Just did them yesterday, thanks so much for putting this up, its very helpful. I have a 2008 Canyon, one big difference between the years is the speed sensor is part of the hub and you have to be careful to take the entire wire harness thru the hub with it when you remove the assembly.
Don't forget to remove the lid on the brake fluid reservoir before compressing the piston. Also, after cleaning up the hub, don't forget to put anti-seize on the two adjoining surfaces before putting it back together.
Good enough video to convince me that someone else qualified by extensive experience performing such a laborious task on a 2005 GMC Canyon will do my next full front brake job....
i just replaced my son's wheel bearing assembly and rotor. Some how I put on the rotor backwards, i didn't realize you could do that. I could mount the caliber bracket, so now i have to take everything back off again. This is a great video, very good instruction.
I've checked several other video's and yours is by far the most comprehensive and sensible. For instance, if a mechanic isn't wearing gloves while working on a vehicle, I move right along, period. Thanks for the video. Great Job!
Thanks for the video! I had 4wd and had the axle nut just like you said. Didn't even need the air hammer to get it loose, seemed pretty clean. Didn't expect the job to require hub removal!
Ya its a bit annoying to get to especially just to do brakes. The design it like this for heavy duty applications (even if you look at tractor trailers) I would guess its to give it more durability and make it stronger
Thank you for the video, very helpful. Also, my gmc canyon Idles between the speed of 45mph - 50 mph only and when stopped, no idling but rpm sits very low. I changed throttle body and still does the same
Thanks a lot for this video. I've been struggling with getting my front rotor off. It's On there. I'll try the tap and rotate method and see what happens.
Nice detailed vid, also can be used if u need to change hub with bad sensor, only thing I wouldn’t do is use so much grease on the slide pins, just a light coating is needed and the grease for the clips should go under them, it is where the rust forms to jack up the clips, but this is one of the best detailed vids I’ve seen on this procedure
Great Video, One thing iv heard is, Open the break Fluid cap in engine compartment, to let the air out, for faster movement for the brake fluid when compression of pistions.
The ABS Sensors on both sides are pressed on the hub (R & L) for 4x4 versions in 2009. It's not an easy one little bolt removal and reinstall to change the ABS Sensor on 4 WD Models. The ABS Sensor has to be pressed onto the hub and the wires passed thru the splash guard and the replaced rotor.
Thanks for the instructions. You only called out the speed sensor socket size (8mm). Would have been nice to have called out all the other sizes, so we can stage those sockets. Maybe add them in the comments. Links above were great, too.
Good evening so I just got my truck back from the shop and I asked them to look at my front breaks and they said it would cost me over 1500 for parts and labor. And they told me they need to take out my axle and all this other stupid stuff. So my question to you is, is this the same on a 2009 Chevy Colorado manual transmission 4x4
I had the service manual but if you don't, you can simply look up what bolt you want to tighten and google will let you know. For example if you need to know the front brake caliper bolt torque, just search up the (year, make and model of your truck) and then (front caliper bolt torque spec) You will get different forums and sources of people have the manual and just want to help people out Hope this helps :)
Great video. One question. When you are opening the caliper piston should you not crack the cap on the brake fluid reservoir and also watch that you don’t spill out brake fluid. Through brake wear fluid may have been added which will become too much when you put new pads on.
I always check levels here and there just in general to make sure everything is good. In general you should never really have to add fluid cause it's a closed system. Itll go down a bit once the pads wear and itll go up once you retract the pistons. However you shouldn't add fluid everytime it goes below full. When you put new brakes in make sure it's right at the full line and just monitor from there ever couple of weeks.
From just looking at pictures online i can say the truck looks very similar. As long as it is rwd and not awd there should be very few differences but i cannot guarantee that its the same as my fathers truck in the video
Your supposed to torque every bolt on a vehicle but in all honesty for efficiency its not good for shops to do that or else things would take a lot longer to do. However they should be torque everything that keeps your car onto the road (such as anything to do with the wheels hubs or suspension) for safety and they should also torque anything that is a major mounting point (such as the bolts that hold the transmission to the engine) Other than that and a few other things you can just tighten snugly. Everything should be torqued regardless but in reality the mechanic world will never work like that lol
looks like a horrible dirty rusty vehicle under there is that what snow does to a vehicle or is there some other reason . If you went for a roadworthy with a vehicle like that in Australia they would certainly have there eyes open for faults ....good video thanks for posting
What a stupid design. I'll never drive one of these trucks. Check out Deboss Garage, he does a timing chain on one, and its a complete nightmare. Great video though!
If im not too late... just keep wacking at it itll come off eventually. If you can try to hammer it off to a point where you can stick the tip of a pry bar in between the hub and rotor and hammer it in. That method will help a lot. You can also try to work it back and fourth and spray some lubricant inside to help free it up. I forgot to do in in my video but put some anti- seize on the hub as well so it is easier to get off next time.
i have no idea. I assume it would be very similar and by just googling your truck and then brakes it looks like the same set up as my dads truck. Sorry for the late response
The speed sensor is different on my 07 Colorado. The speed sensor does not disconnect behind the hub you actually have to unplug it at the top of the wheel well and pull the entire cable out with the hub.
Hey so i didn't see your message because for some reason CZcams didn't send me a notification. But no you do not need to open your brake fluid reservoir. I will also be covering on how to do the rear drums in another video, we just haven't needed to change them just yet.
Telling me how to do my job when youre the one watching vids on how to change brakes lol im showing how to do the job using common tools like how I stated at the beginning of the vid. Not everyone is a mechanic and has a 4lbs hammer at home. I could show how to remove the hub using a pulling tool as well but that defeats the whole purpose doesnt it? Dont worry next time ill use my air tools as well to make you happy :)
@@christophervitale7147well buddy I am a40 year licensed auto body repairman I have work on more shit than you for sure. My buddy has one of those shit trucks and asked me to do brake job for his daughter to save her some 💰. And i was just taking a quick look because i know they have a fucked up hub assembly.If you don't have the knowledge or the right tools you shouldn't work on brakes i don't know any buddy that has a Torque bar that doesn't have a bigger hammer. Lol Mabe pull out you mechanics license and tell people that you are a real. If you want I can send you mine. Ontario license number auto body and collision damage repairer. 💔 its great you think you r helping people but you could be killing more.
@@vinceferraccioli4661 I have definitely helped people go look at the rest of the comments under this vid. I am a licensed 310T tech. I made this video in my first year working. as an apprentice. You're commenting complaining about a hammer size lol AGAIN ill explain.... ***THIS VID IS MADE FOR USING COMMON HOUSEHOLD TOOLS! *** Not everyone HAS 4lbs hammer but every house should have some sort of carpenter hammer. As a tech YOU should know that not everyone has access to tools or are mechanically inclined. This vid is not for you its for others.
![How To Swap to a Bigger/Newer Motor [04-12 Colorado Canyon & H3]](/img/n.gif)
Of all the videos on this subject...this is the best video so far...
This was the most complete time managed videos I've ever viewed. Thank you for your video!
Just did them yesterday, thanks so much for putting this up, its very helpful. I have a 2008 Canyon, one big difference between the years is the speed sensor is part of the hub and you have to be careful to take the entire wire harness thru the hub with it when you remove the assembly.
Don't forget to remove the lid on the brake fluid reservoir before compressing the piston. Also, after cleaning up the hub, don't forget to put anti-seize on the two adjoining surfaces before putting it back together.
Thank you for this video. I like your detail and pace.
Good enough video to convince me that someone else qualified by extensive experience performing such a laborious task on a 2005 GMC Canyon will do my next full front brake job....
i just replaced my son's wheel bearing assembly and rotor. Some how I put on the rotor backwards, i didn't realize you could do that. I could mount the caliber bracket, so now i have to take everything back off again. This is a great video, very good instruction.
I've checked several other video's and yours is by far the most comprehensive and sensible. For instance, if a mechanic isn't wearing gloves while working on a vehicle, I move right along, period. Thanks for the video. Great Job!
When I'm at work I get too much things in my eyes and scrapes on my hands so for me they are a must
What the fuck does having gloves on have do whit shit. ya babies were glove not to hurt there hand.
Thanks for the video! I had 4wd and had the axle nut just like you said. Didn't even need the air hammer to get it loose, seemed pretty clean. Didn't expect the job to require hub removal!
Ya its a bit annoying to get to especially just to do brakes. The design it like this for heavy duty applications (even if you look at tractor trailers) I would guess its to give it more durability and make it stronger
@@christophervitale7147 ya dumb on a little truck Gm money maker
Thank you for the video, very helpful. Also, my gmc canyon Idles between the speed of 45mph - 50 mph only and when stopped, no idling but rpm sits very low. I changed throttle body and still does the same
Thanks a lot for this video. I've been struggling with getting my front rotor off. It's On there. I'll try the tap and rotate method and see what happens.
Thank you bro
The video helped me change the rotors on my colorado
Fairly simple process great guidance 👍👍
Thanks! Such a detailed video. It was a great help. Cheers
Nice detailed vid, also can be used if u need to change hub with bad sensor, only thing I wouldn’t do is use so much grease on the slide pins, just a light coating is needed and the grease for the clips should go under them, it is where the rust forms to jack up the clips, but this is one of the best detailed vids I’ve seen on this procedure
Nice video man, I really enjoyed it. I will use it tomorrow to put on my new rotor and hub bearing assembly
Great Video, One thing iv heard is, Open the break Fluid cap in engine compartment, to let the air out, for faster movement for the brake fluid when compression of pistions.
It wont really make the fluid move faster but might make it a bit easier to compress the pistons
Antiseize on the hub bearing flange would make it easier to disassemble next time.
Great video....first video I've seen that shows 4wh drive...which I have.. thanks
awesome video just saved me $500
Thank you, very professional and thorough.
Almost 3 years ago and comments like this still make me smile. Thank you.
The ABS Sensors on both sides are pressed on the hub (R & L) for 4x4 versions in 2009. It's not an easy one little bolt removal and reinstall to change the ABS Sensor on 4 WD Models. The ABS Sensor has to be pressed onto the hub and the wires passed thru the splash guard and the replaced rotor.
You mean that I can not hammer the hub out like he did in this video on my 4×4 colorado?...
OMG 4x4 is a nightmare. Not simple at all. The hub and wheel bearing are connected. You need to work with spline shaft.
Thanks for the video it was very helpful
Quick question: was there no abs sensor/wire??
Pro tip! Squirt some wd40 or rust breaker than start tapping. So when you tap and it breaks loose a little that wd40 will seep in. Alot less beating.
Thanks for the video.....it helped a lot.
Thanks for the instructions. You only called out the speed sensor socket size (8mm). Would have been nice to have called out all the other sizes, so we can stage those sockets.
Maybe add them in the comments.
Links above were great, too.
Ill try to include the sizes im using but the only reason i havent is because bolts get changed out over time so it might not even be the same size.
Thanks for the reply@@christophervitale7147! Changed front disc pads and your advice was excellent. Saved me a lot of time.
it's the ones that fit. There beside the other ones in the socket set
Caliper bolts 13 mm.
Caliper bracket bolts 21 mm.
Brake Rotor mounting bolts 17 mm.
Hub Assembly/Steering Knuckle bolts 15 mm.
Really nice walk through, well done. Thanks
no problem
It's been years since I owned my Canyon...I still want to fight the engineer that designed the front brakes
Good evening so I just got my truck back from the shop and I asked them to look at my front breaks and they said it would cost me over 1500 for parts and labor. And they told me they need to take out my axle and all this other stupid stuff. So my question to you is, is this the same on a 2009 Chevy Colorado manual transmission 4x4
wow good job when can i drop off my 08 gmc canyon
Whenever you want lol. Just to let you know i charge $200/h ;)
Look at the difference The 4 WD part diameter fits around the wheel hub. Good wrenching everyone!!
No problem and thank you for replying
Excellent helpful video. Anyone know why GM designed it like this?
Make you take it to dealership
Yes , it's an a policy by modern , greedy corporations called " EF the customer ! " .
Nice, this looks easy, I need to get myself a torc wrench. How do you know what torc each bolt needs to be?
I had the service manual but if you don't, you can simply look up what bolt you want to tighten and google will let you know.
For example if you need to know the front brake caliper bolt torque, just search up the (year, make and model of your truck) and then (front caliper bolt torque spec)
You will get different forums and sources of people have the manual and just want to help people out
Hope this helps :)
Thanks very goooood
Great video, thank you!
What are the sizes of all the sockets you used
Good video very detail. good job👍🏻
Very helpful
Is this the same for the 4x4 version of the truck?
should be very similar. only thing different should be that you would have to remove the axle nut which would be in the center of the hub.
my bolts holding on the caliper bracket are so rusted, they have lost a lot of their form. They are frozen on there. Perhaps i can die grind them off.
Great video. One question. When you are opening the caliper piston should you not crack the cap on the brake fluid reservoir and also watch that you don’t spill out brake fluid. Through brake wear fluid may have been added which will become too much when you put new pads on.
I always check levels here and there just in general to make sure everything is good. In general you should never really have to add fluid cause it's a closed system. Itll go down a bit once the pads wear and itll go up once you retract the pistons. However you shouldn't add fluid everytime it goes below full. When you put new brakes in make sure it's right at the full line and just monitor from there ever couple of weeks.
Very helpful, thanks man
Put some anti seize / grease on the hub lip and it will save you or the future owner some grief and not require much of a beating to remove.
Very nice video good job
Great video
What about the brake fluid, do you have to bleed them and how is that done my truck is 2011 GMC Canyon 4x4
you for got mention that you'll need a 36mm socket to remove the hub
Thats only if you have all wheel drive
What size C clamp should i use?
The brakes do t just slide in what am I doing wrong the fucking clip has a secondary flat thats in the ways pushing it in.
So I noticed you didn't bleed the breaks for air after. Is there any need to?
Nope, only if you are changing the fluid or any part of the brake system that will allow air into it such as a brake line or caliper :)
Is it the same thing for a 2012 gmc canyon?
From just looking at pictures online i can say the truck looks very similar. As long as it is rwd and not awd there should be very few differences but i cannot guarantee that its the same as my fathers truck in the video
Why do shops use air wrench’s and don’t use torque wrenches?
Your supposed to torque every bolt on a vehicle but in all honesty for efficiency its not good for shops to do that or else things would take a lot longer to do. However they should be torque everything that keeps your car onto the road (such as anything to do with the wheels hubs or suspension) for safety and they should also torque anything that is a major mounting point (such as the bolts that hold the transmission to the engine) Other than that and a few other things you can just tighten snugly. Everything should be torqued regardless but in reality the mechanic world will never work like that lol
looks like a horrible dirty rusty vehicle under there is that what snow does to a vehicle or is there some other reason . If you went for a roadworthy with a vehicle like that in Australia they would certainly have there eyes open for faults ....good video thanks for posting
Not so much the snow but the salt they lay down to melt the snow... cant keep a nice car clean in Canada unless you store it during winter
What a stupid design. I'll never drive one of these trucks. Check out Deboss Garage, he does a timing chain on one, and its a complete nightmare. Great video though!
Having trouble hammering the rotor and hub off
If im not too late... just keep wacking at it itll come off eventually. If you can try to hammer it off to a point where you can stick the tip of a pry bar in between the hub and rotor and hammer it in. That method will help a lot. You can also try to work it back and fourth and spray some lubricant inside to help free it up. I forgot to do in in my video but put some anti- seize on the hub as well so it is easier to get off next time.
Hi! Is it the same torques on a AWD 2010?
Good work, Is this the same job for an 06 Colorado?
i have no idea. I assume it would be very similar and by just googling your truck and then brakes it looks like the same set up as my dads truck. Sorry for the late response
The speed sensor is different on my 07 Colorado. The speed sensor does not disconnect behind the hub you actually have to unplug it at the top of the wheel well and pull the entire cable out with the hub.
Did you by any chance open the brake oil cap? Do you even have too? Also could you do a video of the rear break drums in the future.
Hey so i didn't see your message because for some reason CZcams didn't send me a notification. But no you do not need to open your brake fluid reservoir. I will also be covering on how to do the rear drums in another video, we just haven't needed to change them just yet.
You didn’t show what a pain the clips are to hold when putting the pads in
Size of the damn nuts on the hub???
Captive rotors suck! Shame on GM!!!!!
Jjllkj
Stupid design.
Man use a bigger hammer
Telling me how to do my job when youre the one watching vids on how to change brakes lol im showing how to do the job using common tools like how I stated at the beginning of the vid. Not everyone is a mechanic and has a 4lbs hammer at home. I could show how to remove the hub using a pulling tool as well but that defeats the whole purpose doesnt it? Dont worry next time ill use my air tools as well to make you happy :)
@@christophervitale7147well buddy I am a40 year licensed auto body repairman I have work on more shit than you for sure. My buddy has one of those shit trucks and asked me to do brake job for his daughter to save her some 💰. And i was just taking a quick look because i know they have a fucked up hub assembly.If you don't have the knowledge or the right tools you shouldn't work on brakes i don't know any buddy that has a Torque bar that doesn't have a bigger hammer. Lol
Mabe pull out you mechanics license and tell people that you are a real. If you want I can send you mine. Ontario license number auto body and collision damage repairer. 💔 its great you think you r helping people but you could be killing more.
@@vinceferraccioli4661 I have definitely helped people go look at the rest of the comments under this vid. I am a licensed 310T tech. I made this video in my first year working. as an apprentice. You're commenting complaining about a hammer size lol AGAIN ill explain.... ***THIS VID IS MADE FOR USING COMMON HOUSEHOLD TOOLS! *** Not everyone HAS 4lbs hammer but every house should have some sort of carpenter hammer. As a tech YOU should know that not everyone has access to tools or are mechanically inclined. This vid is not for you its for others.