight on the video. possibly turn the music down a bit. gets hard to hear you at some times. keep up the great work!!
Thanks David for the feedback! 🙏
Jesus...🙄
Is it really stretch or wear from being worn loose like a charm bracelet?
Both are beautiful functioning tool/jewelry. Keep both and enjoy them for their own distinct appeal
Max, I’m on the fence between a DJ 36 and 41… you may have tipped the scales for me. What is your wrist size?
The sapphire crystal is important to me as is the improved movement that is anti-magnetic. I prefer mine on a Oyster bracelet not the Jubilee. I’d like to keep both, but if pressed I would keep the 2019 model.
really good video bro you should do a podcast or something!
Both, man, keep both. Beautiful video.
Vintage is the way! Watches tell a story. Someone told theirs wearing that watch, add yours to it, then pass it on. Keep the story going.
Are new Datejust heavier or lighter than old ?
Since when can you get a new datejust for $6000 and a vintage for half that? I just bought a two tone 16013 champagne dial for $5200 and that was after really looking and scouting the best deal from an AD in my area. Is there something I’m missing?
Modern model. Definitely. Vintage watches are ok but it says " i really wanted a new one , but ended up with this". Plus , i have that exact watch. 2015. I love it.
Which one did you end up keeping?
I love them both but would probably go with the newer model just for the bracelet and the practical merits of a modern movement. I also prefer the smoother bezel to the fluted one on the older model. (BTW, my collection does include my father's vintage presentation Omega from 1976)
Yes Tom, I ended up with a compromise: a 5 digit DJ from the 80s. Featured in the new video 👍
As a Rolex collector,.I suggest you buy the newer version and start its history on your own wrist. The quality of the new ones surpasses the old versions
Thanks for the insight. Yes I'm leaning toward the new one as of late mainly because of the quick set date function
@@WatchCrunchOfficial what did you end up buying ?
@@WatchCrunchOfficialwhich did you choose?
I take a different perspective. Most of the watches in my collection were bought from new and I know almost every scratch / dink on each watch intimately. I like that.
Love my 1601 blue dial, fluted on super jubilee. Always feels right.
Those vintage DJs are magic, prices are also rising fast
I prefer the new but with flutted bezel and rose gold with the Wimbledon dial , so much so I've ordered his and her versions. Also the vintage one is great with distressed tan leather strap.
Which one did you keep?I hope it was the vintage 1970.
I have a circa 1995 date just, which seems to embody both time periods; providing a duality of sorts
I have a vintage 1982 Datejust - I am original owner. Was going to go for the newer larger model but decided against it because of the beefy squared looking shoulders of the new Datejust. Appears like a slab of stainless steel to me. What I miss with the vintage model is the more modern movement that allows quick setting of the hour hand.
Yeah, I took the new on off the bracelet and it just looked wrong on a strap with those lugs
Although I love vintage watches, I might go with the newer model. Although the vintage has character, the newer model one can be the one that you grow with and can be passed down as rightfully yours, along with the stories you lived.
It's true, you don't have to baby it. Not having to think twice about washing your hands is important... Especially now
@@WatchCrunchOfficial Have it serviced, pressure tested, and you should be fine. I would not dive deeper than one to two atmospheres though. It does not have a sapphire window.
They're both very beautiful! I think you should keep both.
I've been in this boat, I have the 1601 and 116233. Keep the 1603 its more comfortable, has more character and warmth.
Yeah man, the vintage one also feels like it's half the weight! Which actually I like
I’m posting a video tomorrow on my channel reviewing my Datejust 16233 and comparing it to my other ref. 1601 16013 and 116233. check it out...
Good video and story, subscribed
Thanks Alex! Welcome to the channel!
Does the reference 116200 bracelet stretch over time?
Good question, definitely less than vintage ones!
You got another subscriber! We do share the love for similar watches and your content is fantastic. Please try to respond to my question in the previous post when you get a chance. Thanks.
I'm getting the same model with the blue dial that Anthony Bourdain wore, in homage to the legend, downloaded the audio book recently released about him, but can't quite get myself to listen to it.
Soon...
Good call, I'll have to look for the audible
I just purchased the new Datejust 41 with a fluted white gold bezel, white dial with Roman numerals, and a jubilee bracelet. To me, it is the perfect watch for anything/everything except climbing Mount Everest (Explorer II), or diving in the sea (Submariner with cyclops lense). There is a perfect three watch collection, of which I have two of the three items for myself and I’m waiting until April 7, 2021 when Rolex releases their new models for this calendar year. Happy hunting!
Fluted DJs are so classy. A bit flashy with the Jubilee for me so I went with smooth bezel.
@@WatchCrunchOfficial Either way, you just can’t go wrong! Enjoy and wear it proudly.
I find it hard to pay as much for a vintage watch as I would for a new one with all the new design improvements, like the movement, the steel and the bracelet improvements. I have a 72 Pogue and it’s great but it’s 1k not 7-10k.
thanks for the video. do you prefer the 36mm or the 41mm?
Definitely 36 for a dress watch!
@@WatchCrunchOfficial better to have a silver DJ or the blue one? Any suggestions?
@@ceyk2023 I'd say silver is more classic and versatile. But blue is also very pretty. If you wanna discuss further, hit me up on instagram!
Definitely the vintage, it stood the test of time and isn’t going anywhere. The modern lacks the finesse that the vintage has.
There is something charming about watches from that era!
I would go for the new Datejust. But take the one, YOUR heart beats for ( guess you tend to keep the Vintage) :-) Greetings from Austria.Btw I love your videos , your calm voice, ...great. Go on like that ( sorry for my english- as German is my native language).
Greetings Gabriele! Thanks for the feedback, your English is much better than my deutch 👌
Impressive video. Thank you
Thanks! Glad you found it helpful
The newer Rolex's are great and like so many other high end watches. but the 1601 is iconic. It reeks old world Rolex charm...
so which one did you end up keeping??
The newer one, mainly because of the quick set date. But it was a close call
Just got a 1601 linen born 1970 just like me…. Holds so much more value to me than my other watches that cost 10 x
Keep the vintage Datejust. I may be biased but I am a vintage guy. The vintage Datejust has more character.
It's definitely got more flavor, I agree 😎
Thank you!
Thanks for stopping by!
I'm biased, I want the vintage myself. I love the engine turned bezel, the look of wear, the smaller look of it, I love that it has a history, the oetina to the dial, and that the watch has character.
You can't go wrong with either, but I'd vote vintage
When chosing a datejust the main that always sticks out is the fluted bezel. If it doesnt have the fluted bezel it takes away the look of a datejust and looks like an OP.
I would go with the new one. It has Quickset date which I prefer. I’ve been collecting the 16013 and the 16014 made in the mid eighties.
I just picked up the 2020 Datejust 41. The dial color can be a somewhat troublesome decision. Some advice, which I hope helps: The only way to choose is to see the watch in person ... cant emphasize this enough. You will react differently when the watch in on your wrist and in your hand, it is impossible to feel this reaction when looking at pictures or videos on the web. For each person it will be different. For me the only dial colors I considered were Black, White, Silver or Blue. I went with Silver. My experience was the White was flat, Black was out because like most people I already to many Black dials. The Blue was beautiful but I was afraid it wouldn’t age as well. The Sliver was exquisite, it evokes the heritage of the brand, the reflective movement is one of a kind, the fit and finish is perfection, for me it was a no brainer.
Well said William. I agree silver dial is the classiest and safest way to go. What surprised me in person was the difference in weight. The new one is a dense watch! These tactile qualities need to be appreciated hands on.
I have a 1601 , rebuilt movement, otherwise a 50 year old gem. My favorite of all my watches…1973, same year as my Porsche 911, the newest one I have ever owned.
just get a OP date , if u research enough. the 34mm case width is almost indistinguishable to normal eyes to a 36mm datejust. the Lug to Lug size is probably just 1 to 2 mm different only. i inherited a 16200 but i am thinking of getting a 1505.
Interesting, I'll have to try a 34 some day.
Can I send u by beat up seiko 5 for u to remake it to a Vacheron constantin overseas in sunburst blue?
Haha, I'll get right on that 😉. Do you want me to add Chrono function while at it?
@@WatchCrunchOfficial nah, I like my watch to be simple n classy. Cheers
1961 rolex 1505 i wear it every day and it is stretched to the max. i love itl
Mmm the vintage with fluted bezel still pops more than the modern with non fluted bezel... For myself I would much rather get the latest DJ stainless Jubilee bracelet with fluted bezel. 70hr power reserve, 10yr span between service, solid end links, micro adjustment, and sapphire crystal... That's a hard to beat combo
Good job bro
My Dad gave to me his 1970's Pepsi...thing is worth a fortune, as a matter of fact as never being opened or serviced, gets behind a couple of minutes but, is all right.
underrated channel.
Appreciate the praise 🙏
I completely agree.
One thing I like about my vintage date just and its engine turned bezel that the entire continent of Asia is not trying to fake it. Asia is mainly interested in faking the latest models.
Love my 16013!
One day I will buy my self this watch. Its so nice
So....which Datejust did you keep sir? My fav is the 1603!
I think I'm keeping the newer one, mainly because that bracelet is so lovely. Just put the 1603 up for sale 😢
@@WatchCrunchOfficial As long as you're happy with your timepiece, that's all that matters. May you wear your new Datejust in good health sir!👍🏾 Great vid!
@@7324edwin thanks Edwin!
I hope you got the vintage. It's got character