A simple demonstration on the effect of lifting the handle versus pivoting the handle to sharpen the belly of the knife with a Tormek T8 @TormekSharpening
Question for you, if you have the time. Your lift technique worked perfectly. I'm able to lift a burr for most of the blade, but as I approach the hilt, the burr decreases or disappears altogether. I've already learned (on crappy knives) that a slight delay near the hilt creates an uneven bevel. Do I then keep sharpening the entire blade until the burr appears near the hilt? Perhaps I've already answered my question! Thanks again.
That part of the blade is tricky to get just because it has less contact time. If it is the only part not to have a burr, what I do is dwell on that part - moving the knife slowly - and then once I’m clear of it I move much faster. That allows to not over grind the part of the knife that already has a burr, but also keep it smoothly blended in with the part you are having to apply extra time to… I hope that makes sense. It can sometimes help to apply a bit of marker to the blade as well, just so you can see where the area of focus is.
Thank you for a great video. I’ve started watching you over the last few days you’re putting out great Content. What Wheel are you using in this video? Thank you.
Convex and concave edges are done by lifting and lowering the handle respectively - I have a video about the latter from a few months ago (called ‘sharpening concave edges on a tormek, or something like that)… Concave is definitely trickier because the point of contact for grinding is so small, and when you have concave and convert on one blade that is trickiest of all to blend it all in smoothly. Hopefully this video and that other one will help, but it’s certainly something that needs practice…. Good luck!
That’s true, and I should have clarified that in the video. This issue is more relevant for people with the old style jig, so any young kids buying their first tormek these days won’t know what I’m talking about ;)
Perhaps its because we both speak 'Canadian' (!) but I finally understand the concept. Thanks again for the time you take to film and explain.
Question for you, if you have the time. Your lift technique worked perfectly. I'm able to lift a burr for most of the blade, but as I approach the hilt, the burr decreases or disappears altogether. I've already learned (on crappy knives) that a slight delay near the hilt creates an uneven bevel. Do I then keep sharpening the entire blade until the burr appears near the hilt? Perhaps I've already answered my question! Thanks again.
That part of the blade is tricky to get just because it has less contact time. If it is the only part not to have a burr, what I do is dwell on that part - moving the knife slowly - and then once I’m clear of it I move much faster. That allows to not over grind the part of the knife that already has a burr, but also keep it smoothly blended in with the part you are having to apply extra time to… I hope that makes sense. It can sometimes help to apply a bit of marker to the blade as well, just so you can see where the area of focus is.
@@greatedgeltd I'll give this a whirl. Thanks and much appreciated.
Excellent video, I have been having issues with the curve and nothing was ever clear on the handle angle. It makes sense. Thank You
Thanks for tuning in and I’m glad it helped.
Thank you
How do you sharpen the section of the blade closest to the handle? Where the top of the handle is higher than the bottom of the blade?
Thank you for a great video. I’ve started watching you over the last few days you’re putting out great Content. What Wheel are you using in this video? Thank you.
Thank you - it is a CBN 160 grit in this video
I have the same issue using a Worksharp Ken Onion Elite. I'm going to adapt your method.
How do you deal with a kukri or any other weird shape knife?
Convex and concave edges are done by lifting and lowering the handle respectively - I have a video about the latter from a few months ago (called ‘sharpening concave edges on a tormek, or something like that)… Concave is definitely trickier because the point of contact for grinding is so small, and when you have concave and convert on one blade that is trickiest of all to blend it all in smoothly. Hopefully this video and that other one will help, but it’s certainly something that needs practice…. Good luck!
Interesting to see the difference but what about the use of the KJ-45 holding jig, whith I think one could pivot instead of of lifting?.?
That’s true, and I should have clarified that in the video. This issue is more relevant for people with the old style jig, so any young kids buying their first tormek these days won’t know what I’m talking about ;)