This default feature in your slicer could be messing up your 3D prints
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- čas přidán 22. 08. 2024
- z-hop is a common feature in most slicers and when used correctly can increase the quality of your 3d printed parts. But, it is not recommended in all cases since it can promote stringing and require additional post processing of your parts. We'll look at where the z-hop setting is, options, and when you should and should not use it.
This deffiently helped my stringing uts still a bit stringy. I'm just tweaking the settings trying to find that sweet spot. Thank you for shareing.
Thank you, thank you, thank you. You just solved the major problem I have with Orca.🙏
Glad I could help!
After my Centered-Z mod I was excited to try z-hop again due to the speed and accuracy of the mod.
It still sucked.... Then I moved to Orca to see what am the hype was about and I like to try defaults to see how it's intended to be used. I noticed the hop and said crap, I'll fix it after this test print. The test print was phenomenal. And a printer config for the closest I could find, which wasn't that close.
I've disabled the feature and printed several tests. Then went to print a functional print, lots of supports, and very high infill which can cause nozzle drag as the plastic cools.
I'm turning it back on, I can tell visually on the top layer as well.
I'm going to enable Arc in Klipper so I can try the spiral hop option and see what that's all about.
If you have a fast Z, I feel this implementation has more pro than con currently.
If you don't have a fast Z, check out my videos.
I find stringing really comes down to retraction settings and filament(possible moister). Once retraction is tuned for your filament stringing is very minimal, especially if wipe is set correctly. Main benefit of cura is their combing feature which is just a smarter wipe. I use orcaslicer on everything that doesn’t need massive amount supports.
Mate, you're a legend with these Orca videos! 10/10 stars! Maybe some filament changes/M600 tips and tricks?
Thanks. You bet. I'll get on it!
Thankyou, I’m migrating from cura to OS, and for the life of me couldn’t find how to disable z hop/lift 🙏🏻👍🏻
Z hop is awesome... When you have belted Z like on voron switchwire or voron 2.4
Thank you so much, I'm new to orca and these videos are great!
Ya it helped so must thank you 😁
One of my patreon members sent me your way. Fantastic video! Fingers crossed this helps solve my big stringing issue I'm running into at the moment!
Fantastic. Hope it helps!
Survey says? Did it help?
Did it ?
Thank you.....I've been playing with my retractions to try and fix the stringing. I'll shut the z hop off.
Now I am super confused, the only way I could get rid of stringing in CURA was turning on Z-hop and adding extra retraction... That's after 6 months of trying settings.
I am...
flabbergasted. That's the only word I have. The fact that prevalent people in the 3dp community have been printing for a long time, and can't realize this, is wild.
I've known this for a few years, z-hop adds to the travel distance moved, and it moves your head up after a retract which literally pulls filament through the nozzle to start it oozing. On top of this, z-hop being on by default causes default profiles to have a higher stock retraction setting.
There's a big "issue" going around with the k1, where people insist that you can't print PLA with a 60c bed, while it's enclosed.
And it's literally because they increase the retraction to 0.6 from 0.4mm, the distance it SHOULD be, specifically because they use z-hop.
Z-hop is, imo, one of the worst features in existence, and only really exists to mitigate z-wobble and banding from bent lead screws, and MAYBE for very niche extreme overhangs.
When printing with organic or tree supports, I've had a lot of them break off before reaching the model. I believe it could be due to the nozzle colliding with the supports. I'm using the Bambu A1 with a textured PEI plate and bed auto-leveling. Is this something you have experience with?
Not specifically on my A1 since I just got it, but on other printers for sure. With small features and supports it is certainly a risk. That's one of the areas where z-hop can help. If you've got it turned on but still colliding maybe check the z-hop distance. You might want to increase it if you're getting collisions.
He set "Z Hop when retracting" to 0 from 0.4 and changed the Z hop type to normal. But I wouldn't recommend that setting.
LOL i was tripping out as to why my printer was leaving strange blobs, forgot i changed it to Auto on "Z hop type", back to Normal.. like God Intended, Got Dam iht
How do I fix my nozzle from hitting the print while its printing? it will be printing infill and rubbing against it at the same time. Flow rate is set to .94
thank you for sharing
Im having a problem with the scales i set on my prints being totally differebt when sliced exported and printed. Configure out why
Let me make sure I understand correctly. So for example of you slice a 25x25x25mm cube in Orca and print it out, the dimensions printed are totally different? How far are the printed results off from your model?
Hiii, it is possible to use orca slicer + octoprint for timelapse, if yes how to use it???
👍
hateeee Z HOP! Thank you, it's not in a logical spot, Orcaslicer seems like it was made by people who don't print.