meanwhile I'm sitting here watching this, wondering why I was feeling so accomplished hooking up a couple negative and positive bus bars to a Plastic cutting board, with fuses and switches, for LED under seat lights, Mood lighting and stern lights for my Pontoon boat! hahaha Great job!! looks amazing! Love your videos!!!
Ty, you mention glow in dark lettering being a good safety item. You can make all your label panels now with your laser cutter and then backfill the letters with a glowing the dark paint or a paint with glow pigment added. You can even get different colors. Etching the letters on the back of a thin clear panel, backfilling with paint then glueing the thin clear panel over a sheet of black will create a smooth switch panel surface that is more durable and easy to clean since the letters are protected. You can also apply vinyl graphics of hydro dipped graphics to the in side of thin clear outer layer. Just provides better protection but you do need to ensure a good deal between the layers so it’s basically water and you don’t get salt intrusion.
I think you ought to write the "Press green button for 10 seconds.... " instructions on that panel. That is the kind of thing that someone could forget after 10 years.... Maybe even label the panel with a name/function? It is a pretty panel, and your explanation was fantastic!
You amaze me with the breadth of significant skills that you have . Very impressive Tye and I appreciate the amount of explanation that you give. Makes me feel like I understand it all. Very much enjoy your Chanel 😊
Very nice work. The Xtool laser will be useful. One observation is the 3 voltmeters should have over current protection (fuses) between the meters and the inverter positive inputs.
That new panel setup looks amazing and very professionally done too. Even painting the switch black looks great and it looks like it was done at the factory. What was the paint you used for that job. I didn’t understand what you said in the video about what it was/is. I can empathize with you on working in the heat. We were boondocking in our Fifth wheel the last three days and it appears that our transfer switch quit outputting power from our generator and then everything stopped on the 110 side. We lost around $500 of food in the refrigerator and freezer, but a local friend had enough space for us to store some of our freezer items so we didn’t lose everything. This is our only home as we’re full time (since June 2022). I wish I knew enough about the solar setup like you apparently do. Regardless, very nice work on all that setup and the new components too.
Okay, damn that is nice. My OCD wanted you to make the plate a little longer so you could mount the power switch on the same level - but dang, that was a smart solution.
Yea I thought the same. Ya know what's gunna happen when he has time now hey? It's like when you paint your own home, everyone says, wow you did a great job, but you can see all the crappy cut-ins.
Very nice video. But the red switch is on top and the black switch is on the right. It will bother you with such nice work. I'm really looking forward to the sequel
Love the laser cutter, never seen/considered that. Comparable cost to prep/coat pine, but much nicer finish. Pines more error friendly, but can swell & burn. Acrylic looks shit when scratched, but just cut another one. Love how ocd tidy your work is.
Hey Dauntless Crew, Great work, I love seeing the transformation you guys are making. The product link is broken for the X-Tool. I keep getting the Amazon Dog Error screen. Keep up the great work, love having lunch every Sunday watching you guys.
I am always looking for excuses for new tools!! Great video. How about the thin wires that run to your three voltage displays did you include any in-line fuses to protect them. If not they are fused at 500A They should have fuses rated to the gauge of that wire to prevent a fire risk.👍
Amazing work! Tiny little detail here, but I noticed that the NEG and POS lead from the battery bank going into the lynx distributor is exposed and right in the center of the space. 29:22 I can easily see someone leaning in to pick something up and accidently shorting those to connections with a tool or a sweaty shirt. Maybe insulate one of the leads? But seriously very impressive setup.
This was pretty much a „throwback-Sunday“ episode with the old tech. Will you switch to some smart system where everything is communicating via the bus (VE/CAN) in the future? I think you mentioned it a while back.
The resistor you use for discharge will be over 100 (200 F) degrees, you should mount it on a piece of metal with spacers so the metal is away from the acrylic, it is best with air all the way around the resistor.
Personally, the panel would look even better if you changed to black oxide stainless screws. You will not even see them. Used them on our helm and love them
Nice Job on the Panel! However, I think you need to go back and look at the video. When you pressed the button your displays were reading 5 . 3 volts not 53. When you switched the main then it jumped to 53 Which means there was still a lot of current flowing thru the resistor when you were holding the button. I would expect that if the inverters were fully charged there would be less current flow, and thus lower voltage drop across the pre charge resistor and it would be closer to 53 (while you were holding the button down). I guess you are lessening the amount of surge current, was 10% pre charge what you were shooting for or did I miss something?
I am more impressed by each episode and that I was able to help you in the direction of hardware. I don't recall seeing what your background is. It would be great if you could educate us as to how your electrical expertise was obtained
Thank you! My background is 2+ decades of construction and custom fabrication with an insatiable desire for learning and building new skills. AKA-- Nerd…
Nice. I Have 4 battery banks with 4 BMS's so I turned of discharge on 3 and the 4th I set to discharge 1 amp. Then I powered on my inverters and turned on other 3 BMS's to discharge and adjusted the 4th. My BMS's can discharge 250 amps at 44-58V so I turned them down to 60 amps each. When I use 10kw from my 2 inverters I pull 2500 watts from each battery pack. My batteries never se over .4C and most of time they are at .1C. They never get hot or loose from heat loss.
I'm hoping the resistor won't burn out , it will get HOT so the acrylic is not the best mounting surface, the battleborn resister must have been a clue. Good luck but I think it's under engineered try the math 100w 500ohm check the voltage drop for the dissipation.
Hi Ty, the size of your precharge resistor is too large. The precharge voltage (the voltage applied to the inverters) settles to a smidge above 5V, and doesn't increase further when holding the GO button for longer. This is due to the inverter electronics drawing current (about 100mA, if I correctly saw the resistance of your shunt resistor, 50 Ohms). When you switched on the negative switch, the inverter supplies all jumped to 52 (ish) volts. This implies that you are still ramming a very high amount of current into your inverter caps at the instance that you switch on the negative, because you applying an additional ~47V (52V - 5V) to the inverters. The caps are still being strained by this inrush current. You will need to reduce the size of the precharge resistor. I can't suggest to you what size you should be using because I don't know what the minimum supply current is for the inverters. I suggest that you 1st figure out what size resistor is needed to get the inverter precharged voltage to about 75% (the higher you can get it, the better) of your bus voltage, then you divide that resistance by 3 (for the 3 inverters) and replace your current resistor with this new value. You probably won't need any form of heat sinking on the new, smaller resistor, if you select the same wattage as you currently have (don't reduce the physical size of the new resistor). The downside of using "passive" resistors for this is the voltage drop across them, you will never get the caps to charge to your bus voltage while there is something else drawing current too. That massive "shunt resistor" that you got from BattleBorn is in fact an "active" resistor, which uses transistors to charge your caps by limiting the maximum current that can flow into them. This form of precharging will get you to within 95% of your bus voltage. Also, don't release the GO button before switching on the negative switch, keep pressing it while closing the switch, so the caps don't loose some of their charge before the circuit is closed. Thanks for sharing your build, I'm thoroughly enjoying your journey.
Good catch! I was so focused on the filming and turning the system on that I missed the voltage difference. My brain didn’t even see the decimal point. I actually put a 500 Ohm resistor in by mistake. I have (what I believe is) the correct one on order. I also need to see if I can calibrate that middle display or if I need to replace it as its registering about .5v off. Thank you for the comment and for watching!
Isn’t the pre-charge supposed to get to near battery V? 29:28 shows 5.2V not 52V and leaves the inverters only a tenth charged. Looks like it needs a bigger charger resistor.
@@SailingDauntless it shows 52V once the disconnect closes, sure. I’ve used those style displays and they don’t put the decimal wrong in my use, I’d check with a DMM that you are getting to 52V with the pre-charge. I think your reaching steady state at 5.2V
Hi Ty, I really do enjoy you guys and have from the beginning. You do great work. This is just a pure OCD question, at the end of the video when the system was booted up, two inverters were reading pretty much the same at 52.8 but one was at 53.3. Does that difference matter and I'm not really sure why there is a difference at all given that the battery banks come in via a BUS bar and singular cable. Is it in the inverter itself and will it be sorted when the Inverters communicate with each other via software?
Excellent video! I was just wondering how much space that laser thingy takes up. Also how many other large...ish tools can you buy before you run out of space?
Lucky he has a workshop hey? (Ep:128). It would pack back up in the box in came in. Altho cardboard & paper attract bugs onboard, better to store in something like a breathable bag (pillow case), laser protected in foam. Kim might have to make space in their bed 😆
Is that not the same type of machine Linus tech tips refused to fire up due to it being dangerous to use? May be worth checking why that said that before using too much.
500w divided by 48vdc (nominal) is 10.41A divide by 3 conductors with the longest wire run at 4’ @ 3.47A each nets a recommended wire size of .25mm2 or 24ga with a .33% voltage drop. I used 20ga (0.50mm2) for good measure.
I think you have the wrong size (500A) fuse in your system. That fuse should protect the wiring and 0000 Marine Wire can't handle 500Amps except at exceptionally short distances. Your system should be drawing at most 375Amps @ 48VDC which is still higher than 0000 can handle for long lengths. This is a problem I've been wrestling with on my 12V system (which I will have to upgrade to 48V in the near future).
This 4/0 single conductor 105C rated tinned copper 2100+ strand battery cable is rated (and approved by ABYC) at 455A outside of an engine space. The fuse will blow at aprox 110% of peak cable continuous duty of the cable. The voltage of the system is not relevant to the rated current, and Amp is an Amp regardless of the voltage. Now, if the same cable is in an engine space is has a recommend safe rating of 378.3A.
Perhaps on your end, compared to some vids I watch, I could actually hear Ty there, altho softer than other times. One of the girls (directors) might have to start demanding he wears a wireless fluffy.
@@Lana_Warwick a decent shotgun mic on top of the camera set to the correct levels would be more than fine. Or one of the many inexpensive lavs that records direct to the mic pack are great. Turn it on and forget it. No wireless. Sets levels. I’m a film editor sound mixer for features and docs Los Angeles and New York. I was listening on a $30k home theater that’s calibrated to Dolby specs and atmos. On a oled screen that’s calibrated. Average audio levels are -11 for this video. Most of CZcams stays pretty close to 0. Not great for dynamic range but it’s what they do. And there are many places where audio peaks there. So it’s just a mix thing. Levels. They could slap on some auto correcting plugins most editors have. Or a compressor. Or just listen to their videos on studio monitors not headphones. It’s sloppy. Lack of QCing. Normally they do okay. This video is just awful. I’d take it down and try again.
@@jspafford I'm old with industrial deafness, I use subs all the time, annoys me when some forget to add them. Some put their text overlay in the same spot, have to skip back, turn off subs, read it, go again. Sometimes there's audio interference, background noise etc, sub misinterprets, no idea what they said. Bit or research I found they can easily edit subs b4 upload. I advised a known channel of both above, response was kinda dilligaf, like they didn't have time. Content creators with 9to5's & much higher scribs seem to get it done. Guess it's possible without swims in clear ocean water, walks along the beach, naps under palm trees, few hours editing, time for sundowners 😉
As a laser designer myself (project laserscythe on thingiverse) you need to emphasize safety with that laser and the number of viewers you have. A 20w laser can reflect and instantly burn through your closed eyelid and retina without a light tight enclosure, and there Is a loooot of light bleedthrough from that laser orange surround. At a minimum you need to either have that thing inside a light tight enclosure, or be wearing appropriate safety glasses rated to whatever laser wavelength you buy. This is not optional. You can instantly ruin your sight from across a room. Forever. It only takes one small mistake. I feel it is incredibly irresponsible to just present these devices as fun easy tools with no safety concerns.
Ty what sort of man are you? Using instructions, I hope you just looked at them and didn’t actually read anything. My father in law never read an instruction and would rather cut once and then repair, no such thing as measure twice cut once in this house. 👍
Pretty fancy is an understatement. That's just so clean
I really hope that Lagoon are watching this, as your installation is much better than the factory fit!!!
Love the idea of having the on the negative side..
Ty does what every guy wishes he could do when he wants to make something. Just buy the coolest tool for the job!
You guys are badass. I am a professional boat builder and you are doing an excellent job!
meanwhile I'm sitting here watching this, wondering why I was feeling so accomplished hooking up a couple negative and positive bus bars to a Plastic cutting board, with fuses and switches, for LED under seat lights, Mood lighting and stern lights for my Pontoon boat! hahaha Great job!! looks amazing! Love your videos!!!
Ty, you mention glow in dark lettering being a good safety item. You can make all your label panels now with your laser cutter and then backfill the letters with a glowing the dark paint or a paint with glow pigment added. You can even get different colors. Etching the letters on the back of a thin clear panel, backfilling with paint then glueing the thin clear panel over a sheet of black will create a smooth switch panel surface that is more durable and easy to clean since the letters are protected. You can also apply vinyl graphics of hydro dipped graphics to the in side of thin clear outer layer. Just provides better protection but you do need to ensure a good deal between the layers so it’s basically water and you don’t get salt intrusion.
TY should consider a tool barge to tow behind the Leopard
I think you ought to write the "Press green button for 10 seconds.... " instructions on that panel. That is the kind of thing that someone could forget after 10 years.... Maybe even label the panel with a name/function? It is a pretty panel, and your explanation was fantastic!
Laser cutters and 3d printers are a DIY dream. Nice to see a nice clean electrical room. The AC will be nice I’m sure. Donate for Dream
awesome instruction...."Roll on one!" (Green Mile)
You amaze me with the breadth of significant skills that you have . Very impressive Tye and I appreciate the amount of explanation that you give. Makes me feel like I understand it all. Very much enjoy your Chanel 😊
Your channel just steadily gets better and better. Sooner than later you’ll be over 100k subs
Professor Ty with the glasses
Looks great, very professional looking setup
Very nice work. The Xtool laser will be useful. One observation is the 3 voltmeters should have over current protection (fuses) between the meters and the inverter positive inputs.
Frickin LAAAZEEER beams! I love it
That new panel setup looks amazing and very professionally done too. Even painting the switch black looks great and it looks like it was done at the factory. What was the paint you used for that job. I didn’t understand what you said in the video about what it was/is. I can empathize with you on working in the heat. We were boondocking in our Fifth wheel the last three days and it appears that our transfer switch quit outputting power from our generator and then everything stopped on the 110 side. We lost around $500 of food in the refrigerator and freezer, but a local friend had enough space for us to store some of our freezer items so we didn’t lose everything. This is our only home as we’re full time (since June 2022). I wish I knew enough about the solar setup like you apparently do. Regardless, very nice work on all that setup and the new components too.
Okay, damn that is nice. My OCD wanted you to make the plate a little longer so you could mount the power switch on the same level - but dang, that was a smart solution.
Yea I thought the same. Ya know what's gunna happen when he has time now hey?
It's like when you paint your own home, everyone says, wow you did a great job, but you can see all the crappy cut-ins.
Making great progress and one step closer to AC !! Yeah😎 love the movie outtake !!
Cool video! Things are coming together finally 🙌
Yes! Thank you!
Very impressive
Top job Ty! Im inspired to take some classes, because when I grow up,...😅☀️😎🤙🍻
Another awesome power video!
Thanks again!
Very cool video, waiting for the AC start blowing cold air
HHD
Awesome keep up the good work….😊
Very nice video. But the red switch is on top and the black switch is on the right. It will bother you with such nice work. I'm really looking forward to the sequel
Great video!
Love the laser cutter, never seen/considered that. Comparable cost to prep/coat pine, but much nicer finish. Pines more error friendly, but can swell & burn. Acrylic looks shit when scratched, but just cut another one. Love how ocd tidy your work is.
quality work !
The irony of the contrast in cable management between the home video equipment and the boat wiring is a little humorous.
Pretty sure they're in an AirBNB, there's no way Ty would allow that TV to be cabled like that in his own home :P
YooHoo! I'm so happy you'll B able 2 B cool. Stay safe ❤️
Impressive work as always... Get so much inspiration (and knowledge) from you guys.
So cool!
Wow!
Yeah tie you are so informative. It’s a pleasure watching you and how you work.
So nice of you, thanks!
Hey Dauntless Crew,
Great work, I love seeing the transformation you guys are making. The product link is broken for the X-Tool. I keep getting the Amazon Dog Error screen.
Keep up the great work, love having lunch every Sunday watching you guys.
Updated, try now
Great, thanks!
Ty's Tool Time
I am always looking for excuses for new tools!! Great video. How about the thin wires that run to your three voltage displays did you include any in-line fuses to protect them. If not they are fused at 500A They should have fuses rated to the gauge of that wire to prevent a fire risk.👍
Inside a boat like that I wouldn’t replace them with stainless…going forward use the stainless but guess depends on the moisture level in the cabin …
Cool, literally.... SOON!
🤞🏻
nice!
Amazing work! Tiny little detail here, but I noticed that the NEG and POS lead from the battery bank going into the lynx distributor is exposed and right in the center of the space. 29:22 I can easily see someone leaning in to pick something up and accidently shorting those to connections with a tool or a sweaty shirt. Maybe insulate one of the leads? But seriously very impressive setup.
Believe his ocd is far from finished in there. Consider the 48v bus covers under the seat.
Engrave your label into the acrilic,and pour in some epoxy would look great
Engrave from back, place small led/s, fill with epoxy 👍
Congrats Team :))
This was pretty much a „throwback-Sunday“ episode with the old tech. Will you switch to some smart system where everything is communicating via the bus (VE/CAN) in the future? I think you mentioned it a while back.
Everything will be networked and monitored on a Cerbo Touch 70
Two Thumbs up !!
amazing
Thank you! Cheers!
The resistor you use for discharge will be over 100 (200 F) degrees, you should mount it on a piece of metal with spacers so the metal is away from the acrylic, it is best with air all the way around the resistor.
He's precharging capacitors not balancing a battery bank. Most people just hold them in their hand when precharing manually.
Hi Ty, Please tell me more about DC Aircon, Thanks
Personally, the panel would look even better if you changed to black oxide stainless screws. You will not even see them. Used them on our helm and love them
Now you need a Cricut to cut vinyl so you don't have to paint it 🤣
Nice Job on the Panel! However, I think you need to go back and look at the video. When you pressed the button your displays were reading 5 . 3 volts not 53. When you switched the main then it jumped to 53 Which means there was still a lot of current flowing thru the resistor when you were holding the button. I would expect that if the inverters were fully charged there would be less current flow, and thus lower voltage drop across the pre charge resistor and it would be closer to 53 (while you were holding the button down). I guess you are lessening the amount of surge current, was 10% pre charge what you were shooting for or did I miss something?
The decimal point keeps jumping on those displays. I think I might need to get new ones.
@@SailingDauntless I was curious why a dial resistor wouldn't be used, slowly dial it up.
@@SailingDauntlessit did read 5.X several times when charging. I would've interested to know if that is real or not.
Another great episode, loving Dr Shocker aka Ty🤣🤣🤣🇦🇺
Glad you enjoyed it, thanks for watching!
Wow makes my system look like a toy! I am 99% 12v use. Inverter only does hot water when required. But love my LiFePo4, power for days.
I am more impressed by each episode and that I was able to help you in the direction of hardware. I don't recall seeing what your background is. It would be great if you could educate us as to how your electrical expertise was obtained
Thank you! My background is 2+ decades of construction and custom fabrication with an insatiable desire for learning and building new skills. AKA-- Nerd…
@@SailingDauntless I'm sure you mentioned previous being an off-grid consultant/installer?
Yea, that is my “real job”
Nice. I Have 4 battery banks with 4 BMS's so I turned of discharge on 3 and the 4th I set to discharge 1 amp. Then I powered on my inverters and turned on other 3 BMS's to discharge and adjusted the 4th. My BMS's can discharge 250 amps at 44-58V so I turned them down to 60 amps each. When I use 10kw from my 2 inverters I pull 2500 watts from each battery pack. My batteries never se over .4C and most of time they are at .1C. They never get hot or loose from heat loss.
Need to buy a house next to yours, so if I need a tool i'll trade a cup of sugar for some really cool stuff.. Frigg-in awesome goto guy ~~
Lol
I'm hoping the resistor won't burn out , it will get HOT so the acrylic is not the best mounting surface, the battleborn resister must have been a clue. Good luck but I think it's under engineered try the math 100w 500ohm check the voltage drop for the dissipation.
Yes, they do get hot with continuous operation, however this one will only have current running through it for a few seconds when we power up.
@@SailingDauntless until there's an error the resistor will almost definitely blow before the 50amp fuse nice work though 😁
Interesting. For my education, why not pre-charge around the POS switch?
He totally could have used the positive side switch and completely eliminated that expensive Blue Sea switch on the negative cable
Always great video:)) John 5:24
👍👍👍👍👍
Talk about the DC air condisoing. Is it 12, 24 or 48v?
Great video! Did you get the cabin modules tabbed and restored to the new hull sections yet? Electrics coming along!
We sure did! That was back earlier this year, all of the messy stuff inside should be done now (fingers crossed)
Getting there nice one👍
👍✅
Where is the sailing in sailing dauntless seems more like a tech page?
👍🏽
Ty - love the channel. One question on having 3 inverters, how is the output synchronised?
They are connected via cat6 and networked together in the backend software
Hi Ty, the size of your precharge resistor is too large. The precharge voltage (the voltage applied to the inverters) settles to a smidge above 5V, and doesn't increase further when holding the GO button for longer.
This is due to the inverter electronics drawing current (about 100mA, if I correctly saw the resistance of your shunt resistor, 50 Ohms).
When you switched on the negative switch, the inverter supplies all jumped to 52 (ish) volts. This implies that you are still ramming a very high amount of current into your inverter caps at the instance that you switch on the negative, because you applying an additional ~47V (52V - 5V) to the inverters. The caps are still being strained by this inrush current.
You will need to reduce the size of the precharge resistor. I can't suggest to you what size you should be using because I don't know what the minimum supply current is for the inverters.
I suggest that you 1st figure out what size resistor is needed to get the inverter precharged voltage to about 75% (the higher you can get it, the better) of your bus voltage, then you divide that resistance by 3 (for the 3 inverters) and replace your current resistor with this new value.
You probably won't need any form of heat sinking on the new, smaller resistor, if you select the same wattage as you currently have (don't reduce the physical size of the new resistor).
The downside of using "passive" resistors for this is the voltage drop across them, you will never get the caps to charge to your bus voltage while there is something else drawing current too.
That massive "shunt resistor" that you got from BattleBorn is in fact an "active" resistor, which uses transistors to charge your caps by limiting the maximum current that can flow into them. This form of precharging will get you to within 95% of your bus voltage.
Also, don't release the GO button before switching on the negative switch, keep pressing it while closing the switch, so the caps don't loose some of their charge before the circuit is closed.
Thanks for sharing your build, I'm thoroughly enjoying your journey.
Good catch! I was so focused on the filming and turning the system on that I missed the voltage difference. My brain didn’t even see the decimal point. I actually put a 500 Ohm resistor in by mistake. I have (what I believe is) the correct one on order. I also need to see if I can calibrate that middle display or if I need to replace it as its registering about .5v off. Thank you for the comment and for watching!
*Ty puts together thing
“It’s relatively well put together”
Lol
Isn’t the pre-charge supposed to get to near battery V? 29:28 shows 5.2V not 52V and leaves the inverters only a tenth charged. Looks like it needs a bigger charger resistor.
It’s actually 52.XX VDC, for some reason the decimal is showing up in the wrong spot.
@@SailingDauntless it shows 52V once the disconnect closes, sure. I’ve used those style displays and they don’t put the decimal wrong in my use, I’d check with a DMM that you are getting to 52V with the pre-charge. I think your reaching steady state at 5.2V
Definitely something odd there.
Random question - will y’all be at the Annapolis Boat Show in October?
Best china quality on the LCD voltage displays or a bad connection?
Hi Ty, I really do enjoy you guys and have from the beginning. You do great work. This is just a pure OCD question, at the end of the video when the system was booted up, two inverters were reading pretty much the same at 52.8 but one was at 53.3. Does that difference matter and I'm not really sure why there is a difference at all given that the battery banks come in via a BUS bar and singular cable. Is it in the inverter itself and will it be sorted when the Inverters communicate with each other via software?
Good question, the voltage is the same, unfortunately the meters aren’t very accurate 😕
Excellent video! I was just wondering how much space that laser thingy takes up. Also how many other large...ish tools can you buy before you run out of space?
Lucky he has a workshop hey? (Ep:128). It would pack back up in the box in came in. Altho cardboard & paper attract bugs onboard, better to store in something like a breathable bag (pillow case), laser protected in foam. Kim might have to make space in their bed 😆
You guys are the best
Is that not the same type of machine Linus tech tips refused to fire up due to it being dangerous to use? May be worth checking why that said that before using too much.
👍😎Awesome
how did you size the wire to the capacitor ?
500w divided by 48vdc (nominal) is 10.41A divide by 3 conductors with the longest wire run at 4’ @ 3.47A each nets a recommended wire size of .25mm2 or 24ga with a .33% voltage drop. I used 20ga (0.50mm2) for good measure.
I think you have the wrong size (500A) fuse in your system. That fuse should protect the wiring and 0000 Marine Wire can't handle 500Amps except at exceptionally short distances. Your system should be drawing at most 375Amps @ 48VDC which is still higher than 0000 can handle for long lengths. This is a problem I've been wrestling with on my 12V system (which I will have to upgrade to 48V in the near future).
This 4/0 single conductor 105C rated tinned copper 2100+ strand battery cable is rated (and approved by ABYC) at 455A outside of an engine space. The fuse will blow at aprox 110% of peak cable continuous duty of the cable. The voltage of the system is not relevant to the rated current, and Amp is an Amp regardless of the voltage. Now, if the same cable is in an engine space is has a recommend safe rating of 378.3A.
The link on Amazon for the X Tool, is not working. At least not for me.
Updated, try now
Ty, where'd you get the boss readers?
CVS!
:)
The link for xtool does not work.
Fixed! Check again
Good thing there are captions because the audio mix is so bad you can’t hear anything. @4:45
Perhaps on your end, compared to some vids I watch, I could actually hear Ty there, altho softer than other times. One of the girls (directors) might have to start demanding he wears a wireless fluffy.
@@Lana_Warwick a decent shotgun mic on top of the camera set to the correct levels would be more than fine. Or one of the many inexpensive lavs that records direct to the mic pack are great. Turn it on and forget it. No wireless. Sets levels. I’m a film editor sound mixer for features and docs Los Angeles and New York. I was listening on a $30k home theater that’s calibrated to Dolby specs and atmos. On a oled screen that’s calibrated. Average audio levels are -11 for this video. Most of CZcams stays pretty close to 0. Not great for dynamic range but it’s what they do. And there are many places where audio peaks there. So it’s just a mix thing. Levels. They could slap on some auto correcting plugins most editors have. Or a compressor. Or just listen to their videos on studio monitors not headphones. It’s sloppy. Lack of QCing. Normally they do okay. This video is just awful. I’d take it down and try again.
@@jspafford I'm old with industrial deafness, I use subs all the time, annoys me when some forget to add them.
Some put their text overlay in the same spot, have to skip back, turn off subs, read it, go again.
Sometimes there's audio interference, background noise etc, sub misinterprets, no idea what they said. Bit or research I found they can easily edit subs b4 upload.
I advised a known channel of both above, response was kinda dilligaf, like they didn't have time.
Content creators with 9to5's & much higher scribs seem to get it done. Guess it's possible without swims in clear ocean water, walks along the beach, naps under palm trees, few hours editing, time for sundowners 😉
As a laser designer myself (project laserscythe on thingiverse) you need to emphasize safety with that laser and the number of viewers you have. A 20w laser can reflect and instantly burn through your closed eyelid and retina without a light tight enclosure, and there Is a loooot of light bleedthrough from that laser orange surround. At a minimum you need to either have that thing inside a light tight enclosure, or be wearing appropriate safety glasses rated to whatever laser wavelength you buy. This is not optional. You can instantly ruin your sight from across a room. Forever. It only takes one small mistake. I feel it is incredibly irresponsible to just present these devices as fun easy tools with no safety concerns.
This channel is improperly named. It’s really “Ty the Tool Guy”© buys a boat, or two.
„Boat improvement“… 🤗
Ty what sort of man are you? Using instructions, I hope you just looked at them and didn’t actually read anything. My father in law never read an instruction and would rather cut once and then repair, no such thing as measure twice cut once in this house. 👍