Forced To Change Our Own Solar Install!
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- čas přidán 24. 06. 2023
- Have you ever got to the end of a job and then realised... that it isn't actually the end of the job? In this video, the artisan team headed up by Jordan, made a discovery which impacted the entire job. In other news, John contemplates wearing a "work kilt", Artisan's solar panel cleaning service got some more work done and almost the entire artisan team makes an appearance. Settle in for this week's fix of Artisan Electrics.
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50+ years as a spark and I don't recall ever seeing galv. trunking fitted externally, water will seep in.
I would only consider it in a sheltered location. Or in this case within a roofed enclosure/ plant room etc. Outdoors, exposed to the elements all those cut edges even treated are going to start to rust . Although its just mechanical protection cosmetically I'm not a fan.
You can get external grade, comes with a rubber lip.
I didn't think you could use metal trunking for solar as they are considering double insulated systems. Sure they said that on the solar bpec course
@@jasonwatson9011a customer asked me to install some SWA in some galv trunking last week. I told them to jog!
Not to mention the cut ends rusting away in no time...
I have to admit I would not be a fan of having what looks like plant room machinery bolted to the side of my house, but a very tidy install all the same.
Agreed - I'm also not sure I'd appreciate having all of my isolators available for anyone to play around with after a quick hop over the fence. I hope the Libbi is also better than the Zappi and Eddi, because I've had both for nearly five year while they are a good idea, they are rather poorly implemented. Just ditched the Zappi after I went for a different battery solution. They 'just about' work, but everything about them is just OK and you spend most of your time coming up against things they can't do or can't do very well.
I've said it before, and I will say it again. Microinverters are the way to go. No messy boxes and cabling indoors. It's all hermetically sealed and up on the roof. There are lots of other advantages, too.
Ive built sheds around them in the past. Manufacturers instructions usually say equipment should not be in direct sunlight or directly rained on too.
OMG. Never had cause to seriously criticise your work but have the guys forgot they are outside!!! Top entry into the AC isolator with galv couplers 😳😳. Shocking no other word for it! Order a spare cos you will be changing it in 6 months
Yep it will fill up like a bath with no drain hole, but even if has one - you still don't want rain water pouring into it from that trunking which has no water ingress protection.
If you look closely most of the content on this channel is riddled with things you wouldn't want at your own house.
Terrible Will you be building an enclosure over that lot? how much did you charge , or did they refuse to pay? 🤔🤣🤣
@Falco45able imagine coming home to find your house transformed into an electrical substation, a huge bill and a major reason why no one will ever want to buy your house in the future
As people have commented already it looks tidy, but there is no way I’d have that on the side of my house
My dog could bite on that 1kVcc wire, definitely no go.
I see a future where a lot of this stuff gets stolen while people are on holiday.
I'd rather have some kind of cabinet or enclosure on the wall with all the isolators and other bits within. It's installed neatly tbf, but it looks very industrial on the side of the house.
🤣 true.
will look even worse in a years time when its all covered in spiderwebs & bird shit.
@@dbuts5136 And all the galv trunking has rusted on every edge and corner
What would be great is to make a in closure above the libbi, that looks like the libbi inverter, were you could hide all the isolators and Serge protection devices. So that the install would look way cleaner without all those separate devices on the wall
I can't believe the amount of dangerous workmanship just goes to show even qualified electricians can mess up solar installs
Converting a residential house to a factory look. Also just wait until the home owner has to fit an air sourced heat pump. The natural location would be on the outside wall immediately opposite the existing boiler where all your gear is fitted.
Wait until it rains heavy
Agreed
Absolutely needs a cabinet. Those batteries are not cheap
I was showing my son this very install yesterday on our dog walk as it is the first Libbi I have seen. Lovely couple keep a bowl of water out for passing dogs 😃
Should never do top entry on accessories outside especially bushed out of a galv trunking water will sit inside the trunking. You actually get IP rated galv trunking but its a lot more expensive than standard.
100% they will back at some point to replace that!
Turn off DC switches and safe to unplug. I had a DC flash recently on 17 panel string when unplugging an MC4 plug. Even with AC off. Not pleasant. So no load and it’s safe.
so, in a nutshell, the super expensive my libbi stuff is the same capacity as very affordable growatt. Thanks for the info.
And the GivEnergy All in One is better value.
but the libbi is obv integrated with the rest of the range (zappi etc)
And poorly featured compared to anything Victorn produce (I've my whole house running off the protected circuit of my Victron, only reason I know there's a power failure is the email Victron sends me).
That’s drop per MPPT is massive?
How can manufacturer make such an error?
Absolutely 😂and we only fit growatt ,Victron or Solis 😮😊
Impressive video, level of integrity 👍🏽👍🏻
Personally if I were John I'd have had a fall arrest harness on that close to that edge, with the railing pretty well above his body when he was laying down.
Not nit picking, just a comment what I'd have done. I am a Sparkie working in commercial construction in another country though.
I have a similar system in our garage as we're lucky enough to have one. Even so, if I didn't, I'd happily that that equipment at the side of the house. No one will see it, and I'll still be mostly off-grid day and night. I'd probably install a canopy though to keep the worst of the rain off it.
Working at height you should use tethered tools, what if a child walks by, you could kill them or you must make sure scaffolding netting is around whole area, it's cheap stuff. When I was a builder no. 1 rule was safe sites and practises.
A previous video showed install suspended as tool from roof fell and Jordan was not wearing his hard hat. He was so adamant after that abut safety and yet here is a new video showing people using strippers and side cutters . NOT forgivable. Get your wallet out and buy a group of equipment purely for high level installs and no other tools to be taken up high. You really do not want the momentum a pair of side cutters gains going through anyone’s head and causing death or serious injury. WAKE UP NOW !!
@@christopherkingston9601 it's basic knowledge pal and if I was the boss no one would get up two steps without tools attached or netting attached. How about hse comes on site and tool hits the floor, what are you going to say. Doesn't cost anything to get right tether tools wires, they fit existing tools. If a tool kills someone they are going to prison. Trust me you do not want hse on your case.
Get a life dude
You should email a formal complaint to him as then he would more or less be required to act upon it by law (although should have already acted upon it)
Yep simply not good enough. These guys charge premium rates and then pull these kinds of stunts... This is basic stuff, they shouldn't be operating at heights at all if they can't demonstrate that they are able to do so in a safe and reliable manner.
mpressive video, level of integrity 👍🏽👍🏻 ,just discovered your channel by luck and love the work of the team and the humour .iam not an electrition but and an IT Technician. i use your chanel as learning channel.
Great job clearly explained.
A very minor and trivial observation; I was pleased to see you using the Seaward device as I used to work for them a couple of decades ago. Pleased that they are still going strong.
I use the PV150 from Seaward, I’m astounded very few others do and just use a basic clamp meter.
That’s some proper industrial looking steel trunking on the side of the house 😂
Should have taken time to paint it
How long before that rusts, as rust it will?
I'd be really annoyed that "My Energy" changed the spec for the inverters at that stage of the game.
It's taken four of you to rewire the panels as a result of this plus extra changes to the work you'd already done plus additional kit.
Who's responsibility is it to pay for this and what lessons are there for the future?
What lessons for the future? Don't be a guinea pig for brand new products to market.
Or wait untill you have all the parts?@@markrainford1219
Well the specs are changed for safety reason, you rather have them not change the specs?
The specs were changed because they cocked up and released an unfinished product.@@bartpander
Well, they better sell safe equipment to the customers first time.
And what kind of work is done on the outside !?
Looks like inside of a industry, everyone could have fun Turning off and on.
Even stealing everything on the wall !?
Never seen such a unsafe ugly install ever, even children could have fun with this electric wall.
Unsafe ugly install, I would never accept anything like this on my wall.
Even if they paying me a million for having it.
I am from Norway, never seen install like this on a house with solar...
Always look forward to the videos every week 👌
Shouldn’t those exterior cables have drip loops ?
I have 12 x 320 watt solar panels connected straight into my 5.5kW inverter in my garage with 8 x 6v 229 Ah batteries also connected to my inverter which is connected to my consumer unit to supply my house electrics with a mains isolater switch and I don't have any of these electrical gadgets they have connected up and it has working fine for over a year now.
Yes your correct.
Neat job as usual. Not sure about galv trunking installed externally and AC isolator below it. How are you going to prevent rain water finding its way into AC isolator through trunking and couplers?
That was my first thought as well. Surely that type of galv' is internal - not for external water ingress protection??
Exactly my thoughts too - that trunking will fill up with water and run into the isolator now fitted underneath....wasn't so bad when everything was above the trunking but water now has a path straight into that isolator.
@@blower1 I dont understand why they fitted another isolator, they already have a 4 pole one there used to switch 2 poles 🤦♂
@@404_-_Not_-_Found maybe they need to isolate each string individually. 🤔
@@404_-_Not_-_Foundwith DC isolators they use a 4 pole isolator but loop it through, so actually they are only 2 pole functionally.
Always disconnect the load before unplugging the MC4s
Yes a insulated cabinet so in winter batteries stay warmer. I have my setup in my basement where it stays around 60F all year.
Did you ran the negative wire along the positive next to each other to prevent an inductionloop? On your drawing it seems not the case.
Try considering a GRP enclosure. They come in multiple sizes and some, some, I've used them in the past for outdoor swimming pools with limited enclosures or housing an array of solar pv equipment
You're correct with the MC4. But if you disconnect while they're connected to a load (inverter) you have to change because of the arc.
How would you go about disconnecting MC4s from panels connected to an inverter. Let’s say there was already a system installed and you were looking to add extra panels to one of the strings
@@Patrick-ni3xy Turn off the inverter by disconnecting it from the grid and turn off DC-switch.
Isn't that AC isolator going to be filled with rain water pretty quick??
You are better off running 2 strings anyway. That way if a panel dies, the client still has 1/2 of their solar system operational
I thought the same thing. Plus, most inverters with 2 inputs should be equally balanced if possible.
This. Would help with MPPT too, assuming the Libby has dual string tracking.
Also stops the array being a massive induction loop.
I'm fairly sure the IET solar code of practice recommends keeping both legs of the string no more than 10cm apart.
You are correct that the MC4's could arc if disconnected @ the MC4, while producing under sunlight and while under load. 'Load' meaning a closed circuit i.e. with the inverter/MPPT. If the panels are all connected in a string but disconnected from a load, it is safe to disconnect them. In fact, I like to break the string if I'm working near both ends of the string with full voltage on them. Treat the string as a battery pack with corresponding voltage. Cut the string in half if you want no risk of arcing or shock (especially if you're wet with sweat and handing both of the MC4 connectors)
0:16 how did you prefend round spots from those vacume handles ? I always get circles that are difficult to get rid of
Hi mate, your cable plan in still incorrect.
For a correct Solar installation always use a induction circle.
Wich means that the positif wire goes all allongside every solarpanel.
Read in to it.
And keep up the good work, love the vids!!!
Interesting comments about putting all the gear into one enclosure. Perhaps in the future new homes will have a machinery room just for equipment for solar / heat pump / fibre broadband / whatever else comes along in the future 😊
They do this in Europe, have done for a long time. But we build houses so small here there's barely room for a dishwasher nevermind a plant room
in the rabit hutch sized new builds a plant room would described as a large dining room
Also check specks of wego connectors. As I believe a bare wire has better connection than a feral
Bootlace. Victron has a good documentary about terminals regarding the issue with multi strand cable an the heat issues that happen
Who footed the bill for the extra work required? Was it yourselves? The customer? Or myenergi as they’ve changed specs after the fact? (unlikely but thought would add it in)
I would assume the customer had to fork out, maybe with a little bit of goodwill from Artisan and MyEnergi, but an explanation would have completed the video further!
That outdoor AC isolator contravenes BS7671, the 20mm galv couplings are not water proof and are mounted beneath the 50mm trunking. This will allow water to ingress not only through the couplings, but also through the trunking when it fills with rain water too.
Good work, but there must be a neater solutions to hide the ac / dc isolator and fuse board, I would not like that on the side of my house.
What is the part number for the DC wago connectors? And what optimisers work best with the libbi? And why weren’t they used here
Wayne has such a lovely manner about him, must be nice to work with 🙌
That is one rough install there ac isolation drilled through the top so will fill up especially the fact you have only done that to accommodate a dc isolator when you already have a 4 pole there you could have used for both strings and your cable management under the panels is a non compliant joke those cables will rub through against the tiles within years. You guys should be promoting good work
At my place code requires that dc conductors for bateries (and other unprotected sources) should be separated at least 30 cm (by old regulations, new is comething less, not sure how much) if not protected by fuse or circuit breaker (not switch, breaker as breaking short circuit currents). Putting wires in same pipe from solar panel would be a big no no at my place, but watching various clips from around the world, it seems that only we have that regulation. This is a real pain when doing batery wiring for transformer stations and similar (110VDC) where bateries need to have separate room also (naturaly vented). Nice work, love the videos. Best Regards
@artisanelectrics recently my energi have recommended the zappi has a type a rcd at the distribution board, one of their prime selling points was that the zappi has a built in rcd. Will you be adding extra rcds on your previous installs?
Is it good practice to use metal trunking out side in the rain ?
I thought this - that stuff is gonna fill up with water under heavy rain....and from what I can see the isolator that has now been fitted beneath it has cables running off the trunking that are not glanded and the water will run into the Isoiator!
You can get IP55 rated outdoor trunking which has various seals but this stuff looks to be the standard IP4X (no water ingress protection) trunking.
No.
Nice move when working with live panels or making off live dc cables to use insulated gloves, although the panel connectors are fully shrouded it could easily be contaminated with water or …other contaminants. Any slight leakage will eventually cause a carbon track which you would not like to touch especially as you now measured voltage of I think 220v at 1.5 ampere.
Where would the current flow to?
@@markrainford1219 It could flow between connectors for example ,the carbon track is a semi conductor so if its damp it makes matters worse. You may be tracing the dc strings for example with your bare hands while holding on to the mounting rail.
If you are up a roof and you get a even a static shock , it may be enough to make you recoil and loss your balance.
Regarding those CT clamps can you install them on a domestic installation without a EV charger and have (hardware) software running on a enterprise server?
I'm at the beginning of setting up a proper network in our house complete with a server for several services and would like to keep an eye on our total electric consumption.
Hi Jordan, was the latest IET code of practise applied with regards the location of the consumer earth electrode? I am training to be an electrician so keen to learn.
Unplugging should be safe, if and only if you don't have a complete circuit, because then there is current flow, but you'll have a potential difference, between the MC4 connectors in this case. If there is a short, in this case without the inverter, then there most likely will be a massive current flowing in the circuit. For how long, depends on multitude of things, internal resistance, protective elements etc.
Nice video - I’m new to solar pv and was wondering about earthing? There’s no earthing I can see on the modules or mounting rail?
Lovely zappi. They should make granny chargers that are capable charging at the speed of the excess solar.
Hi Jordan - Great job and fantastic example of what you can achieve with a cohesive team who are artisan in what they do. I have some naive questions as a potential customer... Why are you using myenergi (due to the Zappi)? Have you used Tesla's Solar Panel PVs? If not, why not? Why did you not go for the Tesla Wall as your battery storage? In general, how much would it cost for a 6-panel Solar PV System? Thanks in advance, Abi.
Last I heard there is a 1-2 year wait for the Tesla power wall.
Available next day in U.K.
Sorry to ask but why didnt you use both strings from the original install? Wouldnt that have been best practice incase of shading/dirt/birdmuck etc?
Aren't you supposed to mount a fused separator between the soler panels and the SPD so that in case of a overcurent the SPD blows the fuse and stops the flow of current?
What type of RCBO is the solar and battery install on? I know solar systems are to be on a type B rcd but I can seem to find a type B rcbo. Just curious.
It seems that in the event of a power cut, only the boiler will be able to still run, the battery installed was quite substantial though. Does the battery mostly just store energy for the car charger and not supply power to the house at night?
Did that LCD screen break when you pulled off the protective film?
No, it's a mix between the LCD polariser and the same on the camera lens.
@@voltare2amstereo Thank you for explaining 😃
Wont covers on side of the panels block convection cooling? My black panels generate pretty strong heat convection underneath the panels and hot air is rushing out from the top.
@5:15 Those connectors you can disconnect while energized by the panel, as they're fully sealed and potted, BUT you cannot disconnect them under load. They will arc internally. Especially with many panels in a row the ~10A has a lot of potential behind it. That can permanently damage the pins or compromise the housing. Make sure your DC disconnects are open before unplugging.
Who do you disconnect the the DC ?
Good to see John and Reuben again after they did a great job on my house,can you tell them my spur has not blown again since they left. Omg probably tempting fate lol
Not with quality work.
@iHelpSolveIt hi I can only speak of my experience and they both done extremely good work
@@Vicdavies151 from what ive seen, You're not tempting fate. Just in case you didn't catch what I meant
Just curious how you secured the additional pair of cables you ran under the panels to split the single string into two. If you were due to lift all the panels there would've been no need for the cable rods, so presumably they're just dangling on the tiles unsecured???
18:58 shouldn't this be independent instead of parallel? I believe it should as that tells both MPPT's to work independent from each other. In fact using the parallel settings would have allowed you to not change the roof layout and just use Y-splitters to use both mppt-trackers as one for one string. But libbi manual and forum isn't clear about this. Other inverters work like this though
Well done all the team you did very great job and I like your aducation and inspiration to all men out there one of them my self as an electrician.
You sure that cable is RS485 / Belden data cable @ 16:07
I can't see any sign of a foil screen/drain wire and it doesn't look like a twisted pair. Cable looks like standard control cable which is definitely not suitable for RS485 data connections which should be screened (especially since they are running along side 230v cables) and be a twisted pair for correct impedance matching and common mode interference suppression via differential signalling.
You might be right there, but it's hard to tell without seeing it being stripped back. It's not great but if it's only going a few metres from the inside control box through the wall to the inverter, it probably won't matter too much.
Please can you let me know what panels and inverter you advise to use also I like the trim around the edge can you pass on details please
I asked SolarEdge in May and they confirmed any product used to clean their PV panels, needs "... it has a neutral Ph level which won't damage the surface of the panels." My cleaning company used Benz Bio Cleanz diluted 30-50:1.
Rain has been enough for me over 12 years. My data logger shows same output. I think "cleaning" is a bit of a scam. Sure if it's covered in bird mess, but a little light dust etc negligible impact on performance
@@marshp3 Agreed, but it is the algae/moss/lichen that the rain has little or no effect on. Even after 15 months from install, the growth had already started. The cleaning fluid used on my panels ahs a biocide in it to inhibit that growth.
@MrBobmeadows I'm surprised it can adhere to what is a glass like surface. Mine are on a 45 degree pitch south facing, so I don't get much moss on the tiles anyway
@@marshp3 Mine are almost South too, but nice to have self-cleaning panels.
The skirt looks good aesthetically, how will it affect the panel temperature during hot weather? Surely it must restrict air movement under the panels?
It will cause the panels to heat up quicker but still cooler than an inroof system
Are you going through the G99 process as your installing a 5.0kw inverter?
Why is all of the stuff mounted outside? So that trespasers have it easier to temper with the battery and inverter?
A max 4 pannels per string , that’s going to be a serious issue for many 4kw per string and even some 7kw existing strings which only use 2 strings in total to 6-8kwh which use 8 or more panels per string exceeding the amps or 3.5 kwh per string especially with new 400+ w panels, new pannels are rumoured to pass 460 w for 68 cell this year myenergy need to rethink support for larger arrays as others will look elsewhere if forced to buy a more expensive inverter 3 string or more
Make sure there is no load then you can disconnect I would normally disconnect in the middle of the string then disconnect panels as you like
So who picked up the tab for the spec change causing all the extra work? Myenergi I would hope.
My system has two strings but I only have one DC isolator - I'm not a spark but I think it is a "double pole" one? Wouldnt that have been better than trying to shoehorn in a 2nd one?
That’s what I thought, and wasn’t the existing isolator double pole? The 2nd one wasn’t double pole so no real need?
You can do it with one. Reason I'd use 2 is if you have an issue with 1 string you can easily isolate that one separately and work on it while the 2nd string can still operate
Whats stopping the AC isolator filling up with water? The steel trunking won't seal against rain etc.
Hopes and prayers. And billable return calls. 😆
No! MC4 are not designed to disconnect under load. They will arc and be damaged. But if there is no current flowing through the connector then they are not "under load" even with hundreds of volts at the connection.
we have much hotter weather in australia, yet its always recommended to install the battery outdoors.
if those batteries catch fire they will take down a house pretty quickly, Lithium batteries regardless of chemistry used are very difficult to put out. at least if installed outdoors one may save their house if the worst happens...
What is the W of the panels and how big mm2 is the cable? in Sweden you can have 16p 415w panels on a 6mm2 cable. And a mc4 should be ok to disconnect if there is no load on the string of panels, If there is load you will get the nice free energy in the body and it hurts (i know how it feels :D)
how about sharing a circuit diagram? Really interested in seeing different parts of the world regulations
My understanding is that it is ok (with basic electrical precautions) to disconnect MC4 DC cable (break the string) with NO load. ie. DC Isolator OFF.
We do it all the time your correct 😊
I have to ask. Was the screen on the PV150 damaged or is it just the camera angle?
Everyone complaining about the industrial look are forgetting people that get these installed want everyone to know so they can tell people how much of a better person they are 😂
Did someone say “ant hammer” 😂 ❤
I was under the impression Artisan was already MCS registered? How have you been completing all the past solar jobs without, I know you can but there are drawbacks with thst such as no SEG for the customer & void warranties...Can you please explain
the installation should be in a large enclosure which is lockable , not only is it better appearance it is also a security issue
When did the DC surge protector rule come in? My system doesnt have them, it was installed in August 2022?
I had solar installed this month with no DC surge protection - only AC surge protection. My understanding is -:
Section 712
We also have some changes to section 712, with respects to surge protection.
Regulation 712.443.101 states that where protection against transient overvoltage is required by section 443, such protection shall also be applied to the DC side of the PV installation.
This will mean that if the electrical installation requires surge protection to be fitted to comply with section 443, as discussed above, SPDs would now also need to be installed on the DC side of the installation to protect both the PV panels and the inverter.
When the inverter incorporates an SPD, it is only considered as fulfilling the SPD requirement if the manufacturer specifies its use for the DC side of the PV installation, otherwise, it will need an external SPD. Varistors included in the inverter are not considered an SPD.
Surge protection devices designed for the use on the DC side of a PV system are designed to a different standard than SPDs used in low voltage installations. Although they are still described by using type 1 and type 2, as explained above, where type 1 devices are to protect against direct lightning, it is extremely important that only devices designed for use on the DC side of a PV installation are used. All SPD’s installed on the DC side of a PV installation shall comply with BS EN 61643-31.
@@rdstewart14 "...................as explained above, where type 1 devices are to protect against direct lightning,....................."
Nothing protects against a direct lightning strike - it blows everything around it to shreds. The whole concept of a surge arrestor, of the types mentioned, protecting against direct lightning is, IMHO, absurd. I have seen the effects of direct strikes on remote radio installations - not pretty.
As with my own installation in the porch, all the associated switchgear, warning stickers and trunking is so ugly, it's a shame for domestic premises that it can't be all put in one modular/integrated box or even a cabinet in another location, similar to telecoms. Would also be worried about gypsies taking it.
Are you guys likely to start installing Enphase any time soon?
If you're ever in doubt about the safety of disconnecting PV DC under load, there is an extremely simple solution: Drape a dust sheet or tarpaulin over the panels whilst you disconnect them. If they can't see the sun they can't hurt you.
In general, whether it's safe or not varies greatly, with only 8 panels you should be fine as the peak voltage won't be too high. With long strings you have to be very careful.
As long as switched off and Isolated at the Invertor or DC Isolator it is safe to unplug the MC4 Connectors without risk of arcing.
Great video
But you can get dual string DC isolators and PVC trucking would likely survive bit longer outside
The existing isolator was 4 pole, not sure why they didn't just use that for both strings, rather than installing a second 2 pole one!
@@404_-_Not_-_Foundcurrent rating lads. If you run it thru all poles you double your current rating
Imo I'd the only real DC tested isolator most others are rebadged ac isolators with poor contacts 😢
@@bramcoteelectrical1088 It was wired it in series through two contacts for + and -, not parallel...
@@404_-_Not_-_Found I looked wrongly at it lol my bad 😎🤣🕴🤓
How about inverter startup voltage. Before change there was 10 panels in series and if the inverter startup voltage is 80 volts then inverter starts when one panel voltage is 8 volts. After change there is only 5 panels in series and the panel voltage for one panel should be 16 volts that inverter starts? Does this affect to electricity production - is the production lower when there is not direct sunlight?
Any solar panel really needs direct sunlight to work correctly. Indirect sunlight or diffused light (cloudy day) will massively reduce power output. For instance, with two 545W panels on a perfectly clear day, I've had nearly 1kW output. On a cloudy day, more like 200W. The open circuit voltage doesn't really matter, as the panels won't be generating a useful amount of power until the voltage is about half-way to the normal full-sun output voltage.
Can understand the system not being a true UPS with slight pause in switchover, but what was the point about power variation from battery to mains? Is the inverter not delivering full 230v when using full battery output in "UPS" mode?
Maybe it outputs exactly 230V and the mains voltage there is noticeably higher or lower, my computer UPS does that.
Shouldn't the RS485 connection be made via a screened twisted pair cable?
Yes it should, and zooming in on that cable in the video it neither looks screened or twisted pair. It's a short run so will work but it could be susceptible to EM interference such as from a mobile phone being used near by. They could find that the controller occasionally looses connection to the external Libi unit.
Where is it required to have DC string SPD? Ive not seen it on any installs really as inverters usually have surge protection. Also was not aware that it was required to have two AC rotary isolators at CU and inverter. Would be keen to know if you can direct me where this information is as I am a solar installer.
Which inverters do you know of that have surge protection built in? SolarEdge three phase inverters have it but not single phase ones. Check the latest version of BS7671 under section 712: This section specifically addresses solar PV systems. Regulation 712.443.101 states that where protection against transient overvoltage is required by section 443, such protection shall also be applied to the DC side of the PV installation. This means that if the electrical installation requires surge protection to comply with section 443, SPDs would also need to be installed on the DC side of the solar PV installation to protect both the PV panels and the inverter.
Thanks for responding, Lux power and Fox-ess have single phase units with SPD protection stated on the data-sheet. Also spoke to the technical team at Alpha ESS where they were not under the impression it was required, although that was a commercial three-phase system. This is useful to know though thank you. Main reason I ask is that I have never seen or installed them myself.
There is some grey area for me if the protection was provided through software as that should not be relied on but manufacturers instructions takes precedence over regs. Guess you can never be too careful with providing enough protection for these systems as if something does go wrong it would be very difficult to not be liable the way the regs are structured. If in doubt get conformation form the manufacturer I guess.
Having moved into the industry this year I am happy to rely on others designs currently but want to make sure I'm getting it right for my own installs in the future. It seems there is still a lot to be ironed out though in the industry. Your content is very useful!
I'd prefer the kit indoors but i don't mind the "industrial" look that people seem to mention but then again I'm not one for having a show home, as long as the house is well kept that's as much as i care.