Suggestion: Citric Acid to strip. Takes overnight to work. Heat with a torch on a steel cookie sheet until blue. Dump into a tin can with beeswax. I also add Johnson’s paste wax to my beeswax in a 50/50 mixture. Nice finish, less toxic stripper, probably more like how an old blacksmith made hinge should look in my humble opinion. Cheers! Whipple
Another step to add to make it even darker is to heat your hardware up to a dull red colour-right after it turns blue. Then quench it in oil of some sort. Doesn't matter exactly what, I used vegetable oil. Did this for my Dutch tool chest that I'm currently in the middle of building
@@MJ-nb1qn Ah yes! Boiled linseed oil. I've seen that done before by Alec Steele. I even had some on hand when I did it. My shop wouldn't have smelt like a McDonalds kitchen if I had remembered...
Just be sure to work outdoors or have authentic, plain old BLO. The common hardware store variety contains toxic (or at least noxious) metallic drying agents. If quenching metal in oil the rule of thumb is good ventilation AND a natural oil, or specially formulated quenching oil.
i find if i’m cleaning a lot of metal parts that i don’t want to rust but might not want to oil right away for some reason, quickly rinsing in denatured alcohol helps them dry off before rust can form. especially in small joints like a hinge or if i’m cleaning bearings.
Pretty interesting process, Joshua! Thanks a lot for the tips! 😃 I've been thinking about getting some blueing (or something like that) as well... It makes the metal black with a layer of protection, you know? It should look pretty nice for some projects as well! 😊 Anyway, happy new year! And stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Hi, Josh. I have just discovered your channel. Great ideas. Speaking of ideas: At 4:49, your chiseling tool (name unknown) seems to rock a bit, on the edge of the work piece. Might I suggest, a quick jig, to keep it steady? Two pieces of 2x4, joined by a piece of 3/4 whatever, at each end, (on top) to keep them level with the edge you are working. The 2x4 on the side you are cutting into will have a piece cut out, longer and deeper than the hinge pocket you are cutting. Now your tool will not rock.
I wonder if this would work for brass hinges and screws... I’m forever stropping the lacquer off of brass which is fairly labour intensive, but well worth it to my eye. I’ve also heard of boiling hinges in water to strip lacquer Not exactly what you’re talking about here I’ll admit :)
I really like your idea of using proper slotted screws, if there is one thing that makes a "traditional" job look awful that is the use of awful phillips/pozi screws, they not only look awful, but as they were designed to slip when torqueing down usually have ugly burrs on them, I would run the flame over the hinges and drop them in oil for an antique look, phillips/pozi drive screws are for armatures to use as they are usually incapable of keeping the driver straight and square on a proper screw.
They’re not for amateurs, although I agree they are not as pretty. They are a more evolved, harder to make screw...superior in most ways, just like a star head is superior to Phillips.
Nope, that doesn't make a difference here. The reason they're a bit proud is the screw size. A #5 screw would sit flush, but it sometimes pops out. So I'd rather have them a bit proud and not slip.
@@WoodAndShop Try using a metal cutting countersink to enlarge the hole on the hinge to match the screws you're using. Take some pride in what you make.
John, no need to be rude. I take a lot of pride in my work. But there is an incorrect modern view that antique furniture makers were meticulous about every detail. If you look at many antique furniture pieces you'll discover that certain things mattered to them and certain things do not. A flush screw head did not typically matter. Also, they did not smooth the bottoms or drawers or the backs of case pieces like modern hobyists do. Go to some antique stores and you'll see...especially with the country furniture, which is my favorite.
Really cool tip Josh, looks waaaay better for not a lot of effort! I wonder if the same technique would work on the yellow "brass" hinges you can buy at the big box store. Shame about the issues you had with your lavalier mic at the end there.
After stripping I clean, rinse and move to an electrolyte bath using a copper anode to plate the hinges and screws. Finish off with a burnishing and oxidizing for aged look
Chris Schwarz uses powdered citric acid dissolved in water to remove the zinc coating. If I remember correctly, Chris demonstrates this method on one of his DVDs on building an English tool chest. I have used this method successfully, usually takes a half-hour to an hour to remove the zinc. Don’t be concerned about “citric acid” people who can vegetables use it.
Personally I hate slotted screws. To me it's like listening to an 8 track player instead of Spotify on my phone. Nice technique for antiquing the hinges though.
@@453421abcdefg12345 I'm gonna guess that's a legitimate question. Spotify is a music service. For under $11 a month I can download virtually any song ,add it to a number of playlist (l have probably 20 or so on my phone), and listen to it without commercials WHEREVER I'm at. Cheers !
Have to keep those important customers happy. I have a few in my house hold . Thanks for sharing
You're welcome Frank!
Thank you for this quick tip
After removing the zinc coating, use Brownell's Oxpho-Blue Pro. Cold Blue. Just follow directions on the bottle.
Never considered darkening plain hinges for an old fashioned look. Glad you shared this technique. Thanks to the commenters too for their input.
Suggestion: Citric Acid to strip. Takes overnight to work. Heat with a torch on a steel cookie sheet until blue. Dump into a tin can with beeswax. I also add Johnson’s paste wax to my beeswax in a 50/50 mixture. Nice finish, less toxic stripper, probably more like how an old blacksmith made hinge should look in my humble opinion.
Cheers!
Whipple
Another step to add to make it even darker is to heat your hardware up to a dull red colour-right after it turns blue. Then quench it in oil of some sort. Doesn't matter exactly what, I used vegetable oil. Did this for my Dutch tool chest that I'm currently in the middle of building
@@MJ-nb1qn Ah yes! Boiled linseed oil. I've seen that done before by Alec Steele. I even had some on hand when I did it. My shop wouldn't have smelt like a McDonalds kitchen if I had remembered...
Just be sure to work outdoors or have authentic, plain old BLO. The common hardware store variety contains toxic (or at least noxious) metallic drying agents. If quenching metal in oil the rule of thumb is good ventilation AND a natural oil, or specially formulated quenching oil.
I like that you clock the screws. Good Job!
Linseed oil is great for stopping the rust, it dries clear, and can be put on super thinly.
i find if i’m cleaning a lot of metal parts that i don’t want to rust but might not want to oil right away for some reason, quickly rinsing in denatured alcohol helps them dry off before rust can form. especially in small joints like a hinge or if i’m cleaning bearings.
Great tip Jake!
Never heard of toilet bowl cleaner except for its intended purpose. Great idea!
Back-tracked to find this one...the hinges I want(back home in the states,) are $25 the pair; good find your video....cheers...rr Normandy, France
Hi Joshua, I thought I had heard all the ways of turning things black but I had not heard of that one. Thanks for the info and keep up the good work
Thanks John!
cool tip
Pretty interesting process, Joshua! Thanks a lot for the tips! 😃
I've been thinking about getting some blueing (or something like that) as well... It makes the metal black with a layer of protection, you know? It should look pretty nice for some projects as well! 😊
Anyway, happy new year! And stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Very creative solution!
Great little tip! Thanks!
You're welcome Joseph!
Thanks for the nice tips
Interesting!!! Thank You!!! Great Info!!!! 🤔👍😎
Looking forward seeing the next video!!
Pretty interesting. I did the same process with white vinegar and hot bluing for screws to repair the case of an old HiFi ampfifier which is black.
Hi, Josh. I have just discovered your channel. Great ideas.
Speaking of ideas: At 4:49, your chiseling tool (name unknown)
seems to rock a bit, on the edge of the work piece.
Might I suggest, a quick jig, to keep it steady?
Two pieces of 2x4, joined by a piece of 3/4 whatever, at each end, (on top)
to keep them level with the edge you are working. The 2x4 on the side
you are cutting into will have a piece cut out, longer and deeper than
the hinge pocket you are cutting. Now your tool will not rock.
Very cool tip. Thanks.
Love it! Beautiful children
Thanks Clark!
Thanks for sharing. Wondering about long term study, say after a few years or so and if the new 'finish' lasts without rusting.
Strip the hinges the way you suggest and then submerse in Evaporust for an hour. Remove, dry off, and your ready to go.
I wonder if this would work for brass hinges and screws... I’m forever stropping the lacquer off of brass which is fairly labour intensive, but well worth it to my eye. I’ve also heard of boiling hinges in water to strip lacquer
Not exactly what you’re talking about here I’ll admit :)
I really like your idea of using proper slotted screws, if there is one thing that makes a "traditional" job look awful that is the use of awful phillips/pozi screws, they not only look awful, but as they were designed to slip when torqueing down usually have ugly burrs on them, I would run the flame over the hinges and drop them in oil for an antique look, phillips/pozi drive screws are for armatures to use as they are usually incapable of keeping the driver straight and square on a proper screw.
They’re not for amateurs, although I agree they are not as pretty. They are a more evolved, harder to make screw...superior in most ways, just like a star head is superior to Phillips.
Use a countersink when drilling for the hinge screws, so that the screws will be flush with the hinge.
Nope, that doesn't make a difference here. The reason they're a bit proud is the screw size. A #5 screw would sit flush, but it sometimes pops out. So I'd rather have them a bit proud and not slip.
@@WoodAndShop Try using a metal cutting countersink to enlarge the hole on the hinge to match the screws you're using. Take some pride in what you make.
John, no need to be rude. I take a lot of pride in my work. But there is an incorrect modern view that antique furniture makers were meticulous about every detail. If you look at many antique furniture pieces you'll discover that certain things mattered to them and certain things do not. A flush screw head did not typically matter. Also, they did not smooth the bottoms or drawers or the backs of case pieces like modern hobyists do. Go to some antique stores and you'll see...especially with the country furniture, which is my favorite.
The processed pieces don't look black. Did I miss something?
It's not meant to look black. That would be forged. But you can use a blow torch if needed.
Really cool tip Josh, looks waaaay better for not a lot of effort! I wonder if the same technique would work on the yellow "brass" hinges you can buy at the big box store.
Shame about the issues you had with your lavalier mic at the end there.
LOL. My mic came loose and was rubbing on my jacket.
After stripping I clean, rinse and move to an electrolyte bath using a copper anode to plate the hinges and screws. Finish off with a burnishing and oxidizing for aged look
Nice tip!
Chris Schwarz uses powdered citric acid dissolved in water to remove the zinc coating. If I remember correctly, Chris demonstrates this method on one of his DVDs on building an English tool chest. I have used this method successfully, usually takes a half-hour to an hour to remove the zinc. Don’t be concerned about “citric acid” people who can vegetables use it.
Yup, that's another method. Also good for rust removal.
Very cool tip! If I'm not mistaken you can get "the works" at dollar tree for a buck! Not sure if they have those stores near you though.
Ooh, I'm going to try the Dollar Tree! Walmart and Lowe's stopped carrying it. Big Lots has it.
Great tip Joshua. How do you get the cool darker hue to the hardware?
Thanks! A propane torch.
@@WoodAndShop GENIUS!
Rub on cold bluing solution used for guns....gives the deep dark black of oxidized iron.
I throw them in a coffee can and put them in a charcoal fire.
Русский язык пожалуйста !!!!???
Personally I hate slotted screws. To me it's like listening to an 8 track player instead of Spotify on my phone. Nice technique for antiquing the hinges though.
twoweary:- What on earth is "spotify" some new virus ?
😆
@@453421abcdefg12345 I'm gonna guess that's a legitimate question. Spotify is a music service. For under $11 a month I can download virtually any song ,add it to a number of playlist (l have probably 20 or so on my phone), and listen to it without commercials WHEREVER I'm at. Cheers !