Look, this is absolutely, hands down the best informative demonstration of this tool. I have heard nothing but complaints about this. I bought one myself because I need it despite the negatives. I read the manual and saw this video. I am now 100% certain I made the right decision. There are just a lot of people that are either not mechanicaly inclined or just don't know how to follow instructions. Anywho, love the setup as well. Thanks.
Larry George I thoroughly agree with you sir! By far and away the best run down of the features of this tool and the drill sharpened went through that 1/4" steel just like a knife through warm butter! I'm on the other side of the pond but very similar British made tools are available over here, and I am waiting for one to arrive as we speak. I bought one of these tool nearly 40 years ago for the workshops of the high school I taught woodwork and metalwork at. I looked on you tube to remind myself of how they were used. I must say that according to UK and European health and safety legislation we are not allowed to grind on the side of a wheel, but we all know that we all do so from time to time. ( like grinding lathe tool bits where you want a straight, flat surface that only the side of a wheel can produce)
How refreshing to listen to someone who speaks coherently, just a pleasure to see every point on one tool covered so thoroughly it is not going unappreciated.
WELL DONE TO YOU SIR, for taking the time to explain about this device alot of people complain about this tool on CZcams, So it's now very clear to me they are not setting it up properly and not following the instructions. Drills CAN be sharpened by hand but as iv said before no matter how accurate you think you are your never going to be 100% accurate and if you want to drill a round hole you need this device. Iv been using one of these tools for more than 40yrs all my friends comment on how sharp my drills are. People making negative comments on here about these devices obviously cant set it up rite. So if you can set one up by taking the time to read the instructions you will always have sharp drills ready for use .
Best instructional video out there I have seen for this tool, which is why I just ordered one from Amazon. Thanks, for showing the details of the setup - I won't need the instructions anyway, as long as I study this video a few times!
Very helpful video! I have one of those jigs bought around 1970 - it was very cheap I remember and the brand is ETC - a Japanese company copying various high quality brands. I never got any good results with it but usually never throw things away that might be useful later. Today as retired engineer I have a small workshop an have just got a grinding system for small endmills into workíng operation and can enjoy getting just very little blunted endmills back to state of brand new. Some 5-6 years ago I bought the Drill Doctor 750. I sharpened maybe 20 drills in various sizes but soon enoygh the result was giving more and more offset center and also negative relief angle on one side. The remedy seems to be a purchase of a new chuck. I then bought the drill sharpening system for the Swedish Tormek wet grinding systems grinder. This one works extremely well but requires som practiziing an for small drills it is very heavy and clumsy. So - after seen your video I looked up my 50 years old Japanese duplicate and tried it again. No - it did not give the expected result. However I nowdays have far better understanding how things should work, and the problem with mine is the little guide onto witch the flute should rest. The little guide is made of wery soft steel and has not correct configuration - of course the drill should line up with the cutting edges vertically - not like mine that is fair for 15 mm diameter but definately not for 6 mm.
excellent vid. particularly close up in 2 locations of drill setting on edge to line it up prior grinding. also measuring both sides of drill. then the test in steel. well done
This has to be the best explanation I have seen. Certainly a great tradesman. Thank you for making a great effort two explain. I will be buying one of these jigs made in the USA .
Excellent video, my eyes and hands aren't good enough to sharpen drills by hand. I've been looking for a good inexpensive jig for years, I can't justify spending $100 plus for a drill sharpener. Thank you so much for this. Jim Y
Merci pour cette vidéo. Tes explications sont vraiment très claires et détaillées. J'ai acheté cet outil il y a quelques jours et grâce à toi, je vais pouvoir l'utiliser correctement. Les explications que j'avais avant ne marchaient pas.
Following your instructions, (and against all odds) my first attempt at using this was a total success! I sharpened a hand full of bits that are now cutting like new! The outcome could not have been better. One suggestion; quit your current job and do these videos for a living!
Great video, I bought the grinder yesterday an tried doing some by hand today. They were ok, it took a while to get the hang of it again. But I would prefer to get a more precise cut, I ordered it a couple of hours ago and it will be here on Monday. Made in USA !, I Looked at others and after watching your video and a couple of other guys I decided on this one.
I’ve had one of these for 50 years or more. They work flawlessly if you set it up carefully and go slowly. They are not for sharpening dozens of small sizes which you have abused, but rather put a keen edge on a larger >3/8 inch which sort about $10 each for a good one. Stavros
I watched several videos on this same tool; *yours is the best I saw* . I have a lot of old bits and this will save me money as well as the time to get new bits. Thanks.
Thanks for this I’ve just bought a 1980s mint condition version of this from the Uk identical except it is blue - this is a really great and helpful vid many many thanks
I've had one of these in a drawer for years and have never tried it! Guess it's time now that I've watched your video. And with your video I've learned how to use it properly, thanks!👍
Really nice review. I bought this jig maybe 20 years ago and I couldn't get decent results with it. I just found it in a box in my shop and came to youtube to see if anyone ever figured out how to use it. What you said about the 32nd makes perfect sense. I'm going to give it another chance. If it works, I've got a bunch of bits to sharpen. I've always just bought new but for some reason I think I've kept every one of my dull bits. You've been a big help. Thanks!
Thank you so much for this video! I received my sharpener and there was a warning to not grind on the side of the wheel unless it is manufactured for side grinding. So I set it up to grind on the face of the wheel. Made sure I had it perpendicular to the face and just put it on the same ¾” plywood I have my grinder mounted on. ¾” plywood is then screwed down to the counter top which is more ¾” plywood. Mounted screw 2 ¼” from the face. It was grinding too much off of the heel of two different drill bits. I was going to give up and send it back, but watched your video and decided to mount it on the side like you did. Just used a ninety degree drawing triangle to get it 2 ¼” from the side of the wheel and square or perpendicular to the side of the wheel. Took a little grinding to get the point even with the heel, but checked it with the same tool you have and I have nice 59 degree angles, cutting edges measures same length. So point is in the center. Tried it on a piece of steel and sure enough it drilled right through. Thanks to you I am keeping the tool since it does a good job. Not sure what was the matter with my front set up. Seemed like the drill bits were in the center of the 8” wheel, same location as the ninety degree triangle made contact with the face of the wheel, but bad results. I am careful to go slow since grinding on the side of the wheel instead of the face. Thank you, Keep up the good work!
Got one a few weeks ago, still dust on the box when purchased haha after watching your video, it clears up a lot about the little indicator point and where it goes in relation to the drill. That will make all the difference in how it sharpens. Great video!
i was thinking of buying one of the electric bit sharpeners but this caught my eye and since i have a bench grinder i think this will do the trick + it will do larger bits .great video...
Dear Sir: I have that tool that a neighbor gave me before moving to another address. I thought it was some incomplete tool or that it was garbage, but I have been finding out and I am surprised by the gift. I need to buy the bench grinder and start using it soon. Thanks for your video and kind regards from Mexico City.
I have this device since the 80's, it has not evolved since then, it is the same, I had never used it because I had lost the instructions. and I just modified my support like you, I followed your explanations and it's perfect, I sharpened my first drill of 13, and it cuts very well in the steel, without pre-drilling, thank you very much
Great video, thanks for publishing the setup and use. I borrowed one from my neighbor, set it up like you did using side of grinding wheel but I couldn’t get the 8 to 12 degree relief angle, so I had drag and not good cutting. I re-set up the jig using front of wheel and that fixed the problem, not sure what I did wrong initially. Anyway, thanks again, it’s an awesome jig for sharpening drill bits.
This is a great video! I have the same jig and had no instructions with it (bought second hand), knew it was made in USA and I have a few tools that I purchased at the same time as the jig, all American made. I can honestly say that USA tools are made to high standards, as are British made tools, they last a lifetime or more if cared for unlike some others that seem to be designed to last just so long. I am so pleased to have discovered this video and have now been able to locate and download the instructions. You camera work is great as is the description of use, giving useful tips. Just one thing, when you drilled through the metal, please don't wipe off the swarf with your thumb/fingers, it is an easy way to get cuts, that swarf is sharp! (This from my metalwork teacher from over sixty years ago and embedded in my memory banks). Thank you for taking the time to post, I wish you well in all your endeavours.
Thank you for this video. I think the quality of the drill bit is very important. Obviously, when you sharpen cheap drills, you get what you pay for...
When you sharpen a cheap drill you get a cheap drill that has been sharpened. If you're drilling wood for general construction you don't need a cobalt high speed steel bit but if you're drilling precision holes in titanium you may find it more economical to use a carbide bit. Cheap is relative to the material you're working on.
just bought an older Craftsman 9-6677, which i assume was actually made many years ago by General as Craftsman never made many tools but contracted others to make and then they put their name on them. Hope to learn how to use it as easily as these type of videos make them look.
A good indication for a balanced grind is look at the hole befor you drill to the full diameter of hole and look at how it looks and the chips or coils are they equal in size from eather flutes. And as a rule of practice I grind equal on both sides to the degree of counting how menny times. I do the same with knives. Since I started doing that I found I do far superior job on anything I try to sharpen !
I got one of these in either '68 or '69, i.e. over 50 years ago. I still have it, and like it as much as ever, even though, having been retired since 2000, I don't use it as much as I used to. When set up properly, it does a terrific job, as good as a factory sharpening. I use it for bits down to 3/16 and up to 13/16. Smaller than that I do by hand. The biggest danger is, trying to take off too much at a time, and heating up the bit in the process. To avoid that, I got a wet grinder a few years ago, and that was the end of that problem. While it's ok to use the face of the grinding wheel for small bits, I prefer to use the side of the wheel for larger bits. I've also discovered that the quality of the grinding wheel is a factor, and considering how long a wheel lasts, when it's not being abused, and occasionally dressed, it's a small price to pay.
Thanks from France ! Instructions on my own confused me a lot ("the end of the drill bit shall be at same distance from the guide as the diameter", your technique is more simple to set up)
Could you explain your hold down mechanism? the square bar is held in place by what? I can see the t slot nuts and am wondering if the hold down is a solid piece or separate pieces, thanks, Jerry
I just bought some sweet taper shank drills in a set with some pristine tapers..... not a fleck of rust on them but the grinds are all over the map. My drills are too long to use in this jig but I wonder if it can be modified to hold a 10" max long bit
I got three of these damn things, this one, a blue point, and another monstrosity with more adjustments that i forgot how to use 30 years ago but have since become good at hand sharpening. I was about to chuck them, and out of respect for my old shop teacher, and his voice telling me wait a minute, I revisited my youth and watched your edit. Thanks. I was told to never use side of grinding wheels, eventually could become a safety issue, wheel could fly apart. Always wait a few seconds after starting before sticking your face in front of wheel, and always do a ring test before putting different wheel on. He past from complications Alzheimer's disease. He gave me a bunch of stuff before he got bad, these damn things where one of them. Aluminum oxide is bad for the body, think that's what the wheels are made of. Probably got a hand full of the crap our lungs and brains if you spent a couple decades working in machine shop environment.
Thank you sir. I am purchasing one today from Amazon. I am a 64 year old manual machinist doing machinist work since 1976. Very comfortable doing hand sharpening but like you I want consistence results. I work at Right Stuff Equipment in Denver Colorado (I'm from Rockford, Illinois) and I was able to get my own bench grinder and I put a green wheel on one side to sharpen brazed on carbide boring tools and brazed on carbide turning bits, the other wheel will be used for drill sharpening. If I may ask, what wheel are you using for side sharpening? Thanks again for this video and review, Lars
Great video. For those who don't have instructions, you can down load a copy from their website. One more thing, just about every grinding wheel manufacturer says not to grind on the side of the wheel , but just about every video shows side grinding. Just wondering if you grind on the front of the wheel, do you get the same result.
keep in mind that when using this jig on the side of the wheel you're not doing heavy grinding. its a very light pass because this tool is for sharpening not shaping. if you really mess up a bit then free hand grind using the face of the wheel and then use the jig for final sharpening.
@@kirklindstedt2018 Plus, not to mention, to me it would seem like if you're using the face of the wheel...you'd be trying to make a flat grind on a round surface, so really, you kind of don't have a choice. Not sure, but I hope that just made sense the way I tried to explain/describe it. (Also...big props to @bretthl1 for still taking the time to actually respond to comments 3+ yrs later...WAY cool of him!)
Great video, but you didn't mention (or I missed?) what grit of grinding wheel you're using. Yours looks like it might be 60 or 80? I'm thinking that 100 or 120 might be better for drill sharpening, but would love to know what you use, and your opinion of going finer.
Makes me nervous with the groove ur putting on the side of the stone, I’d be very hesitant to dress the side of that stone to get a flat area again for your bit sharpening, I’m thinking the groove as it wears into the stone will lessen the quality of the results as the groove gets deeper.
your not supposed to use the side of the grinding wheel unless the grinding wheel is made for that. the instructions state that twice. have to use the front of the wheel.
bretthl1 - right, it works, but the wheel is not designed for stresses on the side, it can blow apart. Until the second it blows apart, it will work fine.
Excellent review by a patient craftsman who knows what he's doing. Gotta love CZcams when you find gems like this!
Look, this is absolutely, hands down the best informative demonstration of this tool. I have heard nothing but complaints about this. I bought one myself because I need it despite the negatives. I read the manual and saw this video. I am now 100% certain I made the right decision. There are just a lot of people that are either not mechanicaly inclined or just don't know how to follow instructions. Anywho, love the setup as well. Thanks.
Larry George I thoroughly agree with you sir! By far and away the best run down of the features of this tool and the drill sharpened went through that 1/4" steel just like a knife through warm butter! I'm on the other side of the pond but very similar British made tools are available over here, and I am waiting for one to arrive as we speak. I bought one of these tool nearly 40 years ago for the workshops of the high school I taught woodwork and metalwork at. I looked on you tube to remind myself of how they were used. I must say that according to UK and European health and safety legislation we are not allowed to grind on the side of a wheel, but we all know that we all do so from time to time. ( like grinding lathe tool bits where you want a straight, flat surface that only the side of a wheel can produce)
How refreshing to listen to someone who speaks coherently, just a pleasure to see every point on one tool covered so thoroughly it is not going unappreciated.
WELL DONE TO YOU SIR, for taking the time to explain about this device alot of people complain about this tool on CZcams, So it's now very clear to me they are not setting it up properly and not following the instructions. Drills CAN be sharpened by hand but as iv said before no matter how accurate you think you are your never going to be 100% accurate and if you want to drill a round hole you need this device. Iv been using one of these tools for more than 40yrs all my friends comment on how sharp my drills are. People making negative comments on here about these devices obviously cant set it up rite. So if you can set one up by taking the time to read the instructions you will always have sharp drills ready for use .
Best instructional video out there I have seen for this tool, which is why I just ordered one from Amazon. Thanks, for showing the details of the setup - I won't need the instructions anyway, as long as I study this video a few times!
Very helpful video! I have one of those jigs bought around 1970 - it was very cheap I remember and the brand is ETC - a Japanese company copying various high quality brands. I never got any good results with it but usually never throw things away that might be useful later.
Today as retired engineer I have a small workshop an have just got a grinding system for small endmills into workíng operation and can enjoy getting just very little blunted endmills back to state of brand new.
Some 5-6 years ago I bought the Drill Doctor 750. I sharpened maybe 20 drills in various sizes but soon enoygh the result was giving more and more offset center and also negative relief angle on one side. The remedy seems to be a purchase of a new chuck. I then bought the drill sharpening system for the Swedish Tormek wet grinding systems grinder. This one works extremely well but requires som practiziing an for small drills it is very heavy and clumsy.
So - after seen your video I looked up my 50 years old Japanese duplicate and tried it again. No - it did not give the expected result. However I nowdays have far better understanding how things should work, and the problem with mine is the little guide onto witch the flute should rest. The little guide is made of wery soft steel and has not correct configuration - of course the drill should line up with the cutting edges vertically - not like mine that is fair for 15 mm diameter but definately not for 6 mm.
Great vid. Comprehensive demonstration of the sharpening jig and testing of the sharpened drill bit. Thanks.
excellent vid. particularly close up in 2 locations of drill setting on edge to line it up prior grinding. also measuring both sides of drill. then the test in steel. well done
Best video I have seen on using this tool to date.
This has to be the best explanation I have seen. Certainly a great tradesman. Thank you for making a great effort two explain. I will be buying one of these jigs made in the USA .
The detailed view of the indicator position is very useful. Thanks.
Excellent video, my eyes and hands aren't good enough to sharpen drills by hand. I've been looking for a good inexpensive jig for years, I can't justify spending $100 plus for a drill sharpener. Thank you so much for this. Jim Y
Glad to help
Merci pour cette vidéo.
Tes explications sont vraiment très claires et détaillées.
J'ai acheté cet outil il y a quelques jours et grâce à toi, je vais pouvoir l'utiliser correctement.
Les explications que j'avais avant ne marchaient pas.
Following your instructions, (and against all odds) my first attempt at using this was a total success! I sharpened a hand full of bits that are now cutting like new! The outcome could not have been better. One suggestion; quit your current job and do these videos for a living!
Great video, I bought the grinder yesterday an tried doing some by hand today. They were ok, it took a while to get the hang of it again. But I would prefer to get a more precise cut, I ordered it a couple of hours ago and it will be here on Monday. Made in USA !, I Looked at others and after watching your video and a couple of other guys I decided on this one.
Excellent observation. I love supporting a great tool that solves the problem including those that teach others how to use it :-)
Thanks for that review. I am thinking of getting one myself, but wasn't sure what to expect. The results look good.
I’ve had one of these for 50 years or more. They work flawlessly if you set it up carefully and go slowly. They are not for sharpening dozens of small sizes which you have abused, but rather put a keen edge on a larger >3/8 inch which sort about $10 each for a good one.
Stavros
I watched several videos on this same tool; *yours is the best I saw* . I have a lot of old bits and this will save me money as well as the time to get new bits. Thanks.
Thanks for this I’ve just bought a 1980s mint condition version of this from the Uk identical except it is blue - this is a really great and helpful vid many many thanks
Very good explained. Thank you so much. Many greetings from Germany (Munich) to the USA!
I've had one of these in a drawer for years and have never tried it! Guess it's time now that I've watched your video. And with your video I've learned how to use it properly, thanks!👍
Really nice review. I bought this jig maybe 20 years ago and I couldn't get decent results with it. I just found it in a box in my shop and came to youtube to see if anyone ever figured out how to use it. What you said about the 32nd makes perfect sense. I'm going to give it another chance. If it works, I've got a bunch of bits to sharpen. I've always just bought new but for some reason I think I've kept every one of my dull bits. You've been a big help. Thanks!
So did it work?
Cool. Found one of these and now I just need to set it up. Seems simple enough. Thanks for the video.
Thank you so much for this video! I received my sharpener and there was a warning to not grind on the side of the wheel unless it is manufactured for side grinding. So I set it up to grind on the face of the wheel. Made sure I had it perpendicular to the face and just put it on the same ¾” plywood I have my grinder mounted on. ¾” plywood is then screwed down to the counter top which is more ¾” plywood. Mounted screw 2 ¼” from the face. It was grinding too much off of the heel of two different drill bits. I was going to give up and send it back, but watched your video and decided to mount it on the side like you did. Just used a ninety degree drawing triangle to get it 2 ¼” from the side of the wheel and square or perpendicular to the side of the wheel. Took a little grinding to get the point even with the heel, but checked it with the same tool you have and I have nice 59 degree angles, cutting edges measures same length. So point is in the center. Tried it on a piece of steel and sure enough it drilled right through. Thanks to you I am keeping the tool since it does a good job. Not sure what was the matter with my front set up. Seemed like the drill bits were in the center of the 8” wheel, same location as the ninety degree triangle made contact with the face of the wheel, but bad results. I am careful to go slow since grinding on the side of the wheel instead of the face. Thank you, Keep up the good work!
Thats what i want to do with mine, thinks for the info
Great video. Great demo. Thank you for sharing.
Got one a few weeks ago, still dust on the box when purchased haha after watching your video, it clears up a lot about the little indicator point and where it goes in relation to the drill. That will make all the difference in how it sharpens. Great video!
@@manubhaipatel9643 I think $35.00?
inherited this 825. had no idea how to use it. Thank You.
i was thinking of buying one of the electric bit sharpeners but this caught my eye and since i have a bench grinder i think this will do the trick + it will do larger bits .great video...
Excellent review, I just got the same one, thanks for the info.
Great demonstration - blown users negative comments on this device out of the water - seems they're not using it correctly
Thank you,very comprehensive demo 🙃
Dear Sir:
I have that tool that a neighbor gave me before moving to another address. I thought it was some incomplete tool or that it was garbage, but I have been finding out and I am surprised by the gift.
I need to buy the bench grinder and start using it soon.
Thanks for your video and kind regards from Mexico City.
I have this device since the 80's, it has not evolved since then, it is the same, I had never used it because I had lost the instructions.
and I just modified my support like you, I followed your explanations and it's perfect, I sharpened my first drill of 13, and it cuts very well in the steel, without pre-drilling, thank you very much
Been using this type of drill bit sharpener for years, first used one around 1985, they work great, set it up properly, and go slow.
Great video. I believe I'll buy one and give it a try
I just got mine today, thanks for the vid its very helpful
Glad it helped
Thank you very much. I think I'm happy I ordered this.
Great video, thanks for publishing the setup and use. I borrowed one from my neighbor, set it up like you did using side of grinding wheel but I couldn’t get the 8 to 12 degree relief angle, so I had drag and not good cutting. I re-set up the jig using front of wheel and that fixed the problem, not sure what I did wrong initially. Anyway, thanks again, it’s an awesome jig for sharpening drill bits.
This is a great video! I have the same jig and had no instructions with it (bought second hand), knew it was made in USA and I have a few tools that I purchased at the same time as the jig, all American made. I can honestly say that USA tools are made to high standards, as are British made tools, they last a lifetime or more if cared for unlike some others that seem to be designed to last just so long. I am so pleased to have discovered this video and have now been able to locate and download the instructions. You camera work is great as is the description of use, giving useful tips. Just one thing, when you drilled through the metal, please don't wipe off the swarf with your thumb/fingers, it is an easy way to get cuts, that swarf is sharp! (This from my metalwork teacher from over sixty years ago and embedded in my memory banks). Thank you for taking the time to post, I wish you well in all your endeavours.
Thank you for an excellent tutorial.
Thank you for this video. I think the quality of the drill bit is very important. Obviously, when you sharpen cheap drills, you get what you pay for...
When you sharpen a cheap drill you get a cheap drill that has been sharpened. If you're drilling wood for general construction you don't need a cobalt high speed steel bit but if you're drilling precision holes in titanium you may find it more economical to use a carbide bit. Cheap is relative to the material you're working on.
Thanks! That helped me remember how the damn thing works!
just bought an older Craftsman 9-6677, which i assume was actually made many years ago by General as Craftsman never made many tools but contracted others to make and then they put their name on them. Hope to learn how to use it as easily as these type of videos make them look.
A good indication for a balanced grind is look at the hole befor you drill to the full diameter of hole and look at how it looks and the chips or coils are they equal in size from eather flutes. And as a rule of practice I grind equal on both sides to the degree of counting how menny times. I do the same with knives. Since I started doing that I found I do far superior job on anything I try to sharpen !
Great review thanx
Great methodical approach ,the tool seems to be a simple version of the lisle drill grinder demonstrated by shop talk 22 on you tube thanks
I got one of these in either '68 or '69, i.e. over 50 years ago. I still have it, and like it as much as ever, even though, having been retired since 2000, I don't use it as much as I used to.
When set up properly, it does a terrific job, as good as a factory sharpening. I use it for bits down to 3/16 and up to 13/16. Smaller than that I do by hand. The biggest danger is, trying to take off too much at a time, and heating up the bit in the process. To avoid that, I got a wet grinder a few years ago, and that was the end of that problem.
While it's ok to use the face of the grinding wheel for small bits, I prefer to use the side of the wheel for larger bits. I've also discovered that the quality of the grinding wheel is a factor, and considering how long a wheel lasts, when it's not being abused, and occasionally dressed, it's a small price to pay.
Excelente vídeo, muito didático, parabéns!
Abraço aqui do Brasil 🇧🇷
Well what a great video. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
you know when the tip angles are correct when chips are comming out at the same time from both sides of the bit good vid thanx
Thanks a lot.
Thanks from France ! Instructions on my own confused me a lot ("the end of the drill bit shall be at same distance from the guide as the diameter", your technique is more simple to set up)
Yeah I tried that to and wound up with a chisel point way to wide for drilling metal.
Great video.... Thanks
You're welcome!
Super !
Great info. When using the side of the wheel, can you grind below or above vertical center?
Nice video
Thanks
Thank thee :-)
What are those gauges called to check the taper and widths of the bits
Could you explain your hold down mechanism? the square bar is held in place by what? I can see the t slot nuts and am wondering if the hold down is a solid piece or separate pieces, thanks,
Jerry
The base for the drill bit jig is a small piece of flat bar welded to the grinder stand.
Great tutorial. Where can I get the gage you used to measure the cutting edge length and angle?
www.amazon.com/Drill-Gage-Degree-Angle-Sharping/dp/B06VSG3D95/ref=pd_sbs_328_6/138-5094420-6687610?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B06VSG3D95&pd_rd_r=8ba31b5e-7f81-4388-ac18-5f1ec5f0e387&pd_rd_w=Rf1gE&pd_rd_wg=faDVr&pf_rd_p=bdc67ba8-ab69-42ee-b8d8-8f5336b36a83&pf_rd_r=BMFTR1C1ZGPXYFN4CFJ3&psc=1&refRID=BMFTR1C1ZGPXYFN4CFJ3
Thank you for a good video and explanation. One thing I'm wondering about is how long before you need to and how do you reface the side of a wheel?
Good point. You don't. I take very light passes. Sharpening only. For shaping hand grind using the face of the wheel.
I just bought some sweet taper shank drills in a set with some pristine tapers..... not a fleck of rust on them but the grinds are all over the map. My drills are too long to use in this jig but I wonder if it can be modified to hold a 10" max long bit
Too long. 7 inches is max length.
I got three of these damn things, this one, a blue point, and another monstrosity with more adjustments that i forgot how to use 30 years ago but have since become good at hand sharpening. I was about to chuck them, and out of respect for my old shop teacher, and his voice telling me wait a minute, I revisited my youth and watched your edit. Thanks. I was told to never use side of grinding wheels, eventually could become a safety issue, wheel could fly apart. Always wait a few seconds after starting before sticking your face in front of wheel, and always do a ring test before putting different wheel on. He past from complications Alzheimer's disease.
He gave me a bunch of stuff before he got bad, these damn things where one of them. Aluminum oxide is bad for the body, think that's what the wheels are made of. Probably got a hand full of the crap our lungs and brains if you spent a couple decades working in machine shop environment.
Thank you sir. I am purchasing one today from Amazon. I am a 64 year old manual machinist doing machinist work since 1976. Very comfortable doing hand sharpening but like you I want consistence results. I work at Right Stuff Equipment in Denver Colorado (I'm from Rockford, Illinois) and I was able to get my own bench grinder and I put a green wheel on one side to sharpen brazed on carbide boring tools and brazed on carbide turning bits, the other wheel will be used for drill sharpening. If I may ask, what wheel are you using for side sharpening? Thanks again for this video and review, Lars
Nothing fancy just a Norton medium grit that I use for HSS tooling. I live a little north of COS.
Hi thanks for the video. What is the grit of your grinding wheel? Thanks.
Norton "medium"
good video thanks! I love that vice you have on your drill press, what brand is it?
Not branded. It is a common design. Came with the drill press.
Great video. For those who don't have instructions, you can down load a copy from their website. One more thing, just about every grinding wheel manufacturer says not to grind on the side of the wheel , but just about every video shows side grinding. Just wondering if you grind on the front of the wheel, do you get the same result.
keep in mind that when using this jig on the side of the wheel you're not doing heavy grinding. its a very light pass because this tool is for sharpening not shaping. if you really mess up a bit then free hand grind using the face of the wheel and then use the jig for final sharpening.
Thanks, good point.
@@kirklindstedt2018 Plus, not to mention, to me it would seem like if you're using the face of the wheel...you'd be trying to make a flat grind on a round surface, so really, you kind of don't have a choice. Not sure, but I hope that just made sense the way I tried to explain/describe it.
(Also...big props to @bretthl1 for still taking the time to actually respond to comments 3+ yrs later...WAY cool of him!)
Good point.
Does your scale have 118 degree stamped on your tool ? Mine does not? Mine has CSK, 49,59,68 and 88 degrees.
The 59, 68. 88 is one side of the bit. Just multiply by 2 to get the full grind.
Great video, but you didn't mention (or I missed?) what grit of grinding wheel you're using. Yours looks like it might be 60 or 80? I'm thinking that 100 or 120 might be better for drill sharpening, but would love to know what you use, and your opinion of going finer.
Norton "medium". I have been using it to grind HSS lathe bits, chisels, bits etc.
What grinding wheel do you recommend for this?
Norton fine.
@@bretthl1 thank you
Nice! I'm sold! Thanks.
What is the minimum diameter drill that can be ground on this
The smallest I have had consistent results wih is 1/4 inch.
Well made video!! Wanna buy a Drill Doctor?? LOL
Yeah, I almost did, glad I didn't!
How many people drill wrong materials with wrong edges and blame this product? Probably alot
Bạn có ship sang Việt Nam không
I have always been told that using the side of the grinding wheel can cause them to break apart
Not true for this application because the grind is so light.
Makes me nervous with the groove ur putting on the side of the stone, I’d be very hesitant to dress the side of that stone to get a flat area again for your bit sharpening, I’m thinking the groove as it wears into the stone will lessen the quality of the results as the groove gets deeper.
Buenas tardes seria posible traducirlo en castellano,seria muy interesante un saludo¡¡¡¡
your not supposed to use the side of the grinding wheel unless the grinding wheel is made for that. the instructions state that twice. have to use the front of the wheel.
I use the side, no problems.
bretthl1 - right, it works, but the wheel is not designed for stresses on the side, it can blow apart. Until the second it blows apart, it will work fine.
It will be fine if you don't go to deep in the side of the wheel. Sharpening drill bits is only light grinding !
@@tacticalant3841 when the grinding wheel blows apart you've got your use out of it by then.
Paul Frederick - yea, plus the added benefit of grinding wheel frag stuck in your face.
Thanks