This was really helpful, Zach. For anything where I'm replacing a switch that failed after more than 165K miles, you bet I'll use OEM. I've used non-OEM switches (Cali-Raised) that mimic Toyota's graphics and background light color and those were a complete waste of time and money, not to mention hassle. They kept failing. Toyota OEM switches work and are solid. The few bucks you might save will cost a lot more in the long run.
This comment is mostly to increase your engagement haha Toyota used to include an instruction in the owner's manual that you should engage your four-wheel drive high at least once a month and drive two or three miles at between 25 and 35 miles per hour just to make sure the system will engage and everything stays lubricated. And if someone reads this and they're thinking about picking up a crows foot at Harbor freight, I have had nothing but bad luck with them.
Thanks for sharing good information well do so any problems with 4L mine seems to go in hard and after a few minutes it goes in i have a TRD ORP with the shifter
Watched your video and ordered a set of oxygen sensor sockets. I can usually get sensors and switches out with open ended wrenches, but not that one lol.
Great video. Very informative and helpful diagnosis. I have a 21 with manual t-case. Mine sometimes doesn’t engage right away. I’ve already had a failed front differential actuator at 18k miles. Not sure what’s going on with my 4Runner
I have a 23 orp. 4x4 lights are blinking. Vehicle does not want to engage any of the 4x4 settings. Dealer says no signal to the 4x4 ECU. Any ideas on what you think it may be?
My electronic locking rear diff light seems to blink for too long before it turns solid. I have 120K miles on my 2020 TRD Pro. I exercise all off road systems once every month and have since day one. But the locking rear diff light issue has pretty much been doing this since day one. Have you seen that issue with your 4R?
The Toyota electronic lockers are notorious for taking forever to engage. But the best thing you can do is what you are doing and exercise the system at least once a month
Yeah, the OEM rear locking diffs use a locking pin design that needs to fall into a hole. I think that process can sometimes take a little bit depending on how you roll into it
I have found that when I press the diff-lock button I need to be turning for it to "fall into place". If my wheels are pointed straight, it doesn't seem to want to engage. The light just blinks. That being said I am a new 4runner owner and have only engaged it to exercise the system, not in any stuck situations.
I have a question since you’re probably the only guy that has run all of the tires I’m contemplating getting. Which have been the best all around for the 4Runner? I have ridge grapplers on my Cummins and they’re nice. I previously had a hemi ram with ko2 and disliked them. I also had Toyo mt’s and liked those but they were loud. Any advice on a good all terrain is much appreciated!
Depends on if you lean mud terrain...if you want that more agressive look and decent mud performance, Id go with a Baja Boss AT. If you are wanting a quiet on road tire thats primarily for on road? I'd go with a Toyo AT3 due to its light weight nature. I'd then go with a higher load rating in the Toyo AT3 because they side walls can get squishy and that counterbalances the MPG and weight benefits...
I just picked up a set of 285’s, KENDA Klever RT’s in a 10 ply. They are a hybrid, I wanted something more aggressive than the Coopers I had on previously.
has anyone had an issue with it taking long time to engage and disengage. The green icon normally flashes while its shifting into 4wd just takes longer then normal.
I have a 2014 Trail Edition with 178K miles with the manual shift knob too. My vehicle actually engages into 4H and 4L easily, but the green "4WD" light blinks and the red "4LO" light doesn't come on at all. I did some troubleshooting on a steep dirt trail and the green light would stay blinking even if I switched back and forth between 2H and 4H. It would actually switch to 2H as only the rear wheels would spin on a steep uphill. But, I'd move the lever to 4H and 4LO and the truck will climb right up, but again the green light would blink and the red light would not come on. With more troubleshooting, the only way I can get the blinking green light to stop is switching back to 2H and turning off the ignition and pulling the key. I re-insert the key and turn the truck back on the light is off. But, if I try the same thing while in 4H or 4LO, turning the truck off with a blinking green light and re-inserting the key and starting it back up, the green light still blinks and the red "4LO" does not come on. I'm going to take a look at these switches. Thanks!
No body else is making videos like this. I love it
Thanks!
Well deserved break. Thanks. Always good content Zach. Going to feel like Mn this week in Oklahoma. And already tested and my 4wd is working fine
Thanks! I appreciate it. Good call to double check.
This was really helpful, Zach. For anything where I'm replacing a switch that failed after more than 165K miles, you bet I'll use OEM. I've used non-OEM switches (Cali-Raised) that mimic Toyota's graphics and background light color and those were a complete waste of time and money, not to mention hassle. They kept failing.
Toyota OEM switches work and are solid. The few bucks you might save will cost a lot more in the long run.
Yeah fair point, especially for this angle of work where the access is a little tricky, I’d rather not think about it again
This comment is mostly to increase your engagement haha Toyota used to include an instruction in the owner's manual that you should engage your four-wheel drive high at least once a month and drive two or three miles at between 25 and 35 miles per hour just to make sure the system will engage and everything stays lubricated.
And if someone reads this and they're thinking about picking up a crows foot at Harbor freight, I have had nothing but bad luck with them.
Interesting! Yeah I couldn’t even find the size foot I needed at Harbor Freight…it’s also tricky because too fat of a foot won’t really fit in there
Yes, but where do you drive in 4WD when there isn't easy access to trails/dirt/gravel every month?
@@dh6167 sorry, I misunderstood your comment. You can do that just rolling on grass too. I think once a month is a little excessive
@@dh6167 you can do 4H on straight roads for a couple miles without binding up the transfer case
Thanks for sharing good information well do so any problems with 4L mine seems to go in hard and after a few minutes it goes in i have a TRD ORP with the shifter
You might need to swap out that switch then for 4L!
I try and actuate the transfer case and 4lo and rear locker a few times each month.
Great very informative video Zach
Thanks!
Thank you for this informative video. Appreciate it.
Watched your video and ordered a set of oxygen sensor sockets. I can usually get sensors and switches out with open ended wrenches, but not that one lol.
Great video. Very informative and helpful diagnosis. I have a 21 with manual t-case. Mine sometimes doesn’t engage right away. I’ve already had a failed front differential actuator at 18k miles. Not sure what’s going on with my 4Runner
Woah bizarre…
Thanks for sharing.
Hope to see an update on the Toyos!
I have a 23 orp. 4x4 lights are blinking. Vehicle does not want to engage any of the 4x4 settings. Dealer says no signal to the 4x4 ECU. Any ideas on what you think it may be?
My electronic locking rear diff light seems to blink for too long before it turns solid. I have 120K miles on my 2020 TRD Pro. I exercise all off road systems once every month and have since day one. But the locking rear diff light issue has pretty much been doing this since day one. Have you seen that issue with your 4R?
The Toyota electronic lockers are notorious for taking forever to engage. But the best thing you can do is what you are doing and exercise the system at least once a month
Yeah, the OEM rear locking diffs use a locking pin design that needs to fall into a hole. I think that process can sometimes take a little bit depending on how you roll into it
I have found that when I press the diff-lock button I need to be turning for it to "fall into place". If my wheels are pointed straight, it doesn't seem to want to engage. The light just blinks. That being said I am a new 4runner owner and have only engaged it to exercise the system, not in any stuck situations.
I have a question since you’re probably the only guy that has run all of the tires I’m contemplating getting. Which have been the best all around for the 4Runner? I have ridge grapplers on my Cummins and they’re nice. I previously had a hemi ram with ko2 and disliked them. I also had Toyo mt’s and liked those but they were loud. Any advice on a good all terrain is much appreciated!
Depends on if you lean mud terrain...if you want that more agressive look and decent mud performance, Id go with a Baja Boss AT. If you are wanting a quiet on road tire thats primarily for on road? I'd go with a Toyo AT3 due to its light weight nature. I'd then go with a higher load rating in the Toyo AT3 because they side walls can get squishy and that counterbalances the MPG and weight benefits...
Many people like Falken Wildpeaks and they are nice but pretty spendy and heavy. I don't dislike them though.
I just picked up a set of 285’s, KENDA Klever RT’s in a 10 ply. They are a hybrid, I wanted something more aggressive than the Coopers I had on previously.
has anyone had an issue with it taking long time to engage and disengage. The green icon normally flashes while its shifting into 4wd just takes longer then normal.
Sounds like maybe a front actuator going...hard to say...
I have a 2014 Trail Edition with 178K miles with the manual shift knob too. My vehicle actually engages into 4H and 4L easily, but the green "4WD" light blinks and the red "4LO" light doesn't come on at all. I did some troubleshooting on a steep dirt trail and the green light would stay blinking even if I switched back and forth between 2H and 4H. It would actually switch to 2H as only the rear wheels would spin on a steep uphill. But, I'd move the lever to 4H and 4LO and the truck will climb right up, but again the green light would blink and the red light would not come on. With more troubleshooting, the only way I can get the blinking green light to stop is switching back to 2H and turning off the ignition and pulling the key. I re-insert the key and turn the truck back on the light is off. But, if I try the same thing while in 4H or 4LO, turning the truck off with a blinking green light and re-inserting the key and starting it back up, the green light still blinks and the red "4LO" does not come on. I'm going to take a look at these switches. Thanks!