Installing Tire on a Highwheel / Penny Farthing / Hiwheel Bicycle.
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- čas přidán 4. 09. 2024
- Installing solid rubber tire on Hiwheel bikes also known as Penny Farthing, Ordinary and Highwheel bicycles, Boneshaker and wheelchair.
www.hiwheel.com
www.highwheel.com
Video by Marcus Marchesseault
It wasn't until the last 30 seconds that I finally understood how that was going to work. Excellent video.
Sort of your classic British engineering that has been through a few generations of local blokes figuring out the easiest way to implement it. I did not see that coming either.
I did start to partly understand it @ around 7:16, but fully @ 9:35.
Same here
9:25 "Pick up the wheel...flip it over...and there's your join...!" What a delightful surprise it was to see you do that! I was wondering how you were going to join the ends and then you pull that trick priceless out of your hat! Respect to those old-timers! Kudos to you.
It's a lost talent. Gotta keep this 100 year old method relevant.
If that's how they did it back in the 19th century, this is yet another example that engineers and mechanics of that time were some brilliant people.
The proof of that is absolutely everything we make and use today is based solely or partly on the work 19th Century scientists and engineers pioneered. All of it.
Yes. Seeing someone execute this process is impressive. But inventing this process? Whoever invented it was amazing.
Looks so easy once you show us how. Great stuff. I came over from Ron's channel, the collaboration amongst the community is great. Thanks!
Ron is an interesting guy!
Apparently I forgot to include the rubber length needed for the tires. Tire overlap is important. For large wheels you can estimate a circumference plus 10% length for the tire rubber. For instance, a 48" wheel has a circumference of roughly 12 1/2 feet but with the overlap there would be roughly 13 1/2 of tire. That additional tire is compressed on the wheel and prevents the tire from gapping at the joint due to road torque.Greg BarronRBR Inc
Have years of bike mechanic experience, yet I just learned something new. Awesome video!
Something new every day Brad!
This is exactly like putting tires on a wagon wheel. Engels Coach Shop has some good videos on how he does it with 2 high tensile wires and brazing. One trick he does is to rotate and bang the rubber on the concrete to distribute the compressive stress evenly among the tire.
The difference though is many coach wheels use a 2 wire tire due to the size of the material going on the rim. I have a 2 wire draw machine here that I got from a coach maker in TX some years back. As to banging the wheel on the ground, that works best with big heavy wheels. Light wire wheels like these react best to a cross strike with a tool and or being mounted and rode to equalize the rubber. With enough lubricant at installation the tire does a pretty good job of self equalizing around the circumference.
Great technique! I always thought they had to stretch and pry a completed loop of rubber over the rim. This is really elegant, how it closes itself in against the tensioned wires.
Glad it's helpful. And while I know one guy that rolls the jointed wire up over the rims, I don't recommend it.
Superb. I’ve only ever seen the brazed joint. What a great method.
Thanks! I prefer this over the application of heat to the joint and I think after 12000 wheels I can safely say it works well. That said, if prefer to do it another way, who am I to say anything.
Smart ! I have enjoyed your 38 in bike for over 18 years in Japan.
So glad you have been enjoying the bike for the last 18 years! That is pretty awesome and very satisfying for me to hear! Keep riding!
Excellent process review and execution. You kept me engaged till the end!
I hope it proves helpful for you sometime! I also sell some of the tooling should you not be able to make it yourself.
Ingenious mechanism! Whoever invented this method had a very deep understanding on how physics works.
Woooow I love that ... very nice ... keep working on this my friend ... you are a master 💪👊💗🙏
Greg: Nicey informative, and clearly presented. My RBR is due to arrive and I am further convinced I made the right choice after watching you work! As a career mechanic, I understood every aspect. Including the "Oops I have to loosen it back up again" moment. That's real. ;) Also, wearing a mechanical watch is SO in step with your avocation.
Glad you found it informative, maybe one day you will have to install a tire yourself and being that there aren't all that many folks left in the country that know how, I figured it a good idea to post the video. And nothing really beats a good watch.
Greg does a great job. I have used his bikes for over 20 years as a professional entertainer.
It's good work if you can get it!
This was a very informative video (doubt I'll even need that, but was a nice piece of trivia nonetheless). I also think some of the installation tips (tire shine/silicone oil) will help me with a different kind of full rubber tire.
Useless trivia and information always comes in handy sometime, somewhere, somehow. Glad you liked it!
@@gbarron64 czcams.com/video/Zmvt7yFTtt8/video.html
or
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I had to watch that whole thing because I couldn't guess how it was all going to come together. I imagine there aren't many who do what you do, especially in the U.S. You must be in great demand.
Well, great demand may be stretching it a bit but I appreciate the sentiment. And yes, there are not many in the US that install tire like this.
Nicely done!
I hope it's helpful!
If it's tricky for a professional, it might not be something you want to attempt for the first time over a weekend. Pretty awesome
It's doable for most folks, though for some I recommend an extra piece of wire just in case it goes wrong the first attempt.
I would do this with a smile, but I have no wheel to practice on 🤣
this was super interesting! thank you for sharing / showing
I'm pleased you found it interesting, thanks for letting me know.
That was impressive. Thanks for the video.
Glad you liked it!
Respect! Great job, Greg!
I just found this video after Ron Covell referred to it in his recent video (late April 2022). Your technique is similar to that used by Dave Engels when putting new tires on buggy/carriage wheels, mostly for Amish customers who use them.
There aren't many methods of solid rubber tire installation and only a few more people that still practice the service. The Amish are still making buggies and buggy whips too. In fact, there are a bunch of lost art trades that you can find in Amish and Quaker communities. And of course, here in the hiwheel communities too.
@@gbarron64 Yes, Dave builds buggies, carriages, wagons from scratch, but mostly repairs and/or restores originals. He started his channel in order to preserve his Wainwright & Wheelwright (spelling for both?) skills for the future.
@@bobvines00 That's one of the reasons I did these videos. There are very few people in the county capable of doing this. It's not a terribly available skillset.
@@gbarron64 Thank you for sharing *your* technique and the simple tooling needed. Dave's equipment is much larger & more complicated, like the wheels he works on, and could scare many away from even trying.
@@bobvines00 I've got a machine for putting the double strand tires on, big tool for big material... I've yet to use it...
Unbelievable. The craziest thing I‘ve seen in cycling so far. Thanks for sharing.
I don't know about craziest but it's not really common any more...
Wow! Never seen that done before!
it sounds and looks rather complicated for the average hobby craftsman. Congrats on your elegant way of handling it.
Most folks that attempt it manage to pull it off pretty well. Occasionally someone will need a second piece of wire, but it usually seems to work out. And being that there are very few people in the country that perform this service, for those in need, it is doable!
That was pretty cool, Cheers 4 sharing sir.
Just trying to get it out there so the world will go back to hiwheels and solid tires! It'll happen any day now.
@@gbarron64 haha anyday now
Very nice job , Thankyou for showing
amazing! I didn't need to know this but very glad that I now do!
Glad it may prove helpful!
wow nice work 👍
excellent work. Well done!
very educational , thanks Greg it was great
+charls dixi Glad you liked it. I'm always happy to help.
Thank You for a most interesting and informative video . Love your bikes !
I'm trying!
This is incredible.
Fun too!
Very neat!
work of art, very interesting! thanx
Glad you like them Cera. Let me know if you have questions.
Never seen this done before!
Well, realistically, there aren't all that many people in the world that do it. Commercially, I am the only person in the country doing it at all.
Gods I love the internet having stuff like this from trades that have distilled down to pure techniques for things I would overthink.
1:43 the subforum /specializedtools on reddit would might get a kick out that that spacer for it's raw problem solving simplicity.
I had no idea where this was going, all that rubber/wire slack made no sense, thought the technique would be welding the ends of rubber or the wires together somehow but all that pull tension made that seem counter to welding.
Then at 9:25 that wire twist technique is like a 2am-as-seen-on-tv-why-didn't-I-think-of-that Brilliant , a real "twist ending" 😉.
A lot to be said for old tech that still works just fine after more than 100 years.
The extra rubber actually is the spring the keeps the gap closed. Without the compression, road torque would pull the gap open and expose the joint.
That was excellent 👌
Glad you liked it!
Like your video very interesting and well explained Thank you.
Bravo! well done!
Brilliant!
WOW - very cool
That was so cool!!!!!
Now it's your turn to try.
thank you very much fot the expication , it has helped me a lot and
Happy to know it helped you.
Impressive 👍
Yea Baby! Let’s Ride!
I also do lessons for those that can make it to the shop.
Just like magic.
Actually, just old technology. Of course, anything advanced enough can seem like magic in the right situation! Glad you liked it.
Magic!
Fascinating! I had no idea and I walk past a pennyfarthing every day.
Where do you see a Penny Farthing every day? They are not terribly plentiful.
@@gbarron64 outside The Athenaeum Hotel & Residences in Piccadilly, London, UK. Check Street View. You might see it too.
@@andresilva8444 Strange, but it won't give me an interactive street view.
@@gbarron64 I tried as well. It’s not even on Apple Street View. But it is there.
@@andresilva8444 Totally believe you. If you get the chance, send a picture! I'd love to see what you see.
Brilliant 👏
I hope it helps you!
thats really neat
That's so cool...
Has anyone considered crimping the ends before letting the rubber close up? A crimping bead wouldn't be too big and it may strengthen the connection some without using heat.
I have thought of crimping beads, but the thing is that the material works the same function as long as the tails are crimped down tight. Also, the amount of space to work in is tight and sometimes the spacer wants to pop itself out due to tire pressure at each side. so, I never did start with them.
@@gbarron64Without making a custom crimping tool I understand how it would be an issue. Thanks for the video and the reply. Now my brain is thinking of ways to use this rubber mounting method in other applications as well.
@@moretimethanmoney8611 Happy to be of assistance! Be sure to let me know how it works out for you once you figure out an application that suits you.
Awesome !!!
I like it!
+Kristian Akseth I have a second one as well for small wheels so have a look at that one too.
That is very cool !
Seems that there would be a noticeable lump in the tire at the joint where the wires are crimped that you would notice every time the wheel makes a revolution when you are riding on it. Seems that a tire with a pre-Vulcanized joint would be a better way to go. Modern rubber could be developed that could be heated, placed over the wheel and shrink tight when it is cooled.
Totally over-thinking the issue, I know, but there is always a better way.
Your way of mounting the tire is certainly traditional but requires a variety of tools and a “feel” for correct tension that is only acquired from experience.
I’ve never ridden a Penny-Farthing so perhaps the wire joint is not noticeable while riding and not an issue. Great video BTW.
Brad Jacobs, the 'lump in the tire' issue is why a lot of (probably the majority of highwheel tire installation folks - in the US anyway) favor the brazing method over the bent wire method. Another thing to consider is how the highwheel bike will be used. Greg makes a LOT of bikes and has more experience installing tires than anyone, but many riders of his RBR bikes don't use them for long distance riding; many are professional entertainers, or are being ridden mostly for parades, etc; but probably few of them are used for long distance touring, which racks up the miles. A tire with a lump is not a big concern for the riding applications where distances are less. But the metal fatigue that can, and HAS, happened to bent wire mounted highwheel tires is something that will more affect bikes ridden in the traditional way, in other words for actual transportation, where a lot of miles get put on.
It is true that brazing a wire will slightly weaken it near the joint. But bending the wire also slightly weakens it, and certainly having the 'knot' in the wire subjected to roughly 2 million revolutions during the wear lifespan of a typical tire (this math is per a 50" front wheel, and using traditional red rubber tires, as opposed to the black neoprene tires). In my own experience with both knotted and brazed wire joints, I have never had a wire failure on a brazed wire that occurred anywhere near the joint, but I HAVE had a few knotted wires break at the joint.
So, as Greg aptly puts it, use whatever kind of joint you are comfortable making and feel is best. They both work. Each has its pros and cons.
@@youtuuba Not quite sure who I am speaking to but... As to a lump due to the joint, the only time that happens is when the tire thickness gets small. The 7/8" used on most wheels these days really doesn't get a bulge at the joint. 3/4 and 5/8 tire with wire that is too thick certainly can and does. Use proper gauge wire thickness and there is no issue. Otherwise, the wire thickness is still only ever as fat as 2-1/2 wires laid together. Go ahead, measure them. On most wheels, that is only slightly larger than 2 side by side wires. .60". The next thing is that they tend to compress into the material over time and more often than not, wind up diagonal to the cross section. 3rd thing is in the 50 years we've been making bikes, plenty of folks have ridden their tires right flat (4-8000 miles 10,000 or so wheels) and had to replace them and never complain about a lump. In fact, I did a tire on a bike recently that was on its 2nd tire and had to install a 3rd, so, 2 million revolutions a year didn't faze it and the rider didn't feel it. My personal bikes all have the joint and I can't feel a bump. I have several local riders that use their bikes for transportation and never have an issue and can't feel the joint. There are "many riders of RBR bikes" that do use them for long distance. Even if only 20% of my customers ride lots of miles, that is still a lot of bikes getting a lot of mileage. Respectfully, I am pretty sure that folks that say they can feel the joint, are imagining it. And really, I am not sure the "majority" of installation people are more than a handful of people nationally, at best. My impression/opinion these days is there are maybe 5 folks nationally that install tires in what could be called commercially. Those would be the people to ask, because they do more than a wheel or 2 a year. The rest of the "installers" are hobbyists that only occasionally do installations for anyone other than themselves. Who they are and where they are located is often a mystery to most and putting someone in touch with any of them is next to impossible for most folks that need a new tire installed. Also, for the most part, those folks are indoctrinated into a method of installation that started regionally from one family in the early 1970's. Just like the light red color of the tire rubber that is favored on the East Coast. Doesn't matter that color samples of original tire I have on my shelf show to be far darker, it's become a personal preference based on use. It's the way that geographic did or learned how to do and so, because of that, they decide that is best. Whether it's accurate or not. So, the politics of tire installation is open to interpretation. And again, respectfully, I have seen far more broken wires on soldered wire tires than I've seen on jointed wire. Again, 10,000 or so wheels under my belt, I don't recall getting many calls on breakage and I keep sending out 100-300 bikes a year. Whereas I do recall personally replacing soldered jointed tires at a couple Wheelmen meets, here at the shop and have gotten reports of broken solder wire. Being that I am a commercial operation and do see volume most people don't, the math does call the question of what is accurate. Obviously, I can't sway a set opinion, but I will keep popping out facts and actual numbers when called on it. Not saying that there isn't wire fatigue in either. I am saying, my experience in witnessing failure is certainly higher in the solder method. That said, when someone that has never done either does one or the other methods, they could easily do it wrong and put on too much tension. That is the principal factor in a wire failure. Improper installation. Too tight, the joint will break. Too loose, the tire isn't secure in the rim.
Brad, I'm glad you liked the video, but I think maybe, as you admit never having ridden one, you should experience the bikes before you make a "Seems to me" comment. I don't feel a bump in the joint of my bike and pretty sure most of my customers don't feel one either. That changes in smaller gauge tire with the wrong size wire though. If you want to come down to the shop to check bikes out, I am open by appointment. come see for yourself. As to a "pre-vulcanized joint" those are found in the newer style "modern" neoprene tires that have a snap in channel in an extruded aluminum rim. They were also available on some original bikes but had to be glued down. I am sure there is a better way but, figuring out how to pay for it is the trick. Unless you can find a way to make it and then make money doing it, it ain't gonna happen. Unless you want to donate a fortune to something that just barely has a market.
@@gbarron64 Dave from Engels Coach Shop works on buggy wheels sometimes, they have two wires in them. The flipping over technique would end up in an awful mess. Both joints are brazed and staggered.
Love this! Wondering if you'd share where you buy your rubber?
nice job
Wow...!
Amazing!
Ron Covell sent me here.
Hope it was informative!
Wow, really interesting. And this is how it was historically done?
Pretty much yes. The joint had a couple twist methods and I've shown one.
One simple trick!
What if moisture gets in and erodes the wire? wouldn't melting/fusing/gluing the ends together be a longer lived tyre?
MrEmiosk, I know this reply is about three years too late, but first, the wire will not "erode" from moisture, but it could corrode. However, is the proper electroplated (Galvanized) wire is used, the only place where moisture would attack the underlying metal will be at the very ends of the wire, which are in the un-stressed short bent-over sections, so not a big deal.
Greg Barron's technique is a "classic" one, however most American Wheelmen (a bike club for riders of highwheel and other old bicycles) have long preferred the brazed (silver-soldered) method over the bent-over method. If done correctly, wire breakage seldom happens with either kind of joint. A big advantage of the brazed method is that the wire joint ends up being much narrower, and this plus the fact that there can be no friction-fatigue at the joint (as the bent wire method can have), the potential issue of that 'knot' being worked constantly during being ridden until metal fatigue finally kills the joint is eliminated. The sudden departure of the tire from the wheel, due to a broken wire, can be catastrophic and potentially very dangerous to the rider, so of course people who favor one wire joining method over another tend to be very convinced and devoted to the belief that their method is the only safe one.
Greg has a statistic, based on the great many highwheel bikes he has made over the decades, that he has not had a failure of a wire joint that he has made. That assumes that all of his many customers would report a broken wire if it occurred, and it also ignores the fact that most of his bikes are used by casual riders who are mostly not putting a lot of miles on their bikes, so right there it may be a compromised statistic. Most of the Wheelmen riders who swear by the brazed method are more inclined to ride longer distances and probably more frequently, and are doing the riding on antique bikes rather than Greg's reproductions, with most riders even doing 60 and 100 miles rides, plus a great many parades and such, plus many cross-country rides, and this really puts the tire wire joints to the test, so there is a different kind of validity to their belief that brazing is the safer, more reliable kind of joint.
I should point out that I have been a fellow Wheelman with Greg, and a friend, for a long time and respect his experience and opinions, while not being entirely convinced that his method is the safest. I also do not view his method as necessarily inferior to brazing.
When all is said and done, the differences in reliability of the wire joint between the two methods is probably pretty small, assuming that the process is done correctly.
Muito legal queria saber que mangueira e está 👍
This is not hose Osmar. This is a solid rubber extrusion that has a 3/16 hole through the center to allow the wire to pass through.
@@gbarron64 obrigado
@@osmarpereiracalhascatarina You are welcome.
Show!!!
I want a penny farthing so bad.
amazing!!
Glad you like it!
@@rideablebicyclereplicasinc4133 Really. I was impressed with the technique you use. I spent years trying to imagine "how" to put a tire on such a big wheel. I would like to build one of these bicycles and go out and surprise people on the street of my really old city. La Plata - Buenos Aires - Argentina. Thank you!
@@SiPabloPuede Well, make the tools you need and then put a tire on. It's not too tough and once you figure it out, it isn't so bad! glad I could help with the video.
I wonder if using rubber cement at the joint (to prevent water ingress on the wire/center hole) might be an idea. (As a step @ 10:40 before fully closing it)
Probably not gonna do much good and also, the adhesive would need to be able to bond natural rubber. It's a thought though.
@@gbarron64 I thought so, too, even if I don't think I think that often. ;p
Anyway, the bond doesn't have to be that good, as the rubber parts are pressing on each other anyway, and there is basically no load on it.at least compared to an inflated tire.
Disculpe en qué país es
Hii i have an original penny farthing bicycle, which is really quite old could u please could u tell me the price of it
I'd need to see the bike before I could make any comments on it's brand, condition or value. You can email to info@hiwheel.com and we can talk about it after I see the bike.
Off topic, what watch were you wearing? Looks cool.
Thank you for showing us this. I always thought they were soldered together.
That is a Marathon SAR. I've been wearing it for about 20 years. Love it. But yah, there are 2 schools of thought on how the wire connection should be made. The solder/weld/braze method and the twist method. At this point I can say I've done well over 12,000 wheels with this particular twist method and prefer it. I won't preach that one system is better or try to change someone's mind if they like heat on their parts but for durability, my record speaks pretty well on how effective the twist method is.
@@gbarron64 Marathon SAR looks like a cool watch. How's the tritium lume holding up after 20 years? (Those things have been on my bucket list radar for a while, lol.)
Maybe before galvanize steel/modern alloys the other methods were required but these days that's no longer the case and that's where the controversy come from. (I'm just guessing here.)
@@TheTarrMan That watch is so old it didn't have tritium, it had the previous system and over time faded away pretty badly. Also, I kind of broke it so that it needed a new stem. I sent it in to Marathon for repair and recertification. While it was out, my significant other got me a new TSAR and the tritium in that is amazing. Highly visible underwater and in dark conditions. I love it. What I do miss is that the new watch doesn't have the cyclops over the date window. And these older eyes have trouble without the magnifier. That said, it also has the 24 hour clock face and I like that. The older version had a numberless face.
@@TheTarrMan I have a buddy that collects watches. There was a time when radium was used on the face and hands of watches. I imagine it had a nice blue glow...
@@gbarron64 It depends on the luminescent material mixed in with the radium paint. Some glowed blue, commonly they glowed green.
Fun fact : Those watches are still highly radioactive and the only reason why they don't glow anymore is because the radiation degraded the luminescent material. If you laid a sheet of glow-in-the-dark paper directly over the dial, the paper would still glow in the shape of the indices. I believe the half life of radium is 1500 years so a 100 year old watch still has 99% of it's radium. (Remember half live is defined as "the time taken for the radioactivity to fall to half its original value.")
I have an old pocket watch I bought recently with a radium dial. It doesn't visibly glow anymore but it's still an interesting piece of history.
Is it possible to put an existing tire back on? The big tire fell off my penny but it's still a complete loop
Hello and the simple answer is yes. with conditions. The main problem is that I don't know the details of the particular tire and wheel so I could be totally wrong in that answer. If the tire suddenly got loose and then fell off, most likely the wire core broke. In that case, the wire must be replaced. The next issue is that if the tire is old, the rubber most probably has hardened in a compressed condition, and it is no longer elastic or long enough to have the required spring back to hold the joint area closed. Road torque will open a gap. Good rule of thumb for tires. If it fell off, it's probably worn out. Replace it. It's off, you already need to reinstall rubber. Don't stint on safety.
Your fantastic hairstyle made me remember Stallone in Rambo. Were you a fan in your early youth ?
That was just me growing it out to where it is now.
can I install training wheels to my penny farthing? if yes can you please make a video how to install the training wheels?
1. training wheel helps not to fall
2. and help the rider to get the confidence to ride the penny farthing
The first problem with that question is that no one makes training wheels for a hiwheel. That said, I do make a hiwheel trike that is designed to allow the tricycle to become a bicycle by removing the rear frame section. www.hiwheel.com/antique_replicas/hiwheel_trike.htm Can my rear frame be adapted to fit a hiwheel? I suppose so but it requires a bit of machine work and skill. Would that help someone gain confidence to ride a penny? Maybe. It would certainly allow them to learn to mount and dismount and allow them to see what pedaling one feels like. If you have questions, send me an email to info@hiwheel.com
thanks for answer
There is no difference in balancing a highwheel bike and a regular bike. If you can ride a modern bike, you have all the inherent skill needed to balance a highwheel. Just the mounting and dismounting process is different. So, if you don't need training wheels on a modern bike, there is no reason to have them on a highwheel bike. Actually, once you are mounted, a highwheel is more stable (less twitchy) than most modern bikes.
is there much risk of the sharp cut ends of the wire cutting through the rubber as the rubber moves and squishes with use? is there any use in using some sort of adhesive on the ends of the rubber tube to seal the wire even further?
Good question. Short answer, no. With a condition. The ends must have long enough tails that they couldn't unfold if they wanted to. So, figure 1/2-3/4 of fold over left after you cut the wire free. That said, I have seen wire that was not crimped properly at installation, and when the spacer is pulled out the ends opened and poked through as the rubber closed the gap. I've never needed an adhesive to bond the ends. The wire holds the tire down pretty well. Though should you experiment and want to share results, I'd be happy to hear about it.
Wow..👍👍
Ever think about manufacturing and selling that tool?
Where can I buy that kind of rubber?
sir,the tire material is from a rubber speargun measuring 3*20 mm isn't it
This vid must be for a very limited percentage of the population.
Only for those that need to know how to put solid rubber tire on a wheel.
Where can I buy these kind solid rubber tube and wire pre inserted?
You can get them directly from me should you like. Simply send me an email, call or hit the contact button from the website and we can get you started.
Greg
Hi, does anyone know where to find those kinds of tyres? I've searched online but can't seem to find them easily. I am in europe so a european distributor would be the most helpfull. Thanks
I have no idea who carries rubber products anywhere other than here. Sorry. Additionally, I have my tire made here in California. While I can mail tires to you I can not help you with a supplier in Europe.
@@gbarron64 What are the dimensions of the tire, ID and OD? I'll maybe try and contact some rubber manufacturers
Your cable clamp is backward. Never saddle a dead horse
Funny you should say that David. There is a purpose for doing it like that. So, thanks, but I'll keep doing it the way we have been doing it for 50 years.
interesting
I own and love your hiweheels!
Any advice when you get tire gaps randomly after some riding? How do you close up the tire gap or is that an indicator that my wire tension is too low? Gap is a little over an inch
Hello and very good question. This is a maintenance issue usually but can also be a loose tire issue as well. If the tire is nice and tight in the rim, then you probably have a tire that self vulcanized to the rim somewhere. That can be cured easily and quickly with some WD40. If you have a tire gap for whatever reason, first start by lubricating the tire and rim. Insert the WD40 applicator tip into the core hole of the tire. Flood the interior of the tire from both sides of the gap. Then, spray the tire where it touches the rim all the way around the wheel. From the gap in both directions, wiggle the tire a bit to free it from where it's sticking. Then ride. The gap should close in less than a block but you may have to reapply and try again.
In my experience, usually the tire can stick to the rim in conditions such as extremes of temperature, after riding in water or through a very gritty surface or all of the above. That said, should y our tire actually be loose in the rim, then the core wire has stretched and no amount of treatment will get it to stay for long. A loose tire must be changed as it could be a safety issue and you don't want one of those.
Another issue that I come across from time to time are spokes that protrude past the nipple head. Those are a mechanical issue that no amount of lubrication will fix. They need to be ground off flush to the nipple to prevent a mechanical obstruction that could cut the tire and cause another type of failure.
Greg Barron
@@gbarron64 I love this reply. So many years of knowledge distilled into a few paragraphs.
Thank you, Greg, for sharing your knowledge so generously. It's fascinating, even for the majority of us who are never likely to even ride an ordinary, let alone own and maintain one.
@@weevilinabox You never can tell when one may turn up in your life!
WD-40 is not a lubricant. The WD stands for water displacement. I worked in a bike shop for 2 years and every single one of our lead mechanics said the same thing. WD-40 is not a lubricant!
Well I'm sorry you don't feel it's a lubricant. Certainly the WD stands for water displacement and it's the 40th formula they came up with. Seems to me that the people that make WD40 think it can be used for a lubricant. www.wd40.com/uses-tips/lubricate . For the last 40 years working in my shop I've used it as a lubricant among other things. But you being and expert and all, I can see why you would be upset. 2 whole years working in a bike shop. Seems I wasted 2 years in machinist school and 2 years in a GM technician training academy. And 45 years of having my own bike shop, vehicle manufacturing facility and auto restoration business. And boy will the people at WD40 be surprised when they find out it's not a lubricant...
@@gbarron64 Anything used to reduce friction is a lubricant, such as water or soap, etc.
@@gbarron64 Anything that reduces friction is a lubricant, such as water, soap, etc.
WD-40 certainly has components that have lubricating properties. I think what the guys in the bike shop cited by Matt Gallagher meant is that WD-40 is not a good choice for being a permanent lubricant. For example, it can be useful when you need to lubricate something quickly and with minimal mess, but for long term lubricating action you should use a product actually intended for the purpose. While I have not done extensive testing, and I certainly don't have Greg Barron's long experience, my observation is that WD-40 will be subject to a lot of evaporation, and before long much of it has disappeared. This property actually makes it good for uses such as shown in this video, but don't use it as your modern bike chain lubricant.
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penny i have a old machine to mount tires on bike it take no time at all
What is the name of the type of tensor you used at the anchor?
Hi Juan, well, since I'm not entirely sure which end you mean, I'll go over the entire rig. Starting at the right side there is a cable or chain with a hook on the end positioned roughly 4 feet off the floor. At the left side is a hand winch, also known as a "Come Along". That is the tool that sets the tension on the whole procedure of installing the rubber. In the middle is the spacer tool that keeps the tire ends apart and provides the room to work. I hope that helps.
Greg
Thank you, I found the tool thanks for your help
Juan Ignacio Riesco Valenzuela lol is this that was epics personal account?
So do you sell the specialty tire tool as well as the bikes??
I do sell the tiring tools, both the large wheel hand tool as well as the bench mounted small wheel tool. Have a look at my website, www.hiwheel.com in the parts and accessories portion. Or, call me at 510-769-0980. Best time to reach me these days is mornings between 9-11 otherwise I tend to be in the shop or doing errands.
Greg Barron
I know this video is old so im not sure anyone will respond but why wouldnt you just put a plat strip of rubber all the way around the wheels?
Because a flat strip wouldn't roll side to side very well. On a bike, that's kind of important. you would feel the transition every time you changed angles on the wheel.
@@gbarron64 oh i didnt think about that. So where could i buy the rubber and the wire for a 50 inch wheel?
@@gbarron64 and i realize that the transition wouldnt be very smooth but would it still work? Like would it be rideable and wouldnt feel to bad while riding?
to sell ? I want to buy one of these wheels for a project !!
Hooo
Hola quiero ponerme en contacto contigo
Hello Jesus. The best way to contact me is by email. info@hiwheel.com is where you can email me. Regards, Greg Barron
I need some parts
You can call me at 510-769-0980
Anyone else here because of Ron Covell¿? LoL
Funny you should ask about Ron. He just sent me a note.
Good lord and i was cursing when i had to change my mtb tire 😬 what a pain in the ass is this!
Well, it isn't quite as simple as changing a regular bike tire but it's not all that bad.
I'm sure the average rubber tire lasts a decade or more anyway. Unless you are a constant rider. Solid rubber tires were known to last. A friend of mine has them on some early 1900s trucks and the ones he hasn't replaced are very very old.
Офигеть!
glad you like it and hope it helped you.
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