Building a Shower Seat - Part 2 of Building a Corner Shower From Scratch - With Shower Pan Membrane
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- čas přidán 1. 08. 2020
- In the first video of this two-part series on building a shower floor for a corner shower, I address the details and processes for mixing and placing dry pack cement mix for the shower floor. I also show how to build the step for the shower out of brick and then encase that with metal lath and cement through a more traditional pour using forms to hold the cemented place while it dries.
This video goes into more detail on the concept of constructing the shower floor in such a way that water has very few places to go except down the drain. I talk about some of the pitfalls I have seen over the years when tearing out showers where people of reversed common sense for the sake of speed and built showers in a way that leads to leaks, mold and the need to replace the shower completely ultimately. Hopefully, the things I address in the video will help you if you are looking to take on a challenge like this on your own. Or, if you're just watching it because you're interested, thanks for that and I hope you find it useful and entertaining. - Jak na to + styl
I am still always impressed on your diagrams and model animations.
Yes, I remember you have an interest and abilities in animation and graphics from checking out your channel a while back, John. I’m still exploring different options to bring more variety to my videos and am finally getting a little more time to work on that. In this video I used Sketchup, Camtasia and Premier Pro which is my main video editing software. I really like Blender as well, but the learning curve is pretty steep for it, so I tend to fall back on the programs I know better when I need to get things done. Thanks for your comment and I appreciate you watching!
Another masterpiece. Thanks Rusty!
Thank you, Pat! I appreciate you watching!
This is the true definition of “you pay for what you get” man you did an amazing job! Awesome video and thank you for making videos like this to show people the right way to do things!
Thanks for watching and for your kind comments, Sam! I appreciate it. I'm glad you find the videos helpful.
Thanks so much Rusty! I built a shower pan according to your video and now about to install the walls the way you describe here. I appreciate so much learning the brick or concrete curb. Thank you!!
Thanks so much for your comment, Lauren! Glad to hear the approach and videos were helpful to you. Yeah, the brick/concrete curbs are hard to beat!
Rusty, You are a true craftsman. Many do not care about quality of or workmanship. Thank you.
Thanks so much for your kind comments, T! I appreciate it and I appreciate you watching my channel!
Impressed with your videos! Very thorough, detailed and informative. Video is precise with information your speaking about. Thank you for theses educational videos for a consumer and diy-er.
Thank you, Lisa, for watching and for your comments! I am glad you are finding my videos helpful! Keep at the diy thing! 😊
Your designs and animations are excellent as always. Your videos are of top quality just like your work 👍
Thanks so much, John! I appreciate your comments and you watching!
Very nice shower. I really like how you explain the why to how you do things. It makes sense to me too. Have a GREAT day!!! :)
Thanks so much for watching, Kara, and I really appreciate your comment! It’s always good to hear from someone like you who says they actually understand what I have been talking about! Hope all is going well in your world!
As a tile setter myself, that is tough job , beautiful work
Great job Mr. Dobbs
Thank you, Donny! I appreciate you watching!
Beautiful!!!!
Glad you like it, CS!
Excellent work and excellent teaching. Wish me luck!
Get after it, Gabe! I bet you'll be able to pull it off just fine! Thanks for watching and for your comment!
A tremendous amount of work. I have a feeling that most tile and bathroom contractors are taking shortcuts. Great job!
Yeah, it gets pretty tedious when you sit back and look at it, doesn't it, Mark! I appreciate you watching and your comment!
Lots and lots of work it trully look great
Thanks for the comment, Javier! Yes, lots of work but was a fun project!
Nice job Rusty
Thanks, Frank! I appreciate it!
GREAT EXPLANATION!!
Thanks, Eliud! I appreciate you watching!
What I did was use stainless steel as a floor pan and step as well as continue it up the wall above the shampoo shelf My pitch was welded into the pan and then back filled with grout underneath. We do not have good membrane material or selaers like red block here so I was not able to rely on modern products. It has worked excellent. Jim in Chile.
Hey Jim! There are lots of ways to get the job done, particularly when you don’t have Lowe’s and Home Depot stores on every other corner! Sounds like you took a pretty creative approach to building your shower. In the end, all it really has to do is to send the water to the drain and your approach does. I’ll bet it looks pretty good and will certainly be there for a long time. Thanks for passing on your story and I appreciate you watching!
@@RustyDobbs You are welcome and thanks for the video. Jim in Chile.
Nice work
Thanks, DP! I appreciate you watching!
Great content
Thank you, Joel! I appreciate you watching!
Great shower build and very good explanation. I am ready to rip out my shower and build my own shower pan instead of buying a pre-built one.
Good luck, Eric, and thanks so much for your comment! It's a pretty good process to do this but, as you can see, if you take it step-by-step, it is manageable and I have had a number of people over time who have been able to do their own shower floors as well. You've got a great attitude about it and I'm sure it will turn out well. I do always have to say to people that their second shower floors are always better than their first! After having done it once, you have a lot better sense about how to work with the dry pack and get the results that your looking for. You know, that's the way it is with lots of things!
Beautiful job Rusty!!! I am going to be doing a shower in my house sometime in the future. I have one bathroom plumbed and framed and started on the second one. I have a lot of other things to get done before I start sheetrocking and tile. But it was nice to watch you finishing this one up. Take care sir!!!
Thanks Danny! I don’t think I have told you this but with the Covid thing and hitting the age we are at, I am pretty much winding up doing the more major types of construction jobs for customers, which is pretty good timing for me. So, I’ll be doing videos on my own projects at the house and in the shop which will probably keep me busy for the rest of my years! Sounds like you’re in the same boat! We don't work as fast as we used to, do we!
@@RustyDobbs I thought I would not ever be doing another big job but this house rebuild is pretty major. The house was originally a 24x32 square built in the early 40's on pier and beams. A 24x40 addition was added also on pier and beam (I don't know at what time) and it was the living room and kitchen. Then a 20x30 slab was poured on the back and a bathroom and bedroom was added. After many floods and lots or termite damage, the walls, floors, and foundation in the original part was totally destroyed. I did a really thorough investigation of the ceiling, rafters, and roof and all that was in decent enough shape to reuse. So I built some stands and got some hydraulic jacks and lifted the roof up about 6 inches and tore out the floors, walls, and foundation. I started from ground up and am building a house. I have about half of the original house done and will start on the other half of the original part next. Hopefully it will go faster than the first half because there will not be any plumbing on this half. Then the fun starts.... Walls, siding, flooring, and all the things that make a house...
excellent process.. i follow the same process and its nice to see someone who plans all these details the right way. the only thing i tend to do is also add a liquid membrane to the curb . i hate when i see things like walls first then drypack or even doing nitche sills after the back wall nitche tiles. like you i think like water...
Needing to think like water is a good way to put it, Frank! Good to hear from you about the way you approach your work. It is just common sense to build installations that will last but I think when speed of installation becomes the priority, common sense often goes out the window for many contractors. It’s really a shame. Thanks for watching!
I like this guy he definitely knows what he’s doing that’s hard to find in CZcams
Thanks, Emmanuel! I appreciate you taking the time to watch and comment!
This is a very helpful video. I've been looking for this information for months but haven't found a video to explain the seat and the curb as well as you did. I also found so many videos using the premade shower pan systems but we have a unique shower size and wanted to build it all from scratch. Thank you thank you! I thought I would need to do the multiple layers of dry pack and PVC liner on the benches too because it is more horizontal surfaces. Why is the process different for the horizontal seat versus the floor itself? Just trying to learn. Thank you so much!
Thanks so much for watching and for your comment, Stacy! The simple answer to your question is that there are many ways to approach waterproofing seats these days. I look at it as I want the floor to be done correctly and drain well, then I want all the water from the shower head to make it to the floor. If it hits the seat, I want that water routed off the seat and onto the floor. The orange membrane I put on the Hardiebacker on the seat is waterproof itself and it overlaps the shower pan of the shower floor. The green waterproof coating on top of the seat is just another added protection to keep water flowing to the floor. The orange membrane and green coating are relatively new products in the history of my working career and I have worked them into my processes as I have gained confidence in their use. The old methods still work as well as ever but that doesn’t mean that some of the new innovations that make sense to me don’t modify my approaches. I try to keep common sense in play as well in my work. Hope that helps!
Hello Rusty, very impressed with your work and videos. Any chance you could provide additional detail about how the waterproof ledge was built? I am remodeling my bathroom now and was planning on placing tile on the ceiling to prevent issues from steam. I also wanted to add lights to, but this shower has made me think about indirect lights.
Thanks, Michael! Sorry for the delayed response. Sure, I would be happy to give you additional feedback. This shower lighting turned out very nice. I am using a free app called Volley to communicate back and forth with people these days on their projects. Their website is volleyapp.com if you want to explore the specifics. You can download the app directly or I can send you a link that will take you through the process. There is no charge on my end either. The main benefit is that it saves me time in responding to specific questions about projects rather than through email. You can send pictures, videos, voice messages and texts and I can respond the same way. If you are interested, email me at rusty@dobbsworkshop.com and I’ll get you set up to connect through Volley. Good luck on your project and thanks for watching!
Great instructional video, just starting my own shower rebuild. Question about floor loading though, I have a typical 2' OC joist foundation with a fiberglass shower insert 3'x4' and vinyl floor in the bathroom. Planning to build out a 4'x5' shower fully tiled with a tile floor in a 9x10 bathroom. Should I be looking at floor load and how would I determine if the joists need to be beefed up? You mentioned this in an earlier video but I didn't see what you ultimately did for the floor load.
Great questions, Capn! You are right to be thinking about the load situation with the description of your project. In my case in the video, the subfloor was actually 2x6 tongue and groove pine on floor joists so it is incredibly strong. They don't build like that anymore! You probably have 3/4" T&G wafer or plywood. Because you are building a large shower, obviously you are point loading the floor in that area with a lot of weight from the sand and cement. If I were doing the work, I would open up the floor in the area of the shower to expose the joists and get easy access to the crawl space. Then there would probably be a couple of options. One would be to pour four small concrete posts in the ground to support joists placed in between your existing joists to beef up the structure under the shower floor. The other would be to bolt additional joists alongside the existing joists under the shower floor but I would evaluate that option based on how the original framing is done. In either case, it is not a particularly challenging undertaking if you have good access through the bathroom floor. I just tend to think about things like this with a little common sense and over-engineer it. If you have structural questions still, I would get a carpenter/framer to take a quick look once you have the floor opened up. Good luck with your project! Sounds like a nice upgrade!
Thanks for theses videos! They're awesome. Two questions...do you have a video that explains specifically how to build the brick step and what do you think of using cinder blocks for seats?
I appreciate you watching, Jessica! Yes, I do have an earlier 2 part version called Building a Shower Floor From Scratch where I show how I construct the step using brick, metal lathe and Hardiebacker as a part of the shower floor construction. Cinder blocks would work fine for a seat with waterproofing. Good luck on your projects!
I am going to break my shower to build something like this. Great video
Go for it and good luck! Thanks for watching!
Great Video Rusty! I do have one question regarding setting the glass panels, how did you set the panels to the curb? I did not notice any fasteners on the curb. Is the small sliver of tile recessed or did you just use silicone or maybe a combination of both? Thanks for the great videos.
Thanks, John! No, those small tile cuts flush out with the pieces of bullnose trim on the edges of the curb. The glass installers use a thin metal channel that is finished in oil rubbed bronze color for this shower enclosure and drill and screw it to the curb. Then the 3/8” glass panels fit in that. A metal header goes on top of the glass panels that ties to each wall and provides the rigidity to the whole design. Then, they silicone the joint at the curb and up the wall where the glass butts against the wall tile. Hope that makes sense! I appreciate you watching!
Awesome and very helpful video. What sofware did you use for your rendering?
Thanks for watching, Richard! I was using Sketchup Pro for this video but have finally switched to Blender for all my 3D work a few years ago. Took some time to get functional in Blender but would never go back. When Sketchup started with the annual subscription cost, that sealed the exit for me. Blender is a much more flexible tool. The comparison is not even close. The main Blender program is free but I buy addons regularly to make some processes easier so I have some voluntary expense at times. Steep learning curve but worth it if you are interested in 3D.
I just got done with the second layer of dry pack and I'm wondering do you set the floor tile before addressing the step? Also is the Hardee backer attached to the step with only thinset? Thank you for all the information on your videos! I've been studying for a long time and finally doing it. I noticed that the video with you building the seat on the finished floor has been removed. Thank you rusty you theman!
Yes, John, I set the floor tile before setting tile on the step. Same idea for the walls. I like for the water coming off the walls and step to hit tile on the floor tile rather than a caulk or grout joint. Probably not that big of a thing in the big picture, but that's the way I like to do it. If I am installing Hardiebacker directly on the metal lathe on the step, I treat it like a piece of tile and use plenty of thinset to squeeze it into place and fill the void in the metal lathe. Then, I place boxes of tile against Hardiebacker until the thinset dries. Good job on taking on the challenge of replacing your shower! Floating a shower floor is uniquely rewarding for some reason? Glad my videos have been helpful! Not sure about the video you can't find? I'm not aware of any reason why that might be the case. Good luck with the rest of your project!
Hello Rusty I'm getting ready to build a walk in shower I've watched you build your shower pan a dozen times you are a craftsman for sure your videos contain no nonsense very well explained content I'm sure I've overlooked it in your video's do you put a fiber water proofing on your walls or is a roll on membrane such as red-guard sufficient
Hey Jeff! Thanks for your kind words and good luck with your shower! There’s a long and short answer to your question. I’ll hit the middle/long ground! I use 1/2” Hardiebacker on my walls behind the tile. It is a great product and its water absorption characteristics mimic the old mud/concrete walls that good showers were built with in the old days.
So why is it important for walls behind tile to be able to absorb and wick away water? Because water over time will find its way through grout joints to some degree and needs to be dealt with. Everyone agrees with that. My preference is to allow the Hardiebacker field areas to deal with it because I believe Hardiebacker was designed for that purpose as it absorbs, wicks away and quickly evaporates off water very well. So, under normal circumstances, I tape joints and corners with fiberglass tape and coat those areas with one of the liquid membrane products. I leave the rest of the Hardiebacker as is for the reason above.
There is a whole other school of thought about coating everything with a waterproof membrane to create an envelope behind the tile. That’s fine and sounds like a great idea. But as I said, everyone agrees that water will get behind the tile over time. If that’s not the case, there would be no need for a waterproof membrane by those who advocate it, right? My problem is what happens to the water that gets trapped between the tile and waterproof membrane? No one, to date, has an answer for that. I don’t think that is a good situation though it may take a long time for that water to create a problem. But clearly that water is never going to evaporate or go anywhere else and that is not good. So, I prefer to let the original Hardiebacker surface take care of incidental water. Old school thinking, Jeff! I don’t make a big deal out of it in my videos, but in almost all installations, this is my methodology. There are some circumstances where I take a different approach but not often.
Thank you Rusty for taking the time to answer my question and pretty in-depth I put may confidence in old school in most cases they are tried and proved! Back in the ole days if we weren't around some with a particular craft we had to learn the hard way trial and era I am grateful to you for being willing to share your knowledge and experience Thanks again your help is very much appreciated!
What is your thoughts about building a corner floating seat with 2x4 and covering it with waterproof backer board membrane
I'm assuming your are asking this in lieu of using a fabric waterproofing material as I did in this video. I typically answer questions like yours this way, Matt. For a customer who I am assuring that my installation will last over time, I do it this way. If I am doing an installation for myself, I might consider your suggestion because if something doesn't work our right over time, I can always redo it. My only caveat to your idea is that I would use fiberglass tape and several layers of a waterproof liquid membrane on corners and joints. I just noticed your reference to a corner "floating" seat which is easier to waterproof than the style in this video. A better suggestion for a corner floating seat is a stainless steel triangle seat that is screwed to the studs and filled with drypack. These are available in various sizes from tile supply shops and I found one on Amazon by Innovis for $56. Hope that helps!
Hello Sir,
I have a question what program did you use to illustrate the shower with the leak. The visual is impeccable.
Thank you
Paul
Hi, Paul. I used Sketchup for these animations. I have used it for many years, but have not been happy with the annual pricing structure they have moved to. I have converted over to Blender which not only is a free, open source tool, but has capabilities that far exceed Sketchup. Blender has a steep learning curve and is not as oriented to construction applications as Sketchup, but I have finally been able to get functional with it. My latest video is all Blender animation. Thanks for watching!
How are you doing the pipe and shower drain? Can’t find it in your video
More information on the drain in Part 1 of this build. At about the 4 minute mark I talk a little about specifically installing the drain. Not too much to it. czcams.com/video/doaJt_TsFTU/video.html
I have a question... I have an older and in '30s and I want to do one of these using the dry pack method as I think it's a better option but as you say in other videos the floor framing holding a dry pack might be an issue. Could a person take a 1/4 or 3/8 or even a 1/2 sub-floor sheet and lay it down and bevel cut it as to mimic a drop off to take up some of the initial dry pack and that weight?
Yes, Jeff, just thinking about what you are asking, if I were doing something like that and I could get a minimum 2" thick tightly packed dry pack layer placed on a on a solid subfloor instead of a preslope dry pack, I would be willing to try it on a project of my own. I wouldn't do it for a customer because I'm not 100% sure it would hold up, but I could replace it myself for me if it didn't work. I hope that answers your question. If you are doing it for you, it's worth a try, knowing you may have to replace it one day. Good luck and thanks for watching!
@@RustyDobbs Thank you for responding!
You said a bench isn’t a preference to build, would you say that building the bench with brick would be a better option in case a bench is wanted?
Hi Naomi. Yes, brick is preferable to wood when the potential for water to reach the structure is possible. That’s why I went to such trouble to make sure the bench seat in this video is well protected from water. If I have my preference on the type of seat to use in shower, I use one that corner mounts into the studs and doesn’t interfere with the basic structure of the shower. An example of that type is found in the last 20 seconds of so of my video called, Building a Shower Floor From Scratch - Part 2 of 2 - With Shower Pan Membrane. Hope that makes sense! 🙂
Holey shit! That shower is amazing!
Thanks for watching.