Renault Clio 1.2 16v Coil Pack Testing/Replacement
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- čas přidán 18. 03. 2021
- Hey guys today we will go over removal, replacement and testing of the coil pack on a Renault Clio MK2 1.2 16v D4F 722.
I've seen so many coil packs replaced on these that weren't faulty, hopefully this video will help you diagnose yours.
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Link to parts used:
Coil Pack
tidd.ly/3CrVeSR - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Thanks for this.It helped me.Coil pack and spark plugs replaced.All working fine.
You are welcome and well done on your repair.
Merci !
Très bonne vidéo, vraiment claire, même si l'on ne maîtrise pas parfaitement l'anglais, tout y est parfaitement expliqué et surtout montré, proprement : félicitations !
Nice work 👍
Please more vidéos about clio & thanks for every things 🙂
Thanks for watching. Stay tuned.
Dear sir,again a most superb vdeo.clearly explained,to the point,methodical,ordered with crystal clear clarity.butifully videoed too,keep up the most exellent work bud,thankyou.very helpfull indeed,
Thank you, awesome tutorial.
My sons 2007 Clio campus 1.2 16v just developed misfiring issues. I changed the plugs but no luck. I’m picking up a new coil pack this afternoon so we’ll see if it fixes the issue. This video has helped me immensely to prepare for the job. I’ll let you know if it fixes it. I subbed a while ago after you helped with a radio/cd video issue. Great stuff mate!
I bought the Coil pack from Euro carparts for £46. I note that you said that the leads are numbered 1- 4 from right to left, but these leads were numbered already however not the way you said. I decided to just follow your lead instead and installed as directed and it worked perfectly....Cheers
Thank you so much for this video! I was able to fix my son’s car thanks to this! Part cost £55 and the labour was free because it was me! 😂
Glad you found the video useful and saved yourself money.
Hello ! Thank you for this sharing. Very good video ! 👍👍
Very Well done video.
Excellent video, love your detailed content and great camera work. Watched a few of your videos about the little clio they have helped me immensely and saved me a good few quid. My son has a mk2 and so does the wife so your videos are a god send. Thank you very much and keep doing what you are doing 👍 great stuff 😉
Thankyou for the comment. I'm glad the videos are helping you save money. Plenty more to come for the Clio.
Maybe a good idea to mention that if you remove the rubber seals from the ends of the spark plug leads for testing the leads, be careful because mine were old and brittle. I broke one on each of two leads but I put the rubber seals back in because the coil pack was working ok at the time. Next time I came to remove it the rubber seals stayed on the spark plugs. Probably best to put the leads back on without the rubber seals if you have to put them back on after breaking them? I know need to find a way to get the rubber seals off the spark plugs!!
One of the best workshop test and replace I've seen yet, well done. I've got a Clio with a fault where it splutters at low rev's (even at tickover) up to about 2,000rpm so I hope a quick test of the coil pack finds my fault.
Same problem. Did you manage to sort your issue?
@@samfitzpatrick1866 sure did - I replaced the coil pack, easy peasy. It ran like a new car after. Problem is, I totalled it a few weeks ago, wright off, c'est la vie. At least I'm still alive. Good luck 👍
@@Drivelikeustoleit bloody hell, glad you're alright. I've changed throttle body, crank sensor, accelerator pedal, and just today the sparks and ignition pack. Still have the same f-ing problem. Had it run through multiple diagnostics and every test I'm getting told it's different problem. Think I'll be scrapping it now.
@@samfitzpatrick1866 I thought about replacing all those parts as well but started with the cheapest parts first - new plugs made no difference so the next cheapest part was the coil pack which solved it. Hope you sort it - good luck 👍
@@Drivelikeustoleit just thought I'd update you. Turns out it was a loose earth wire which wasn't put back properly during my clutch replacement (I took it to the cheapest place who did it for 250 parts and labour - you get what you pay for).
Anyways took it too a specialist who did a thorough inspection as three garages could not find out the problem. Ended up costing me 280 in labour plus the weeks of stress going from garage to garage and buying a load of parts and trying to sort it myself.
So lesson learned pay a little extra for a good job in the first place!
thanks bro !
Another great video and well explained, I've replaced a fair few of these in the 18 years I've had my Clio, haha. How's the SGS hydraulic press? is that the 20 ton one? any good?
Thanks very much.
Yeah it is the bigger 20 tonne one. It's great, best press with the most features I could find for the money. Should feature in a video soon for a wheel bearing I'm sure.
Very sharp
Good video. Please where is the VSS located on this car?
Thanks
Resistance values for Mk2 Clio 1.2 8V petrol engine are:
Primary resistance: 0.6 ohms
Secondary resistance: 8000 ohms
I looked it up at work on Autodata
Thanks for that. Hopefully help someone who needs the info for the 8v.
Thanks, looked for this one! ❤️
My clio 3's coil, coil cable and spark plugs are changed. I don't know which part was failed. Now, the car driving much more smooth.
Hello, great video! Can you show how you change the gearbox oil and coolant on this car?
Welcome to the channel.
Yes I will be doing both of those jobs on the Clio in the future. Stay tuned.
done support bro.. i used same enjin 1.2 16 valve and have same problem my car model proton savvy..
Have you traced your fault?
Can someone tell me are these values apply for 2.0 16v engine? I have readings on secondary about 6,5kOM. But on primary a have A to B about 1ohm and for C to D 0.1ohm and B to C 0.5ohm, so I'm guessing something is not right on the primary. Thanks
Perfect video, incredibly useful. I'm trying to remove the coil pack from the car, however the T30s hold as hell. I have noticed oily mess on the top of the plugs, is it ok? I'm wondering where the leaks might be from.
It really depends how much oil you have. The most likely place will be the spark plug tube seals. Watch my rocker cover removal and refit videos where I replace them.
@@SocketsAndSideburns Yes, tube seals seem to be the cause. In the meantime, I changed the coil pack for a new one successfully, however, my engine still vibrates clearly on LPG (with P1305 and P1314 errors). Injectors might be end-of-life, so I need to investigate further.
Great vid,. I have a Renault Clio 1.2 16 valve which wouldn't start so I cleaned the crank sensor and now it starts but I have a warning light which is a coiled wire symbol with a zig zag symbol above it .
Any thoughts on what that light means and what I should do.
Subscribed 😎
I'm pretty sure you mean the "electronic fault" warning light. You will need a code reader I'm afraid to read the fault codes stored in it and then go from there. I would recommend getting one that can display live data as this will help fault finding.
Looks like your PCV hose is full of yellow sludge as well. I heard it's common on this engine. I had to clean it twice now over just few months. First it was so bad it nearly blocked the entire hose coming from the crankcase. I think that was the reason it started leaking oil from the rocker cover and around the spark plugs, caused by the high crankcase pressure.
It was indeed. I'll be delving into the PCV system on this at some point in the future.
Hi. Thanks. Is firing order 4 3 2 1 thanks Dan. Same as shown. So if I have p0303 I should check the plug and compression on the second from the left
Yes that is the firing order. Cylinder one is at the flywheel end of the engine.
Hola qe tal teng un clio 1.2 16 valvula 2007 cambie bujias verifiqe inyectores cambie bomba de nafta , la falla es en el cable numero 2 la desconecto dela bujia y no falla como los otros como qe el silindro no falla por completo envolvi un cable de cobre en el cable de la bobina , y la otra punta la lleve a la carcasa del motor y tira chispa puede ser la bobina, ? La chispa es mas naranjada qe azul me podrian ayudar en el tablero no me marca ninguna falla, solo falla en la marcha minima
Got a 182 that developed a misfire and yes hand up I replaced it when that wasn't the fault.
What was the fault?
@@alastairmackay4861 It was actually the leads not the the coil pack
@@simongb7897 cheers
Great video. I've just replaced the HT leads on my d7f 8 valve engine, as it was misfiring, and it seemed to fix the problem but I've also bought a coil pack for it. Do you think it's worth replacing that too?
Thanks for the support.
What caused you to go for the HT leads? If it has eliminated the misfire and it wasn't intermittent anyway then they were probably the cause. Regards to changing the coil, if one part of the ignition system is going it may put extra load on another part, if you have the coil and can't get a refund then change it, you can't do any harm. I'd keep the old coil handy as a spare. It would be worth checking the sparks as well especially if they are coming up for a change anyway.
@@SocketsAndSideburns I've just been going through things to try to figure out the problem, it seemed to be getting worse, it was very juddery when accelerating, flashing engine light, and the engine would periodically shake. First I replaced the fuel filter as I thought it could be clogged, then I replaced spark plugs but neither seems to help. I just looked through forums to see what it could be, next stop was HT leads. I could still get a refund, I just wasn't sure if it was one of those parts that needed to be changed together. Thanks for the help!
No problem. Let us know if it comes back.
I see there are two types of coil pack, didn't know this, one with three screws and the other with four, would this make a difference in difficulty starting with the wrong coil pack especially when its cold. I think i may have the wrong one as its the one i got that i have been given to me by the auto factor quoting the reg number etc, i assume it correct. Its a bugger to start in the cold but when its warm it starts, no problem. The cold start is a real problem, turns over fine and sometimes tries to bit on firing when the key is released after fully turning. Changed Crankcase sensor and coolant temp sensor checked connections etc, still a mystery just wondered if its the coil pack even though i have changed it, may not be correct.
I believe the three bolt coil pack leads are much shorter as it is located in a different position to the four bolt. If you do have the wrong one fitted it should be obvious as it would have been very difficult to get the leads to reach.
I have never had any first hand experience of actually fitting the wrong one but I have heard of it being done and those people didn't report any running issues other just difficulty in making the leads reach.
@@SocketsAndSideburns I have found that the non Renault coil packs have leads that are all the same length including the three screw ones. These leads are all too long but you cant cut and shorten then as they are sealed in. I bought a three screwed version the other day as i have three screw holes on my engine, but it did not work at all, it turned over and locked. You would have thought that the Auto factor, Eurocarparts would have given me the correct one especially giving the reg plate number. It certainly wasn't the correct pack. I did try and look for the engine number as in your video but theres an alternator smack bang in front of it. It may pay me to go to a Renault dealer and get an original pack.
My engines got a vibration. Its definitely the engine itself as it does it standing still, and its not the gearbox as clutch engaged or not, it still occurs. From the feel of the top of the engine, its strongest on 1 and 4. Injectors sound normal but havent tested them. Mpg is fine and normal. Spark plugs suggest lean running but its a lean engine anyway. I've coeaned the map sensor and readings are all normal, and cleaned the throttle body. My only thing left is either my cam shaft has worn out, or theres a spark problem that isnt dramatic enough to trigger a missfire or light on the dash. Could also be the crank sensor.
It does have trouble starting first thing.
Checked the battery and the alternator and they are fine.
Could it be a weak spark?
The engine is wasted spark. So 1 and 4 sparks fire together. So the ignition system does link both cylinders. You have checked the coil pack?
@@SocketsAndSideburns thanks for replying. im doing it on the 30th along with the tappit adjustment. It might just be the nature of the engine.
Hi did all that but still runs on 3 cylinders the car has had an engine change that was the same make and model (plug & play) tried 3 different coil packs any help would be grateful
Since the the ignition system is wasted spark it is far more likely a problem related to one cylinder is something other than the coil pack. I would suggest checking the spark then a compression test.
Hello. on my Clio, on the secondary coil, between 1 and 4 it's 12.50, and between 2 e 3 it's 10.01. do tou think it's good ir bad? Thanks
Are you checking it because you have a problem?
The resistance is out of spec. You could check for corrosion on the contacts and try to get a brush in there if there is any to remove it as this may be the cause.
@@SocketsAndSideburns the engine fails when I accelerate around 1500 rpm. there is no corrosion. I already bought a new one and it was normal. thanks
Is it possible that it tests ok when like this but is breaking down under load? I am checking a clio at the moment for a misfire during acceleration and suspected the coil pack but testing showed up no faults. (No fault code stored either)
If you have tested it as per this video and it all checks out ok it probably isn't going to be the coil. You will probably need access to live data to catch the misfire in the act.
@@SocketsAndSideburns thanks,
@@SocketsAndSideburns I did a number of further test and after a bit more driving got a codes for cylinder 2. Checked compressions and injector resistances and then swapped injector two with injector 3 to see if code changed which it did not.
In the end I suspect the coil was the issue despite the correct resistance reading, so replaced and tested. All working fine after changing. I suspect that the coil resistance reading were fine until a load was placed on the windings. Cheers
So i orderd a coil but it has 4 bolts and my old 1 had 3 bolts. Is this an big problem? Or can i use the 4 bolts fine?
Honestly I can't say. It's not something I would try personally, I would just get the right part.
If I remember right the three bolt version was for the early engines and had shorter leads than the four bolt version so you may have a lot of excess HT lead to contend with. I'm also unsure if the bolt patterns would line up.
Other than those two things I don't think there were any other changes.
@@SocketsAndSideburns thanks for the quick response! I will order the correct part! Thank you very much.
Hi, I have the same car with the same engine. I have a problem with my car, temperature does not rise over 2 blocks (digital meter) after 20km travel, normally it should be 4 blocks (in the middle), the heater works fine but I find it strange that the meter give me low temperature. I have replaced the coolant temperaturesensor and thermostat, but after a week I have the same problem. Do u know where the problem might be?
Hello. This is an interesting one as you've already changed both parts that usually cause this.
When you replaced the thermostat and temp sensor did the problem go away and then return a week later? If that is the case check the new thermostat is actually operating correctly, new parts can still be bad.
Did you bleed the system after changing the thermostat?
Is the radiator fan sticking on? Get it to come on and then go off again. Fan cuts in at coolant temp 100 degrees and out at 95.
If your car has AC then operate it as well, fan should cut in when on and the off when you turn AC off.
@@SocketsAndSideburns Hello, thanks for your response. Yes, the problem went away for a week when I replaced the parts. The fan works if I run the engine for 5 min (at 2000/tpm), then it gives 4 block (normal temperature), but once I drive it deflating back to 2 blocks. I also let the air out of the termostate. Sometimes if I drive on the highway it pops back to 4 blocks and go back to 2 blocks. But again, the heating works fine. BTW the car doesn't have AC.
I took the Clio in this video out for a drive. It's in the UK, temperature outside was 7 degrees Celsius and the temp gauge didn't move above two blocks. It did a lot of town driving and a high speed run down a carriageway. So if you live in a similar climate this is normal.
You know the thermostat is working. It's also taking a roughly normal time to heat up enough to get the fan to cut in.
My Mrs has owned a Clio for 14 years and informs me hers has always been two blocks in the winter and four in the summer.
@@SocketsAndSideburns my clio is a couple years older... 2005. So there is no problem, because the climate where I live, is the same as the country you live in, Belgium that is. :D. You really helped me a lot. Less worries now for now. Thank you 👍🏼.
Hello I have a idling problem with my Renault Clio 1.2 16V 2004 model and from time to time it won't start when I turn the key only the ignition will still go on but won't start. Please help Mr sockets and sideburns please any help will do.
Does it crank and not start or just not crank at all?
Hi apologies for the late reply but however the ignition goes on but doesn't start or crank when that happens then after a while it starts or I have to kick start my car.
What is the appropriate speed for this engine on a long travel road of 600 km?👍
Obviously don't exceed the speed limit. I've had this engine at 70mph in fifth for hundreds of miles. Check all your fluids before you set out.
@@SocketsAndSideburns 💗💗Can I run with it at a speed of 140 km always ??
As long as it has no issues and is well maintained you can run it as hard as you want as long as you keep the engine RPM out the redline and keep an eye on the coolant temperature. However I definitely wouldn't recommend that. Fuel economy alone would be shocking. Probably best to get a larger engine or a diesel for such long high speed journeys.