Dear Linas, How do you think the quality compares with the Cetus for PLA? Have you had a chance to compare the Cetus and UP300 in ABS? [ I am thinking of using a Cetus and making a separate build enclosure and improved heated bed for the cetus Regards
Very much want to upgrade my Cetus 3D mk2 main board following the problems found in the stock board. I have already had to prematurely replace a cpu .
Thank you so much for sharing your review. I'm looking at getting one, its hard to find any information out there. I think the biggest upgrades (without having my unit arrive yet - so I'm not too sure) that I would want to do would be: insulate the glass windows, maybe add a passive heater in the bottom to regulate the internal temperature. That way if it is winter or summer, it will always print the same and won't have issues with warping related to the ambient temperature.
It's not all good news, in my next video i will go over bad things. Like heated bead temperature could not reach setpoint, and better abs materials like PC-MAX will warp no matter what. This printer needs a lot of TLC before staty good prints on ABS. With PLA it worked for me quite well
@@Kilohercas that's ok. Maybe attached a variable 13-18v PSU to the heatbed with a extra mosfet for heatbed power boost? I think maybe heatlamp in the bottom may help a lot. Others have said put a towel over the machine to solve that issue.. tried that? I have a home built machine and I have a hairdryer in there to keep ambient at 60c but my friend says I really need 70c at least. Commercial machines like stratasys keep the internal ambient temperature at 70-110c. Ideally, you keep ambient just below the Tg (glass transition temperature) and then you can use a print part cooling fan on it at 10-20%. At the point you start to need serious insulation.. otherwise if you're constantly needing to heat then the farthest corner will always be cooler. Happened on my ABS machine. Water-cooling of the motors is something you may have to start doing at that point. The stratasys machines keep the heated area separate from the linear motion/belts etc. People always said the friends motors would die in 70c but it's not happened yet and mine are fine in 60c ambient with a few hundred hours on it. If ambient temperature is so high then the uneven heatbed heating would probably get much much better too. I saw the FLIR image on your element14 post and noticed it's the front most edges cooling the most. I'm very curious if insulation and increased ambient temperature helps with that. Btw so stratasys has a patent on heated enclosures.. guess that's why we don't see them around: imgur.com/gallery/61B5VrI We may end up having to do some serious retro fits to make this work? I kind of paid a lot to try avoid some of that. I would like to have it work well out of the box... I guess we're still not there yet. Btw regarding bed leveling, is that good on this machine?
@@Kilohercas Ive bought one. I'm able to attain 120c by adding a new material profile. Good abs prints since I've done that without warping issues. I do have to give it time to preheat. Ambient temperature is ~40c inside the enclosure. I might do a review later too since it's hard to find information about some details. After you able to reach 120c too?
It looks like it can't print, since you need 400C for that fillament. But in other hand, you can trick it to think that temperature is lower by connector NTC to some resistance to ground, but it will be difficult, and I don't know how extruder will handle that temperature...
Maybe you can custom build a new hotend for on the machine - buy a all metal E3D hotend. Then upgrade the heated bed for higher temperature (one way would be to just add a higher voltage PSU - get an adjustable 13-18v one and calculate a sane power value) and add a heater inside the enclosure. Insulate the windows and the walls to keep the heat in. With a lot of work, maybe you can make it work.
Šaunuolis!!! Puikiai padirbėjai! Laukiam toliau review su custom pcb video :)
Dear Linas, How do you think the quality compares with the Cetus for PLA? Have you had a chance to compare the Cetus and UP300 in ABS? [ I am thinking of using a Cetus and making a separate build enclosure and improved heated bed for the cetus
Regards
thnaks for the review man, nice
Very much want to upgrade my Cetus 3D mk2 main board following the problems found in the stock board. I have already had to prematurely replace a cpu .
Hello Linas K, can you share the stl of some parts you made here?
Kool I have the Cetus MK 3 that is my Prototype Factory
Labas Linas, how is the CNC project going? Waiting for an update!
Thank you so much for sharing your review. I'm looking at getting one, its hard to find any information out there. I think the biggest upgrades (without having my unit arrive yet - so I'm not too sure) that I would want to do would be: insulate the glass windows, maybe add a passive heater in the bottom to regulate the internal temperature. That way if it is winter or summer, it will always print the same and won't have issues with warping related to the ambient temperature.
It's not all good news, in my next video i will go over bad things. Like heated bead temperature could not reach setpoint, and better abs materials like PC-MAX will warp no matter what. This printer needs a lot of TLC before staty good prints on ABS.
With PLA it worked for me quite well
@@Kilohercas that's ok. Maybe attached a variable 13-18v PSU to the heatbed with a extra mosfet for heatbed power boost? I think maybe heatlamp in the bottom may help a lot. Others have said put a towel over the machine to solve that issue.. tried that?
I have a home built machine and I have a hairdryer in there to keep ambient at 60c but my friend says I really need 70c at least. Commercial machines like stratasys keep the internal ambient temperature at 70-110c. Ideally, you keep ambient just below the Tg (glass transition temperature) and then you can use a print part cooling fan on it at 10-20%. At the point you start to need serious insulation.. otherwise if you're constantly needing to heat then the farthest corner will always be cooler. Happened on my ABS machine. Water-cooling of the motors is something you may have to start doing at that point. The stratasys machines keep the heated area separate from the linear motion/belts etc. People always said the friends motors would die in 70c but it's not happened yet and mine are fine in 60c ambient with a few hundred hours on it. If ambient temperature is so high then the uneven heatbed heating would probably get much much better too. I saw the FLIR image on your element14 post and noticed it's the front most edges cooling the most. I'm very curious if insulation and increased ambient temperature helps with that. Btw so stratasys has a patent on heated enclosures.. guess that's why we don't see them around: imgur.com/gallery/61B5VrI
We may end up having to do some serious retro fits to make this work? I kind of paid a lot to try avoid some of that. I would like to have it work well out of the box... I guess we're still not there yet.
Btw regarding bed leveling, is that good on this machine?
@@jotham123
System is 24V. I will have to measure difference between setpoint and add resistor so PID loop will make a correction.
@@Kilohercas Ive bought one. I'm able to attain 120c by adding a new material profile. Good abs prints since I've done that without warping issues. I do have to give it time to preheat. Ambient temperature is ~40c inside the enclosure. I might do a review later too since it's hard to find information about some details. After you able to reach 120c too?
@@jotham123 with stock it was ok, but with polymaker pc-max it was warping. Glad you like it :)
You have a typo in the title. It's nothing to cry about - no pun intended :D
Can the UP300 print PEEK materials? Does/can the extruder exceed temperatures greater than 300°C ?
It looks like it can't print, since you need 400C for that fillament. But in other hand, you can trick it to think that temperature is lower by connector NTC to some resistance to ground, but it will be difficult, and I don't know how extruder will handle that temperature...
Maybe you can custom build a new hotend for on the machine - buy a all metal E3D hotend. Then upgrade the heated bed for higher temperature (one way would be to just add a higher voltage PSU - get an adjustable 13-18v one and calculate a sane power value) and add a heater inside the enclosure. Insulate the windows and the walls to keep the heat in. With a lot of work, maybe you can make it work.
Can this printer print nylon and polycarbonate ?
Yes. I have polymaker PC-Max, but it is very difficult to print without warping on large parts.
You do not buy such a printer to test a PLA ... use PC and Ninja Flex. Also write yourself a script, to make a movie.
Please check your gmail.