Making Painting White Easy - HC 356
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- čas přidán 29. 06. 2024
- In this Hobby Cheating Tutorial, I take you through 3 simple tips to make painting white easy and interesting. Hope you enjoy!
#warhammer #miniaturepainting
0:00 Intro
2:20 Painting White Basics
4:20 Discussion
5:50 Building Up White
8:30 Finishing
9:12 Outro
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Revisiting this to choose colours for painting a whole bunch of white. What a resource hobby cheating vids form, what an authentic authority Vince is.
Such kudos
Few tutorials on how to paint white give such a convincing result, and even fewer are as easy an well-explained as yours. Thank you Vince!
Thank you for making this guide. I now have a better understanding of color and goodish looking models. really helpful
Glad I could help!
I'm often mix very small amounts of ink with HB titanium white to get the tint I want. I also love to use the same trick with slightly more ink for drybrushing.
This is yet another excellent tutorial on white from you,Sir, and each time I learn something valuable to use on a future figure. Thank you for explaining so clearly and demonstrating on your figure how it all works together. I very much appreciate your time and effort!
Awesome, thank you!
I've always heard that the key to white is to not paint white. Seeing in action makes it easier to understand. Thank you!
Paint a light gray with a favored slight tint, and keep highlighting until your brain says it looks white - sortof!
Its always great to see a video on white one of the toughest paints to work with imo
Hey Vince, just tried the tips you shared in this video and I'm *SO* happy with the results! Thank you so much!
Great breakdown! I have a cleric I have been wanting to do in white for awhile so this helps understand the concept a lot better. Thanks again, Vince!!
Vincey V helping make me less of a terrible painter one video at a time. Thanks Vince!
Thank you always for your always very encouraging Tutorials, Vince, your videos gave me the green light to not worry and slap paint on something and enjoy the process.
Great to hear!
Great instruction, simple as usual!! Thanks!!
Thanks. I have been enlightened.
Will use this very soon.
I suggested this and you did it. Thank you!
Lovely Vince, thank you.
My pleasure! Glad you enjoyed it brother. :)
Thanks again Vince! Appreciate your consistency!
My pleasure!
Always such great information.
I do something similar with a light gray as my baseline for my World Eaters power armor. Then I just have to white the raised surfaces and the gray creates that shading while coding everything as white.
Vince's ability to upload a video at the same time as I need that advice is uncanny. Cheers!
Phenomenal video! I felt like the lesson was high impact and I walked away with a good amount of new knowledge
Glad it was helpful!
6:02 Have done a lot of tests comparing the different whites I have. HBA Titanium White from Sminke covers about the same as Vallejo Dead White and Vallejo Model Color White. So I would argue that the pigment density is about the same as those paints. Both Pro Acryl Titanium White and Kimera Kolors White outperform the HBA when it comes to how well they cover. HBA's have something that Pro Acryl and Kimera Kolors don't have and that is volume, which can be useful for certain applications.
“Credible” is a very good word for all the situations with environmentally induced variation. I'm going to think more in terms of credibility.
Short and sweet!
Thanks for this vid!
Excellent, thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
Vince the master! Great lesson!
Thank you kindly!
You are a very good teacher.
Thank you! 😃
This is great Vince! I bought some dinosaur minis a while back and wanted to paint them like quetzals but I was getting frustrated with the white parts. Thanks!
Larry would look good in white.
One thing I like about HBA's is that they can compensate for how thin other paints are (inks, contrast, premade washes etc.) mixing them with thin paints can give you regular paint consistency.
Return of the Pimp Ratsassins!
Great video, thank you.
Glad you liked it!
I tend to use a pale blue grey & work up to white & use Vallejo pale grey wash. Have tried a creamy brown version but wasn’t so happy with that. I may now try a pale green now & wouldn’t of thought of a red grey for shadows. Thanks for the tips Vince.
Great stuff friend 👏 👍
Thank you 👍
Thanks!
You bet!
Very helpful content my dude. Helping me do a nice cloak for a secret santa for my flgs :)
Glad to hear it!
I have used Rakarth flesh - pallid wych - schminke for a while now which works decent for me. I think I'd like to try that final glaze now.
Good progression.
Thanks for the shadow re-enforcement step!! The copper piping really sells!!!!(my dad was a plumber!!lol)
Right on
Hi Vince, your tutorials, especially the ones concerning colors, are real eye-openers. Any chances for 'Exploring Colors' deep dive about white? Best wishes
Absolutely!
Oils have been my solution to paint white elements by blending white paint into my shadows smoothly and without chalky frustrations. Works like a charm!
I was wondering if oil paint would be chalky. I'm currently painting...a space marine bike, I forget the exact name sorry I'm a noob, and want to paint it white with orange and green accent colors.
I figured I would base it in sandstone, mid tone mix bone white into the sandstone and pure bone up to a pure white.... should I go with a oil paint for the pure white?
@@thomasgross8289 maybe I should clarify.. If I'm painting something like a white jacket or armour I will do the entire item using oil paints. That way I can put pure white in the highest highlight and an off-white shadow colour in the recesses and then blend them together effortlessly since oils take days to dry. Then I can switch back to acrylics for other parts if I feel like it.
ProAcryl's transparent white has been great for those sticking with acrylics. Not chalky, and it pretty much is a bottled glaze of white. I love it.
I just bought some stuff from AK 3th Gen. White, Off White, Grey White and Ivory.
Holy smokes those whites smoke everything ive used so far. And im even leaving good ol Corax White out of this.
Really smooth and easy to use!
Agreed, they're great.
Im not sure if this is a no brainer but i just want to say.
If your working possibly in a dark room in the evening under a worklamp and that white paint just have this wierd yellow or blue undertones then check your bulb, as with everything else most lightbulbs dont have a natural light tone in them, for comfort and other reasons.
Using the contrasting color for the shadows is such a neat idea, I've never heard of that before, it makes sense. Looking forward to painting my next Lumineth breastplate (sorry Vince ;) )
Glad it was helpful!
Omg omg omg omg thankyou
I’ve been telling people for years that the best way to paint white is not to paint white. In the same vain as you’ve explained here. Same goes for black, yellow, and a handful of other colors. Im Also big on adding colors into the mix.
I've got a schminki HBA and struggle to thin it out down to be a little smoother. Do you just mix in water and draw it out on the pallet or work with it out of the tube directly? Thanks for all of these awesome videos Vince!
Water on the palette and thinning a little, then mostly smoothing *on* the model itself. you just feather it out (spread the edge thin)
Great video as ever Vince. I was just wondering what your thoughts on environmental effects of white colours are and if you would paint them more dramatically verses other colours due to the reflective qualities of white? I can't wait for the next video or wait to see all those Skaven together.
So the basic answer is, you should rarely use true white. I almost always use high value colored paints and pastels as my universal high highlight to set the environmental tone.
Soul light grey over white = the way
Have you played with the ProAcryl transparent white paint? It was a game changing paint for me. It can get the transitions from whatever your gray/offgray is up to your brightest whites really smoothly. It can do sheer white. I absolutely love it. Often white paints get chalky while trying to get those transitions, but not this one!
Yep, also a great option.
Great video was thinking of doing this for white scars would u suggest anything for them differently
Nope, this will take a while for them, but this would absolutely work.
Vince, would you consider doing a breakdown on facial lighting, volumes and how to correctly interpret and place them? Particularly on 35mm or larger figures. Just an idea.
THis video here might have what you need - czcams.com/video/GOugaIEelhI/video.html
Hey Vince. Talking of white, I remember you saying a while ago you use a mix of light bulbs in your hobby space, with varying colour temperatures, to give a more accurate representation of whites and colours. This makes sense, the inaccurate colour rendering of each bulb would be smoothed out and the spectral gaps filled in by the other bulbs.
How did you calibrate your bulb collection? Did you add all the colour temperatures together then divide down to get the mean? If so, what mean temperature should I shoot for?
Cheers!
That is way to complicated. I have two that are daylight balanced, one warm and one cold. :)
👍👍
WHITE!!!!
Looks really cool!!! Would vallejo panzer aces yellowish rust work instead of reddish grey?
Sure, no issue, anything with some hue.
@@VinceVenturella just tried what you describes on the video...works a charm! Cheers!
It's so clever, yet, so abstract. There doesn't seem to be any rules to follow to be able to work good painting out for oneself
It's very true, there are just guidelines.
Great video, really useful! An unrelated question, what are your thoughts on DIY terrain? I have been exploring it in the last week, it is fun, easy and cheap, but I would like to know what is your opinion anyway.
Love DIY terrain, it's great fun, you can start DIY and buy like pre-made greebles.
Hey Vince, I'm actually painting white horses and ist a pain in the a. Normally I would use my airbrush but I cant use it at the moment. The biggest problem for me is to get a nice fade from the shadows to white on the bigger areas. The model's look good so far but white will still be my archenemie of all colors.😂
Glaze the gray into the white, not the other way around. Glazing the white often give you a kind chalky finish. So make the white highlight a bit too big and use your gray , thinned, to start the transition. Then in the overlap, use an even thinner gray, where it comes into contact with the white to smooth it out.
I agree with Chris, though yeah, on those large flats, moving to wet blending or something can also help if you don't have the airbrush as your option (the preferred one).
I'm challenging myself by painting a large, wavy, long head of white hair in the presence of green object source lighting. Do you think it is better to use green-grey as a base & red as the white hue, or red-grey & green as the white hue (as per this video)? I've been going back and forth in my head about which combo to use on this. On the OSL, green has to be the highlights and therefore green would be the white hue, but I'm not entirely sure about what to use on the non-OSL side. If I were to use green as the white hue highlight again on the non-OSL side, it might diminish the OSL effect, but using red-white hue as the highlight might destroy the ability to read it as white. I'm curious to hear your opinion on the matter and would appreciate any advice and explanation you could provide.
That’s a very complicated situation to imagine without a reference, but simple answer, when OSL is effecting white, it becomes that color.‘so if your green is cold, it would be your highlight and lead to some warmer red influenced shadows (but subtly) so that’s where I would go. On the other side, if that’s not influenced by the light, then you want to reflect the temperature and colors of whatever your total ambient lighting situation is.
I'm planning to paint my warp spiders white and blue like a dnd phase spider. I plan t use my oil paints but I don't have a red, can I go with the standard universal highlight colors of fleshtone and blue in the shadows?
Yep, I think that should be fine, it’s still integrating the hue, getting the color in there is the goal.
I have heard you discuss warm shadow, cold highlights and the opposite cold shadows, warm highlights.
It looks good since I started using the concept but is there ever a time to go against that?
I have seen a few more "artistic" renderings on Instagram where they break the rule, like monochromatic and in OSL places.
I know that is abstract but for me there is one place I break the rule and it seems to work, on my Ultramarine army. I don't paint the symbols and white portions pure white. I start with a cold grey building up with heavy body acrylic white and it really looks good, at least to my eye.
When I try to go warm, with light an offwhite yellow or offwhite orange it does not look good to my eye. Sorry for such an abstract question but it is painting afterall.
BTW I haven't been painting my armies for a while enjoying non-wargame models and using other color to just enjoy the hobby for the past couple years then I will drop a wargame mini in every 5 or 6 projects. Cheers.
Thanks again for these great vids.
Sure, you can always break the rules. I do it as well sometimes. The value means a lot more than the subtle hues, so if you feel it's going to really add to the situation, there is no reason you can't break it.
Where does this and shading video skaven come from? Those are some awesome sculpts
This is the underworlds warband, the previous one is the new deathmaster.
Does ionrach skin (possibly mixed down a bit) count as a something similar to faded green?
Yep, that would likely work.
Hi Vince! I've got a plague surgeon who I want to give a white robe. What's a good shadow color for the white that will be a good compliment to that Death Guard Green?
Something like a purple influence or deep blue influence can work well.
Vince, what paints can you recommend as an alternative for the reddish grey?
Any mid tone warm grey will work.
@@VinceVenturella thank you! BTW, excellent video as always 😀
Would something like Rakarth Flesh be an adequate substitute for the Reddish Gray you used here? I'm not interested in buying any more paints from another range--I'd rather work with what I have for the time being, which is Vallejo, P3, and Citadel. P3 has a wonderful color called Sickly Skin that might work well as an alternative to the Faded Green color you use because it's essentially a white, but it has elements of gray and green in there that renders it dingy enough to work as a mid tone in a white scheme.
Yep, that would be just fine.
Would this technique also work for storm trooper armour?
It certainly could, but it might be a lot depending on the number of storm troopers.
No intro-outro theme song? What happened? My brain missed the usual experience ;)
Intro song is still there, but yes, I did forget the outro music. :)
Any chance for painting white using contrast?
You'll see a little of that in a future video, but there you have to start with something pure white and bring everything down.
Wouldn’t blue be better then red
It would make it cold, just depends on the temperatures you want. :)
Do you still add valljeo gloss varnish to white? I picked up new vallejo gloss varnish and it is not same recipe. Does not make white paint smooth anymore.
Haven't tried any new recipe, you could always use something like their metal varnish, that should have the same properties.
@@VinceVenturella Thanks. With the heavy body acrylic white you just use white to thin?
@@KerfluffinMcWooly Ink or water depending on the goals.
@@VinceVenturella Thanks. I meant so spell water and not white.
Obligatory engagement comment. All hail the algorithm!!!
All hail!
Where can you get these colors?
At 4:20, Vince explains this.
Ahaha, thank you, my mistake
@@beatricehealy6351 no problem! Vince often says the exact paints don't matter, you can always make substitutions.
I'll add to this, that we can get so caught up with following a recipe, we forget that we're making art.
Recipes do not matter! We don’t paint like Vince so his tools and recipes are not the answer to becoming better. They might help but the results come from failures!
@@prickswithstix1113 indeed. We only need to stay relatively consistent within our own collections, and even then, small variations in hue won't be noticeable. A mini is a 3d shape that will cast some shadow of it's own, to a degree, so just the shape of each model will affect how it looks and so will mask small inconsistencies.
this would be so much more helpful if the white balance on my monitor wasn't garbage
That hurts.