DARKHORSE CRANKWORKS MAN O-WAR MOTORSPROCKET INSTALL!!!
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- čas přidán 25. 05. 2022
- Today in The Lone Wolfer Garage, I replace my Harley OEM Compensator with a Dark Horse Crankworks Man O-War Motorspocket! HELL YEAH!
Darkhorse Crankworks
darkhorsecrankworks.com/
Intro Tunes by Kai Blackwood
Wolf Ex Machina
www.wolfexmachina.com - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Had it on my 2014 Harley Ultra Limited. I noticed a big difference in the way the bike had less vibration and acceleration. Loved it.. I am putting it on my 2016 roadglide ultra soon. Fully recommend.
Very interested in hearing how it feels on a Road Glide! Keep me posted on that as I one day want to have one of those in the stable as well.
@@LoneWolferGarageI have a 17 FLTRU. Had this put in a year ago. Best thing I ever did. Highly recommended
Put a Man O War compensator in my 117ci M8 a few years ago. Throttle response is better. No lag. It's a bit noisy but better than a failed compensator!
Nice! Crazy to hear that a compensator failed on an M8 already.
the work they do on crankshafts is second to none,mine was balanced,welded and a pro plug installed,.
I am huge fan of their motor sprocket so far! If I eer need anything more they will be the first CO I look at for parts like that.
Yeah their crankshaft and flywheels are truly great
Thank you, you just answered every question I have been asking for months.
Thank you for watching! If you have any other questions let me know or give Darkhorse a call, they have answered a lot of my questions before, during and even recently with almost 15k on their Motorsprocket in my bike.
Brother, I cant thank you enough.good job on the vid here...my issues were a little different than yours.I had a little buzzing like vibration at 50 to60 .you could feel at the bars and floor boards. I changed tires balanced of course..nope changed front wheel bearings..nope, changed rear wheel bearings and the 2 pulley bearings...nope. then saw your video on this man-o-war comp.and thanks to your video it just made it that much easier to do. now i did do an up to an HB 125-07 chain Tensioner from southern Oregon so hot bikes. what a difference! like dammmmmn I had a problem with the Harley tensioner getting too tight so this combo with the help of your video made it perfect for me. maybe others had the same problem hope it helps. Thanks again!!
You are very welcome and that is an intersting idea on an issue with the chain tensioner. I have been considering putting in a Hayden tensioner to help with how tight some people say their gets to be ahead of the problem. But I haven't really run into that yet.
I put a man-o-war compensator in a 2012 Road Glde for a guy last year when I did the cams, no complaints so far and it runs good, starts good, owner is happy.
Great to hear there is longevity. I am considering a cam upgrade this fall, but not sure I really need that in my life as I just enjoy cruising and don't really need to go any faster.
@@LoneWolferGarage I used the S&S 551 cam kit with the plate and oil pump and put in a Vance and Hines Fuel Pack 3 to program the computer. The cams are not real radical, but they are the EZ start cams so they sure are easier on the starter. It's not a race bike, just a little better acceleration and passing power. Just checked the plugs and they are a nice brown color. I'm not a real believer in too much cam, just costs more in valve train repairs down the road.. I did get the man-o-war puck replacement kit with the tool, as I have no idea how long they last, but so far no issues, when there is, I'm ready.
@@lawnboyfromhell that is the cam at the top of my list!
@@LoneWolferGarage I put in adjustable pushrods as well and new inner cam bearings, also new lifters, but if I remember right the lifters came with the kit. Regardless I always put new lifters inon a job like that. I also service the top end breathers, as those little plastic pot scratchers get brittle from the heat and shrink, I also make the drain holes slightly bigger in that compartment, and vent the breathers to atmosphere rather than feeding that crap back into the intake.
I have an external breather setup using kuryakyn extended breather bolts, some gas line and a filter to collect the oil mist. I swear I can feel how much better the engine runs without that hot oily air being sucked back into the intake. And I will put the rest on the list as those all seem like logical steps I should look at .
Do they come in different sizes?
I've heard solid sprockets that use factory primary chain drive will eat your transmission. Darkhorse sounds like a viable option.
I heard those rumors as well but haven’t been able to find much evidence of that. I actually found a lot of people in different forums who have done the solid sprocket and are having a great time with their bikes. But I did choose to go for the darkhorse mostly because of the amazing reviews but also the idea of trashing my transmission influenced that choice a bit.
Great video! I’m going to install one of my Dyna soon!
Worth every Penny just for the instant fun factor!
Merci pour c ette precion bonne semaine
bonjour Lone Wolfer un petit bonjour de la France french riviera j ai un dyna street bob fxdb de 2011 je voulais savoir si le montage du darck horse sur ma moto et le même que sur ta video merci un de ces quatre sur french riviera
I wish I knew French to give a better response, but google translate will have to do. The process should be almost identical, but you may need an oil diverter as the inside of your outer primary might have slightly different scalloped design. But this motorsporcket is for twin cams from 2007 -2016 which you model falls in the year range for.
J'aurais aimé connaître le français pour donner une meilleure réponse, mais Google Translate devra faire l'affaire. Le processus devrait être presque identique, mais vous aurez peut-être besoin d'un inverseur d'huile car l'intérieur de votre primaire externe peut avoir une conception festonnée légèrement différente. Mais ce motorsprocket est destiné aux doubles cames de 2007 à 2016 pour lesquelles votre modèle se situe dans la plage annuelle.
Brother, you made me laugh a lot with this video. Had to sub!
Thank you for watching! Laughing is great medicine.
hey did you change the spring pack from behind the compensator.
the spring pack gets removed as it is part of the OEM comp.
Harley Manual - If you have removed your primary cover - Primary Fluid replacement: 45 oz. required. One quart ain't enough but it's your motorcycle.
That is incorrect. The manual states 40 oz dry, 32 oz wet. The manual also states "Do not overfill the primary chaincase with lubricant. Overfilling can cause rough clutch engagement, incomplete disengagement, clutch drag and/or difficulty in finding neutral at engine idle. (00199b)" I have found that one quart of Formula+ after having the primary cover off brings my primary fluid to the exact level on the clutch basket that is necessary for operation.
Damn good compensater for sure…need to match it up with the Hayden chain tensioner….all noise disappeared….good job..fun video
I may try the Hayden down the road. This is the second recommendation for that. Dark Horse recommended the OEM tensioner and I wanted to give it enough time to prove its worth but also run the course of its life pad wise. From my estimations I have about 10k miles left on that. Thanks for watching!
What is the size of the socket that removes the clutch side?
1-3/16 I believe been few years since I did mine but I believe that’s it
11:51 The Thunder! Such power💪
czcams.com/video/fKopy74weus/video.html
Hey man love the video and I think you're accent was perfect. have a good one
Thanks! Hope the info was helpful or at least entertaining as well.
110% FACTS...I have one...OmG...works like 👍🏾 👌🏾 a champ 🏆 all of my friends have upgraded!!!
I'm a fan! Working great for my application and riding style.
merci beaucoup pour réponse très rapide c est quoi un inverseur d huile désole je ne parle pas Anglais merci
An oil diverter or deflector is a piece of plastic or metal that helps guide oil to a specific place inside of a pimary or sump area. I'll leave a link below to the one that dark horse sells for their products.
Un inverseur ou déflecteur d'huile est un morceau de plastique ou de métal qui aide à guider l'huile vers un endroit spécifique à l'intérieur d'une zone primaire ou de puisard. Je laisserai ci-dessous un lien vers celui que Dark Horse vend pour ses produits.
OIL DEFLECTOR Non Touring Models
darkhorsemoco.com/products/oil-deflector-non-touring-models-62700064?pr_prod_strat=e5_desc&pr_rec_id=fb19535c5&pr_rec_pid=7815778402459&pr_ref_pid=7815778369691&pr_seq=uniform
So what’s your review on it since install? Like don’t like it ? Change anything ?
Was planning a 5000 mile review but now I’m at like 7000 miles on it! Short review is it’s great. Longer review coming soonish.
@@LoneWolferGarage
Ordering mine along with the Hayden primary tensioner and rekluse auto clutch. Can’t wait
Entertaining video! About to crack mine open as Im tired of the hard starts. 09 UC so Id be dealing with changing the magnet rotor too & probably pulling the primary case. Dremeling the case for clearance sounds very unnerving!?! But some do that. 41k miles, I don't think its shot but probably getting there. Thanks!!
I’m going to Try to do mine this week I know that some say the scissor affect but one would think with the added weight and movement with the screaming eagle one would make it worse but don’t know that much about it just enough to be dangerous lol
I hope you got it installed and ripping! Mine has been in there over a year and my crank is going strong. Luckily my desk is wood and I'll give it an extra knock for luck.
@@LoneWolferGarage so far so good and they do make an pretty extremely difference especially instant throttle response
Solid compistator do not hurt crank shaft.they are hard on transmission. The bang is transfer to the clutch, they work fine, I know many people who have them and the only thing they complain about, it the bumping vibration and most dont car about ths... do what you can afford
That is great advice, do what you can afford. All the soultions for a new comp work, but yeah the Man O War is a bit harder on the wallet. And so far I have no problem with any banging. For me it is more of a light thump, thump, thump that speeds up until disappearing very quickly usually only from a full stop until I'm over 2000 RPM's.
That's not entirely true but there's also no such thing as a solid compensator. It's either a solid mount sprocket or some sort of compensator. There have been instances where the crankshaft has been severed. Likely? nawww. Possible? absolutely...... On bikes with a solid sprocket, over time it will usually cause signs of wear on the clutch shaft splines. You can typically pull the clutch basket off easily like shown in this video. With a solid sprocket, it tends to twist the splines a bit and you need a puller to get the basket off. That wear you see on the compensator has to go somewhere. On a belt system, the engine "slap" gets absorbed in the rubber belt instead of the transmission. That said, I am very interested in the Darkhorse Man-O-War. I'd be curious to hear from someone who has had one for a while, with 20K+ miles on it.
I feel the same way about snap rings!
They are such annoying creatures!
Got the Man-O-War and it sounds worse than stock at an idle. I've checked a couple times to make sure everything is tight and nothing was left inside. On the plus side, it pulls instantaneously and the bike feels way more responsive.
I was warned that the Man O -War could sound much worse at idle (same as installing a solid sprocket) but it sounds better than the failing one I had. I also enjoy how the bike pulls right away. What bike did you put it in?
@@LoneWolferGarage 19 RG Ultra. I pulled primary cover again. Checked all torques and bearings for noise and everything was tight/smooth. I tightened chain autotensioner one tooth at a time and started the bike to check for noise. I did this four times and finally dialed it in tonight. Chain seems a little tighter than I’d like (1/2” with flex from shoe) but it calmed the noise way down. I guess I’ll just need to keep an eye on the shoe and see if it wears down too fast.
@@newbelgium4 That is a nice bike! And I hope you get a long life out of that shoe.
Putting a man of war Sprocket in your bike can cause Neutral knock it's your clutch plates tapping the basket. Hopefully that helps you
@@BWTTis this good or bad I’m looking to replace mine on my road glide as it as 30,000 miles what do you suggest on replacement
Oh, I had a compensator replaced under warranty. That was 70k or so miles ago. So I am trying to figure out how I got lucky.🤔
Maybe the second one was made out of tuffer stuff!
@@LoneWolferGarage Or I have a defective Harley! They should not last this long😄
You and me both! Hahahaha. Michelle is about to cross the "official" 90,000 mark. i didn't have a speedy on her for a summer and put at least a grand on her while riding durty.
@@LoneWolferGarage Oh No! Michelle is falsifying her age like a face lift.😄
I’m having the same hard start issues. It gets embarrassing and when I’m at gas station I pray it isn’t the time it does it when people are around.😂 I bought my Dark Horse comp a year ago and still haven’t done it yet, but I think I’ll get around to it next weekend this time.😂 When I’m in there I’m replacing the clutch, switching to a manual chain adjuster and changing the inner primary bearing.
Dang, get on that! 100% Worth the work. Dark horse did suggest to me to keep my OEM chain adjuster, but I am curious to find out what your results are if you swap it out for a manual. And if yours doing the inner primary bearing make sure you know exactly where your long set of Allen sockets are. I didn’t and had to run out half way thru the job to pick up a new set cause mine seems to have been stolen by gnomes.
@@LoneWolferGarage I’m planning on doing it Monday when I finish my night shifts. Maybe I’ll call Dark Horse to ask about the the manual vs auto adjuster. Thanks for the heads up on both the allen sockets and the adjuster, and I hear you about the gnomes.😂
@@deegan727 I'm interested in what dark horse has to say about the chain tensioner also I was kind of told to change mine out to a manual adjustment chain tensioner I was kind of surprised to hear Dark Horse said to leave the stock one in there!!
@@danwhyte3524 Yeah, I never contacted them. I already had everything and figured might as well use it. I see a lot of people going either way. I installed the DH comp, Baker chain adjuster, Baker inner primary bearing and new clutch pack. When I adjusted the adjuster to 7/8 like the instructions say 5/8-7/8 and people that have talked to Baker said Baker recommended 7/8 I found a lot of chain noise. I knew it was going to be a little noisier but I felt it was a lot so I reopened the primary and went one notch tighter. Time will tell if I’m excessively wearing anything out, but I seriously doubt it and suspect I’d be wearing things out being as loose as it was. I re measured the slack and get a little under 5/8 at it tightest spot in the chain and a little under 7/8 at it’s loosest. I limp wristed checked it the first time and feel that’s why it was probably too noisy and loose. The torque of the engine and down shifting/engine breaking puts more stress on that chain than that so I checked it by pressing the chain a bit the second time instead of lightly checking the slack. I like everything now especially the comp. I was having nasty hot starts that sounded like the primary had a bunch of extra parts lying around in there.😂 The stock comp looked decent but I think the spring pack went limp. I will say I was little surprised when I weighed the DH and required Harley rotor and everything that it was replacing. The DH setup was almost 2# heavier not “up to 2# lighter” like they say. I was kind of hoping for it to be lighter to free up some rotating mass that would help the engine respond a little quicker. No regrets though, I’m confident that’s the last compensator that bike will need. Sorry it’s long winded, but I like to pass on as much as I can about things that have limited info out there.
@@LoneWolferGarage I installed everything and have about 400 miles on the setup. I did go with the manual adjuster. Everything is good so far after reopening the primary to adjust the chain a bit tighter. I explained everything in my response to Dan Whyte in these comments.
How I can buy this compensator?
link to Darkhorse Crank works is in the description.
Brother, you're going to want to add about 13 more ounces of fluid to your primary. The spec for dry fill is different than that of a service fill. Otherwise great video!
Fair observation. I don’t have my manual in front of me but I believe it calls for 36 oz wet and 42 dry. Both are higher than the amount in a quart. But from experience and visual inspection, 32 oz or one quart gets my primary filled to the perfect spot at the bottom of the clutch basket when the cover has come off. It’s usually about 28 oz when it’s just a fluid change. Not saying HD is wrong but 36 or 42 would have it spilling out of the fill hole when filling it. And I always end up with an extra quart of formula+ sitting around when I do fluid changes cause I buy 3 of them thinking this will be the time the Sportster and Dyna will actually need what the manual says. Never does though.
@@LoneWolferGarage no need to use hd fluid. Regular old delvac or delo 15w40 works just as good if not better. Synthetic fluids will definitely cause your clutch to slip
Can you get one with less teeth to gear down a little?
That is a good question! I do not have an answer for that though, but the good folks over at Darkhorse Crankworks have some great customer service folks and can be reached through their website of call their shop. I've had them on the horn a few times and always got tons of great info and advice from them!
I am thinking of adding a tooth or two.
I'll give darkhorse a call in the morning.
2000 heritage softail with GOBBS of torque!!! Plenty of power to add an extra tooth or two
Those glasses make you look like DC's Plastic Man.😁
I’ll take that as a compliment!
How’s it working now
Great! Still working on the review but I’ll have more thoughts published soonish.
I noticed you did Not install an Oil Deflector onto the inside of your outer primary cover. This video being shot 2 years ago, maybe they didn't offer them then. Or maybe you have installed one since. If you have not installed an oil deflector, maybe give Andrew at Darkhorse a call and ask him to send you one.
If you have installed an oil deflector; Did you glue it in or used clips to attach it to the existing ribs inside the case? Please let me know, Thanks
I did not install the oil deflector. It wasn’t part of the kit when I bought it. I’ll reach out to Darkhorse and see if they recommend me adding that as well.
I finally got around to calling Darkhorse. They said it was not required or even recommended to install the oil deflector in my bike. They said that different year twin cams have different primary inner and outers. I know that my inner has to come off to reprove my stator so that tracks as I’ve replaced stators in other Dynas and that wasn’t necessary. They said that more then enough primary fluid makes it into my outlook slinging spacer for my bike which is a 2012 Switchback. Seems that is not the case for all years of the twin cam Dynas and Touring bikes. Glad I called just to get more info.
Glad you called Andrew. He is a real straight shooter and will always hook you up with whatever your bike needs for optimum performance. Great that you like their Motor Sprocket. It was the First and Best Modification I've made to my bike!!!@@LoneWolferGarage
Might be rebuildable with a $40 kit but what they won't tell you is that you can't do it yourself and from what their video shows if you have a high hp bike like mine you only get 10k miles per rebuild
You're gonna have to be real specific on why you do not think it cannot be rebuilt with their parts by yourself.
Damn swearing. You sound like an old combat-weary Marine. I should know. Good video.
I was raised by a sailer and his wife who had put the sailer to shame with here vernacular. Thanks for watching!
There is still noise its a harley once it warms up mine Still makes noise
Yeah, noises in a Harley par for the course but new ones are always troubling.
replace the chain tensioner with a prs manual tensioner the Harley one is junk and will put unnecessary strain on the engine and trans chaffs
I've been looking at a Hayden as I'm not sold on a manual. I have a Sporty which has a manual tentioner and it can be more time consuming than I like to get it dialed in.
Unfortunately 05 and earlier doesn't have an upgraded option to put a different sprocket we have to just deal with new spring packs and replace them when they go every 20,000 mi what a ridiculous manufacture build
I know that Darkhorse only makes sprockets down to 07, but I think that there are options such as a solid sprocket for earlier years. Barnet may also make something for earlier TC and Evo engines but since I don't own any of those I have no authority there.
Bdl and baker have options
You need to eat magnesium ,you don't have enough in you that's why you get a cramp, go get calcium magnesium and zinc tablets eat then 4 times a week your getting older so take them!, don't argue with me like that !, Just take them and say good by to cramps!, geez I'm only tryin to help
I'll stop arguing, I bought the supplements.
@@LoneWolferGarage you may find yourself shitting through the eye of a needle at 40 Paces you eat those you won't get cramps but don't bend over and forget about the supplements! Other than that I like the video good sense of humor I've got some noise too I haven't been riding it cuz I haven't had time to fix it I don't think it is the compensator sprocket though might be the inner primary bearing making noise! Goes into first fine starts up fine doesn't clunk definitely noisy though.
@@danwhyte3524 Stinks of it is the inner primary bearings, but not too hard of a job. Just remember to have long allen sockets to pull your starter off. I had to wait until the next day when I pulled my inner primary off cause I misplaced that particular socket set.
@@LoneWolferGarage hey thank you very much for the tip I'll remember that!! My biggest worry is pulling the bearing on the clutch hub shaft!! That's not the proper name for it but I think you know what I mean. Cuz if I go that far I might as well change that up too.
Riding tall says always carry mustard packets on a long ride so if you cramp , mustard is quick to alleviate cramps !!
I made it 34 seconds into your act. Hell there might have been some good info in there if I could only watch.
Sounds like someone with a poopy diaper needs attention. Waaaaaaaaa
@@LoneWolferGarage maybe your mommy will change it for you
@@USIRON78 wow you don’t even know how a fucking insult works. How much lead paint have you eaten throughout your life? Warning labels are specifically written for you.
@@LoneWolferGarage Yawn. Don't give up your day job Skippy.
@@USIRON78 your lack of wit tells me one of two things - you have never had a lover or the few you’ve had left bored, unfulfilled and unsatisfied.
Interesting how people would rather pull up to loosen, than push down (way easier and you can use your weight) I’ll never understand that one???
I was taught never to stand on or push down on my torque wrench as it can cause damage. So, to keep things consistent I try never to stand on or push down on a breaker bar either as it is an easy step/mistake to just do the same to your torque wrench. Also, when it comes to how bodies work, we have a great deal more control with a pulling action rather than a pushing. I could push down on the wrench but I cannot exert or really control the force. So for me, I can push down with my weight and maybe increase the pressure quickly to maybe %10 higher with control than my weight utilizing my core and arm strength. Or I can pull and double my power as I am now engaging my legs, glutes, back and core, and have 10 times as much control.
Ram your knuckles into something 1 time after the wrench slips off and you'll know why. Lone Wolf is correct about being able to better control the force by pulling.
30 minute video for this??? I installed this at 2 a.m. two Saturdays ago and it didn't take 30 minutes.
A. The install portion took 22ish minutes in the video. 2. There’s this amazing feature if you are watching it on a phone or tablet where you can double tap on the right side of the video to fast forward 10 seconds. Or even more impressive is this feature where you can increase the speed at which the video plays. But the most impressive thing would be if you had recorded yourself installing the product to prove it took less than 22ish minutes to drain the primary, remove floorboard assembly, remove primary cover, remove clutch basket & compensator, installed new sprocket, reinstalled clutch basket, reinstalled primary cover, reinstalled floorboard assembly and filled with the correct amount of primary fluid. I’ll wait.
One thing I noticed, that you did wrong. Was when you were checking the alignment of the compensator and Clutch basket. You "Didn't" snug the bolts down on them. I can't remember, I do believe that they said something around just 20ft lbs to seat them on the shafts. Otherwise your readings not very accurate, at all.
Otherwise, It seems you did a good job. Even though you were new to this job at hand. You still made it make sense. I obviously don't know everything either, or else I wouldnt be here watching your video. I'm actually trying to figure out, why Dark Horse calls for a new rotor if it's going on a Softail 96ci 07-13? Not positive on the exact years. But Mines in that category regardless. It seems to be a stock part/rotor. So I'm confused as to why it's asking for this item, that's already on the bike. Anyone know?
That is a good catch but I don't remember seeing that in the instructions, but I definitely have skipped a step or two in my time reading too quickly. As for your bike, I believe it has to do with the welded dish that is part of the rotor. It cause an problem with spacing.
Dude. Why do you start the breaker bar from the 2 o’clock position when loosing. You are working too hard. Why not start at the 11 o’clock position and use your weight to help?
Because I was taught to not use my weight unless absolutely necessary because I don't want to damage anything. I'll move onto the pipe method before putting too much weight on it.
Cool video but bro you couldn't have fast forward it when the primary cover was off??
You really made a sit through you draining the primary and removing the cover Oh my
There is a great function in CZcams where you can increase the playback speed or if you are watching on your phone you can double tap on the right side of the screen and it will fast forward 10 seconds. The more you know. Thanks for watching.
Hey my man how did it do with the sprocket, I think I have to do the same The knocking is driving me crazy especially at WOT, and at idle when it gets really hot it knocks all the time every gear, every which way. Have you heard of a 070 spacer to put on the inside of the OEM compensator bolt? I have the older compensator '05 and earlier, not the SE
@@-MrRichBiker1967 It is doing great with the Man O' War sprocket. Just did another trip up to The 100th Laconia Bike Week and put another 1k on the clock. I'll have almost 10k on this motorsprocket by the end of the month. As for the knocking, yeah that was something I experienced with the failing compensator. If you are refereing to the spacer that helps sling oil onto the compensator in conjunction with a fin that you have to glue to the inside of your primary then yes I have read about that. I don't have any real knowledge on that though as it didn't apply to a 2012, I think it applied to 2008 bikes and earlier but my memory sucks these days.
An oil deflector is supposed to go inside the primary cover to aim oil at the new slinger.
Negative on the twin cam models.
@@LoneWolferGarage Merely passing on what Dark Horse and Harley Davidson suggest. Peace.