Whirlpool Washer Not Spinning - The Splutch
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- čas přidán 12. 02. 2020
- See how to check & replace the splutch in a not spinning Whirlpool Washing Machine
If my video helped, Can you donate a few bucks? paypal.me/Angeltheapplianceman - Jak na to + styl
This was absolutely perfect. Thanks.
thank you,you make it simple and easy,thank you.
Thank you for the video! My yellow large pulley was loose, but the nut was tight! It was making a grinding gear noise on the wash cycle! I took the 13 metric nut off, put 2 washers under it, about 1/16th of an inch thick, and put the nut back with locktite. I put 2 washers under the white belt cover, on each side, because the pulley started rubbing on the cover. That cured my problem!
Thanks very good DIY we appreciate complete details.
Thank you for video!
Great video ONCE AGAIN. Thank you.
Looking at your video, correct me if I'm wrong but the most obvious symptom to me as to needing to replace any of these parts is the GEAR failing to be elevated by the spring or the gear's teeth obviously being stripped since it is only made of PLASTIC. And of course the belt's deterioration or being broken.
Am I correct??
Thank you so much
Thank you
Nice training
Ótima dika obrigado
Hi I replaced the part and it's better than before but it still squeaks, but intermittently not all the time like before. What do you think it can be?
Would this work if my newer Maytag top load washer is not agitating? The whole tub wants to turn. Website says its not covered.
Tighten nut after pulley is in place?
Can bad splutch cause wash plate to jump up and down rapidly sometimes while agitating?
I have asimilar washer, Kenmore 110.21252110. It doesn’t really agitate and makes a stalling noise and has to manually be put into spin cycle to remove water. Any idea of what I need to replace. If I can save it from the landfill that would be great. Repairman just said that it would cost more than replacing. I’m pretty sure he didn’t even read the problem codes. 😞
I like your videos snd I am subscribed.
Question, do you ever respond to replies?
Can a bad splutch cause intermittent agitation?
I noticed that my unit is heavily coated in grease the bottom part of the drive motor. Complete black layer on the metal. Do you know what could have caused this. My unit is not agitating but it does spin
I have an actuator clicking and washer wont start. Do I replace actuator or splutch?
What is the other pulley called? I replaced the splutch and it tore up another belt and that pulley appears damaged now.
I replaced my shifter because my washer wasn't spinning. The pulleys turned fine but when i put belt back on seemed like small pulley would move up towards motor and would not turn anymore
unofficial reply ,,I have seen the plastic "motor pulley" strip out its hub and slip on the motor shaft (usually making quite a high pitched gear like grinding noise in the process) ,, if the motor spins and this pulley slips on its shaft and does not transfer torque to the belt it needs to be replaced ,, The washer will try drive the motor to spin , the motor pulley will slip on the motor shaft, and the washer's Rotation sensor in the shiftier will not "See" any rotation of the Drum when it should be happening the computer is programmed halt the cycle as a protective measure when this happens , usually setting a Motor fault or Shiftier fault error in the process..
Good day, My Kenmore(modele 11021182012) washer doesn't spin so i replace the actuator, i saw a video that the machine had the same probleme, a Whirlpool, the same modele of mine, but did not resolved the problem, still doesn't spin , what it could be? what i should do? Merci.
I did this now I hear a squeaking noise as it’s filling?
Can you do a bearing job on those washers with those type of transmission?
There are lots of people doing it in south of the border countries. The problem here is the cost of labor for a technician. One guy showed the bags with the oe Whirlpool part numbers. I googled them and was directed to a parts website in Mexico. My Calif parts supplier could not bring the number up. In another view, I could see the mfr's generic number and it appears to be a #206, which is a generic bearing avail at any parts store. Water leaks past the tub seal, goes right into the bearings and shifter motor, destroying both. Splitting the sheet metal halves by removing the rivets will reveal a simple plastic transmission that has plastic reduction gears with a tiny amount of oil. No need to split that. There is a sleeve bushing that may not be avail.
what is wrong with the spring, in the video i cant tell the different
What was wrong with the bad part? I did not understand
I watched another video diagnosing an issue with a loud clanking sound that seems to be caused by this part. I have a whirlpool washer and the same sound during the end of the spin cycle. Gonna try to replace mine like this guy did.
@@cedricjohnson9327 Thank you! Let me know about the result of your work please
@@cedricjohnson9327 if your washer has an agitator , that loud sound could also be your drive block. .it’s located under the drum . Watch a vid on drive block removal
What problem is
Why you don't said. Why you replaced those parts. Is good your video.
The majority of problems are fault of the red (or black) actuator, but the clutch is a contributor to problems which I will later explain. The actuator does several things, which the control panel commands and must be verified via feedback. By moving the arm, the actuator raises and lowers a set of teeth that lock the basket to the agitator (for spin only). The control panel sends power to the tiny actuator motor (rotatesonly in one direction). As the motor rotates a plastic cam that is attached to it, the arm moves to position the clutch arm (to lock or unlock as needed for spin or agitate) (post 1) see next post..
Post 2) On the flip side to that cam is molded in another cam. There is a very thin arm that follows that 2nd cam. The opposite end of that arm trips a tiny switch in order to let the control panel know if the clutch is locked or unlocked. Now there can be several failures. If the clutch is packed full of dirt or is binding for any reason, the actuator can't move the clutch arm. It may burn motor but certainly the second tiny arm will not properly switch and then the control panel will know there is something wrong and shut down the washer, setting a code. I like to lightly grease the inside of the clutch with Vaseline. (See post 3)
Post 3) Part of the actuator has a sensor (photocell or magnetic(?)) which protrudes as 2 posts which enter the bottom of the transmission. Inside the transmission is a wheel which has "windows" cut in it. The twin posts of the actuator straddle the wheel and the photocell can detect rotation as the windows rotate past. The control panel needs rotation info in order to know drive motor speed, basket speed and to know when to safely switch clutch position and to know when to latch and unlatch the washer lid (safety). (See post 4)
Post 4) When the machine wants to spin, it sends a pulse to the lid lock solonoid and mechanically locks the lid. Another pulse is needed to unlock the lid. Also part of the lid switch is wiring which tells the control panel if the lid successfully locked. If it can't determine position, an error code is set and it won't spin. The locking mechanism is similar to what is called in the electrical industry a "latching relay". Constant power is not needed to hold it locked or unlocked...only a pulse from the control panel at the proper time. No latch = no go. (See post 5)
Post 5) If the shifter fails to fully move or if the clutch is binding, the teeth under the drive pulley may not fully engaged with the clutch teeth. You will hear a terrible sound of stripping gear teeth. Fix is to lube the clutch, examine the pulley teeth and possibly change the actuator anyway. Tub seal failure will drip water down the transmission and corrode the electronics that are in the actuator and cause lack of speed info, motor failure or position switch failure. Replacing the sensor is not enough without replacing the tub seal. Many times when the seal has leaked for a long time, the bottom of the transmission will be very rusty and the transmission bearings will have rusted/failed, causing a loud howling sound when the tub spins full speed. There are many videos on bearing replacement but it is probably quickest to just replace the whole transmission. Since no one seems to want to fix anything, I've seen these transmission prices drop from $400 to $150. A note on main motor operation: The control panel electronically switches power on and off to the motor in order to control rotational speed. I think it is called pulse width modulation (PWM..see Wikipedia). The same electronics in the control panel also switches the direction of rotation of the main motor...that is how it gets agitation with such a simple transmission. The drain pump is a simple on/off as needed, also controlled by the control panel. There is usually tech manual in a plastic zip bag glued to the front inside of the washer cabinet. You can usually reach out by putting washer on its back and reaching for the bag. I would recommend searching the alleys for these discarded machines for use as spare parts.(End of posts)
Is there a way to check a actuator and verify is it good or bad I just bought one and was about to buy a board due to the fact that the actuator was brand new so I bought a spluch very unnecessary. Borrowed my brother actuator and it finally took a reset and calibrated. My brand new actuator was bad. So they need to come up with a way to use a multimeter or something that verify weather it's good are bad to make better evaluation for repairs ??? Oh yeah my code was a f7e5 nitemares it gave me?
Good call out Jason! My code is f7e5 too. I have this loud click like the actuator may actually work... maybe I need to replace the Splutch. But I cannot figure out how to test if that actuator is functioning.
@@Stuff572 that loud sound is the actuator working, taking it from agitate to spin. What is your washer doing or not doing ?
I'm having the same issue replaced
Shift Actuator and thought I was good to go but nope. Still says sensing with door latched and you can hear what i am guessing is the actuator buzzing like it's trying to work. But washer will not shift from spin to agitate. At this point I'm wondering is my shift actuator working correctly or is it the splutch.
@@thekyrobman Are you sure the hum was not a capacitor?
Here's a video showing how to test your actuator. Getting ready to try and fool with mine now. Only problem for me is I don't have a wiring harness from another washer to use... hope this helps.
czcams.com/video/7FBRdwwWr6o/video.htmlsi=z9O4Y6-jpTaYWbXb
Showed how to replace but not how to “check”.