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Turbine Housing A/R Ratios Explained!
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- čas přidán 9. 08. 2022
- What is the "A/R" of the turbocharger hot side?
What does that mean & Why is it measured that way?
What type or size of A/R does a gasoline vehicle need?
Does it need to be larger to support the higher RPM exhaust flow?
Do Diesels need a smaller A/R for quickly spooling the turbo while towing?
Do Diesels need a larger A/R for high HP applications a racing?
If you have asked any of these questions, we are here to help clarify any confusion on the subject!
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I just installed the gtp38r kc center cartridge with .84 on my superduty 7.3 zf6. Perfect combo.
I greatly appreciate the info. Really good analogy it makes sense finally
For a daily/street 0.6-1 AR is where you want it. Just make sure you have an electronic boost controller and external wastegate to prevent back pressure.
Do you have a video describing the difference between twin scroll, and open?
I just went from a stock obs tp38 with a wicked wheel and a 1.0 housing to a kc turbo stage 1 63/70 .84. I already noticed more boost on the same tune and it comes on faster. I also noticed a very large egt drop with the stage 1. I can now pull a hill at about 1100° vs 1300°
Jason is like this was the wrong day to smoke on lunch 🤣
A/R ratio for an S15 / SR20DET with stock internals ?
Turbo just died and looking at upgrading to a G25 - 550 but dont know if i should replace the manifold for the 0.72 v band inlet or keep the existing manifold and get hte G25 550 with the T25 inlet and 0.49 A/R.
Match the turbo for the engine max HP area . Max HP 450 @ 4,800 get a turbo that have best flow around that RPM . Working together united state has great benefits
Thank you!
"we don't recommend 1.15, they're laggy and slow" 😅😅 and I'm here rocking a 1.22 on my Honda.. 🙈
He's talking stock or close to stock. Obviously your Honda isn't anywhere near stock. If it is, it's laggy and basically worthless.
@@brettrichards666 i think also, he's talking about diesel engines.
@@Dankro91 Yeah. I honestly have no clue about Hondas. Who knows, maybe you can run a 100mm 5.5AR housing on a honda. Lol
@@brettrichards666 🤣 noo that's a little too much.
@@Dankro91 Oh, okay. I learned something new today. Haha
Could u let me know what would be best for a FORD FALCON Barra Engine 2003 to 2014 not above 2016 there FG models and they are short barra engines... the earlier ones are Long barra engines.. which i have a 2004 model... i wanted to make around 500HP Just wanted to know what would be best for lots of power and very fast boost... which Turbo to choose i was leaning around a medium sized one... but there is a lack of info out there on whats good and not lol...
hi im looking for advise i have a BMW e46 with the engine M52B28TU and im looking for a turbo ist will be my dayly car so the target is 350-400HP with 0.7-1.0 bar engine is stock and i know its good till 450hp in the future i may upgrade the engine to 500-600hp but now im asking for advice whitch turbo with what A/R is better 0.63 or 0.82 for 2.8 Liter i like to spool from 3000-3500 RPM im looking for a garett now thank you
I have a vw touran 2006 1.9 diesel. The factory turbine spec makes the turbo to boost at low rpm from 1k rpm to 3k rpm and the 4k and 5k rpm doesn't feel like it's having a big boost. So I wanna switch to a turbo that covers the rpm from 1k to 5k.
Any suggestions?
We do not dabble in those turbos, Have you tried different custom tunes?
Will I notice a difference in spool swapping from a .94 to a .8 or .7
Yes sir
1.0 ar with 300% iniectors on the 7.3 is pretty fun after 3000 Rpms ...pretty much Amesome . Not for Everybody though 😂
Why does no one talk about compressor AR??? Why not change that? Why not explain how to match turbine AR to Compressor AR?
Compressor AR has much less effect on overall operation. It's usually chosen by the oem to match flow needed for a range of housings. Therefore it's usually the same for 5 different turbos and turbines. Sometimes more. I
Switch blade design is best of both worlds.... Only if there was one for the 7.3
thx a lot
FFD recommended i go with the 1.0 when i was setting up my 96 FSuperduty dump with 63/73 tiger and their 180/30's. Its pretty much still useless down low where i need it even with full fuel system and adrenaline setup. I knew i should have went tighter for what i was doing. Any suggestions?
Change the exhaust housing to a .84ar and you wont be disappointed.
Quick question for a 7.3 does it change the sounds I would think since the turbo is spooling soon better sound at idle and lower Rpm’s
There is not usually much of a sound change with different a/r housings... except like you said that you will hear boost coming on a little sooner.
The kc 63/73 with .84ar is slightly louder sound and turbo whistle from exhaust side and gives a good relatively quiet sound on the compressor sound.
You can spool a stage 3 with 160s unlike what this guy said on the phone. Ask me how I know.
Anything will spool eventually... but why? 160s are good for 375-425hp and stage 3 is good for 500-550hp. So you have the laggy of a bigger turbo that won't make any extra power. Sizing the turbo and injectors together will always net the best results. For 160s I would go with an s1 turbo.
Any input on .84 a/r and whicked wheel 2 on a 97 7.3?
The Wicked wheel 2 is on the compressor side and the .84 A/R is referencing the hot side.
@@KCTURBOS copy that. Would that be too much stress on the turbo?
@@707Anguiano No, that should run well. But I would go with a KC billet wheel or balanced assembly with .84ar housing.
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I put the 1.15 ar turbine housing on my 03 7.3. best way to drive a super duty imo
I have always hated the 1.15, its laggy, spools slower, and makes less power. We have tested it many times. But as long as you like more lag, more smoke, and less power... then the 1.15 is perfect.
@@peixinho5927 well I have a WWII and properly deleted wastegate and good capped lines, performs and tows better.
Actually less smoke, as the waste gate opens it dumps more smoke, so you've got that backwards.