Matthew gives a quick walkthrough of what you'll need in order to start 3D printing your own miniatures. Matthew's 3D printer recommendations: www.miniwargam...
One thing that needs to be known is that there are a variety of filters for respirators. Some are only for dust, to prevent silicosis in the lungs; others are for organic vapors. You're working with organic molecules (it's a carbon based molecule, making it "organic"), so you want the filters for organic vapors. Also, a Vacuum filter can be used to filter IPA after the resin suspended in it has been cured. The filter paper on that is more than capable of filtering out the particles.
One thing you should definitly talk more about is the choice of resin. This is important for miniature printing, because the cheap "normal" resins are very brittle and you'll end up with a lot of broken spears/guns after a couple battles. Tough resins or ABS-like resins are more expensive and sometimes don't print as well, but are a lot more durable. I've settled with Anycubic ABS like pro with a bit of Sirayatech Tenacious mixed in. I can't remember the time I last broke one of my resin miniatures in a situation where a plasic mini would've survived.
Appreciate your video Matthew, even as a non-beginnner, your conversational communication really provides the details and minutia that make the difference to doing something right and understanding why you should do it right. For example gloves, your the first i've heard to advise of the danger of spontaneous allergies to resin. Somone can easily get a drop on their forearm while wearing gloves and have no adverse effects immediately and think they don't need to use them as rigorously or not at all until down the line, boom, proper allergic. Thanks again, like your stuff.
Thank you.This was very helpful as I am now totally convinced not to go for resin 3d printing. Since you showed everything in full I can safely say it is not ideal for my personal situation. Very nice to see your workflow though.
Decided to watch some videos on this because I've always been curious about 3D printing game pieces and how much could be saved by doing it myself. I'm really glad you've highlighted the safety issues with working with resin! I think I'll stick to buying from stores that have already printed the miniatures I want instead, because doing it myself sounds like a big hassle. But it is really cool!
Thanks for the video Matt this is really helpful. I learned the other day printing my first resin. I didn't know to remove the supports before curing and broke the leg off my urbanmech trying to get them off.
Hello there! Thanks a lot for this video tipps. I ordered my first resin printer after using fdm printers for about 3 years now. I definitely will check your videos on a regular basis :) Cheers
I use uv light to cure the resin in it and strain it for reuse. Once its low enough you can leave it out to evaporate or just dump it. I believe cured resin can be disposed of in the trash.
Great video with the exception of your understanding of resolution. 4K is 4K and 8k is 8k regardless of the build plate. A small 4K printer does not print better than a lathe 4K printer. Feauxhammer channel explains this over and over in many videos.
I have had a problem with my Elegoo Mars 3 Pro, where the prints on the left side of the build plate would stick to the bottom of the resin bowl after about 200 layers rather than the plate. What should I change for it to work?
Fantastic video, I have had my Phrozen Sonic Mighty 8k for a while now however have not gotten to printing yet. I want to start, however the fumes safety wise concern me a little as I live in a basement studio and would have it in my living area. Would you think having an airbrushing booth fan running next to the printer would be good enough to vent to fumes to the outside? Also do you think the water-soluble resin would create less toxic fumes?
I have that 3d printer, but I messed up my first two prints somehow. Parts of the plate came away with nothing printing on them, and found that, the second time, it built a little but then that bottom layer fell off the plate and into the resin bed.
How often should you empty the vat of resin in the printer? What’s the best way to clean up a resin spill? If a print fails and it falls off the build plate or I think parts in the vat got built without connecting to the build plate, what should I do? Just bought my first 3D printer for Black Friday
I have to mention a safety story.. I worked in a furniture factory and we had a UV curable topcoat we would use for some pieces of wood.. long story long that stuff got on my clothes, it gave me some type of blistering rash, I was perplexed by the blisters given that I wasn’t in the sun or near the UV machine. Turns out I was nearing anaphylaxis, and I really don’t have many allergies to speak of. So yea be careful with that stuff
How do you know how much resin to fill with ? And if excess can i just leave in there ? Im very green , but cant get a simplified answer on 3d printing is rocket science when its a simple question and answer u would think 🤦🏾
How do you get rid of the alcohol? Presumably the discarded resin can be cured or left on the windowsill and just thrown away. Can it be put in recycle bin?
i cure it in a bin, dump the IPA into another bucket through a filter, cleanout the cured resin gel inside the bin, then poor the IPA through a fine filter back into the bin, now i have effectively recycled my IPA.
So i don't have a garage but i do have a porch with a roof over it. Would that be a reasonable space for resin printing or will the weather hinder it's effectiveness?
You need to have it temperature controlled a little at least. I found that prints were failing when it got just a little too cold in here. You could try it if there is at least something to break the wind.
how strong are 3d modeling miniatures? Would a small Eevee mini would be strong enough to be a functional potato masher as implied behavior. Don't asked for context, I am ill-equipped.
A bit disingenuous there. Chitubox Basic doesn't do supports as well so you'll buy Chitubox Pro. That's just the way things are. You get what you pay ($169/year) for.
camera was all over the place lol, camera at times was not clear, espically on pc......save some money get new cam, go with panosonic.....either than that good vid, but way to long.....
Will probably never do resin. Not worth the health and safety risks just to make miniatures. The amount of hassle, from disposing of toxic materials that can't just be flushed down a drain, to a complicated multi-step process just to get the minis in the first place, resin printing just isn't worth it from a hobby standpoint. FDM printers are getting closer and closer to resin detail and one day we can just push a button and get a good mini like you can with FDM printing.
I, on the other hand, will never do FDM. once you get the hang of resin printing, the process is neither complicated nor long nor dangerous (a well ventilated room is all you need, I've been doing it for years and never felt any irritation anywhere, much less my chest). I even use it for terrain (I have a Mega 8K) and would never go backwards to FDM with those horrible print lines, and it's faster too if you have decently detailed models. but hey, you know your limits and I know mine, to each their own
I, on the other hand, will do both. :) The Bambu Labs printers get rid of 90% of the print lines, print faster, cheaper, and safer. The resin printers beat the snot out of even the best FDM printers for micro details that you need on miniatures and on the smaller pieces of terrain.
@@MWGForge well, I guess I just want my terrain to look as good as my minis, I guess. plus, that's your job, you can afford $3,000-4,500 for 2 or 3 Bambu X1s. nobody is paying me and I'm more than happy to put my Mega 8K to use for anything I need with wonderful results
@pgabrieli Not sure how needing at least three major pieces of equipment, buckets of toxic chemicals that no ventilation system can ever 100% clear, that same ventilation system, and toxic waste disposal, isn't complicated. You might be used to it and good at it, but that doesn't make it simple. Especially compared to just pushing a button on an FDM printer. The difference in ease of use is incredibly steep. FDM printers are getting much better about lines. My Anycubic Kobra 2 can print at .05 layer lines, same resolution as resin. It obviously can't do the same fine detail as resin, but I've printed plenty of things where there are no layer lines.
dude, to have the same resolution, a 4K build plate should be FOUR TIMES SMALLER than an 8K resolution, not half! 4K is half the resolution of 8K on BOTH axis, so 4x difference in XY size!
@@MWGForge it can't be. a 8K screen is about 32M pixels. if the build plate is half the size, to achieve the same resolution as the bigger 8K printer, it would require 16M pixels. a 4K screen is only 8.4M, so no. a 4K printer with half the build plate of a 8K printer will NOT have the same resolution. sorry, it's math, can't argue with it
@@pgabrieli I understood him just fine. He says "half the size" but the aspect ratio hasn't changed, so he means half in both X and Y. But you're also not being clear in your own language, talking about size and meaning length at one point and area at another. The plate that's ½ the length in both dimensions is ¼ the area.
One thing that needs to be known is that there are a variety of filters for respirators. Some are only for dust, to prevent silicosis in the lungs; others are for organic vapors. You're working with organic molecules (it's a carbon based molecule, making it "organic"), so you want the filters for organic vapors.
Also, a Vacuum filter can be used to filter IPA after the resin suspended in it has been cured. The filter paper on that is more than capable of filtering out the particles.
One thing you should definitly talk more about is the choice of resin. This is important for miniature printing, because the cheap "normal" resins are very brittle and you'll end up with a lot of broken spears/guns after a couple battles. Tough resins or ABS-like resins are more expensive and sometimes don't print as well, but are a lot more durable. I've settled with Anycubic ABS like pro with a bit of Sirayatech Tenacious mixed in. I can't remember the time I last broke one of my resin miniatures in a situation where a plasic mini would've survived.
I definitely want to try that! I'll check it out.
Appreciate your video Matthew, even as a non-beginnner, your conversational communication really provides the details and minutia that make the difference to doing something right and understanding why you should do it right. For example gloves, your the first i've heard to advise of the danger of spontaneous allergies to resin. Somone can easily get a drop on their forearm while wearing gloves and have no adverse effects immediately and think they don't need to use them as rigorously or not at all until down the line, boom, proper allergic.
Thanks again, like your stuff.
Thanks for the kind comments!
Thank you, best beginner tutorial I’ve seen this far. I’m saving this video to help me get started in printing.
Thanks for this video, I've been toying with adding a resin printer to my arsenal but was unsure of the processes. This was really informational!
Thank you.This was very helpful as I am now totally convinced not to go for resin 3d printing. Since you showed everything in full I can safely say it is not ideal for my personal situation. Very nice to see your workflow though.
Decided to watch some videos on this because I've always been curious about 3D printing game pieces and how much could be saved by doing it myself. I'm really glad you've highlighted the safety issues with working with resin! I think I'll stick to buying from stores that have already printed the miniatures I want instead, because doing it myself sounds like a big hassle. But it is really cool!
Thanks for the video! Very interesting to learn about the different processes.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks Matt, another great video, looks like quite a process but the end results looks well worth it, looking forward to the rest.
Amazing, saved, if I ever get the energy for a hobby I'll come back to this haha
Excellent video, thank you! I’m just starting to think about getting a resin printer and you video clears lots of questions!
Thanks for the video Matt this is really helpful. I learned the other day printing my first resin. I didn't know to remove the supports before curing and broke the leg off my urbanmech trying to get them off.
Great video. I’m debating my first resin (first 3D) printer and appreciate the breakdown.
Glad it was helpful!
Hello there!
Thanks a lot for this video tipps. I ordered my first resin printer after using fdm printers for about 3 years now.
I definitely will check your videos on a regular basis :)
Cheers
What do you do with the leftover junk resin after you've cleaned your alcohol? Are there any ways to safely dispose of it?
I use uv light to cure the resin in it and strain it for reuse. Once its low enough you can leave it out to evaporate or just dump it. I believe cured resin can be disposed of in the trash.
Leave in the sun until completely hardened then throw away. It’s only toxic in liquid form
Cure it before you dispose of it
Re use, Leave the whole container in the Sun, all of the resin will cure and then filter. BAM fresh alcohol
@@KingUsykyou have to cure it in order to filter it
best idea ever teaching videos love them that will help much for me
Such a great video, thank you!
Great video with the exception of your understanding of resolution. 4K is 4K and 8k is 8k regardless of the build plate. A small 4K printer does not print better than a lathe 4K printer. Feauxhammer channel explains this over and over in many videos.
I have had a problem with my Elegoo Mars 3 Pro, where the prints on the left side of the build plate would stick to the bottom of the resin bowl after about 200 layers rather than the plate. What should I change for it to work?
ok. which one will be the best for BJD dolls. to print 16" dolls?
I have the same 🙋🏼♀️ question. Which one is the best for BJ’s dolls ????????
awesome video. Nicely done
Fantastic video, I have had my Phrozen Sonic Mighty 8k for a while now however have not gotten to printing yet. I want to start, however the fumes safety wise concern me a little as I live in a basement studio and would have it in my living area. Would you think having an airbrushing booth fan running next to the printer would be good enough to vent to fumes to the outside? Also do you think the water-soluble resin would create less toxic fumes?
Ive seen people use plant grow bags for their printers to help with the fumes. You can get pretty crazy with a setup.
I'd think that a triple wash is probably overkill for someone with one printer but I've recently moved to a similar two stage setup.
Appreciate your video Matthew,
Glad it was helpful!
Really want to know how Water Soluble works. I can't imagine using alcohol with the smell and cost being a huge barrier.
I have that 3d printer, but I messed up my first two prints somehow. Parts of the plate came away with nothing printing on them, and found that, the second time, it built a little but then that bottom layer fell off the plate and into the resin bed.
What do you recommend for a scanner to upload miniatures?
How often should you empty the vat of resin in the printer? What’s the best way to clean up a resin spill? If a print fails and it falls off the build plate or I think parts in the vat got built without connecting to the build plate, what should I do? Just bought my first 3D printer for Black Friday
Do you need to change your gloves when you are touching things after touching resin? Like if you use the scraper, etc.
Thank you for an excellent introductory video. Subscribed )O(
if you use water curable resin do you still need some alchol and a mask?
I have to mention a safety story.. I worked in a furniture factory and we had a UV curable topcoat we would use for some pieces of wood.. long story long that stuff got on my clothes, it gave me some type of blistering rash, I was perplexed by the blisters given that I wasn’t in the sun or near the UV machine. Turns out I was nearing anaphylaxis, and I really don’t have many allergies to speak of. So yea be careful with that stuff
Awesome 🎉🎉
Thanks 🤗
Fantastic video liked and subbed
How do you know how much resin to fill with ? And if excess can i just leave in there ? Im very green , but cant get a simplified answer on 3d printing is rocket science when its a simple question and answer u would think 🤦🏾
How do you get rid of the alcohol? Presumably the discarded resin can be cured or left on the windowsill and just thrown away. Can it be put in recycle bin?
i cure it in a bin, dump the IPA into another bucket through a filter, cleanout the cured resin gel inside the bin, then poor the IPA through a fine filter back into the bin, now i have effectively recycled my IPA.
i banned alcohols from my workshop ever since discovering water wash resins XD
i would like to see how you recycle the alcohol please
100s of dollars of alcohol!?
You can buy big multi gallon buckets of it for very little.
Do you buy it in the little bottles?
So i don't have a garage but i do have a porch with a roof over it. Would that be a reasonable space for resin printing or will the weather hinder it's effectiveness?
You need to have it temperature controlled a little at least. I found that prints were failing when it got just a little too cold in here. You could try it if there is at least something to break the wind.
how strong are 3d modeling miniatures? Would a small Eevee mini would be strong enough to be a functional potato masher as implied behavior. Don't asked for context, I am ill-equipped.
A bit disingenuous there. Chitubox Basic doesn't do supports as well so you'll buy Chitubox Pro. That's just the way things are. You get what you pay ($169/year) for.
Do you have a ballpark price of what it costs for each miniature? What about total time involved? Thanks man
Less than 30 cents a mini, build time depends on height so you can jam like 6-8 on there and have it done within 4-5 hours
hhmm so cant have in my office on my desk and not ideal in my dark loft with no windows.. hhmm
Why does the smell not go away even if you cure
It definitely should.
VOCs are not that bad. Bunch of babies
camera was all over the place lol, camera at times was not clear, espically on pc......save some money get new cam, go with panosonic.....either than that good vid, but way to long.....
Will probably never do resin.
Not worth the health and safety risks just to make miniatures.
The amount of hassle, from disposing of toxic materials that can't just be flushed down a drain, to a complicated multi-step process just to get the minis in the first place, resin printing just isn't worth it from a hobby standpoint.
FDM printers are getting closer and closer to resin detail and one day we can just push a button and get a good mini like you can with FDM printing.
I, on the other hand, will never do FDM. once you get the hang of resin printing, the process is neither complicated nor long nor dangerous (a well ventilated room is all you need, I've been doing it for years and never felt any irritation anywhere, much less my chest). I even use it for terrain (I have a Mega 8K) and would never go backwards to FDM with those horrible print lines, and it's faster too if you have decently detailed models. but hey, you know your limits and I know mine, to each their own
I, on the other hand, will do both. :)
The Bambu Labs printers get rid of 90% of the print lines, print faster, cheaper, and safer.
The resin printers beat the snot out of even the best FDM printers for micro details that you need on miniatures and on the smaller pieces of terrain.
@@MWGForge well, I guess I just want my terrain to look as good as my minis, I guess. plus, that's your job, you can afford $3,000-4,500 for 2 or 3 Bambu X1s. nobody is paying me and I'm more than happy to put my Mega 8K to use for anything I need with wonderful results
@pgabrieli
Not sure how needing at least three major pieces of equipment, buckets of toxic chemicals that no ventilation system can ever 100% clear, that same ventilation system, and toxic waste disposal, isn't complicated. You might be used to it and good at it, but that doesn't make it simple.
Especially compared to just pushing a button on an FDM printer. The difference in ease of use is incredibly steep.
FDM printers are getting much better about lines. My Anycubic Kobra 2 can print at .05 layer lines, same resolution as resin. It obviously can't do the same fine detail as resin, but I've printed plenty of things where there are no layer lines.
@@paladinpariah325 if you're happy, more power to you. I would never be able to settle for the FDM quality, that's all
WHAT! You mean you don't, or have never put 70% alcohol on your wounds? Alcohol smell doesn't bother me!
dude, to have the same resolution, a 4K build plate should be FOUR TIMES SMALLER than an 8K resolution, not half! 4K is half the resolution of 8K on BOTH axis, so 4x difference in XY size!
I believe they are half the size in one direction, so they are about the same resolution comparatively.
@@MWGForge it can't be. a 8K screen is about 32M pixels. if the build plate is half the size, to achieve the same resolution as the bigger 8K printer, it would require 16M pixels. a 4K screen is only 8.4M, so no. a 4K printer with half the build plate of a 8K printer will NOT have the same resolution. sorry, it's math, can't argue with it
@@pekirt not really: what he said is that a 4K printer with a build plate half the size of the one on the 8K printer have the same resolution
@@pgabrieli I understood him just fine. He says "half the size" but the aspect ratio hasn't changed, so he means half in both X and Y. But you're also not being clear in your own language, talking about size and meaning length at one point and area at another. The plate that's ½ the length in both dimensions is ¼ the area.