The main advice, that I discovered after time - slow down a bit. - Plants don't really need so much light (reduce the daytime) - Plants do not need so much nutrients - And stop feeding fish so often. (It will become more active when hungry) When u slow down - u don't need to crop plants that often too!! The more resources u throw in water - the harder it's becoming to balance it. So there is no need in expensive water conditioners and vitamins, unless u r preparing aquarium for a show and have no time.
100% agree with #1, first and foremost focus on growing healthy plants! MJ mentioned this in a previous video as well and I used that strategy. That change in mindset vs "I need to get rid of algae" mindset was a game changer.
Love that suggestion to enjoy your maintenance sessions. 🙂 I've been doing a lot of research on the different types of algae and what causes each of the variations. I've come to think of a particular type of algae as an indicator of the environmental conditions for healthy plant growth. I love the suggestion to focus on healthy plant growth. Light, CO2 and organic nutrients .. Understanding each element and controlling those variables to create and maintain a Holistically Balanced Environment conducive to healthy plant growth.
I am just more than a year into this hobby and faced lot of issues that are mentioned here. I overcame them by experimenting, learning and with patience. Cleaning crew is a must for any planted aquarium.
Thanks for sharing that adjust the light intensity by checking the the leaves on the plants 7:26, Yeah I also play music during the aquarium maintenance, it's pretty enjoyable.
Excellent advice and great production. Just to concur and add a little bit of my experience. Lack of CO2 and excess light duration and high levels of Phosphate and Nitrate cause algae blooms in aquariums and in lakes and rivers. There are complicated relationships involved, so simply eliminating high Nitrate may not work. Temperature plays a part but unless in the high 20s not sufficient to worry about. Floating plants can be very helpful, if regularly harvested, they soften light intensity and mop up Nitrate. My advice on first signs of an algae bloom emerging: check CO2 (plants desperately need CO2 to be healthy and win the battle), your bottle might be running out or your system for dissolving CO2 failing (I normally use an in-reactor) and check Nitrate and Phosphate levels, aquarium test kits are not that accurate but accurate enough to pick up problem levels. In well-lit (in terms of intensity) plants aquariums with adequate CO2 (plus 15 ppm), plants will pearl when healthy and generally will outcompete algae (as said in the video) when the photoperiod is between 6 and 8 hours, yes, you can with good lighting get away with only 6 hours, the one major point I disagree with Diana Walstad about (she recommends 8-10) hours, and I have the lush algae free planted tanks to prove it. With intense light - 1 watt of LED per litre - 6 hours of light is normally enough. So watch out for sunlight giving your tank an extra unnoticed morning or afternoon blast - a big problem in northern Europe in late spring early autumn when the sun is not at full height (and thus strikes windows) but is quite intense. Sunlight is fine if it is part of your photo period and the tank is getting plenty of CO2 - though the glass will obviously get green algae. The oft advised, locate your tank a in dark corner of a room, is fair enough, but how many of us have dark corners? Take care as said in the video with water column nutrients excess Iron is sometimes a problem (less so with hard water) and most tanks, most of the time, really don't need a lot of Nitrate and Phosphate, take real care if dosing - the EI approach requires lots of large water changes. Oddly Potassium the third macro nutrient is often deficient in tanks with vigorously growing plants. Thanks again Mark, good luck to everybody.
Great video - loved it :) there’s no better feeling than when everything just balances out and you can just enjoy your tank w/o any headaches likes algae.
Thanks for this helpful video again! For me I reduced my algae by alot with: - adding more shrimps, let them breed naturally - feed once every 3 days - reduce light intensity - reduce ferts by half. Using APT and it's abit strong for my tank - increase co2
Hej MJ, great vid as always! I noticed that some of your aquariums are kinda low stocked with fish, others have to seem much more. Would you care to make an episode on your stocking density per aquarium, as well as on stocking theory itself? I am new to the hobby, and hopelessly aim for too much fish, because there are so many i wish i could keep 🤔😅 I guess stocking density itself plays a role i balancing the tank and keep algae in line. Cheers and all the best!!!
#4 is one I wish more hobbyist's would catch on too. Liquid fertilizer will cause algal growth, IF: you are dosing more than your plant (or bio-mass) can up take. Fish waste is a nutrient, once broken down. So the same is true for a heavy fish loads (particularly in N & P) Ideally, a tank wants enough constituent nutrients to satisfy what is know as the "nutrient sufficiency curve" of a plant; where your individual nutrients are Neither "deficient" nor at "toxicity", for your entire array of plants (it is species and pH dependent). And your plant growth will be dictated according to "Leibig's Law of the Minimum", which does include Carbon when in an aqueous environment. The reason it's so hard to nail down is that each tank's bio load (fish, invert's, etc.) and the primary producers (photosynthetic plants, algae, bacteria) are all variable. So different hobbyist's encounter differing experience. So: If you have a ton of fish, or you're dosing far too much/too often: increasing the plant density is how you compensate. If that's not an answer a hobbyist wants to hear: then reduce dosing or fish load. If neither are acceptable: enjoy increasing your water change schedule as you now need to focus on dilution.
Good and useful information - straight to the point, I really like that :) Your tip on getting a clean up crew is good, just as long as especially beginners dont expect miracles on all types of algea.
I HAVE FINALLY INSTALLED PLANTS, a couple of cryptocorines. and i installed six female guppies. for now i'll watch how the fish and the plants fair, then i will add i hope a carpet of montecarlo, and a couple of stem plants. then i will add chery shrimps :) after months of preparations i have finally something with movement to see from my desk :D (also, i found out that my rgb controller i used for my custom light burned, so i replaced the part that burned ( a section of pcb to small to handle 12v 6amps) with wire and added a radiator the transistors that where getting hot) wish me luck as i hope none of my stuff burns my house because i cheaped out on aliexpress
Thanks for the video, very well-presented and informative. It took me years to defend algae in just a small aquarium on the window sill. It is very true as you say that first and foremost one should shift attention to getting the plants healthy. Love your plantations!!!
untuk co2 drop checker, aku harap letakkan sejauh mungkin dan sebawah mungkin dari sumber co2, untuk memastikan jika co2 benar-benar terlarut dengan sempurna.
i learn from a friend of mine that said 'algae is the balancing factor of the tank' green spot? check your K, its probably high hair, stag or event bba? check yout CO, its probably fluctuating too much diatoms? probably your tank needs algae eater and clean up crew from that point on, i always rely on algae to tell me whats wrong in my tank 😅
Thx again for your thoughts. I have a low tech tank and struggling with BBA. I do spot treat that with liquid CO2 about every 2 month, that keeps it under control. Removed a fast growing plant with a slow grower to see what will happen to the BBA in a few months. Other algue are under control, the clean up crew needs something to eat as well ;-). Just started another tank an aiming for some Otocinclus and Cherry shrimps to work with the algue in a few months time.
My tank is on its 63rd day from set up. And I have all those that you have mentioned... By experience, out of that 10 ways, WATER CHANGE is the most effective.......
this is kind of an off question. Do you control water temperature when you do a water change? I read somewhere that to maintain water temperature you should first fill a bucket and add a heater to it, so that the water change water is the same temperature as your tank. I've been a fish keeper for a long time but want to up my game to aquascaping and have never kept anything that is sensitive to temperature changes like shrimp.
Unless you have really high flow and aeration, you won’t be able to maximise the CO2 level during the photoperiod as the CO2 will rise to toxic levels at night. It’s still better than no CO2 but it’s not going to give the the same results as CO2 optimised for the photoperiod.
Here's a question for you Mark, one you probably heard MANY times before!! "Why am I still struggling with AMMONIA"? My 29gal long tank has been running for about 4 months now. I am using "Prime" & "Stability" in the hopes the tank is still cycling. I will admit I made a few mistakes at the beginning when the ammonia was an issue due to stress over the ammonia spikes (mostly not giving the BB a chance to grow). Since then, I have added 2 plants and a 2nd filter (Now running an Aqueon 20 LED Pro & a Tidal 35). I have adequate aeration. Feed the fish every other day. Do water changes every other day (as needed/ammonia). WHY can't I get the ammonia level or the BB to eat up the ammonia. No fish loss in months. Your thoughts?
Hope you don't mind me jumping in before Mark - adequate and mature filtration, I use dirty established media when setting up a new tank and never get a trace ammonia reading. Many ears ago I lost some cardinal tetras to ammonia in new tank because I used new media. Cut the aeration and get some floating plants.
Hi Mj. My tank is three week old and in this current week i found yellowish and brown colored thing covered my monte carlo carpet,rock and glass area so how can i remove this ,can you please help me regarding this issue.and i am also found brown color hair on plants and substrate area.plzzz help.
Ik ben benieuwd wat jij vindt van die fora op internet vol met mensen die de Estimative Index manier de enige goeie manier vinden en die Tom Barr als hun God zien! Toen ik EI deed kreeg ik zoveel alg. Ik kon het snoeien ook niet bijhouden. En toch geloven zoveel mensen er heilig in! Nu alles lean dosen, en gaat veel beter.
I've had a poor quality LED light and although it was not extremely powerful, generated a good amount of algae, so I firmly believe that poor quality lighting can be the cause of algea. As for the CO2, what you want is a good distribution of dissolved CO2 and not necessarily the bubbles. Thanks for the tips, looking forward to the next vid.
Not sure how helpful I can be but what do you mean exactly ref. 'poor quality'? Cheap lights often are too blue or too green (green equals white light for brightness) or inadequately bright, but algae uses much the same red and blue elements of light as higher plants, marine tanks need more blue which is unnatural in shallow fresh water and in my experience can, yes, to some extent stimulate algae in fresh water. Duration and CO2 levels are in my experience much more important than light spectrum or intensity - but the light has to be bright enough for plants to grow. Ref. CO2 I use a CO2 reactor, no CO2 bubbles floating about, only oxygen bubbles from the pearling plants an hour or so before the lights go off, it takes a good hour for the lights to stimulate the plants and about 5 hours in my tank for the water to be saturated with oxygen to the point that bubbles can be seen on leaves. Light: try to use bulbs of 3000 to 4000K and make sure you have at least 1 watt of LED light for two litres of water. CO2: 15 ppm is a good compromise, higher levels take you into a region where fish losses are close, i.e. 40 ppm is risking it, ADA solve the problem by aerating when the lights go off. I have used an air stone on a timer for night-time when pushing up CO2 levels in the distant past. Good luck.
Great video Mark! I’m currently waiting for plants to be in stock to set up my first pressurized co2 aquarium. I have a finnex planted plus hlc on a 29g aquarium and am unsure what % I should start the lights at. It’s 18 inches tall. I was thinking maybe 70%?
That depends on the PAR of your lamp and the volume of your aquarium (soil and rocks height for example). You can try a LUX app on your cellphone and aim for medium light and eventually increase it to high light. I always set up my lights based on the Tropica lumen chart.
Really good timing with this video! Am currently losing a war with hair algae and was about to reach out and ask for support! I'll try what you've suggested and that should do the trick.
@@glasscanvasart5273 I have a very strong flow (almost too strong for my poor ram and shrimps) and keep the light on for 8 hours/day. That being said, the system has only had proper CO2 for about 10 days now. I'll reduce the lighting period to 6 hours per day?
@@MJAquascaping thanks mate I'll keep it at 8. My ram has HITH now too so there's something not quite right... I'll see how it goes over the next week. Thanks for the reply guys.
@@MJAquascaping hey mate thanks for the advice! I left my CO2 at 1 bubble per second and the light on at 8 hours a day. Not only is the algae gone, but my ram's HITH has also started to heal. The tank is looking great. Cheers again!
actually for number 10 isn't necessary in my nano aquascape/shrimp tank, i have perfectly carpeted monte carlo and healthy Rotala with water change of 30% once in a month, but this can happen by not dosing liquid fertilizer (with help of nutritious aqua soil), not using any rock (especially type of rock that release mineral) by that my water parameter almost stay the same for a month p.s. sorry for the bad english
Just found your channel & I love your aquascapes!! How do you get your moss to grow in little balls like that in the driftwood tank? I ordered buce & phoenix moss to recreate the lava rock scape you did! 😍😍
Is there a video of you missing? A video where you made a tour on a shop. You highlighted a shallow tank of them. I came to rewatch but couldn't find it. Help
now here are the typical aquascaper explanations why something happens and why not ... Why does a brush alga occur less frequently in a Co2 operated tank and why it does not grow as well? You should look at the nature of the algae and then you will quickly see why they are less common in acidic water and why their structure is destroyed there. And adding co2 makes the water acidic. In the case of green algae, it can have a different effect because algae are in the world that produce most of the oxygen from co2. Too much fertilizer allows the algae to thrive and CO2 helps here. so it is more due to the fertilizer which is OVERDOSED in most of the scapes. there are beautiful tanks that are almost free of plants and without algae ... so it can't be because of the amount of plants
The main advice, that I discovered after time - slow down a bit.
- Plants don't really need so much light (reduce the daytime)
- Plants do not need so much nutrients
- And stop feeding fish so often. (It will become more active when hungry)
When u slow down - u don't need to crop plants that often too!!
The more resources u throw in water - the harder it's becoming to balance it.
So there is no need in expensive water conditioners and vitamins, unless u r preparing aquarium for a show and have no time.
100% agree with #1, first and foremost focus on growing healthy plants!
MJ mentioned this in a previous video as well and I used that strategy. That change in mindset vs "I need to get rid of algae" mindset was a game changer.
Ty!
Love that suggestion to enjoy your maintenance sessions. 🙂 I've been doing a lot of research on the different types of algae and what causes each of the variations. I've come to think of a particular type of algae as an indicator of the environmental conditions for healthy plant growth. I love the suggestion to focus on healthy plant growth. Light, CO2 and organic nutrients .. Understanding each element and controlling those variables to create and maintain a Holistically Balanced Environment conducive to healthy plant growth.
Love your videos and the excellent videography. Your advice is always clear and makes sense.
I am just more than a year into this hobby and faced lot of issues that are mentioned here. I overcame them by experimenting, learning and with patience. Cleaning crew is a must for any planted aquarium.
Video perfect
U made it easier for newbies we learned it the hard way
Congratulations for the video! Extremely didactic. Thanks!
Very Helpfull Video for people that search for an answer for they Algeaproblem!
Have a nice Day and Stay safe ☺️
Very informative.
Learned something as always.
My inspiration is you.
Love from India
your videos are so helpful! In every video I can learn something...!
Thank you, your video was very helpful.
100% game changer
Perfect point 👍
gracias por compartir tu conocimiento y ayudarnos para seguir en este maravilloso hobby...saludos desde colombia
Thanks a lot 👍
A great guide, short and to the point! Keep 'em coming! This is one of my favorite fishtube channels.
Thanks for sharing that adjust the light intensity by checking the the leaves on the plants 7:26,
Yeah I also play music during the aquarium maintenance, it's pretty enjoyable.
tq for lot of information 🙏🙏🙏🙏👌👌👌👌👌
Thank you
Turn on some music, grab a couple towels and have some fun means something different in my house hold! AYEOHHHH! Lets GO!!!!!
😂
Awesome video that explains things really well
Excellent advice and great production. Just to concur and add a little bit of my experience.
Lack of CO2 and excess light duration and high levels of Phosphate and Nitrate cause algae blooms in aquariums and in lakes and rivers.
There are complicated relationships involved, so simply eliminating high Nitrate may not work.
Temperature plays a part but unless in the high 20s not sufficient to worry about. Floating plants can be very helpful, if regularly harvested, they soften light intensity and mop up Nitrate.
My advice on first signs of an algae bloom emerging: check CO2 (plants desperately need CO2 to be healthy and win the battle), your bottle might be running out or your system for dissolving CO2 failing (I normally use an in-reactor) and check Nitrate and Phosphate levels, aquarium test kits are not that accurate but accurate enough to pick up problem levels.
In well-lit (in terms of intensity) plants aquariums with adequate CO2 (plus 15 ppm), plants will pearl when healthy and generally will outcompete algae (as said in the video) when the photoperiod is between 6 and 8 hours, yes, you can with good lighting get away with only 6 hours, the one major point I disagree with Diana Walstad about (she recommends 8-10) hours, and I have the lush algae free planted tanks to prove it. With intense light - 1 watt of LED per litre - 6 hours of light is normally enough. So watch out for sunlight giving your tank an extra unnoticed morning or afternoon blast - a big problem in northern Europe in late spring early autumn when the sun is not at full height (and thus strikes windows) but is quite intense. Sunlight is fine if it is part of your photo period and the tank is getting plenty of CO2 - though the glass will obviously get green algae. The oft advised, locate your tank a in dark corner of a room, is fair enough, but how many of us have dark corners?
Take care as said in the video with water column nutrients excess Iron is sometimes a problem (less so with hard water) and most tanks, most of the time, really don't need a lot of Nitrate and Phosphate, take real care if dosing - the EI approach requires lots of large water changes. Oddly Potassium the third macro nutrient is often deficient in tanks with vigorously growing plants.
Thanks again Mark, good luck to everybody.
Great video - loved it :) there’s no better feeling than when everything just balances out and you can just enjoy your tank w/o any headaches likes algae.
Couldn’t agree more!
Thank you so much! I'm learning a lot from your channel. :)
Btw this video is amazing especially for beginners 🥰
Thanks for this helpful video again!
For me I reduced my algae by alot with:
- adding more shrimps, let them breed naturally
- feed once every 3 days
- reduce light intensity
- reduce ferts by half. Using APT and it's abit strong for my tank
- increase co2
Great video
Very useful information. Thank you!!! Love your videos.
Your videos are always very informative 👍
been watching lots of other’s content for a year now. what this channel offers is perfect info for where i’m at. thank you soo much
Great to hear!
Hej MJ, great vid as always! I noticed that some of your aquariums are kinda low stocked with fish, others have to seem much more.
Would you care to make an episode on your stocking density per aquarium, as well as on stocking theory itself? I am new to the hobby, and hopelessly aim for too much fish, because there are so many i wish i could keep 🤔😅
I guess stocking density itself plays a role i balancing the tank and keep algae in line.
Cheers and all the best!!!
Beautifully done😍😍
nice infos..greeting from malaysia
Nice video!
these helps a lot brother. thank you very much
very helpful and easy to understand your briefing, you went straight to the point and did not waste time.
#4 is one I wish more hobbyist's would catch on too.
Liquid fertilizer will cause algal growth, IF: you are dosing more than your plant (or bio-mass) can up take.
Fish waste is a nutrient, once broken down. So the same is true for a heavy fish loads (particularly in N & P)
Ideally, a tank wants enough constituent nutrients to satisfy what is know as the "nutrient sufficiency curve" of a plant; where your individual nutrients are Neither "deficient" nor at "toxicity", for your entire array of plants (it is species and pH dependent).
And your plant growth will be dictated according to "Leibig's Law of the Minimum", which does include Carbon when in an aqueous environment.
The reason it's so hard to nail down is that each tank's bio load (fish, invert's, etc.) and the primary producers (photosynthetic plants, algae, bacteria) are all variable. So different hobbyist's encounter differing experience.
So:
If you have a ton of fish, or you're dosing far too much/too often: increasing the plant density is how you compensate.
If that's not an answer a hobbyist wants to hear: then reduce dosing or fish load.
If neither are acceptable: enjoy increasing your water change schedule as you now need to focus on dilution.
Hey man. Wonderful vidio... How do you deal with dust algea on plant leaves. It is really a problem. Hi from south africa btw. 🇿🇦🇿🇦🇿🇦
I would see if you can reduce liquid fertilizer and maybe buy a few otocinclus
Good and useful information - straight to the point, I really like that :) Your tip on getting a clean up crew is good, just as long as especially beginners dont expect miracles on all types of algea.
thanks for the great info Mark, this is going to come in handy as I have just set up my first planted tank
I HAVE FINALLY INSTALLED PLANTS, a couple of cryptocorines. and i installed six female guppies. for now i'll watch how the fish and the plants fair, then i will add i hope a carpet of montecarlo, and a couple of stem plants.
then i will add chery shrimps :)
after months of preparations i have finally something with movement to see from my desk :D
(also, i found out that my rgb controller i used for my custom light burned, so i replaced the part that burned ( a section of pcb to small to handle 12v 6amps) with wire and added a radiator the transistors that where getting hot)
wish me luck as i hope none of my stuff burns my house because i cheaped out on aliexpress
I've been in the hobby for about a year and a half and I still study a lot... I have learned a lot from your videos, thanks for sharing!
Cool, thanks!
Your content is always helpful and knowledgeable, again.. Great tips💚👍
Thanks for the video, very well-presented and informative. It took me years to defend algae in just a small aquarium on the window sill. It is very true as you say that first and foremost one should shift attention to getting the plants healthy. Love your plantations!!!
untuk co2 drop checker, aku harap letakkan sejauh mungkin dan sebawah mungkin dari sumber co2, untuk memastikan jika co2 benar-benar terlarut dengan sempurna.
Is it fine to put the filter out take under the water so I could make more flow? Does that affect the water aeration and oxygen in the water?
Great video, I learned alot
Nice keep them coming your getting much better at the vlogs now
Good video but reason number 4 is wrong, otherwise Estimated Index fertilizer would never work
thanks again for an informative video...and so beautifully made!
Glad you enjoyed it!
u help me alot with algae issues ... thx MJ
Pretty much covered it all. Great informative video.
You may try blackout method to clean algae in the tank.
What syphon and water changing thing so you use?
Hi... All your tanks are beautiful... You use only tapwater with bioconditioner?
Yes, correct
i learn from a friend of mine that said 'algae is the balancing factor of the tank'
green spot? check your K, its probably high
hair, stag or event bba? check yout CO, its probably fluctuating too much
diatoms? probably your tank needs algae eater and clean up crew
from that point on, i always rely on algae to tell me whats wrong in my tank 😅
Oh yes! Algae can tell you a lot about your tank!
8:07 what's the nano aquarium water changer you're using? Thanks!
It's the Dennerle nano mulmsauger! Very similar to this one amzn.to/3jMp6m3
Mark, its always a pleasure to watch your video and have some good guidance and its very helpful!
Many thanks!
Thx again for your thoughts. I have a low tech tank and struggling with BBA. I do spot treat that with liquid CO2 about every 2 month, that keeps it under control. Removed a fast growing plant with a slow grower to see what will happen to the BBA in a few months. Other algue are under control, the clean up crew needs something to eat as well ;-). Just started another tank an aiming for some Otocinclus and Cherry shrimps to work with the algue in a few months time.
My tank is on its 63rd day from set up. And I have all those that you have mentioned... By experience, out of that 10 ways, WATER CHANGE is the most effective.......
Another good and informative video, keep up the good work 👍🏼
How to fix New setup tank diotoms issue
Can I use these tips to get rid of brown algae??
Absolutely!
@@MJAquascaping thanks 😁😁
Very informative....👍
this is kind of an off question. Do you control water temperature when you do a water change? I read somewhere that to maintain water temperature you should first fill a bucket and add a heater to it, so that the water change water is the same temperature as your tank. I've been a fish keeper for a long time but want to up my game to aquascaping and have never kept anything that is sensitive to temperature changes like shrimp.
Nah I keep it simple, I just go by touch just making sure the water is not too hot and not too cold. That's all.
CO2 24 hours is a pretty good option to maintain pH stable, and healthy fish and plants.
But manteniance is priceless. Regards
Yep I used a lot of DIY CO2 in the past which was always on! Worked like a charm 👍
Unless you have really high flow and aeration, you won’t be able to maximise the CO2 level during the photoperiod as the CO2 will rise to toxic levels at night. It’s still better than no CO2 but it’s not going to give the the same results as CO2 optimised for the photoperiod.
Here's a question for you Mark, one you probably heard MANY times before!! "Why am I still struggling with AMMONIA"? My 29gal long tank has been running for about 4 months now. I am using "Prime" & "Stability" in the hopes the tank is still cycling. I will admit I made a few mistakes at the beginning when the ammonia was an issue due to stress over the ammonia spikes (mostly not giving the BB a chance to grow). Since then, I have added 2 plants and a 2nd filter (Now running an Aqueon 20 LED Pro & a Tidal 35). I have adequate aeration. Feed the fish every other day. Do water changes every other day (as needed/ammonia). WHY can't I get the ammonia level or the BB to eat up the ammonia. No fish loss in months. Your thoughts?
Hope you don't mind me jumping in before Mark - adequate and mature filtration, I use dirty established media when setting up a new tank and never get a trace ammonia reading. Many ears ago I lost some cardinal tetras to ammonia in new tank because I used new media. Cut the aeration and get some floating plants.
Harika bilgiler 😊
Are green algae good for aquariums?
Hi Mj. My tank is three week old and in this current week i found yellowish and brown colored thing covered my monte carlo carpet,rock and glass area so how can i remove this ,can you please help me regarding this issue.and i am also found brown color hair on plants and substrate area.plzzz help.
Hey buddy! Brown algae is completely normal after 3 weeks. It will go away by itself in 2 weeks or so. Also otocinclus love to eat brown algae
What was that school of fish you showed at the very end that were grey, black, and white?
Corydoras Hastatus
Ik ben benieuwd wat jij vindt van die fora op internet vol met mensen die de Estimative Index manier de enige goeie manier vinden en die Tom Barr als hun God zien! Toen ik EI deed kreeg ik zoveel alg. Ik kon het snoeien ook niet bijhouden. En toch geloven zoveel mensen er heilig in!
Nu alles lean dosen, en gaat veel beter.
Hello Master. What's the id of the fish that appears in 4:53?
There are ember tetra's and also 2 paskai dwarf rainbows
very helpful video
Hoe doe jij dat bij de tank met een beta erin? De beta wilt geen sterke stroming.
Ja altijd lastig met een Betta. Met een extern filter zou je een spin pipe kunnen gebruiken om de stroming iets aangenamer te maken.
What is this small bubbler at 0:27 ?
Hey pal. Do you check water parameters before adding some "cheap" shrimps? I have a limited budget and buying a water parameter test seems expensice
nah i dont
@@MJAquascaping alright thanks
I've had a poor quality LED light and although it was not extremely powerful, generated a good amount of algae, so I firmly believe that poor quality lighting can be the cause of algea.
As for the CO2, what you want is a good distribution of dissolved CO2 and not necessarily the bubbles.
Thanks for the tips, looking forward to the next vid.
Not sure how helpful I can be but what do you mean exactly ref. 'poor quality'? Cheap lights often are too blue or too green (green equals white light for brightness) or inadequately bright, but algae uses much the same red and blue elements of light as higher plants, marine tanks need more blue which is unnatural in shallow fresh water and in my experience can, yes, to some extent stimulate algae in fresh water. Duration and CO2 levels are in my experience much more important than light spectrum or intensity - but the light has to be bright enough for plants to grow. Ref. CO2 I use a CO2 reactor, no CO2 bubbles floating about, only oxygen bubbles from the pearling plants an hour or so before the lights go off, it takes a good hour for the lights to stimulate the plants and about 5 hours in my tank for the water to be saturated with oxygen to the point that bubbles can be seen on leaves. Light: try to use bulbs of 3000 to 4000K and make sure you have at least 1 watt of LED light for two litres of water. CO2: 15 ppm is a good compromise, higher levels take you into a region where fish losses are close, i.e. 40 ppm is risking it, ADA solve the problem by aerating when the lights go off. I have used an air stone on a timer for night-time when pushing up CO2 levels in the distant past. Good luck.
Great video Mark! I’m currently waiting for plants to be in stock to set up my first pressurized co2 aquarium. I have a finnex planted plus hlc on a 29g aquarium and am unsure what % I should start the lights at. It’s 18 inches tall. I was thinking maybe 70%?
That depends on the PAR of your lamp and the volume of your aquarium (soil and rocks height for example). You can try a LUX app on your cellphone and aim for medium light and eventually increase it to high light. I always set up my lights based on the Tropica lumen chart.
Chapters are a must. Thanks "Uncle MJ" haha
😁
Tnx again for video
Edit: waiting for another video
Really good timing with this video! Am currently losing a war with hair algae and was about to reach out and ask for support! I'll try what you've suggested and that should do the trick.
Lower the light and increase the flow.
@@glasscanvasart5273 I have a very strong flow (almost too strong for my poor ram and shrimps) and keep the light on for 8 hours/day. That being said, the system has only had proper CO2 for about 10 days now. I'll reduce the lighting period to 6 hours per day?
I would keep it at 8 hours. If you only have CO2 for 10 days just try to be a bit more patient. Just make sure your CO2 is optimized!
@@MJAquascaping thanks mate I'll keep it at 8. My ram has HITH now too so there's something not quite right... I'll see how it goes over the next week. Thanks for the reply guys.
@@MJAquascaping hey mate thanks for the advice! I left my CO2 at 1 bubble per second and the light on at 8 hours a day. Not only is the algae gone, but my ram's HITH has also started to heal. The tank is looking great. Cheers again!
Which fish eats Hairalgae??
Super 📽️👍👌😎
actually for number 10 isn't necessary in my nano aquascape/shrimp tank, i have perfectly carpeted monte carlo and healthy Rotala with water change of 30% once in a month, but this can happen by not dosing liquid fertilizer (with help of nutritious aqua soil), not using any rock (especially type of rock that release mineral) by that my water parameter almost stay the same for a month
p.s. sorry for the bad english
also i control the temperature with thermostat so it doesn't swing
Just found your channel & I love your aquascapes!! How do you get your moss to grow in little balls like that in the driftwood tank? I ordered buce & phoenix moss to recreate the lava rock scape you did! 😍😍
Thank you very much! Also check out this video about how I work with moss in my scapes czcams.com/video/-JB4hMuqzwE/video.html
I am sure, the person disliked the video watched it upside down..🤣🤣
😂😂
My c02 ran out and my new bottle won’t get to me for 1 week what should I do I don’t want to get too much algae
Reduce light intensity/duration or add some floating plants.
Feels nice to be the 1,000 liker!
Traduci Italy please
by the way, i dont understand why ammonia or organic waste can cause algae, please enlighten me
Essentially Nitrate, above 10ppm algae tends to exploit the nutrient and outgrow aquatic plants. Good luck.
Too much phosphates is the biggest culprit. Most of it comming from liquid fertilizers, and fish food.
Hallo MJ.
Waar heb jij dat stofzuigerslangetje gehaald om het aquarium is mee schoon te maken? Ben al tijden op zoek naar iets geschikt.
Top kanaal !
Bedoel je de Dennerle nano mulmsauger?
Op 8:03 min is ie in beeld.
👍
Hi mate!
Heya
Is there a video of you missing? A video where you made a tour on a shop. You highlighted a shallow tank of them. I came to rewatch but couldn't find it. Help
I don’t think so 🤔 maybe it was a different channel? What kind of shallow tank was it? Maybe I remember
@@MJAquascaping i was wrong? That's weird because i dont think so. You're the only one i know who loves shallow setup. Sorry if i got it wrong though.
@@MJAquascaping found it. It was one of the tank from zoo and zoes 👍
Help me mj plzzz
Nubber 2 is really just never enough you. Never have enough plants
now here are the typical aquascaper explanations why something happens and why not ...
Why does a brush alga occur less frequently in a Co2 operated tank and why it does not grow as well?
You should look at the nature of the algae and then you will quickly see why they are less common in acidic water and why their structure is destroyed there.
And adding co2 makes the water acidic.
In the case of green algae, it can have a different effect because algae are in the world that produce most of the oxygen from co2.
Too much fertilizer allows the algae to thrive and CO2 helps here. so it is more due to the fertilizer which is OVERDOSED in most of the scapes.
there are beautiful tanks that are almost free of plants and without algae ... so it can't be because of the amount of plants