Steve there is absolutely no need to buy Carswell's nickel plating kit. You can make up your own nickel plating solution. You can check it on CZcams as there are a few good tutorials on how to do it. I spent about £20 GBP on a pice of nickel sheet and cut some to make two anodes and one cathode ( or the other way around, I can't remember now) and plain white vinegar with a spoonful of table salt in it ( per pint or so of solution and the only other thing you need is a power supply. Half an hour or so and you have made your solution up. And as long as you have made enough to completely submerge your biggest part you can then plate your parts after cleaning thoroughly . Check it out Steve. You can plate all your parts for under I'd think $50 outlay unless you have to buy a power supply. That needs to be 0-30volts and max 5 amps. That should only be around $75-90 USD. ( here in the UK they are selling for £49 GBP. I've plated a good few things now and they are standing up fine to the task of being handled and hey! No more rust lol. NB. The parts you were talking about are not nickel plated. They are the wrong colour for nickel plating.
Exactly the answer I was going to give, although yours is much more thorough. Nickel plating is easy if you just want to protect something. Chrome is expensive because it should have a mirror finish when complete. The actual power needed is pretty flexible, as long as it is DC. I wouldn’t buy one just for this - use an old wall wart from you electronic scrap.
Hey, Steve - I'd make those pins out of 3/8" brass rod. You want those pins to wear - not the dovetail. Cut a box of them with a jeweler's saw & put them by the mill. Brass will form to the dovetail so you don't need much precision. If you're worried about brass pins getting stuck, tap a 1/8" threaded hole in the flat end for extraction. Harder material might deform the dovetail. The bulges hard pins can create will greatly impact the precision and wear rate of the mill's most important machined surfaces.
I though of that too... But it's hard to argue with the longevity of the Bridgeport's and if they had not changed the design of those pins in over 370,000 mills made I figured why try to improve on it.... Also I looked at the dovetails where the pin ride against and there was no signs of wear from the pins... Thanks for watching and the comment...
I believe these pins push against the back of the gib. It seems like an odd design to me to have them up against the iron dovetail directly. But then, I’ve seen odd designs like that before. Up against the gib means that nothing is moving against them, so no wear. That makes the most sense. It’s how I design these things.
How about parkerizing the old ones simply boil in solution,spray w w-d40 and blow off w compressed air 10 years on auto motive hinges and still not a spec of rust...used in the 60s in industry also as gun finish for barrel etc...love your content
I thought you were going to use the wood angle under the collet block inside the mill vise. Just put the angle on the vise bed, then lay the block on it and tighten the vise. The wood angle can be made a lot smaller for ease of placement. Of course, cut the rod short for this first. That’s usually what I do, though for special angles I usually cut it from aluminum for possible use later. I have a bunch I’ve made over the years, stamped with the angles. I also have one of those angle sets from steel you can get for maybe $30, or so, on Amazon or eBay. They’re pretty good too.
Too high in a vice on the saw.... The distance between the blade guides would be about 10 inches.... The collet vice keeps the piece close to the table and secure enough to keep it from slipping and rolling.... I can vary the blade pressure on this so so fine that there is every chance of getting a perfect cut...
Gostei de mais este trabalho amigo Steve!!!
Boa sorte sempre!!!
Mr. Steve. Good morning from Nacogdoches. More beautiful work. Don would never do that!!
Steve there is absolutely no need to buy Carswell's nickel plating kit. You can make up your own nickel plating solution. You can check it on CZcams as there are a few good tutorials on how to do it. I spent about £20 GBP on a pice of nickel sheet and cut some to make two anodes and one cathode ( or the other way around, I can't remember now) and plain white vinegar with a spoonful of table salt in it ( per pint or so of solution and the only other thing you need is a power supply. Half an hour or so and you have made your solution up. And as long as you have made enough to completely submerge your biggest part you can then plate your parts after cleaning thoroughly . Check it out Steve. You can plate all your parts for under I'd think $50 outlay unless you have to buy a power supply. That needs to be 0-30volts and max 5 amps. That should only be around $75-90 USD. ( here in the UK they are selling for £49 GBP. I've plated a good few things now and they are standing up fine to the task of being handled and hey! No more rust lol. NB. The parts you were talking about are not nickel plated. They are the wrong colour for nickel plating.
Exactly the answer I was going to give, although yours is much more thorough. Nickel plating is easy if you just want to protect something. Chrome is expensive because it should have a mirror finish when complete.
The actual power needed is pretty flexible, as long as it is DC. I wouldn’t buy one just for this - use an old wall wart from you electronic scrap.
Or someone in the US could volunteer to plate them for Steve.
Clamp - I know it won't have the throat depth, but you could try a G clamp, cut it in half and weld a "foot" to the bottom to mount it on the table.
Hey, Steve - I'd make those pins out of 3/8" brass rod. You want those pins to wear - not the dovetail. Cut a box of them with a jeweler's saw & put them by the mill. Brass will form to the dovetail so you don't need much precision. If you're worried about brass pins getting stuck, tap a 1/8" threaded hole in the flat end for extraction.
Harder material might deform the dovetail. The bulges hard pins can create will greatly impact the precision and wear rate of the mill's most important machined surfaces.
I though of that too... But it's hard to argue with the longevity of the Bridgeport's and if they had not changed the design of those pins in over 370,000 mills made I figured why try to improve on it....
Also I looked at the dovetails where the pin ride against and there was no signs of wear from the pins...
Thanks for watching and the comment...
@@10swatkins It's really hard to argue with those stats!
I believe these pins push against the back of the gib. It seems like an odd design to me to have them up against the iron dovetail directly. But then, I’ve seen odd designs like that before. Up against the gib means that nothing is moving against them, so no wear. That makes the most sense. It’s how I design these things.
How about parkerizing the old ones simply boil in solution,spray w w-d40 and blow off w compressed air 10 years on auto motive hinges and still not a spec of rust...used in the 60s in industry also as gun finish for barrel etc...love your content
Don't be to hard on Don. He didn't realize that puzzle piece he took was really the one you needed.
Steve, Hope Clark takes on those clamps. Would love to have a couple. Just the castings will be fine...can machine the rest of it.
I do too... I think a lot of people would just like the casting...
I thought you were going to use the wood angle under the collet block inside the mill vise. Just put the angle on the vise bed, then lay the block on it and tighten the vise. The wood angle can be made a lot smaller for ease of placement. Of course, cut the rod short for this first. That’s usually what I do, though for special angles I usually cut it from aluminum for possible use later. I have a bunch I’ve made over the years, stamped with the angles. I also have one of those angle sets from steel you can get for maybe $30, or so, on Amazon or eBay. They’re pretty good too.
Too high in a vice on the saw.... The distance between the blade guides would be about 10 inches.... The collet vice keeps the piece close to the table and secure enough to keep it from slipping and rolling.... I can vary the blade pressure on this so so fine that there is every chance of getting a perfect cut...
50 Degree's is 50 Degree's Not 47 Degree's...or 33 Degree's...
That was a lot of monkey motion to cut the pin to length. Why not simply chuck it up in the lathe and part it off.