2011 - 2016 Toyota Sienna Replace Fuel Pump DIY, Fuel Module Disassembly, Fuel Pressure Regulator
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- čas přidán 11. 03. 2021
- This video is a full bolt-by-bolt DIY for dropping the fuel tank and replacing the fuel pump module on the Sienna. The end of the video includes steps to disassemble and reassemble the fuel pump module to access the fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, and fuel pump. Check the Pinned Comment for Timestamps to jump around the video, part numbers, and updates.
This DIY applies to 2WD Siennas without Direct Injection/GDI (the GDI Siennas have different part numbers). AWD Siennas require more work, as the prop shaft may have to be removed to drop the tank (I don't know because I haven't done an AWD).
Check out these other videos which can help with this job:
Checking Fuel Pressure on Toyotas (shows the Sienna at the end):
• DIY Test Fuel Pressure...
Make a Platform for your Jack to support the fuel tank:
• DIY Floor Jack Platfor...
I hope these videos help. Thanks for watching, and good luck with your repair! - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Timestamps, part numbers, links, and other info:
00:10 Diagnostics on this Returnless System
03:30 Start repair
03:46 Rear Lift point for floor jack
04:40 Depressurize the fuel system (remove C/OPN relay & start engine)
06:41 Disconnect negative terminal on battery (10mm)
06:50 Remove the charcoal canister cover (six 10mm bolts)
07:24 Remove orange fuel line clamp
09:19 How to disconnect "Quick Connect" fuel lines
10:18 Disconnect fuel line on Sienna (have a container ready)
11:20 Disconnect the red clamp vapor line from charcoal canister
13:26 Unclip the pump harness (2 places)
14:34 Remove fuel filler cover (three 10mm bolts)
15:51 Disconnect fuel filler hose clamp (10mm or screwdriver, a have container ready)
17:25 Disconnect vapor line hose
19:50 Disconnect overflow fuel line
21:10 Locate the six 14mm fuel tank strap bolts
21:57 Place jack platform under fuel tank
22:45 Remove the six fuel tank strap bolts (14mm)
23:50 Lower fuel tank (lower slowly and check clearances by exhaust pipe)
24:35 Lift vapor lines from clamp
25:17 Lift the vapor hose out of the guides on the top of the tank
26:13 Lift the pump electrical harness from the guides on the top of the tank
26:55 Disconnect fuel pump electrical
28:00 Clearances for my setup (rear 4-3/8", front 6-1/4", jack 6")
29:14 Clean the fuel pump lid before opening
29:41 Remove yellow fuel line clip
30:53 Disconnect fuel line from the pump
31:00 Alignment markings on the fuel tank
31:57 Options for removing the fuel module collar/lock ring
32:31 Autozone rental #27160
32:53 Using the rental tool to remove the collar/lock ring
36:15 Remove fuel pump module from the tank
36:52 Overview of the fuel pump module and notes about repair options and counterfeits
Skip to 53:28 to see the pump disassembly/reassembly.
Installing the fuel pump module:
40:05 Install new gasket (Toyota #77169-48060, $8)
40:23 Install new fuel pump module (Toyota #77020-08050, $382)
40:45 Install collar/lock ring (torque 59 ft-lbs, or at least within the "Service" range)
43:40 Connect the fuel line
43:56 Install the yellow fuel line clip
44:44 Connect fuel pump electrical
44:59 Lifting fuel tank back into position
45:14 Important note about clearances to prevent crushing the fuel or vapor lines
45:43 Push harness electrical back into grooves, push vapor lines into clips
46:04 Install six 14mm bolts for the tank straps (torque 24 ft-lbs)
46:55 Reconnect overflow fuel line (quick connector)
47:20 Reconnect vapor line
47:54 Reconnect fuel filler hose
49:57 Push vapor lines back into clamps, electrical harness back into place
50:08 Reconnect red clip vapor line to charcoal canister
51:17 Reconnect supply fuel line (quick connector)
51:42 Note about sync'd the sliding doors if you opened with with the battery disconnected
52:02 Reconnect negative terminal on battery
52:08 Start engine and check for leaks
52:37 Reinstall the fuel filler cover (three 10mm bolts)
52:56 Reinstall orange fuel line clamp
53:09 Reinstall charcoal canister cover (six 10mm bolts)
Fuel Pump Module Disassembly/Reassembly
53:28 Disconnect electrical for sender and pump
54:05 Unclip overflow hose from bowl (2 clips)
55:46 Unclip the fuel filter housing from bowl (2 clips)
56:06 Remove the e-clip from the hanger
56:47 Remove the hanger from the bowl
57:01 Remove the hanger springs
57:29 Remove the module from bowl
57:48 Overview of the fuel pump module
58:15 Remove the pump strainer (5 clips)
59:45 Remove the fuel pressure regulator
01:00:44 Inspect fuel pressure regulator (Toyota #23280-38020)
01:06:23 Remove fuel pump
01:08:11 Inspecting fuel pump for part numbers (says "Aisan" and "81 2F JB")
01:09:48 Reinstall fuel pump
01:10:35 Reinstall fuel pressure regulator
01:11:52 Reinstall pump strainer
01:12:32 Reinstall module to the bowl
01:14:52 Reinstall e-clip on hanger
01:15:30 Reconnect fuel pump and sender electrical
Skip back to 40:05 to see the fuel pump module installation.
DIY Check Fuel Pressure on a Toyota:
czcams.com/video/howhgRzQJ3I/video.html
DIY Make a Platform for Your Jack:
czcams.com/video/qYfMrAxYS1Q/video.html
I hope this video helps. Thanks for watching, and good luck with your repair!
Hi, great annotation of red circles and squares on important parts that you pointed out. A laser pointer also is useful to point things out. Thanks for the great vid! All your Sienna's vids are applicable to my Lexus RX350. If only ALL the mechanics that I have brought my cars to over the years were even HALF as good and meticulous as you, the world would be a better place! Seriously, I had mechanics that lost nuts and broke things after servicing my cars in the past. Nowadays, I do everything myself, unless it's a big job.
I agree - DIY is best, if possible, because shops these days aren't exactly the most careful anymore (though there are still some good shops). Thanks for watching! : )
I just did this repair this morning and this video was so helpful!! Thank you for the detail, the descriptions, and the added notes about some of the things that can cause trouble. It made the repair go smoothly! I'm very grateful!!
How long does it take to do the repair?
For someone who is not especially mechanical it took me about 3 hours start to finish.
EXCELLANT video!!! I've been watching repair videos since the internet came out. This is by far the best. The Reasons i say this is the video quality is great, the lighting was great, your hands did not block the view, the arrows and written discriptions were very helpfull along with the timestamps,part numbers,and links. I think the only reason for the dislikes is you are doing maintenance they wish they could do. I subscribed and look forward to your future videos.
Wow, thanks for your comment! I appreciate that: I try to make the videos such that anyone can follow and complete the repair. Thanks for watching, and thanks for subscribing! I have a couple other Sienna videos (spark plug replacement, starter replacement) and will add more as repairs come up. Thanks again : )
You are a great female mechanic. Keep up the good work. Take Care
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
You are awesome!!! the only thing I would say about your video here, turn up the volume when you edit your video, nothing wrong with your voice,it just fades when your working. But wow the whole thing is so detailed. You are to be commended. Nice job, Im phil out in NoCal is appreciate your work😎
Thanks for your comment - I have learned how to increase the volume during editing, and will do that on my new videos. Thanks for watching! : )
NO ONE CAN do a better job of making a video than you!!!!
You are a great at your craft. I love your instructional videos! They are magnificent!!!☺️🕊️
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
I had to remove my tank and drain it because I got some bad fuel. This video was extremely helpful. Well done!
Ah man, how frustrating to get bad fuel - but I'm glad you got it sorted out! Thanks for watching : )
Got the patience of a saint and skill set of a master pro.
Thanks, and thanks for watching! : )
Very well done, you have a very calming voice, volume could be a bit louder for this old rocker. This really made the job simple. I had a fuel leak. Turned out a rat had made a nest in one of the molded depressions on the top of the tank, the fuel line crosses over the depression, the rat chewed through the fuel line and flooded his nest with gas and created a job for me. Thank You!
Wow, that's a wild story! We have mischievous rodents here (mice and squirrels) but no rats, though I know they are trouble! Thanks for watching and I'll remember you feedback about the volume level (others have mentioned that -- I'm working on a solution). : )
Thank you so much I wanted to check my matrix 2003 I had no idea how but your explanation is right on thank you again.
very meticulous and detailed kudos
Thanks, and thanks for watching! : )
Totally impressed with your thorough videos! Nicely done, patient, careful and just what I needed to change the fuel assembly on my Toyota Sienna. Thanks for the mod for testing without a S Valve.
Wow, thanks - thanks for watching, and good luck on your Sienna! : )
Can u tell me how to put gas init
You are amazing! Thank you so much for your time!
Thanks for watching! : )
Thanks for the video. The sending unit on my Sienna seems to have gone out. Is this the same process to change the sending unit? BTW, you have a very soothing voice. 😊
Yes, the sending unit is part of the fuel module assembly, so the process is the same. However, it is a good idea to check the sending unit circuit (wiring) first to be sure that the problem is indeed the sending unit. Good luck, thanks for watching! : )
Just finished up this job. I referred to your video throughout the process. Thank you! Very helpful!
Nice - great job on your DIY! Did you have a problem with the fuel pressure regulator, too, or did you have a problem with the fuel pump?
Mam you have made this video so much organised.
Thank you ver much
Thanks, and thanks for watching! : )
Thanks! The fuel line clip guidance was super helpful!
Thanks for watching! : )
Awesome video. Wish this was around 2 years ago when I did the exact same thing on our 12 Sienna at 85k. Fuel line would not hold pressure after sitting for at least 4 hours. Upon starting, it took twice as long cranking. Fuel pump only turns on when cranking only, doesnt prime when in ON position. Friend at Toyota hooked up pressure gauge and left overnight and pressure dropped to 8psi. No issues after replacing OEM fuel assembly. Great job on a detail explanation.
Wow, thanks for sharing! I've done a little more research, and it seems that these systems are failing more often than they should, and I'm suspecting the fuel pressure regulators might be the main issue, because as you mentioned, these returnless systems don't prime. So if that pressure regulator goes, even with a good pump, there will be big issues, and the location of that pressure regulator in the tank doesn't make it easy to access! The fact that your system had a failure at just 85K miles is surprising (and I was surprised we had this failure at 124K mi). We've owned a lot of Toyotas over 30 years, and we've never had a fuel issue like this before. Thanks again for sharing!
Its better to just replace the entire assembly and not have to do it again if the pump or fuel gauge sender goes. The tank was heavy even with the gas light on. I also used your guide on an ML430 last week on the EGR. What a pain removing intake hose from throttle body. That coolant tank!
@@nlessdream1 Yeah, I agree that replacing the entire fuel pump assembly is worthwhile. And yes -- that coolant expansion tank on the ML's is right in the way of removing the intake hose! It is a frustrating test of patience on the V8's, because MB just didn't even give us that 1/2"! It is a pain.
I have a few other jobs lined up for the ML's: the ML350 needs a new power steering supply hose, and the ML500 got a new hood latch and cable (hood got stuck closed), and I'm troubleshooting a parasitic leak on that electrical system (which is from the Teleaid module). I'm making videos for all those repairs, so I'll have some more W163 material up within the next couple weeks.
Thanks for watching! : )
Excellent, great job.
Another GREAT video!! THANKS!
Thanks for watching! : )
Extremely helpful video!
Great video, great detail, and very calming voice. At some point in your video you should string together profanity and wrench throwing just so Engineers know their place, those plastic connectors can be such a pain.
Thank you! There was some editing required for frustration with that red evap line clip, trying to get that darn thing back in place! That's why I showed so much detail on how to get it back in place...yes, I agree that those plastic connectors can be real pains! A simple clip can turn into a 15 minute project, haha. Thanks for watching! : )
GRACIAS POR TU ATENCION👍👍👍😉😉😉
Hey great video!!! Thank you
Thanks, and thanks for watching! : )
Thanks, for detail
Thanks for watching! : )
Great video👍
THANK YOU, IT'S THE BEST VIDEO I SAW
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
Amazing work, glad to see a woman thay gets down and work on her own vehicle and not to mention, great detail and patient voice! Big props. Wondering is a 2011 Venza is the same as this to replace the fuel pump as I havent found any videos on here for the venza
By the way, the Toyota Sienna 3.5L V6 2GR-FE engines are EXACTLY the same engine as the Lexus RX350 2GR-FE engines, e.g., 2007-2009 Lexus RX350.
Great video
Thanks, thanks for watching! : )
Nice job.
Thank you!
Thank you!
Thanks for watching! : )
Great video, I have a 2011 Toyota camry, it will start with much difficulty however when it does it dies down real hard, do you think it could be the pressure regulator? Thanks
Great video! The fuel gauge on my Sienna (same year and color as yours) is stuck on empty so I replaced the sending unit. It was relatively straightforward with your helpful instructions (my fingers are still sore from removing that vapor hose fitting!)
Unfortunately, my fuel gauge is still not working after replacing the sending unit. All of the other gauges work. Any other suggestions?
Thx!
Hi. Traction control light and check engine light on after fuel pump replacement. What could be the problem.
Great video. Would help if you could mention mileage of the Vehicle to get an idea of miles these parts sorta last
That's a good idea - this Sienna had (I think) about 120K miles on it at the time of that repair.
Thanks for watching!
Really great video and presentation. I have a 2006 Toyota Sienna LE with about 181,000 miles on it. About a month or so ago, there were times that it will not start on 1st, 2nd or 3rd try. Engine will not crank at all but I know battery is not dead as horn honks, radio works as well as lights. After a while, when I tried it again, it started as if nothing happened. I had the battery checked still and was told there's a dead cell and so battery was replaced with a new one. For about 2 weeks, no starting problem so I thought they were right. After that, it started happening again. Brought it to Toyota and according to them, they tested battery, alternator and starter, and they tested good. They then performed fuel pressure test and found loss of static pressure. They recommended replacing the fuel pump which will cost about $1,100 parts and labor. What do you think?
I'm sorry that's happening on your Sienna! Your symptoms are very similar to what we had, except on this Sienna, the fuel pressure regulator was failing (when that happens, it is very similar to a fuel pump failure) but the pump was still good. Since the fuel pressure regulator (FPR) is located inside the fuel pump module inside the tank, and you have to drop the tank to get to it anyway, most shops will suggest to just replace everything "while we're in there", since about half of the shop bill is labor.
That's not a bad idea considering that your first module apparently lasted 181K miles, which is pretty darn good! But the modules are expensive to replace.
I'd recommend getting some other prices from other shops, like "indy" or independent Toyota shops. The Toyota dealership is going to charge much more for any work. Now that you have a diagnosis, you can call around. I would think that an indy shop might give a quote closer to $800 or so, but everything is getting more expensive lately.
You don't have to replace the module with a Toyota unit, though in my opinion the Toyota units are typically worth the expense (just my opinion, and I shop online to get them from Toyota dealers who have the best prices). The reason I like them is because the Denso fuel pumps and FPRs tend a last a long, long time. Since this fuel pump is hard to reach (ie, dropping the tank), it makes sense to put in a reliable replacement so that you're not back in there in 6 months. That said, I've also had good luck with Delphi and Airtex fuel pumps in other vehicles, and many Delphi pumps have a lifetime warranty.
I hope this helps. If you'd like to try the DIY, the '06 is likely very similar to this '13, and there might be some other videos which show it specifically. It's not a particularly difficult DIY, but you do need a way to elevate the whole vehicle, which some people aren't equipped to do. If you have some basic tools (metric socket set, pliers, etc), you can rent the fuel collar tool for free, and if you have a helper you can get this job done in one day. I hope that helps -- good luck! : )
TU ME DICES SI PUEDO HACELAS POR FAVOR¡¡??
hello my toyota sienna 2014 spends a lot of gasoline how can I reach that conclusion that is the gasoline pump
If I could find a fuel filter and changed it every 100,000 miles then I wouldn't need to replace the fuel pump or the $482 fuel pump assembly. Can the filter be bought separately? What is that adapter tool for the tank lid called?
I'm sorry I missed your comment - the fuel filter is supposedly a lifetime component on these assemblies (though that is hard to believe, especially if living in an area where fuel quality is lower). I have seen aftermarket fuel filters on ebay, but as far as I know, Toyota doesn't sell the fuel filter alone for the Sienna application. The closest I have seen is this one, but I don't know if it's the correct part for the Sienna: the Sienna is *not* listed as a fit:
www.oempartsource.com/oem-parts/toyota-filter-filter-assembly-233000a020
@@L35inColorado I looked at the reviews on Amazon for the after market fuel pump assemblies. All of the reviews said they died after 30 days. Like Toyota says their transmission fluid is good for the life of the car. Ask them what the life of the car is? They will say when the old dirty transmission fluid kills your transmission then that is the life of you transmission. On another video a guy cut the fuel filter open from the whole assembly and it was filthy inside. I would be happy if I was able to to take the gas tank out every 100,000 miles and be able to just change only the fuel filter. Having to spend $482 to change the whole assembly when all I need to do is change the fuel filter. Thanks for the video.
Your videos are awesome.
Unfortunately, I failed to watch before I cowboyed in there, and failed to remove the charcoal cover paneling at the front of the tank.
And so, the gas tank went dangling from the front and the metal fuel line got hung up on the cover, bending the metal line.
Now I’m concerned I’ve damaged another part. If this needs replacement, you got any advice? Can I cut and fit in a new (short) segment without running the fuel line all the way to the engine?
Oh man, I'm sorry that happened! Looking at 07:30, which line was bent?
audio could be louder, but well done vid.
Thanks! I didn't know how to increase the volume during editing when I made this video, but I have since learned how to do that and now increase the audio on my new videos. Thanks for watching! : )
I'm looking for how to put gas
Some old Bronco owners simply cut a hole in the cargo floor to access the fuel pump/filter. IS this an option to do on Sienna? Sure would make it easy to change or clean the filter more often. DO you recommend an inline filter I see so often as an ethanol filter? Concerned about pressures.
Yeah, it's great when the fuel pump can be accessed through the interior, as is on most Toyotas (excluding the vans and trucks), but personally I would not cut an access opening. The floor is not a single sheet of metal: the Sienna is a unibody (unlike a Bronco), so there are beam features in the sheet metal layers, and there are likely some such features where the fuel pump sets, which may well be why Toyota decided not to make the interior access in the first place.
It is a bit of hassle to drop the tank, but overall the job is really not that bad, and at least the tank is plastic, light-weight, and has a convenient low spot at the filler neck connection for draining, if needed. Also, this job typically doesn't even need to be done on most vehicles. On those few (percentage wise) that require this job (like this Sienna), it is likely a one-and-done job, thankfully (especially since the fuel pump is so expensive!).
As far as changing the in-tank fuel filter: as shown in the video, the filter is part of the assembly, and unfortunately Toyota doesn't sell it separately. Here in the USA, we have clean enough fuel that such a filter can last a "lifetime", which for most Siennas is probably something like 200K miles. Toyota has been claiming their fuel filters to be "lifetime" parts since the late '90s, and that included some fuel filters which were smaller than the Sienna fuel filter and which were in-line filters. So, if you're in a part of the world were fuel is clean, I wouldn't worry about the Sienna fuel filter until you need to change the fuel pump.
As far as adding an in-line filter and the effect of ethanol: I haven't added any in-line filters to any Toyotas like the Sienna that have the returnless system; older Toyotas (which are not returnless) already have them. As far as ethanol: here in Colorado, E10 (90% gasoline, 10% ethanol) is common and has been for a long time. I haven't seen any issues with E10 on modern engines. It is true that ethanol can affect older engines and even many small engines, but I haven't see E10 causing issues with modern Toyota engines.
That said, of course, don't use E85 in any engine which isn't specifically designed for it (ie, the "Flex Fuel" engines).
I hope that helps! : ) Thanks for watching!
HOLA L35 TE SALUDO DESDE CHICAGO Y TE TENGO 2 PREGUNTAS¡¡???
What was the symptoms this car was getting with high fuel pressure?
The main symptom for this van was a rather long start, for example, extended cranking of several seconds, and sometimes it wouldn't start on the first attempt. In that case, it would need to rest for a few seconds, then it would typically start on the second attempt. These symptoms were very similar to a bad starter, but the starter was good.
There were no noticeable differences when driving; the symptoms only manifested when starting. Occasionally, you could smell fuel after start up because the initial combustion was very rich.
I hope that helps! Thanks for watching : )
@@L35inColorado Thanks for the reply, unfortunately that is not the symptom I am getting. 2zz-ge engine reading -16 LTFT at idle, changing gears and decelerating. Swap out factory air box with a pod the LTFT improves -10 at idle, changing gears and decelerating. MAF reads same with factory box or pod. O2 sensor is new and working correctly, I am hoping it’s too much fuel pressure, that is the next test.
Hello brother, I have the same car, Toyota Rav4, 2008 model. I did not find the fuel pump. Can you explain to me which type of fuel pump is? I have a problem with the car.
I'm a sister : ) The '08 Rav4 has a very similar set-up to the Sienna: you need to remove the fuel tank to access the fuel pump assembly/module, and the fuel pump is inside the module (as shown with this Sienna).
The Toyota part number for the '08 Rav4 2.4L is 2322028090, seen here:
parts.toyota.com/p/Toyota__/PUMP---FUEL/63069362/2322028090.html
That system also has an in-tank fuel pressure regulator (FPR, like the Sienna shown), so I'd rule out the FPR first as the cause before replacing the pump, because the FPR is much less expensive than a new pump.
I hope that helps -- good luck : )
I couldn't find anything in the fuel tank
@@KURDO2019 What do you mean?
@@L35inColorado I've been working on cars, bikes, etc. for over fifty years. I would be honored to work along side you. You know your stuff. I suspect that you have had formal training. Great job !!
Wow, I just saw the rest of your video library! Suspicion confirmed!! Love it .
Great tutorial L35. My concern with our 2015 Sienna ( with 115kmiles ) is that about 6 months prior… with a full tank of gas, the mileage range read between 380 to 410 miles depending how much more gas I want to add after it stops automatically. Currently with a full tank of gas, the mileage range reads only about 320 miles…. Why about 80miles are lost here? 🤪. What is your current mileage range when full tank of gas? Could the 80miles MIA due to a bad fuel pump system? my spark plugs are originals and seem still good ( will be good if you have tutorial on replacing those plugs… I’ve seen a couple vdos on that but what’s your procedures?🤓). Air filter is good. Could my issue be a bad fuel filter or others? Please, share your thoughts. Thank you. By the way, is your husband, if that’s the case, doing the cooking? 😜. My wife is the Chef in the kitchen and with 3 boys… only knows how to put gas in the car👌
Thanks for your comment -- I do have a spark plug replacement video for the Sienna, which is here:
czcams.com/video/9l0GyMI4ONY/video.html
I don't think that it is related to what you're asking, but I just want to mention -- it would be a good idea to stop adding fuel after the gasoline nozzle automatically stops. The reason is because the charcoal canisters on these newer Toyotas are more sensitive to overfilling than in the past (especially the Camrys). One way to prevent this is not to overfill the tank -- that is, when the nozzle stops filling, to stop there. Some of these newer cars have EVAP systems that are quite sensitive to overfill.
As for your question about the estimated range: have you seen an actual decrease in fuel economy? The "estimated range" value on the display changes based on the engine load and driving conditions, so the way to see if you're actually experiencing decreased fuel economy is to measure your MPG regardless of the estimated range value. For example, you fill up your tank, then reset the trip mileage meter, then use the van as you normally would till you need to fill it up again. Then, you fill it up and take note of the volume (gallons) of gasoline that you added: you then divide your mileage for that tank by the volume (miles per gallon = miles driven/gallons added).
Better yet, if you have a scanner that can read fuel trim, check out your short term and long term fuel trim values (STFT, LTFT). These values will give you a very good idea if you have a fuel use problem.
Probably the first thing I'd try (assuming that fuel trim is not out-of-whack) would be to run a couple bottles of fuel system cleaner (ie, Techron fuel system cleaner or an equivalent). To do this, you just run the tank low, pour in a whole bottle of fuel system cleaner, fill the tank to 3/4 or full, then drive as normal. I would do two of those back-to-back on two tanks of fuel or so to see if there's any improvement: the purpose of those additives is to clean the fuel injectors.
As for the fuel filter question: as seen in the video, the fuel filter is in the fuel pump module, inside the tank. They are supposed to be "lifetime" fuel filters; most people never replace them, so as skeptical as I am of any lifetime filter, it does seem that Toyota has something figured out with those in-tank fuel filters such that they really do last a long, long time. I have a Matrix with almost 220K miles on it, and it still have the original fuel filter with no issues (same type -- in the tank).
If you're in the US, we are fortunate to have rather reliably clean fuel here, so clogged fuel filters are not very common. And unfortunately, I don't think Toyota sells the fuel filter part of the fuel pump module seperately, so replacing the "fuel filter" would be very expensive, as you'd have to replace the whole pump module. But, again, it doesn't seem likely that a fuel filter is causing your situation.
So in summary: I would disregard the display value for "estimated range" and use only calculated MPG values to see what the actual MPG is. If actual MPG is lower than normal, then I'd check fuel trim with the scanner. If fuel trim is out-of-whack, then I would proceed down that diagnostic path (depending on the values, that path might include anything from a dirty MAF sensor to O2 sensor issues or a few other items, etc). If fuel trim looks good or close enough but I'm still getting sub-par MPG, then I would run a bottle of Techron fuel system cleaner (or equivalent) for two consecutive tanks and see if there's any change.
I hope that helps -- good luck! : )
17:15 was your gas leaking?
Yes, some gas will leak out when you remove that filler neck hose, even if you run the tank down till when the dash light illuminates. I had tank run down pretty low, but as you can see, there was still some gas inside. I can a catch-can under it. I hope that helps - good luck!
Can't believe Toyota is getting off of it's best idea/design of not dropping its whole gas tank by just lift up the back sits or cappet to get to the fuel pump. Now they're follow GM and Chrysler's worst ideas of dropping its whole gas tank just to getting to the fuel pump.
I have a 16 sienna. It would randomly turn a few seconds longer to start. 6 months later and if I park on an incline it will take a long time to start. When it’s on it runs fine. Is this what happened to your van? I have a short video of it acting up czcams.com/users/shortsjENY9q9mrms?feature=share
Yes - your video is similar, but before replacing any parts or doing any deeper checks, try to eliminate these options:
1.) Does your Sienna have the immobilizer/alarm feature? If so, do you notice any difference in the occurrence of this start-stall event when you use a different key?
- Also, do you leave your key in the ignition overnight, ie, engine off and parked but with the key in the ignition?
- Do you notice that if you leave the key in the ignition for a longer/shorter period of time before attempting to start if there is any change in in the likelihood of the start-stall event?
2.) It looks like your video shows that your instrument panel is indeed displaying RPM's on the tachometer, which indicates that the crankshaft position sensor is working and sending a signal. During a start-stall events, do you ever notice that there is no movement on the RPM/tachometer needle after the engine starts? (Note: it is normal for the needle not to move while the starter is turning - but it should move once the engine starts.)
3.) Do you have any engine codes? It is necessary to use a scanner to be sure, because some codes will show as "pending" and so will not trip the Check Engine light. If you don't have a scanner, you can go to Autozone or other parts stores and they will scan it for you, for free. Be sure to ask them to check for "pending" codes.
4.) Have you had any work on it lately, even something like a windshield replacement (there is fuel resistor on the cowl panel that sometimes is damaged by windshield installers)?
5.) Have you cleaned the MAF sensor?
If you can rule out all those items, then I think next you'll want to move onto checking the fuel pressure, since this looks like possibly a fuel delivery issue. This video shows how to check fuel pressure on a Sienna (second part of the video):
czcams.com/video/howhgRzQJ3I/video.html
In the case of the Sienna shown in the video, the fuel pressure regulator (FPR) was allowing too high of fuel pressure. It that case, it is easy to know that the fuel pump itself was good, but the FPR was faulty.
However, in the case that fuel pressure is too low, the cause could be either the FPR or the fuel pump itself. But, again, you'll want to confirm that you have an fuel issue before continuing down that path.
I hope that helps!
@@L35inColorado thanks for the reply. I only have one key for the van so that kind of rules out a few things. I did get a new oem fuel pump relay in Dec but hard to say if that did anything. The engine never stalls it runs fine when I start it up. It’s just cranking for longer to get started. I have a shop test the alternator, battery and starter and they all passed. I don’t have any check engine lights on and I send my scan and found nothing pending. If the fuel line isn’t keeping pressure when the pump is off that might be why it’s hard to start.
Is there a way to get the fuel pump to prime? I saw your other video said it doesn’t when you turn key 2 times.