Hello from Australia. I have owned my 1995 LS400 for 27 years with 400000kms... It's showing signs of age and things happening you would expect from a near 30 year old car....BUT I WOULDN'T SWAP IT FOR THE WORLD!!!! The 1995 UCF20R is one of the finest cars ever made. I had a similar problem years ago in my Toyota Crown with a fuel line banjo fitting which was installed in reverse: contrary to flow...easy enough to fix... The LS400 is a pleasure to own although keep an eye on the two front control arms (the longest ones which bolt to the lower control arm and up near the radiator) these have a rubber bushing which fails in less than 30,000 kilometers. Causes harshness in the front ride characteristic. Replacement bushes are now available...don't need to buy the entire arm now. Also, use old fashioned copper core spark plugs; they are better for the coils. Also the cabin air filter can be changed without taking the glove box off...there is a removable panel in the glove box just above the strap of elastic for the leather books binder. Much easier than disassembly!!!!! Check out Kelvin's videos from NZ...The Car Tune Company YT channel. Cheers from sunny Australia.
Appreciate the comment! 250,000 is impressive. I've only put 25,000 on mine in five years but it's the perfect car for date night and going to church. My suspension is still really tight but there is a vibration above 75 mph. I'm thinking drive shaft mount is bad. I'll post a vid if I solve it
@@threepedalgarage993 My pleasure Threepedals!! Vibration in drivetrain probably caused by worn centre bearing in propeller shaft assembly, the flexible coupling (I think you call these "Guibos" in the US) at the ends of propeller shaft becoming hard...and the rear diff mounts and bushings wearing right out. Incredibly the two rear-most diff bushings on my UCF20 had completely chewed out (after27 years) causing clunking and vibration. The propeller shaft must also be tested to be in a straight line from trans. to diff with only about 0.5 degree variation...this can be corrected with shims at the centre support bearing, but if you have all new engine mounts (3) and all new diff. and rear axle assembly subframe to body bushings (StrongFlex) the angle of the prop.shaft should be very close. Cheers from winter in Australia!
First of all thank you so much for this lovely vedio. I enjoyed each second ☺️. I have same car same model same color. It's in my channel if you want to check it . I appreciate the effort you did to make this vedio happen, fixing , filming and editing, it's not easy thing , I really know what's that mean . Regarding the ECU , I was have another issue , white smok come out from the Exhaust like circils , it's like a person smok segaret, and making white circils .😅 I did same what you do , I took of the ECU , I open it and take the board it self out , I went to electronics store , show him the capacitors, I got new ones , then take every thing to some electronics guy, and I told him , please just remove all old capacitors ( all , i mean all good and bad ) , clean the board, and install the new one . He finished , I back to the car , put back the ECU , and everything come like brand new ( you change capacitors, you change every thing) . No more white smoke, no more clanky gearboxes shifting. Also , i have another thing to tell you , and its very important, some times when i start my car ( when its cold ) a punch of white smoke comes like from 20 to 30 seconds, then disappear, not just only this , also I realize the feul consumption is very very bad . I changed so many things , but the problem still there 😢. Finally I discovered that the power steering upper air valve is broken, you can find it directly under the fluid filler ( rezevur) . Also the hose come out from the valve it self going to the air intake was have air leaking . Simply I solve the issue by deleting the valve. Just stick a rubber pieces Inside the hoses and cover the outlet pipes with rubber covers . No more white smoke in early morning, no more insane fuel consumption. Note : you mentioned in your vedio that you love your lexus , oh man i can't describe how much i love my lexus , i owned it now for 18 years and it has 390K miles , around 630K kilometers. And still running smoothly. I am keeping it for ever . Nice thing to do : change tha back plate lights with LED ones , it will look super amazing.
Thanks for the video , I own a 1997 with 317k miles (still have the original radiator) got a killer deal, bought it from original owner 3 years ago with 296k approximately, I felt the same way, I bought it just to flip it, but ive gotten attached to it . Glad you are restoring it back up and keeping it original as its meant to be!! keep up the great work, if the starter is original may have been a good idea to replace it ...
I love to hear about LSs over 300k! Gives me hope mine will last a long time yet. Only second owner, nice. I think I'm 4th. Done any work to you yours yet? I need motor/ trans mounts and maybe struts next.
@@threepedalgarage993 Yes the previous owner was very consistent on fixing everything on his , so most of the major issues were addressed, like starter, fuel pump, power steering pump and rack, with high pressure lines, front seals rear main, transmission front pump seal, tail shaft seal.. t-belt, H2O pump. I've addressed some issues like all fluids. I did replace a couple of shift solenoids, i did the EGR delete, motor mounts, it's going through it's 3rd timing belt and water pump service soon. I did plugs, the fuel pressure regulator, probably forgetting other things. I've replaced the front and rear struts also the control arms and strut rods bushings, i did use urethane ones as I wanted a more quick and tighter steering feel, however ,if you want to maintain the smooth ride stick to rubber and factory struts. My next item would be to replace the radiator and hoses even though they are not leaking just being proactive.. also i may send the ECM for a refresh even though I do not sense any issues at this time .
that's a Idle Air Control valve and they are a common cause for issues (they'll stick with gunk from the EGR connection). Bearings are readily avail online but it's difficult to find new/remanned units. EGR delete is a common thing to do on 1uz's partially because of this.
By the way , did you find a way to know the codes error numbers when the check engine light come on ? I tried Bluetooth OBD2 , and I tried the TE1+E1 ( the newziland man way - jumber way ) . But no luck with both way . The engine light stay on , without flashing .
Been 11k trouble free miles so far. In fact check my vids of 0-60 times, a bit faster than stock now. Also, they may be oem, they're rebuilt, but I'm not sure if originally aftermarket..
Hello from Australia. I have owned my 1995 LS400 for 27 years with 400000kms... It's showing signs of age and things happening you would expect from a near 30 year old car....BUT I WOULDN'T SWAP IT FOR THE WORLD!!!! The 1995 UCF20R is one of the finest cars ever made. I had a similar problem years ago in my Toyota Crown with a fuel line banjo fitting which was installed in reverse: contrary to flow...easy enough to fix... The LS400 is a pleasure to own although keep an eye on the two front control arms (the longest ones which bolt to the lower control arm and up near the radiator) these have a rubber bushing which fails in less than 30,000 kilometers. Causes harshness in the front ride characteristic. Replacement bushes are now available...don't need to buy the entire arm now. Also, use old fashioned copper core spark plugs; they are better for the coils. Also the cabin air filter can be changed without taking the glove box off...there is a removable panel in the glove box just above the strap of elastic for the leather books binder. Much easier than disassembly!!!!!
Check out Kelvin's videos from NZ...The Car Tune Company YT channel.
Cheers from sunny Australia.
Appreciate the comment! 250,000 is impressive. I've only put 25,000 on mine in five years but it's the perfect car for date night and going to church. My suspension is still really tight but there is a vibration above 75 mph. I'm thinking drive shaft mount is bad. I'll post a vid if I solve it
@@threepedalgarage993 My pleasure Threepedals!! Vibration in drivetrain probably caused by worn centre bearing in propeller shaft assembly, the flexible coupling (I think you call these "Guibos" in the US) at the ends of propeller shaft becoming hard...and the rear diff mounts and bushings wearing right out. Incredibly the two rear-most diff bushings on my UCF20 had completely chewed out (after27 years) causing clunking and vibration. The propeller shaft must also be tested to be in a straight line from trans. to diff with only about 0.5 degree variation...this can be corrected with shims at the centre support bearing, but if you have all new engine mounts (3) and all new diff. and rear axle assembly subframe to body bushings (StrongFlex) the angle of the prop.shaft should be very close. Cheers from winter in Australia!
First of all thank you so much for this lovely vedio.
I enjoyed each second ☺️.
I have same car same model same color.
It's in my channel if you want to check it .
I appreciate the effort you did to make this vedio happen, fixing , filming and editing, it's not easy thing , I really know what's that mean .
Regarding the ECU , I was have another issue , white smok come out from the Exhaust like circils , it's like a person smok segaret, and making white circils .😅
I did same what you do , I took of the ECU , I open it and take the board it self out , I went to electronics store , show him the capacitors, I got new ones , then take every thing to some electronics guy, and I told him , please just remove all old capacitors ( all , i mean all good and bad ) , clean the board, and install the new one .
He finished , I back to the car , put back the ECU , and everything come like brand new ( you change capacitors, you change every thing) .
No more white smoke, no more clanky gearboxes shifting.
Also , i have another thing to tell you , and its very important, some times when i start my car ( when its cold ) a punch of white smoke comes like from 20 to 30 seconds, then disappear, not just only this , also I realize the feul consumption is very very bad .
I changed so many things , but the problem still there 😢.
Finally I discovered that the power steering upper air valve is broken, you can find it directly under the fluid filler ( rezevur) . Also the hose come out from the valve it self going to the air intake was have air leaking .
Simply I solve the issue by deleting the valve. Just stick a rubber pieces Inside the hoses and cover the outlet pipes with rubber covers .
No more white smoke in early morning, no more insane fuel consumption.
Note : you mentioned in your vedio that you love your lexus , oh man i can't describe how much i love my lexus , i owned it now for 18 years and it has 390K miles , around 630K kilometers.
And still running smoothly.
I am keeping it for ever .
Nice thing to do : change tha back plate lights with LED ones , it will look super amazing.
Thank you for this video I am about to order this ECU 🙏🏻 love my 96 LS 400
Thanks for the video , I own a 1997 with 317k miles (still have the original radiator) got a killer deal, bought it from original owner 3 years ago with 296k approximately, I felt the same way, I bought it just to flip it, but ive gotten attached to it . Glad you are restoring it back up and keeping it original as its meant to be!! keep up the great work, if the starter is original may have been a good idea to replace it ...
I love to hear about LSs over 300k! Gives me hope mine will last a long time yet. Only second owner, nice. I think I'm 4th. Done any work to you yours yet? I need motor/ trans mounts and maybe struts next.
@@threepedalgarage993 Yes the previous owner was very consistent on fixing everything on his , so most of the major issues were addressed, like starter, fuel pump, power steering pump and rack, with high pressure lines, front seals rear main, transmission front pump seal, tail shaft seal.. t-belt, H2O pump. I've addressed some issues like all fluids. I did replace a couple of shift solenoids, i did the EGR delete, motor mounts, it's going through it's 3rd timing belt and water pump service soon. I did plugs, the fuel pressure regulator, probably forgetting other things. I've replaced the front and rear struts also the control arms and strut rods bushings, i did use urethane ones as I wanted a more quick and tighter steering feel, however ,if you want to maintain the smooth ride stick to rubber and factory struts. My next item would be to replace the radiator and hoses even though they are not leaking just being proactive.. also i may send the ECM for a refresh even though I do not sense any issues at this time .
that's a Idle Air Control valve and they are a common cause for issues (they'll stick with gunk from the EGR connection). Bearings are readily avail online but it's difficult to find new/remanned units. EGR delete is a common thing to do on 1uz's partially because of this.
By the way , did you find a way to know the codes error numbers when the check engine light come on ?
I tried Bluetooth OBD2 , and I tried the TE1+E1 ( the newziland man way - jumber way ) .
But no luck with both way .
The engine light stay on , without flashing .
Mine is a 97 US model and standard OBD reader works like normal. Just a cheap reader of amazon.
have the non oem injectors caused any issues or major differences since they’re not oem?
Been 11k trouble free miles so far. In fact check my vids of 0-60 times, a bit faster than stock now. Also, they may be oem, they're rebuilt, but I'm not sure if originally aftermarket..
thank you for this
Glad you liked the vid, please consider subscribing. Are you doing injectors?
Okay I changed mines could you help me figure out where a bracket goes I can send pics
Go ahead and send em: I'll see if i can matchup with my intake.
😞 'promo sm'