I had the privilege of learning these things from my late father who was a tool and die maker. I have made quite a few taps to cut bastard threads from old drill bits. When I go to a machinery auction I often buy a 5 gallon bucket full of broken or rusty drill bits for not much more than scrap price for such projects. If I may. Please exercise care when working around a lathe or milling machine with synthetic fiber shirts, and any long sleeve shirts. The synthetic material will stretch and not tear like cotton, dragging you into the machine.
Really awesome work, that drill is crazy tough. Looks like the flute angle is about 45 degrees, which (I think) gives the highest torsional stiffness. I didn't notice any taper applied while the flutes were being cut; often times the tool-maker will reduce the depth of flutes the closer to the shank in order to increase longitudinal strength and stiffness, and give unbroken chips a better exit (although it can pinch Chip's exit as the drill goes deeper). Really fascinating watching your work. I like the use of the grinder/ball-mill coupled with lathe. Nice to see you covering the ways whilst the grinder is running (that nasty aluminum oxide accelerates wear on surfaces it lands on). I'm now one of your many subscribers!
After all it's Christmas, so another Sub here. I am old and Crusty, a hobbyist, but you young my have gotten my attention! Beat in 2024, Bear, in TX. Retired Street Rod Builder / Hobbyist Machinist.
When i was serving my time as a toolmaker in the early sixties we where taught to make small tools as well as the larger press tools but tools are so cheap and plentiful today that special cutters of all sorts are only made by a dedicated few who wish to keep the skills alive great to see.
One good practice that will prevent breaking your drills in that type of set-up is to utilize your t-slots. Most quality milling tables have precision t-slots so I have a few different types. 1" wide and the depth of the slot plus 1/2" Proud of the table and a 1/4" thread in the center of the block, and another identical set but the tap is at an angle so the protruding screw will guide the workplace towards the table and the side that is the datum edge usually does not get clamped properly. Another set that is the width of you t- slots minus the head thickness of a 1/4" jex head bolt that has been faced on the lathe to remove the grade stamp and ensure a flat surface and you put the outside edge of your blocks towards the clamping area desired amd your loosen your bolt heads which makes them press the outside edge against the t-slots. I always tune up my machines by removing the gibs, cleaning the working areas, check for scraping depth on the gibs and wear patterns and if needed remachine them so you have full friction contact and when the table is in full left position, use a magnetic base and a 0.0001"( tenths) dial test indicator to measure the amount of play. ⛔Always use your plunge indicator to measure all of the 6 locations measurements on the X, Y, Z axis. I always fix Z first because everything must be perpendicular to the table. Gib clearance creates sag and if your going to do a indicate your t_slots for parralelness and perpendiculariry the tables gotta be zero with the lock in off position but depending on the shape of the pressure block you might have alot of travel, I like to make mine have no more than 1/4 movement of the allowable swing range. Once you replace the cleaned, scraped, oiled gibs and have no more than 0.001" sag with the locking lever in full off position, then you can actually measure how much the table or clamped workpiece shifts when you apply Moore force to the lock and you will know your machine alot better and when all 3 locks are engaged from a dead zero indication of a verticpe pin, you will notice the difference in location from the unlocked position, but the most it will be out, is only 0.001" in any direction which is alot better than most shops machines, even new ones can be set wrong. You will need to clamp a long bar facing outward to measu5 the knee's sag and obviously a lifting device and 9f your lifting the front of the machine and only got 0.001" and there's not too much friction for manual turning, your good to go. All axis done and now indicate t-slots lengrhways and vertically to see if the underside has swagwd out a bit over the years and then measure each slot width with gage blocks amdake them all the same. Document your 'Y' position from your digital readout, or if your using your graduated collar for each side of the slot but ALWAYS ELIMINATE YOUR BACKLASH FIRST. I always use the direction from negative to positive on the digital readout or lowest to highest on the collars, it's also a good way to calibrate your collars or readout if your dimensions are different between them both Thats another reason why gib maintainence and head perpendiculariry are paramount to true squarness and alot less having to grind the block square for precision jobs. You will also notice no wandering of the table while taking heavier cuts, Fly-cutting and even climbing doesn't grab and jump as much and just a slight bit of pressure on the lock will solve that. Ok Use one of those blocks in the slot opposite the side your clamo is on and if your drill grabs the workplace will not have anywhere to go Because the block is inside the tslot, your force is down from the drill and the other end is clamped, bit if it's a large workpiece and larger tools or heavier cuts than more datum blocks and top clamps to prevent moving. Rigidity is key to every setup, and to the accuracy, repeatability, safety, and it also promotes longer tool life. This will be my 40th year in the manufacturing industry, specifically Tool & Die making, - raw dies , prog dies, hand transfer, in die tapping, deep draw, all the ones used in automotive, aircraft, military, and medical. Mold Making, Aluminum Die Cast, Blow Molding, Precision Prototype Machines, R&D, Preventitive Maintenance, Trouble Shooting, Cad design and build, Mig, Tig, Oxy/Acet, stick welding. Harmonic Balancing and Precision Machining for Xtra large mining equipment. So I been all around the industry to keep myself challenged. I like to meet others who are questing for skills and knowledge. Anyone who wants tips I might have for their specific job, don't be shy to shout out. Make sure you have all the tools necessary to accurately perform your duties and processes amd as time goes on you will have a small shop in your tool boxes and cabinets that reduce your wandering time in the shop and those are the times we forgot to do something and slip up and those add to loses for the boss and you won't get the se raises as if you were more efficient. Don't buy cheap tools unless there for butcher work. The fractional, letter, and # drill sets that I bought iny first year apprenticeship were SKF Dormer drills from Germany and they cost me $700, and I still have and use 75% of the original drills because I don't burn the tips out, or lend out to other people. That's what your duplicates are for. 9ts good to have a set that are already ground flat bottom so you don't always have to use an endmill to flat bottom the hole and matching sizes of endmill to drill size (unevenly sharpened drills will cut bigger) so it's a good idea to fill your boxes with the tools to make life easier. Custom tools are the best because you make them specific and hopefully multi purpose. OK I'll shut up now, and soon I'm gonna gather some of my creations and share them with Y'all. ☮️♾️✝️
Hey there. Excellent job on everything. So, aside from the satisfaction you get from creating these, my guess is that they'd be cheaper to just go buy them? Don't get me wrong, if I had a lathe, I'd never buy a nut, bolt, screw, cabinet handles, etc. Basically, anything you could dish out of a chunk of metal, I'd at least attempt making it first. With that said, it wouldn't progress beyond a hobby. Having the skill YOU have, makes YOUR time on a mill or lathe, worth much more than mine would. Thanks for sharing this with us. Subbing right now.
To Mastermind: Good to see that you are able to use your nice lace. This makes Kraftsmen like me jealous- I would love to have a machine like yours. Good on ya that you know to use your hands, and have the surrounding to do so, nice work! To the guys shaking their heads and moaning all that work for just..... What if its a Friday in Europe and your drillbits cracks- no matter how you try- there is no spare you can get hold of- what so ever. So you gotta choice: Invest all that work but you can finish an urgent job on this weekend, or give up and tell them and yourself there was nothing you could have done to get it done? Thumbs up!
It's really quite a beautiful product in the end, having and demonstrating this art is not only honors your late father, but also is at the heart of what it is to be a machinist/tool-maker (rather than a consumer who has no choice but MUST buy from someone else).
I like the home made tools, and repairs that were made...i would bet they are of higher quality than what can be found commercially...some shod consider the performance, and we talking repeatable performance...this should draw cudos...especially liked the DIY heat treatment...good job!
I'm new to the field diy hobbyist, there's just something about precision engineering the tolerances in these peace's are amazing and the machines to get them there ,mind blowing
I hope the rest of the friends will understand the issue in this simple way and not just look for the economic cost and economic measurement thanks my friend🙏🙏🙏🙏👍
Please continue sir, and please ignore the haters...some have no value in the fact that this whole thing...your presentation, and the positive comments contain all thats needed for others to learn almost everything in a safe creation that yelds repeat-use tools of high quality.
To harden tool steel again it has to be specifically at a certain temperature, cherry red heat, and annealed at a straw coloured heat! I do it this way regular! - I was taught as an Apprentice Engineer under a toolmaker.
Well done my friend, good job but there is too much cutting on the drill bit quite simply because you should not sharpen with the grindstone starting from the back of the lip towards the front, you have to do the opposite, start from the front and with a slight rotation finish at the back of the lip just so as not to make heeled the cup, sorry for my English but I am French.
It would be nice to see you check the dimensions of the HOLES! Because I know the holes are not even close to the dimensions they are supposed to be. Just one of the drills you made, when you used it to drill out the center of the steel, flexed a 100 thou when it contacted the work surface.
Tf! Ofcourse the bit is breaking when your workpiece is sliding around secure your goddamn workpiece and the problem is solved!!! But this pretty nice tool!
Good job but it cost you more to make that than to buy it but at least your skilled enough to do it!! 1/4 turn forward and 1/2 a turn back works best when hand tapping. I'm sore there's more drag on that bit than a regular tap that's been form ground with the proper relief angles.. Nice video Bro!!
Like it came from the store. I unfortunately do not own an acetylebne torch to heat the drill bit that hot. They pulled MAPP gas off the market so it makes it difficult.
It is true, my friend, but the purpose of making and making this tool is something else, which you will understand if you read the comments of other friends
should make a drillbit holder that engages the spiral so you can very accurately grind it and not grind too far and ruin the cutting edge with low grit sandpaper belt i always grinded my drills, i would adjust the metal plate accordingly to a plate i had grinded at the right angle, i could grind many drillbits in very short time with about 90-95% success rate if its totally messed up i would insert in hand-drill and counter-clockwise grind it on the belt then take it out and grind it flat, remove the excess metal on the backside i prefer to leave the finish with a very flat grinding rather than rounded, it seems stronger but it can be hard to guesstimate the attachments where you do a swinging motion and press drill into the grinding mechanic sucks compared to doing by hand- because you have little control and drillbits vary in lenght so its impractical. we need something thats adjustable easily. biggest obstacle is not grinding the drillbit too far and making it the same as when you grind it using a hand drill
Another case for you: I need a tap for repairing a stripped thread, for example, M16, 5. Pitch 2mm. Where can I order one, what are the delivery times, and how much will it cost?
Before placing the thermal bricks, the inside is also heated, and then I heat the outside so that the heat inside disappears later, and it is almost efficient, my good friend.
My goal in this video is to show the knowledge and sometimes easy techniques of this work and enjoy doing the work In any case, thank you very much for watching and commenting
مته را نباید حرارت بدهی،آلیاژش ضعیف میشه و هنگام چرخیدن،لبه ها زود کُل میشه.اگر در تصویر میبینی که کُل نمیشه بخاطر اینه که بادست میچرخوندش و دور پایین هس،ولی اگر با دریل،حتی بادور پایین دریل بچرخه،زود لبه کُل میشه
wow amazing.... 👏👏
Thanks for watching🙏🙏💐👍
and i subscribe this chanell ..
My thougts exactly.
I had the privilege of learning these things from my late father who was a tool and die maker. I have made quite a few taps to cut bastard threads from old drill bits. When I go to a machinery auction I often buy a 5 gallon bucket full of broken or rusty drill bits for not much more than scrap price for such projects.
If I may. Please exercise care when working around a lathe or milling machine with synthetic fiber shirts, and any long sleeve shirts. The synthetic material will stretch and not tear like cotton, dragging you into the machine.
Really awesome work, that drill is crazy tough. Looks like the flute angle is about 45 degrees, which (I think) gives the highest torsional stiffness.
I didn't notice any taper applied while the flutes were being cut; often times the tool-maker will reduce the depth of flutes the closer to the shank in order to increase longitudinal strength and stiffness, and give unbroken chips a better exit (although it can pinch Chip's exit as the drill goes deeper).
Really fascinating watching your work. I like the use of the grinder/ball-mill coupled with lathe. Nice to see you covering the ways whilst the grinder is running (that nasty aluminum oxide accelerates wear on surfaces it lands on).
I'm now one of your many subscribers!
Your presence in our company makes me proud, my friend, and I am very happy that you enjoyed the video Wishing you the best
Thank you very much my friend for your useful information and good comment
After all it's Christmas, so another Sub here. I am old and Crusty, a hobbyist, but you young my have gotten my attention! Beat in 2024, Bear, in TX. Retired Street Rod Builder / Hobbyist Machinist.
🙏🙏🙏👍👍💐
When i was serving my time as a toolmaker in the early sixties we where taught to make small tools as well as the larger press tools but tools are so cheap and plentiful today that special cutters of all sorts are only made by a dedicated few who wish to keep the skills alive great to see.
Thank you my good friend and I am very glad that you enjoyed it🙏🙏💐👍
Dudes got some super fast hands when tapping and screwing in bolts.
One good practice that will prevent breaking your drills in that type of set-up is to utilize your t-slots. Most quality milling tables have precision t-slots so I have a few different types.
1" wide and the depth of the slot plus 1/2" Proud of the table and a 1/4" thread in the center of the block, and another identical set but the tap is at an angle so the protruding screw will guide the workplace towards the table and the side that is the datum edge usually does not get clamped properly.
Another set that is the width of you t- slots minus the head thickness of a 1/4" jex head bolt that has been faced on the lathe to remove the grade stamp and ensure a flat surface and you put the outside edge of your blocks towards the clamping area desired amd your loosen your bolt heads which makes them press the outside edge against the t-slots.
I always tune up my machines by removing the gibs, cleaning the working areas, check for scraping depth on the gibs and wear patterns and if needed remachine them so you have full friction contact and when the table is in full left position, use a magnetic base and a 0.0001"( tenths) dial test indicator to measure the amount of play.
⛔Always use your plunge indicator to measure all of the 6 locations measurements on the X, Y, Z axis.
I always fix Z first because everything must be perpendicular to the table.
Gib clearance creates sag and if your going to do a indicate your t_slots for parralelness and perpendiculariry the tables gotta be zero with the lock in off position but depending on the shape of the pressure block you might have alot of travel, I like to make mine have no more than 1/4 movement of the allowable swing range.
Once you replace the cleaned, scraped, oiled gibs and have no more than 0.001" sag with the locking lever in full off position, then you can actually measure how much the table or clamped workpiece shifts when you apply Moore force to the lock and you will know your machine alot better and when all 3 locks are engaged from a dead zero indication of a verticpe pin, you will notice the difference in location from the unlocked position, but the most it will be out, is only 0.001" in any direction which is alot better than most shops machines, even new ones can be set wrong.
You will need to clamp a long bar facing outward to measu5 the knee's sag and obviously a lifting device and 9f your lifting the front of the machine and only got 0.001" and there's not too much friction for manual turning, your good to go.
All axis done and now indicate t-slots lengrhways and vertically to see if the underside has swagwd out a bit over the years and then measure each slot width with gage blocks amdake them all the same.
Document your 'Y' position from your digital readout, or if your using your graduated collar for each side of the slot but ALWAYS ELIMINATE YOUR BACKLASH FIRST.
I always use the direction from negative to positive on the digital readout or lowest to highest on the collars, it's also a good way to calibrate your collars or readout if your dimensions are different between them both
Thats another reason why gib maintainence and head perpendiculariry are paramount to true squarness and alot less having to grind the block square for precision jobs.
You will also notice no wandering of the table while taking heavier cuts, Fly-cutting and even climbing doesn't grab and jump as much and just a slight bit of pressure on the lock will solve that.
Ok
Use one of those blocks in the slot opposite the side your clamo is on and if your drill grabs the workplace will not have anywhere to go Because the block is inside the tslot, your force is down from the drill and the other end is clamped, bit if it's a large workpiece and larger tools or heavier cuts than more datum blocks and top clamps to prevent moving.
Rigidity is key to every setup, and to the accuracy, repeatability, safety, and it also promotes longer tool life.
This will be my 40th year in the manufacturing industry, specifically Tool & Die making, - raw dies , prog dies, hand transfer, in die tapping, deep draw, all the ones used in automotive, aircraft, military, and medical.
Mold Making, Aluminum Die Cast, Blow Molding, Precision Prototype Machines, R&D, Preventitive Maintenance, Trouble Shooting, Cad design and build, Mig, Tig, Oxy/Acet, stick welding. Harmonic Balancing and Precision Machining for Xtra large mining equipment.
So I been all around the industry to keep myself challenged. I like to meet others who are questing for skills and knowledge.
Anyone who wants tips I might have for their specific job, don't be shy to shout out.
Make sure you have all the tools necessary to accurately perform your duties and processes amd as time goes on you will have a small shop in your tool boxes and cabinets that reduce your wandering time in the shop and those are the times we forgot to do something and slip up and those add to loses for the boss and you won't get the se raises as if you were more efficient.
Don't buy cheap tools unless there for butcher work.
The fractional, letter, and # drill sets that I bought iny first year apprenticeship were SKF Dormer drills from Germany and they cost me $700, and I still have and use 75% of the original drills because I don't burn the tips out, or lend out to other people. That's what your duplicates are for. 9ts good to have a set that are already ground flat bottom so you don't always have to use an endmill to flat bottom the hole and matching sizes of endmill to drill size (unevenly sharpened drills will cut bigger) so it's a good idea to fill your boxes with the tools to make life easier.
Custom tools are the best because you make them specific and hopefully multi purpose.
OK I'll shut up now, and soon I'm gonna gather some of my creations and share them with Y'all.
☮️♾️✝️
I really like the idea of using lathe as a makeshift grinder to sharpen the drillbit. It seems such simple and yet it has a lot of potential
Exactly right, my friend
Hey there.
Excellent job on everything.
So, aside from the satisfaction you get from creating these, my guess is that they'd be cheaper to just go buy them?
Don't get me wrong, if I had a lathe, I'd never buy a nut, bolt, screw, cabinet handles, etc. Basically, anything you could dish out of a chunk of metal, I'd at least attempt making it first. With that said, it wouldn't progress beyond a hobby.
Having the skill YOU have, makes YOUR time on a mill or lathe, worth much more than mine would.
Thanks for sharing this with us.
Subbing right now.
🙏🙏🙏👏👍❤️
What a master machinist. Lovely to watch.
Glad you enjoyed it🙏🙏🙏👍❤️
MASHA.ALLAH.GOOD.WORK
To Mastermind: Good to see that you are able to use your nice lace. This makes Kraftsmen like me jealous- I would love to have a machine like yours. Good on ya that you know to use your hands, and have the surrounding to do so, nice work!
To the guys shaking their heads and moaning all that work for just..... What if its a Friday in Europe and your drillbits cracks- no matter how you try- there is no spare you can get hold of- what so ever. So you gotta choice: Invest all that work but you can finish an urgent job on this weekend, or give up and tell them and yourself there was nothing you could have done to get it done? Thumbs up!
Thank you so much my good friend🙏👍👍👍
So right
what's a LACE ???
Lathe, possibly a bad translation.@@MrSnookerballs
That would be the only valid reason , a last resort to finish a project with no way to source the tool in a timely manner.
It's really quite a beautiful product in the end, having and demonstrating this art is not only honors your late father, but also is at the heart of what it is to be a machinist/tool-maker (rather than a consumer who has no choice but MUST buy from someone else).
I like the home made tools, and repairs that were made...i would bet they are of higher quality than what can be found commercially...some shod consider the performance, and we talking repeatable performance...this should draw cudos...especially liked the DIY heat treatment...good job!
thank you my friend🙏👍
Beautiful work young men. Too notch video.😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊
Thank you so much🙏🙏🙏👍
Impressive which can be implemented in other areas.
I'm new to the field diy hobbyist, there's just something about precision engineering the tolerances in these peace's are amazing and the machines to get them there ,mind blowing
And peace be with you
It's the passion that matters.
Not the time or the money
I hope the rest of the friends will understand the issue in this simple way and not just look for the economic cost and economic measurement thanks my friend🙏🙏🙏🙏👍
Please continue sir, and please ignore the haters...some have no value in the fact that this whole thing...your presentation, and the positive comments contain all thats needed for others to learn almost everything in a safe creation that yelds repeat-use tools of high quality.
🙏🙏🙏❤️🌹
Some great machinist skills that I will have next life may be. Excellent job!
Wow, thanks!👍🙏
Sometimes you just can't buy the tool you need
I find it amazing how its possible to soften and re-harden the steel
Try it my friend😉
To harden tool steel again it has to be specifically at a certain temperature, cherry red heat, and annealed at a straw coloured heat! I do it this way regular! - I was taught as an Apprentice Engineer under a toolmaker.
👍
If I had these tools and the skills and experience to use them effectively, I would be SOOOOOO happy. 😉😊
You and me both!
Good luck my friend
dude you don't need to buy them in the store you are making it yourself that is Awesome.
Thank you my good friend and I am very glad that you enjoyed it
Well done my friend, good job but there is too much cutting on the drill bit quite simply because you should not sharpen with the grindstone starting from the back of the lip towards the front, you have to do the opposite, start from the front and with a slight rotation finish at the back of the lip just so as not to make heeled the cup, sorry for my English but I am French.
Thanks for the tips!🙏
Excellent. It may seem like a waste of time but those skills are cross applicable and will come in handy. Who knows what the future may bring.
👍👍👍👍🙏❤️
It would be nice to see you check the dimensions of the HOLES! Because I know the holes are not even close to the dimensions they are supposed to be. Just one of the drills you made, when you used it to drill out the center of the steel, flexed a 100 thou when it contacted the work surface.
Excellent video! :)
You don't have to heat it until it's white-hot to harden it, a little less will also do.
Thanks for the tip!🙏
Great work dude you are awesome sir which brand lathe machine if you used please tell me
AFM
Poland
@@Mastermind- oh that's great 👍
This is a brilliant system for making a helical flute tap! Do you temper the hardened finished Tap, or use it dead hard? Chris B.
It will definitely relief and temper and then it can be used, my friend, and I understand, unfortunately, I did not put this in the video
Absolutely stunningly beautiful art
Thank you so much🙏👍
You have a nice setup there.👍👍
Yes, thanks👍👍👍
Tf! Ofcourse the bit is breaking when your workpiece is sliding around secure your goddamn workpiece and the problem is solved!!! But this pretty nice tool!
Interesting nice work
Thanks for the visit🙏🙏👍👍
Good job but it cost you more to make that than to buy it but at least your skilled enough to do it!!
1/4 turn forward and 1/2 a turn back works best when hand tapping.
I'm sore there's more drag on that bit than a regular tap that's been form ground with the proper relief angles..
Nice video Bro!!
Thank you so much bro🙏👍
Very Clever well done make them all the way to 50mm again well good Machine Skills 👏 👍
Wow, thanks!🙏🙏🙏👍
Lot of work to make a tap, I've made from drill rod before, old school 👍.
I just turn broken drills into spots/chamfer tools, easy to grind by hand.
Great idea
Very nice, impressive
Glad you like it!🙏👍👍
Muito bom!!!!
Você é um ótimo profissional!!!
Excelente!
🙏🙏🙏👍🌹
22:45
"Ok. So hes going to be brazing the 2 together?"
*flashbang welding*
Great work my guy 👌
Thanks for the visit🙏🙏🙏👍
With the price of a decent tap today, providing you can find one, I'm Canadian and my cousin is basically Chinese this is interesting.
Work and filming is excellent - would though be nice with a bit more information about which type of steel you use for instance.
Great suggestion!🙏🙏🙏
Very cool set of skills. Awesome
Thank you very much🙏🙏👍👍
Super jest to wiertwo zrobione pozdrawiam serdecznie 👍👍👍👍
🙏🙏🙏💐
It's a very great tool.It's a good tool. I cheer for you.❤❤❤❤❤
Thank you very much!🙏🙏👍
Like it came from the store. I unfortunately do not own an acetylebne torch to heat the drill bit that hot. They pulled MAPP gas off the market so it makes it difficult.
Good Sir you are an inspiration!! I will never buy a tap again!!!! ❤🎉❤🎉❤🎉❤🎉🦜🦕🦜🦕🦜🐓🐟
Good!🙏🙏👍💐
clearly he is a talented tool maker,
🙏🙏🙏👍💐
When you get a print to make a part, can you tell the boys yeah I can make that !
Now do the drill bit tap combo tool lol.. that’s one for a little challenge .. little
Отличная работа!
🙏🙏💐
Nice work bro😊
🙏🙏👍👍💐
what did it cost to make this against what it costs to buy one?
Look at the technique and knowledge of doing this and enjoy it my friend
dostum, sen bir dahisin!
Teşekkür ederim sevgili arkadaşım, beğenmene çok sevindim🙏🙏🙏💐
I think if I had all these tools I wouldn't waste time making a drill bit and just go buy them and save material for other projects
It is true, my friend, but the purpose of making and making this tool is something else, which you will understand if you read the comments of other friends
Nice work sir ❤❤❤ I want to learn the skills also❤❤❤
Always welcome🙏👍🌹
A iesit super dar cred ca ai prea mult timp liber un burghiu de 10 este super ieftin nu vad de ce-ti pierzi timpul
Vă sugerez să mergeți și să citiți comentariile altor prieteni despre această problemă
You're good 👍
Subscribed 💪
Thanks and welcome🙏🙏🙏💐👍
should make a drillbit holder that engages the spiral so you can very accurately grind it and not grind too far and ruin the cutting edge
with low grit sandpaper belt i always grinded my drills, i would adjust the metal plate accordingly to a plate i had grinded at the right angle, i could grind many drillbits in very short time with about 90-95% success rate
if its totally messed up i would insert in hand-drill and counter-clockwise grind it on the belt then take it out and grind it flat, remove the excess metal on the backside
i prefer to leave the finish with a very flat grinding rather than rounded, it seems stronger but it can be hard to guesstimate
the attachments where you do a swinging motion and press drill into the grinding mechanic sucks compared to doing by hand- because you have little control and drillbits vary in lenght so its impractical. we need something thats adjustable easily. biggest obstacle is not grinding the drillbit too far and making it the same as when you grind it using a hand drill
Thanks for all the great points you have mentioned my friend🙏🙏🙏👌❤️
Good job!!!!
Thanks!!🙏🙏👍
Outstanding!
Glad you like it!🙏💐👍
The finger wag at the beginning tells you it must be good….
Very impressive.
Thank you very much!🙏🙏👍❤️
@@Mastermind- My pleasure.
12:20 you can drill only alluminium or stainless to?
It's possibly
Very very respec to you.l like to ask you a question.what is the name of liquid you use to cool down the bit,tq
Which one?
What solution are you using to keep drill bits cool?
I'm not understand the meaning my friend
cool, well done
👍👍👍
Блин идея!!! 🙋сделать из сверла метчик
Funk FPV has entered the chat!
good job
Thanks🙏🙏💐
Cho tôi hỏi: dung dịch bạn sử dụng để tạo lỗ là gì (5:00s)
i will def try this with my lathe
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Genijalno
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For your coolant use hair conditioner with water and fine oil it's cheap 👌
Thanks for the tip!🙏
Master Machinist
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That was a great job but it's not wort to do it 10mm dril bit cost only $4.50 (from GERMANY)
Top das galáxias
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دمت گرم
Go ahead and buy a left hand double lead Acme tap at K-mart (USA)
Any size!
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I could understand using all that time if it were a thread I couldn’t buy but not one that costs a few quid.
I have 350kg's of toolsteel at my disposal XD
You can try it my friend😉
For tempering,whot is the name of the well which is cooled ofter heating, would it benefid me?
All that work to save twenty bucks.
Another case for you: I need a tap for repairing a stripped thread, for example, M16, 5. Pitch 2mm. Where can I order one, what are the delivery times, and how much will it cost?
Interesting, If your heat insulating blocks are doing their job, you torching the outside of them is doing nothing to the bit inside.
Before placing the thermal bricks, the inside is also heated, and then I heat the outside so that the heat inside disappears later, and it is almost efficient, my good friend.
This dude loves chips and milk.
???
@@Mastermind- clearing chips with cutting fluid that looks like milk. It made sense when I wrote it cuz I was drunk.
It's not a drill bit it's a tap
Inside the green bottle which you use inside the video
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Танец с бубном.
What's up with the snowmachine I hear in the background?
which machine?
I did not understand what you mean, my friend
@@Mastermind- You might know it as a snowmobile
super 🇦🇿💯👍 Azerbaijan
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Whats the Name of machine??..
It's name is AFM from Poland
GRACIAS
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What oil ush in tember
Hi friend
Hi my dear friend
Does it make economic sense ?
My goal in this video is to show the knowledge and sometimes easy techniques of this work and enjoy doing the work In any case, thank you very much for watching and commenting
Whats the writing on the brick? Arabic?
Maby
СОЖ очень густая , разводи сильнее , пока аллергию не заработал
مته را نباید حرارت بدهی،آلیاژش ضعیف میشه و هنگام چرخیدن،لبه ها زود کُل میشه.اگر در تصویر میبینی که کُل نمیشه بخاطر اینه که بادست میچرخوندش و دور پایین هس،ولی اگر با دریل،حتی بادور پایین دریل بچرخه،زود لبه کُل میشه
له، اما هنگامی که آن را به "قرمز گیلاسی" گرم کرد و آن را خاموش کرد. سفتش کرد. سپس چرخه حرارتی کوچکتری به آن داد تا آنقدر شکننده نباشد.
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