External GEAR PUMP - 3D Printed
Vložit
- čas přidán 27. 07. 2021
- PCBWay Your 3D & CNC One-Stop Solution: www.pcbway.com/
In this video, I build an external gear pump and it works pretty well. I have built in this channel a lot of water pumps but this is a bit different from all of them. If u are interested to build this gear pump on your own, all that u need u find on these links:
_______________________________________________________________
FREE 3D PRINTING FILES: thangs.com/Lets-Print/Body1-2...
_______________________________________________________________
775 DC motor: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DDx...
Brass hose nozzles: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DBC...
O rings: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DFv...
Bearings: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DB3...
Tube: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DFJ...
________________________________________________________________
MY PATREON PAGE: / letsprintyt
Facebook: www. letsprintyoutube
Instagram: / letsprintyoutube
________________________________________________________________ - Věda a technologie
Water is a perfectly good hydraulic fluid. The only reason not to use water are if it will corrode steel components, freeze, or provide insufficient lubrication.
Of course yes, the specific heigh of water makes it the perfect hydraulic fluid. The fundamental problem with water is erosion and rust. But since most are plastic, it is not a problem, in fact, a good option.
Heat from pressure will also make water into a steam bomb. Steam is very powerful. Makes things look like shredded tin cans.
Not really. Water is a horrible hydraulic fluid/lubricant, it has very little to do with corrosion (although, yes it will corrode metals, not just steel). All the water would be doing in a pump would be removing the heat from any friction between moving surfaces (thus why it’s working in his pump, and most industrial vacuum pumps use water in the same way, by utilizing it to remove the heat generated from any friction, not to actually lubricate.) Water on the suction side can evaporate thus introducing gas in a sealed system which does compress and will cause issues (think about bleeding your brakes on your car, you do it do remove any gases in the system, if you used water, you would constantly have gas in the brake system). You’d have to have a ton of pressure and heat while compressing water to turn it into steam. Pressurized steam isn’t produced by pumping water at high pressure but by heating it in a contained environment. the chances of creating any pressured steam from pumping water to the point you’d have an explosion is slimmer then you winning the mega millions jackpot lottery. Steam explosions are also typically caused by a steam trap not functioning correctly and allowing water to build up in a low spot of the line, and then you’ll get water hammer but at what ever pressure the system is at, and it breaks stuff. Think of any water hammer you may have noticed when you shut off your faucet quickly, that’s typically between 25-50psi, imagine that at 600-1200psi plus, at the very least you’ll blow gaskets out of the line it happens to, been there and fixed that. (Bad thing is most production engineers will just wonder why the gaskets failed and solely be looking into the life span or heat cycle life of them, and you have to actually show them there’s a bad steam trap up stream for them to believe you, or if you don’t it just happens again and again)
@@marv8481 im not a geek in this, but why we should deal with steam when the water is under stress
Have you heard of stainless steel
If you want a "cheaper" hydraulic fluid, you can use any cheap Automatic Transmission Fluid, thinner than motor oil but thicker than brake fluid.
"baby oil"...much cheaper and it's plain old mineral oil
Hydraulic oil is the cheapest oil you can buy here
@@ferguson20diesel49 Yeah same here, if anything its usually about the same price until you get into the bulk sizes, unless your looking at the lambo spec ATF fluids
Try reducing the number of teeth on the gears. High performance oil pumps tend to have straight cut gears with only 3 lobes/teeth. This way you could move more volume of liquid at lower rpm which would lead to less bubbles
That would be a roots blower
Less teeth means more impact damage?
@@acaalertor1945 Those blowers are also used in vacuum trucks to create powerful suction
Yes you are right brother 😊andras dio
Roots blowers and those with very few teeth have external synchronising gears.
Helical gears can be used but you have to make allowance for the liquid trapped between the meshing teeth that is forced axially along the meshing gears.
Hi, you can add check valve in inlet to prevent water moving back to bucket so you don't need to prime it everytime. The downside is you can't moving water in reverse
i actually designed a resin 3d printed check valve. it held 120 psi of air without exploding. i used siraya tech blue. i wouldn't recommend some fragile cheap resin.
but I like the idea of adding one to his water bump.
I'd really like to see how it does if the pump is primed! I think it'd do fairly well. There aren't many self starting pumps out there, and most pumps can't be run dry as they use the fluid to cool them. Air in a pump dramatically reduces its power, at least the water was able to push the air through, but if it were in a closed loop, it may come into some issues because loads of microbubbles would form like in the oil.
The leaky pumps were funny at first, in these videos, but now it's driving me nuts. LOL. I love the videos, but I really want to see him fix the leaks.
A chamber can be created for priming without affecting the design of the pump. A simple screw for the opening, the air affects the performance of the piston.
He could have at least put a foot valve on the suction 😩😩
For any hydraulic system, it’s really important to bleed any air out of the lines and cylinders so that those bubbles don’t degrade the performance of the pump; it also reduces backlash and springiness in the system
Also like other comments mentioned, most pumps aren’t self starting, so starting them fully primed should help a lot
Really like these videos about pumps, hoping there will be a part 2 of the multi stage waterpump
me too.
I'm going to print one for sure, thanks for sharing your files! I must mention that plastic gear pumps usually are not self-priming, (and should not be run dry) while diaphragm pumps are self-priming, meaning they can get rid of the air in the system and then transfer whatever liquid through the piping, designing a diaphragm pump for 3D printing is a challenging task.
Amazing! You just made every 3d printer owner around the globe a pump factory!
An O ring around the edge of the plexy glass and the printed part will also help with leaks as well. Great video 📹.
Those aren't self-priming pumps. Most systems require bleeding air out first for full performance, much like a car.
Correct. A self priming pump uses a diaphragm to create suction on one side and pressure on the other. Requiring only the flow of air to get the fluid moving. Sometimes called chugger pumps but often just diaphragm pumps. However: many of the lines in your car use vacuum generated by the engine to pull on feed lines until a pump can engage the fluid.
From I have heard from a guy whose job it is to study this kind of stuff, told me that even the supper expensive pumps can only suck like 2 ft. or 60 cm.
Exactly - water pumps mostly need to be filled with water first.
Excellent. Thanks for all of your hard work!
Nice project! :)
Maybe orings on top and bottom caps help. Also with hydrochloric action you want to increase the pressure so bigger discharge port might help.
Thanks again for the great video 🌹
That’s a seriously interesting build that certainly got my attention
If you make a oil reservoir that sits above the pump (that has a bottom hose connector, like a power steering pump)and have to system filled up to to the reservoir then it should prevent the air mixing. As the system should be gravity bleed of the air.
Some silicone should help with the leaks, except for brake fluid. For brake fluid you would want an o ring
this is awesome! consider researching self priming pumps and how to make a hydrofoil also an aerofoil.
You can also use vegetable oil as hydraulic fluid. It’s going to have the right viscosity in a lot of situations and is usually pretty cheap.
“The pump that built this channel…” Hahah. Great job-I love seeing what interesting and creative things you come up with!
I normally use a screw tap to thread the holes for the inserts beforehand. Works pretty well for me.
Your getting much better with presentation! Also you are getting pretty good with adding a bit of humour too! 👍✌️
I'm all pumped up now!
This thing is awesome! great work!
Very good video, an observation that I can give you is that hydraulic gear pumps are generally slower, with fewer teeth per gear, greater space between teeth and the cavity that contains them is normally submerged within the hydraulic fluid to handle large volumes and are not reversible, the change of direction in the fluid is carried out by a sliding valve.
I hope it works and good luck.
It's lovely!! The problem of leaks can be fixed with grease and polytetrafluoroethylene or glue. The latter is machinable.
Awesome idea. I get inspiration from your projects to work on my own ideas :).
Neat, I’m strangely interested with watching fluid mechanics
Leaking pumps are like trademark for this channel :D
Waiting for next video
You know what really grinds my gears?
Enormously talented content creators, who don't know about proper gear spacing
Edit: also, ATF, (transmission fluid) and check valves might help. I wonder how well a tesla valve would work?
This is so fascinating Dude 😃👍
Even it works with gears :D
This channel needs more love
Great video! Have you done tests on the pump to see what it's capable of? i.e. flow rate: Liters/Gallons per minute, Fluid Pressure generated.. Thank you - great work!
You should try a worm gear desing for the next. It should run with more pressure
You should use thrust bearing where the plastic gear and casing will melt. It will avoid the friction
This is a good video. I think if you would experiment with straight gears instead of curved gears you might have a better suction and discharge. Prime example look at Bowie Pumps. They have straight gears for their impellers.
Just a thought.
Very good project
Design your prints w/ the threads cut into the plastic. After printing, you can easily use the correct tap to clean-up the threads.
There should also be a gasket between the housing and faceplate.
This is pretty cool man!!
I like these water bump videos.
an intelligent hydraulic system
Shut up 5 min crafts you are just a bunch of useless "hacks"
@@r.vishal9750 I gg4 8
I need one number motor pumb pls give me purchase link thank you
Great little pump bud, but since it's a positive displacement pump, it needs to be primed, completely. If you leave air in there the cavitation can begin to wear out the gear material. And ad someone else mentioned, most pumps rely on the medium being pumped for lube. Again awesome little pump bud. I'll giving one a shot when I get home for sure.
Love the videos, would be cool to see if it’s able to produce any psi? Keep up the great work from Boston!
Maybe a herringbone gear setup to keep gears from binding?
Try putting gasket maker around the outside of thr top that or an oring to stop the leak and may allow for better pull and push of the fluid because there won't be leaks where you are loosing suction power
using straight cut gears and shorter gears will improve performance. The gears are pushing on the sides of the casings because angled gear teeth want to push each other away like a screw thread.
The liquid used in a hydraulic system is a hydraulic fluid. Water is a hydraulic fluid if used for that purpose.
Oil may just be more preferable since it also lubricates and don't corrode the equipment.
For sealing, graphite strings can be quite good to reduce frictions , as an alternative to orings.
This pump works like my Supercharger. Nice work! Would be sweet to do one like a spiral roots supercharger. 👀
I liked this video. Wasn't perfect, but I liked it even more. It was honest.
Nice work...transperant glass makes it interesting to see...plastic deforming is seen live...tats awsome
Can't you reduce the voltage? To make the pump go way slower? This looks like an extreme example of cavitation. Where you even keep the bubbles in the liquid. Cavitation is caused when the pressure in the pump gets so low in some places in the pump that the liquid turns in a gas. I understood that the bubbels would collapse and cause damage to the pump. But in your case it seems the bubbels remain in the liquid. You can then make a video about the effects the pump speed has on the pump. It is the best with a regulated power supply where you can just pick the voltage between for example 0-30 V DC.
Just to be sure print a new pump and start testing with low speeds and with liquid inside. As damage has effect on the pump behaviour later. Then increase the speeds and see what happens. I think this pump would work way beter at lower speeds.
When your pump water it should remain water without bubbles when looking trough the transparant plastic. Tips read a bit about cavitation and NSPH. It is fun to see you experiment with all kind of configurations.
P.s. when you don't have a regulated power supply putting two motors is series also has a big effect.
Hey rhanks for that advice!
Never thought about using two motors as a way to regulate power output. It's really cool :)
I think some JB weld stuff will work for that I've only used it once and it did great so I think it may work. Use the gasket one for the seals.
Another great video. Now to make it submersible
Its a kind of vedio that l have been desperately searching since long..... Quite informative.... Doubt clearing... Thank you so much....
Love from Kerala, India...
The forbidden caffe latte tho! 6:38
I came here to mention that I was craving a Venti Vanilla Latte
what exact dimension you used on gear holes for fitting bearings? as 3d printed parts usually have some either shrink or expend, how you determine the dimension on the design stage? do you do samples to check the difference of the actural part to designed value? thanks
The orings ideally should have a groove to sit in (against the barbed fitting) that should give you the seal you're looking for.
It looks to me like you've just crushed the oring and it has squished out, I assume that's why those fittings are leaking, great video and I appreciate the effort to speak English :)
Its a good thing you use the same motor again and again, like that we can compare more easily
I love it !!! Réally i love it !! BRAVO ! Excellent
Thanks mate
Your work is amazing but what kind of material you printed the gear and what kind material the body of the hydraulic pump ?
you should put a little screw in the side of the pump, so when you wanna bleed all the air out of the pump you can just fill it up with water from that screw hole or just dump in water from the inlet until it comes out that hole, it would also probably help a lot when you decide to use it for its actual purpose with hydraulic fluid.
Rather than trying to seal the pump from leaks and having to manually prime the pump, would it be an idea to build a submerged pump? No air in and around the pump means no air/oil mixing, and you can just focus on building pressure.
I'm not sure if it's what's causing your problem but you should be using straight cut gears for a gear pump. It may fix some of your problems.
I love your laugh pauses and your laughing by your own lines. 😂
BTW: gear pump must never run dry. Don't confuse them with lobe compressors. 😉
2 rules for pumps.
1. Always position the pump at the bottom of the reservoir.
2. Never run the pump dry, it will burn out or wear out the bearings, so always prime the pump first.
You could have the pump above the reservoir if you use check valve on the outlet of the pump and prime the system(get the fluid into the pump).
Great design-just needs some gaskets on the flat parts (motor mount and acrylic cover) and needs to be primed.
Remember that helical gears have an axial force (total force that transfers power is normal to contact surface) and should be especially supported by an axial bearing. This might be why you have a lot of contact on the acrylic, since (as i see teeths oriented) that gear is pushed against the acrylic while running :)
So, Jacob, what you are saying is that the gear in a way is trying excape from the other gear?
@@austinspor2558 that's is absolutely what is happening. Same happens with straight gears (though only radially), and in gearbox design you calculate allowable radial shaft bending, to make sure the teeth will mesh correctly (and of course to ensure the strenght of the shaft).
In this case it's only to inform of why the gear might push on the acrylic. The fix is to not have normal helical gears. Have straight or the double helical or whatever it's called 😅
@@jacob3110 yeah!!! Youre comenents is right, i work pumps gears and y not see helicoidal gear in this pumps.always have a rect gears .and no have a presión in the housing gears , becuase the presion is generate after the fluid trought for the gears...
You can fill up the pump with fluid. No pump can run dry efficiently. So if you start by filling it it will get rid of air bubbles. also use a one way vluve to the input of your pump so fluid can't get out when the pump is stopped.
Would a gear pump work the other way, converting the flow of water to rotation?
Mech engineer here who worked with gear pumps. You want straight cut gears, not helical. Better sealing and also it removes the thrust loads. You need to feed the inlet better. They must be flooded in order to work properly. Usually you have a shaft that comes out and not the motor shaft going into the pump. The idlers generally just rides on a pin with bushings, not bearings. It was a good first attempt but there are ways to improve on the design.
I always wanted a 3D printed bump! xD
So far so good attempts, my respects
You can use some engine joint former for the leaks, check the kind that can handle oils and fuel.
Also, the gear tooth design is provoking the emulsion of the oil with the air that gets into the pump housing, you can either lower the rpms or maybe make a more globular design (usually engine's oil pumps have three lobes)
Hope my comment be useful, subscribed and waiting for the updates of the build
I couldnt hold it back when he mis spoke at the end 😂😂
Is the STL available? I want to use it
that's pretty cool
Love it!! 😆
Why not try some RTV silicone and spread that along the contact surface between the acrylic lid and 3d print along where the m4 bolts are?
that motor oil passing through the pump looked like chocolate milk
Cool video. Though it wasn't the intention, you managed to demonstrate the performance loss caused by air trapped in hydraulic systems.
I wonder how much psi the pump makes with water/oil. I made and printed a balanced vane pump that manages over 15psi with water!
Its absolutely good
Whow pcbway is the shit!! This project is too !!📹🎥👍👍
That first pump would be a great mayonnaise making machine.
An O-ring or sealant between the transparent side and housing would help with leaking. The only other place air might get in is around the drive shaft. One way around that problem is to put magnets in the drive gear, and drive it without a shaft -- using coils, a hall effect sensor, and switching circuitry to make the gear a hub-style BLDC motor. for efficiency, need to get coils and magnets as close as possible, while maintaining a wall thickness between them strong enough to cope with the pressure & wear. The wall between gear and coils cannot be conductive/metal as these will interfere with the magnetic field. For the cores, of the coils use iron, perhaps a steel bolt or nail.
For easy placement of magnets, use the end of the gear near the back wall, so the coils go where the motor was. An advantage of this design is that a finned aluminum cap can be placed over the coils for cooling with better heat transfer achieved by filling the coil space with mineral oil.
For genius points, make the gear with an axial hole through it. And some pockets around this hole to fit magnets. While the housing incorporates a hollow shaft in which the 3 coils go have their axis transverse to the axis of the hollow shaft, and set 120 degrees apart with respect to each other. The space in the hollow shaft can be filled with mineral oil a flat cap over the open end will seal it, but it may be necessary to use a larger cap with fins to disperse heat effectively.
Low pressure around the gear would keep fluid away from the coils if there were a leak, while the pump runs.
It is possible to see what looks like air in the chamber if the intake is not wide enough to keep up would the pump's throughput, and what that actually is is a vacuum. This effect is also possible if the gears are moving fast enough to create very low pressure - this leads to cavitation which will damage the pump as the water implodes around vacuum bubbles creating shockwaves - this also happens to ships' propellors.
A well-designed gear pump is good for high pressure, precision, and low volume applications, a centrifugal pump is good for moderate-to-high pressure, high volume applications.
Good day sir, I would like to order this kind of pump at end.or please guide on how to order from pcb way this plastic gear pump.
Enjoyed it!!
Para que mueva bien el pistón, tienes que purgar el aire primero, que no queden burbujas, así como sellar con silicon todas las uniones de la bomba
These are infact self priming pumps but usually for them to be self priming they have seals between the lobes and the case. If the tolerances is low and causes fluid to bypass the lobes then yes it will struggle to self prime.
Retraction of a single acting actuator like that is only going to work because your pump is having to pull vacuum to retract, you can see this when the hose collapses before you shortened it. Not ideal but perhaps you can orient the actuator upright with the connection on the bottom and the load force on top.
Very good water pump
Are you sure, that the orings have some effect of the tightness of your pump?? If you want to use orings, you have to model a profile for them or just use teflontape instead,
#
I think it might work better if the pump was sealed better and air was completely removed from the system. I’ve seen this on bigger hydrostatic systems. Also the cylinder should be actuated by valves and the pump should only run in one direction. It’s all in good fun though! I love it!
You need to make a progressive cavity pump for decent pressure
Just what i need
When running, does the water overflow into the motor? and to cause fire motor?
Awesome water pump! But what plastic do you use ?
You could mix diesel and motor oil, you'd get the perfect thickness to lubrication ratio
You have to admit, this would make a GREAT carburetor for a motorcycle...maybe I just gave you a new idea ;)
Normally gear type can be used for semi solid subtances
Amazing
Air infused oil may be a fascinating medium, for shock absorption say.
I didn't expect this from gears
Lmao. This is fun to watch. I know all this in theory but still very fun to see. Thanks. Great video.
motor oil has a detergent, soap, in it to help keep the inside of a engine clean. the detergent is what is causing the oil to retain the air. circulating oil, another type of hydraulic oil, is a non detergent allowing it to release the air.