OLD LEATHER SMITH here, Great Job Gary, some Suggestions, Bee's Wax on your punches and chisels, they go into the leather easier and come out easier, I glued a small piece of upholstery leather hair side down 2 my rivet anvil, prevents scratches and some crushing, your use of the drill press Great, can also B used 4 burnishing, just remember 2 support burnishing tool on the bottom so as 2 not break tool and 2 prevent wobble. Glue on screw threads will work if you don't have lock Tite, it's what I used before lock Tite. No buckle just belt then no scratches on instrument. When using a Buckle on a belt ALWAYS USE CHICAGO SCREWS, when the buckle breaks it can B replaced easier without breaking your belt. Sorry 4 so loooong just trying 2 help. GOD'S BLESSINGS ✝️⚾️🙃
Thank you very much, Jim! I am glad to hear your advice, very informative and fruitful. Its really wonderful to have someone like you who is willing to share your experiences and ideas. I've learned a lot from the comments like this one, can't thank you guys enough, have a wonderful day!!!
Nice work. My only suggestion (as a musician of over 40 years), would be to not use a buckle that could cause damage. Yes, we all hate the slot system, but it usually needs to be adjusted only once. Because straps are rarely switched between dissimilar instruments, I simply measure and fit the holes on the tail, to the player/instrument. We’ll generally use one hole when standing, another for sitting, (shorter) so it doesn’t slip off the shoulder when seated. No further adjustment is really necessary. Thanks for the nice video.
Hello Christopher, thank you very much, I am glad to have such professional advice from an experienced musician like you, really appreciate it! Now I've learned a little more about guitar straps. Thanks again, Gary.
I made most of the straps I've used in the last IDK how many years. I made a 2 inch strap from 10oz or thicker buffalo leather. Love it. It's only got 2 holes and the distance from hole to hole is my preferred length.
Guitar strap looks great!!! Might be a silly question, but why do you make the twist on the thread when you pass the needle through the front of the leather? ✌
Not a silly question at all… I’ll take a crack at it - Passing the first needle through the hole, creates a loop. The second needle/thread can come through, adjacent to that loop, OR, it can come down through that first loop, which ties an overhand knot when the stitch is cinched and tensioned. This forces one thread up, and the other down, giving a stitch that looks best on both the front, and the back. By flipping the thread over the needle, the second thread goes through the loop, creating that overhand knot. It also helps to hold the tension as you go the next stitch. It’s a wonderful way to do the saddle stitch, and Gary’s results are beautiful!
Nigel Armitage’s video, “Saddle Stitch in Detail”, gets all the credit here. He demonstrates the stitch with and without the “cast” (casting the thread over the needle), and he explains when, why, and which side, for different results.
So nice not to have any background music or unnecessary waffle. Just working sounds - delightful 😊
Thank you! Glad you liked it!
OLD LEATHER SMITH here, Great Job Gary, some Suggestions, Bee's Wax on your punches and chisels, they go into the leather easier and come out easier, I glued a small piece of upholstery leather hair side down 2 my rivet anvil, prevents scratches and some crushing, your use of the drill press Great, can also B used 4 burnishing, just remember 2 support burnishing tool on the bottom so as 2 not break tool and 2 prevent wobble. Glue on screw threads will work if you don't have lock Tite, it's what I used before lock Tite. No buckle just belt then no scratches on instrument. When using a Buckle on a belt ALWAYS USE CHICAGO SCREWS, when the buckle breaks it can B replaced easier without breaking your belt. Sorry 4 so loooong just trying 2 help. GOD'S BLESSINGS ✝️⚾️🙃
Thank you very much, Jim! I am glad to hear your advice, very informative and fruitful. Its really wonderful to have someone like you who is willing to share your experiences and ideas. I've learned a lot from the comments like this one, can't thank you guys enough, have a wonderful day!!!
Nice work. My only suggestion (as a musician of over 40 years), would be to not use a buckle that could cause damage. Yes, we all hate the slot system, but it usually needs to be adjusted only once. Because straps are rarely switched between dissimilar instruments, I simply measure and fit the holes on the tail, to the player/instrument. We’ll generally use one hole when standing, another for sitting, (shorter) so it doesn’t slip off the shoulder when seated. No further adjustment is really necessary. Thanks for the nice video.
Hello Christopher, thank you very much, I am glad to have such professional advice from an experienced musician like you, really appreciate it! Now I've learned a little more about guitar straps. Thanks again, Gary.
I made most of the straps I've used in the last IDK how many years. I made a 2 inch strap from 10oz or thicker buffalo leather. Love it. It's only got 2 holes and the distance from hole to hole is my preferred length.
Very neat work, well done.
Thank you very much!
Genial muy bueno👏👏👏
Thank you very much!!!
It's good to use Loctite for the screws that are hidden, other wise it may loosen and belt owner won't be able to tighten it up.
Yes, loctite is definitely a good idea, thank you!
So e measurements would be nice along with how and where you measure from.
Very beautiful What laser machine do you use thank you
Nice work, I like the leather engraved makers mark. Share /sell your pattern, perhaps?
Thank you, I am sorry I don't have pattern for this at this moment.
Гарри, куда ты постоянно деваешься? Не пропадай так часто 😄
Thank you, yes I am trying!!! XD
Guitar strap looks great!!! Might be a silly question, but why do you make the twist on the thread when you pass the needle through the front of the leather? ✌
Not a silly question at all… I’ll take a crack at it - Passing the first needle through the hole, creates a loop. The second needle/thread can come through, adjacent to that loop, OR, it can come down through that first loop, which ties an overhand knot when the stitch is cinched and tensioned. This forces one thread up, and the other down, giving a stitch that looks best on both the front, and the back. By flipping the thread over the needle, the second thread goes through the loop, creating that overhand knot. It also helps to hold the tension as you go the next stitch. It’s a wonderful way to do the saddle stitch, and Gary’s results are beautiful!
No questions are silly, I myself wondered why as well, I think Christopher shed light on it, thank you!
@@ChrisGordan Thank you for the great explanation, I'm going to give it a try on my next project!!! ✌️
Nigel Armitage’s video, “Saddle Stitch in Detail”, gets all the credit here. He demonstrates the stitch with and without the “cast” (casting the thread over the needle), and he explains when, why, and which side, for different results.
@@ChrisGordan just finished watching the video, good information on stitching. ✌
The pocket - Is that for a wireless transmitter?
Why didn’t you stitch all the way around the concho? Only reason I could come up with was to hold picks, is it? 😁 Love the look! 👌🏼
Yes, the two unstitched area are the slots for picks, thank you!!!👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
@@garyipip awesome solution! 😍
How tick the leather you use to make this gorgeous strap sir?
About 2mm😁
Cuantos us dolares
6 milimiters is you chisel diamond
Yes, 6mm
Чтож вы все шьете без подкладки? Один бизнес портфель пошил, во внутрь лучше не заглядывать. Как работа, на отлично а как ремень, не важно.