2012 Ford Focus Intake Valve Cleaning due to Direct Injection
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- čas přidán 6. 09. 2024
- A direct injection engine is a gasoline engine that injects the fuel directly into the combustion chamber. This is different that port injection where the fuel is injected inline with the intake runner pointing at the intake valve.
With port injection the intake valve seats and stems are cleaned by the gasoline flowing over them. This does not happen with a direct injection engine.
Intake valves with direct injection will get gummed up with carbon and oil deposits from the air/oil separator and EGR system. The only way to clean this is by taking off the intake manifold and manually cleaning the valves.
Shown here is a 2012 Ford Focus with the 2.0 GDI engine.
Friend, you have waaaaaaaaay too much love for this engineering marvel from Ford. These vehicles belong in a land fill.
That said, as someone who does this for a living; I would recommend non-chlorinated brake cleaner. Much cheaper, just as effective, and safe on all vehicle applications.
Also, I would highly recommend a media blaster as it is much quicker, and provides better results than elbow grease. Horrible Freight has a decent setup for less than $100.00. If you plan on keeping this vehicle (shudders), additional valve cleanings are in your future.
I know the transmission is the weak point in this car. The clutch has need replaced twice and the TCM once a month ago under warranty. It shifts great right now. I just like taking care of what I have I guess. So this media blaster. Won't that throw debris everywhere? Do you have a video I could watch?
@@fixins9868 I just did this job using similar methods after seeing the condition of my intake valves when I had the manifold off to do a DPS6 to MTX75 transmission conversion. I considered going the walnut blasting route but this takes less equipment and still yields great results. I did get a set of drill mountable engine brushes and a blow gun with a 7 inch nozzle from Harbor Freight and those worked well. Just use the nylon brushes for this job. Also, be sure to cover the port completely with a rag before blowing the dirty solvent out. FYI, when media blasting, they hook up a port cover and a shop vac to catch most of the debris.
Chad Clancy how much time and money was spent for the conversation? Been thinking of doing it myself
Additional valve cleanings not just for this engine, but for ALL the other GDI engines, save for dual injector versions, such as Toyota. Please, save the Focus bashing for the DPs6, which by the way I have put about 30K TROUBLE FREE miles on with just one clutch pak replacement and a TCM reflash. I have 85K on the vehicle now, runs sweet! But, I know the intakes will be on my to do list SOON!
@@fixins9868 I have a 2012 Focus with the Manual 5 Speed. It has 200,000 Miles and only things I have had to do are replace an evap sensor and replace an engine mount that caused vibrations. Manual is the way to go with these Focus's. I have however noticed recently the idle is a little shaky when at a stop light. I bet your process here would fix that. I have already cleaned the throttle body first and that seems to have cleared it up some. I am assuming to get the full affect I will need to follow your process here. What are your thoughts?
If anyones experiencing shudders or high rpm at low speeds I replaced my purge valve and issues resolved for engine code 3003:16
My 12 focus Titanium hatch has 200120 thousand miles on her.. only recently changed upstream O2 sensor as engine light would go on and off, changed coil packs and plugs as well. Belts and rotors were changed 70k ago.. zero issues with her tho. I did see Scotty pushing a private company that cleanses GDI motors with additives…
Those valves looked so good compared to my focus st. I cleaned mine best as a I could and installed a catch can to prevent as much build up. But it's still going to get some no matter what. Nice video. Gonna do my gfs 2014 focus as well.
All that boost makes more blowby so more deposits. I've read catch cans on the st help a lot. I have a 14 st myself and when I did my valves the same as this SE they weren't that dirty. I drive spirited a lot so who knows? Its odd sometimes you'll see DI engines of the same car same engine be on different sides of the spectrum.
Great video, love how you basically walk through the process keep up the good work, also great camera work, I could see all important details
I had a 2013 Focus.. and it never seen a tank of regular gasoline, it was fed E85 from the start and at 80k the intake valves looked extremely clean. An extremely low NOACK score motor used to stop the vaporization and allowing it to fume into the EGR system. 5,000 mile oil changes looked almost new when performed.
Can you explain further?
You don't need to pull the red locks out of the connectors. Just lift them up 1/4 in. and it will come off. :-)
Is this also for the ford fusion? 2.5 engine? I'm having cylinder 123 misfire
I'm not 100% sure if that engine is direct injection. If it is then the valves should be cleaned, but its unclear if that would be causing you misfire.
@@fixins9868 ok 👍
This video really saved my ass. Thank you so much for posting this.
Hey do u know what that like at 7.42 is called ? I damaged it
It is the same process to clean any possible residue on the piston if my car has push-button ignition?, I am a little afraid at that point, I would not want to ruin any valve.
The one thing I can't understand is how do you clock the crank shaft exactly to seal each valve port? How do you know to stop at the end of valve travel. When you turn the crank clockwise, you don't have an angle to see the ports. I would imagine you're not testing it pouring cleaner to see it sealed shut. Thanks for all these details
I took the spark plugs out and then used a long screw driver to see when the piston was coming up. If it was on the exhaust stroke it was easy to see the valve open with the intake off. I also put some brake cleaner down the ports to see if it would hold fluid. If it did then I knew I was good. If it drained into the cylinder then I was not good. Then the brake cleaner would just evaporate.
@@fixins9868 good advice! Thanks
Great Job... Congrats.
I would also recommend a catchcan from the oil pan breather to the small hole under the plastic manifold body.
This connection and another one behind the intercooler to the vacuum port would definatelly keep clean your car's intake ports and valves for a much longer time...
Anyhow, one is greater than zero. Congrats again.
What intercooler? This is not a turbocharged ST. There is no "oil pan" breather. There is a breather tube going from the back of the valve cover to the throttle body. This is a source of oil vapor getting on the intake valves. The PCV valve is hidden between the engine block and the intake manifold. You have to look through the intake runners to see it. It is a terrible place for it.
@@1001Hobbies you think it’s possible to route tubing for a catch can through there?
That hose on the bottom side of the manifold is a nightmare to remove. Very little leverage and the latching mechanism is finicky. It's a real knuckle-buster.
Yep. Did it today. Can confirm was not fun. I feel like I just solved an escape room or some kind of puzzle with each hose or wire connector being completely different and no indication of how to disconnect it without breaking it.
If you remove the starter first, that hose is easy to remove. I did another Focus and tried it this way, no cursing.
How did you remove it? I am gripping the sides and pulling towards the engine. Refuses to come off
@@TheCEOofHead If you remove the starter and pull off the hose with the manifold still bolted in place it is easier because the hose is not cocked to the side and bound up on itself. The hose has two large tabs on either side that you squeeze together, while pulling the hose off. The trick is it has to be pulled straight off and not cocked at an angle while trying to remove it. I've done it both ways and removing the starter was a curse word free experience. Doing it with starter in was very maddening, took two people, and resulted in a broken hose connection. Good luck.
Did you only use rags to get all the stuff out? Did you vacuum it out at all? Just wanna make sure none of the carbon chunks get into the combustion chamber or get caught in the valve seating area
Great video. Have the same car so perfect tutorial. Thank you.
Great video, thumbs up ❤. Here is the one question. What is the tool you used that has pi pi pi sound?
Excellent video
Great video- very good shots and detail. How many miles on the car when you did this service?
I have a 2013 focus, sounds exactly like yours, but dashboard vibrates like crazy!! Any idea??
Bad Motor Mount.
Nice video, im going to give it a shot. thanks thumbs up
coming up on 100K on a focus I bought a couple months ago, so not looking foward to this, but I wouldnt be surprised if I have simlar problem... oi.
I drilled pinholes the size of B12 spray cleaner and shot each cylinder while it was running periodically, got finished pluged the holes with RTV ,let cure, done.
sure hope the engine didnt ingest any of the plastic shavings...
@@Rebecca_The_Dragon No, run a vacuum while drilling, besides the drill flutes bring the plastic up. Even if it did it's plastic, it will go right through. Then you have done it to two vehicles with great success. Using synthetic oil is the best preventative measure to those carbon buildup.
Can you also recommend cleaning with intake valve cleaner (Exmpl. CRC Intake Valve Cleaner) on this type of engine?
I do have the same Engine on Mazda 5 2.0 MZR DISI
I've 2016 Focus SE 2.0L GDI Flex fuel . engine . Can someone tell me if loose timing band will bend rods and valves ? One says yes another says no way . What's the truth ?? verry hard to find a good mechanic
Yes very possible, the engine will run with a knock in it until a rod finally blows its way through. However if your valves and rods are bent already you should seriously consider having your heads resurfaced and timing issue addressed. It would be wise to note that the engine would turn over but not crank if the timing band completely does go out.
@@elijahmoore50 now , been about two weeks after I get it out of the shop . Seems a fair honest reasonable priced mechanic . But when I Got it back , noticed it was stalling when accelerating . Just today engine light came on . Before I took it out of the shop told him I'll bring it back if it gets worse . I was pretty certain these kinda things don't stay the same they get worse . It's not much worse but for the light and still the stalling / lagging . He at the time said it might be the plugs . And scan tool at Auto Zone said yes most likely it's ignition coil / spark plugs . I'll call that mechanic tomorrow . before I took it to him , did cpom [pression test and one plug looked rusty old so I changed it . They said -p;lyug was already gapped at owner's manual specs about .0035 . Any help be appreciated
Can't get the vacuum line behind the intake manifold for the life of me
Yeah it is hard. All I can say is try differ tools like picks, or long plyers to help. Just dont force it or you will break it.
If you remove the starter there is lots of room and you can get two hands in there. That's how I did it today when removing the transmission. For this job I need to remove the starter anyway but it's pretty quick and easy to do and at least straight forward, unlike that devil hose behind the intake.
Bro i got a code p00C7 on my 2016 focus se I replaced damn near everything except for the sensor behind/ next to the intake manifold but im not trying to take it off just to replace the sensor. Any ideas on what it could be ?
Hey hey. Great video and i got all the way up to the end and now i ran in to a problem. Its not starting. I wanted to ask you some questions about where i might have messed up
is it better to install the oil catch to that oil vent tube?
Thanks a lot. Very helpful.
Gracias voy a intentar realizar ese proceso con tu video a mi carro. Al final se dejan las bujías sueltas y se prende el carro con el acelerador a fondo?
las bujías estaban apretadas cuando el motor arrancó.
awesome Job.... thank you
How much miles did yours have on it when you did this mine has 130k
do you need to disconnect battery before doing all this?
do not have to take off wheel or unassemble wheel well can easily slip on socket fly wheel
Is $525 a fair price for replacement of rear crankshaft seal, replace pcv valve and fix cracked oil pan where AC compressor is mounted to ?
525 sounds way too cheap for all that since the transmission has to come out to change that.
Great video. What mileage was this service done in the car?
He said you should do it every 100k miles
Walnut blast them, much cleaner and faster
What's your take on drilling small holes in the runners on intake inserting the tube into holes and using seafoam cleaning intake valves then sealing holes, worked great! Really cleaned them.
I cannot get that fucking last plug at the end 😮💨😮💨
how long did it take u
about 4 hours.
Just cleaned my air Manifold yesterday for Kia forte 2010. Very similar to your engine.
Tried to do you exercise and failed. My assessment is that it is very critical job to do where there is no difinative guarantee that gunk will not go inside the cylinder.
There is no chemical can deal with 100 thousand pluse miles of stubborn oils and dirt. You must introduce mechanical force maybe a brush on a drill with continous vacuum all the way.
Also, if the valves are like this way as you showed. I see no need to clean it deeply. Unless the intakes are almost plugged.
Also, what about the exhaust? Should it need also to be cleaned?
It takes a lot to clean them. b-12 chemtool carb cleaner works better than seafoam for really tough stuff. The exhaust port are no different than when the engines were port injection. The gases are so hot that nothing can gum up the valves of properly running engine, so no need to worry about them.
@@fixins9868
To be honest. I didn't try it before as it didn't came to my mind that it can do something really effective.
I will try to do it again with chemtool and give you my opinion.
Thanks for your efforts 🙏
That didn't need to be done. Not enough build up to cause a difference.
good vid, but not a good idea to manually open the throttle blades on those throttle bodies & while you are that far- absolutely service the PCV system! and probably go ahead & replace the plugs too
@SuperSteelers All good man, lookin back at this from a year ago I mis spoke- I had just replaced one with stripped gears...its as you said be careful with them, but you can carefully open to clean. The plastic gears in the actuator arent that tough. Then ya just have to relearn the throttle, which is easy on fords.
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FixIns lol yeah probably because she is in a vegetative state due to poisoning.
@@fixins9868 👇🤣