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Brake Disc change out. - 2010 DEFENDER - (Technical video)
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- čas přidán 18. 04. 2024
- This is not a traditional episode. This is a bonus technical video. Step by step. Changing our brake discs on a 2010 Land Rover Defender Puma.
Join us as we travel the world overland, exploring the cultures and traditions of all the countries we visit.
In our Land Rover Defender camper which is our full time home we will take you rock climbing, hiking and exploring across all the continents on this planet.
Good solid job. Love the way you explain what and how you’re doing - Both you and Stephy amaze me every time ! Love from Aix en Provence !
Beautiful Aix! We did a multi pitch climb up the side of St Victoire many years ago.
@@GrizzlyNbearOverland Nice one- still a lot of people climbing there !
Fascinating video. Very interesting.
We like technical video's 😊
Les mains dans la mécanique me rappelle des souvenirs lointains. Bravo Leigh tu n’hésites pas. Maintenant le Land n’a plus de secret pour toi ainsi qu’à toi Stephy. Bonne route. 👏👍🇫🇷
I got to say, I equally enjoy the vehicle maintenance videos. Cheers!
Very cool! I'd say mesmerizing to see all the job. Thanks for sharing!
Your rig work videos are always very informative and entertaining . Showing the total work and up keep to a over landing rig . Cheers again for showing the total real life of a over landing couple . Thanks again from Steve Stott in Sutherlin Oregon U.S.A. :) :) 🌍🍻😁👍🏼
Thank you so much Steve 😊
@@GrizzlyNbearOverland ..👍🏼😁
Good vid Leigh, beautifully put together Steph.
Thank you Soo much I'm about to do this, your video gives me the confidence now to go ahead 👍💪
No comment on this post. Saw you in Windhoek today. Welcome to Namibia
Top tip. Take your old hub nuts, machine or file the locking ring off and add them to your spares. Never know when you might need them and use them both as nut and lock nut on one wheel.
If you mod the hardline bracket you can undo the clip and slide the line out. You don't need to bend the line. Mine were stainless braided from caliper to chassis. Never had a single problem. I did the same to my Tacoma. Great video.
Being an Aussie you should tie the caliper up with a bit of fencing wire.
Haha I do on the rear but the front has a nice spot to wedge them 😜
Very informative.
Très beau cours de mécanique Monsieur Leigh !
Think I posted a comment when you replaced that bearing that has overheated, the centre spacers are available in slightly different widths, if you don't measure the end float of the hub after bearing replacement then the bearing can be too tight (and get hot) or too loose, you need to select the correct spacer tube to set the end float. . You would be much better to do away with the spacer and single nut system and use the old 2 nut and lock tab system, cheap as chips to do, no silly spacer tube to select and the wheel bearing can be adjusted easily with no extra parts, I've done this on a few TD5's now as it saves having to select spacers. Also, to save grief, the brake caliper bolts are 1/2“ not 13mm, a 1/2" 12 point fits much better and minimises the chance of rounding a caliper bolt, that's a whole heap of pain you want to avoid. Great vid, thank you. 👍
Is the old 2 nut and tab system off the TDi? What is the torque setting on the first nut?
Also- I was under the impression, as you point out, that the bearings are set to "end float" and not to a torque setting
@@MrDvdelftyes, the older 200-300 tdi style, tighten the first nut to 65Nm, then back off and tighten to 10Nm, then tighten outer nut to 65Nm.
@@MrDvdelft They should all be adjusted to end float, the measurement being set by the tube spacers length on Td5 and tdci, different lengths are available from LR, this being the problem, you need a selection of spacers to set the end float, the older tdi twin nut and tab washer is easily adjusted without the need for extra parts.
@andicog is the swap from the TDci & TD5 system to the TDi 200 & 300 system as straight forward as just getting the two lock nuts or do you need the TDi specific tube spacer too?
For the space. Even on a short trip. I'll throw a couple of stands in. Keep on the roof on a box. You'll never know. Love your work dude
You're absolutely right. I've been talking about doing that for years and will be honest I've taken a few risks several times when I haven't been able to find suitable blocks to act as stands.
I've seen some nice foldable stands on the market. Will get a set at the next opportunity for sure.
@@GrizzlyNbearOverland by the way, Love the Rig!
A couple of points to make things easier. You don't need to let the hydraulic jack down once the stand is in place. Also, before removing the rh caliper, turn full loch left so it's easier to access. Ideally before you jack up.
Great advice thank you 😊
Great Job Leigh
And hence you reminded me to get some extra things as I have the same hubnuts etc.
Hey Leigh.... Nice video, as if its a live show out of a Haynes Workshop Manual...
Wit Mossel Pot in Elandsbay are waiting for you... 🤐
Enjoy enjoy....
You know Im so glad you are in a Landy and have been able to get to know Cape Town so well. If you were in a Land Cruiser you would be half way up Africa by now
I’ll definitely be doing that wheel trick on my next disc change 👏👏
It's a good one for sure 😉
Good job well done
When I see you working with the watch on your wrist it reminds me on how I've managed to destroy the appearance of my last watch including piercing the glass dial with welding sparks 😂..
Well done Leigh
Well done 😍
Also look up folding jackstands. They are not something I would use everyday but great for emergencys.
I'm fixing to do a bake job when it warms up and no more chance of snow, the following is what I found regarding slotted rotors;
"Vented rotors generally last longer than solid rotors. They're also less prone to cracking related to heat build up. Minimal brake pad wear: Smooth surfaces minimize brake pad wear. So vented rotors don't wear out brake pads as fast as slotted and drilled rotors""
That source seems to be mixing up vented and grooved/slotted? Vented rotors (internally) are standard production fit in this case , that's not the same as slotted on the friction surface which are complete waste of time for 4x4 and nearly all road use on even high performance cars. Vented vs. Solid is not a choice you can make with a normal brake service, the vehicle manufacturer will have specced vented or solid according to their calculations. There is no reason vented or solid will last different amounts of time with correctly specified braking system and not overloading vehicle etc. Grooved/Slotted will wear pads quicker irrespective if the basic disc is solid or vented.
Front are vented on the Defender rear are solid.
The vented, drilled and slotted discs are what I meant that we were advised against.
Leigh, in other vids you show a dashcam/reverse camera on the dashboard. Can you tell me where I can get one please? Cheers to you both. 🙏👍🏻🦘
www.4x4megaworldonline.com/electrical/dash-cameras/dvr-including-reverse-camera/
Last time i did my 79 series on alloys it was near 180 haha
Absolutely no need for drilled slotted etc. for your type of use and are not as durable, also slotted in particular kill brake pads much quicker .
That's exactly the advice we were given by a very knowledgeable friend 😉
This makes my Mitsubishi Triton's front brakes look SO much easier. Undo the calliper (2x 17mm bolts), smack the rotor with a hammer until it comes off, wire wheel the hub surface, then slap a new rotor back on 🤣
I love videos like this and you explain everything so well.
How long did it take to install the brake discs in total? 👋
Approximately 6 hours... That was my first time so I went nice and slowly to make sure I didn't miss anything.
Leigh, would it not be best to disconnect the callipers and bleed the brakes to swap out the out brake fluid ?
It was my Dads mantra, whenever we worked on the discs or the brakes - mind you I'm in the UK and we have it pretty damp here and that brake fluid loves to absorb moisture 🙂
The brakes were bled not long before that job. Usually if we don't disconnect the brake lines then no air should have got in so no need to bleed.
Good practice to do it often though for sure. Your dad has a good work practice 😊
@@GrizzlyNbearOverland Ahh, didn't realise that they had recently been bleed 🙂
It's good practice to change the brake fluid regularly, yes, but I don't see the point in disconnecting the callipers to do that. That just introduces the chance of getting dirt or air in there.
Personally I open the bleed nipple when pushing the pistons back before fitting new pads, and that gets a bit of old fluid out rather than pushing it back up to the reservoir, but I never open the brake lines unless I have to.
Hi Leigh, hope you are happy with the Job done.
Why is it you don't use penetrating oil?
It's so much easier to undo overtightened bolts and nuts.
Sometimes I do but didn't think of it this time.
@@GrizzlyNbearOverland I have the habit of starting to soak the nuts and bolts of what I know I'll be taking apart at least a day or two ahead. Or from the day, I ordered the parts. I find it a good way to spot some details and anticipate the job that's waiting to be done.
Good onya from Switzerland
If you come in Romania they will put the air gun and you will have the same Nm on every screw like 500 :))
😂😂😂
Are crocs the recommended footwear for this job? 😂
They are safety Crocs 😂😂😂
😂😂😂😂😂😂
Bonjour. Auriez vous les ref de l adaptateur dynamométrique de Leith. Svp.
Merci.
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A+Tshuss🤓👍
Frena el vehículo.
Usa una palanca!!
What is the brand and model of your digital torque gauge? Never used that style (only the normal wrench style), but thinking a digital one would be handy to have for overlanding.
I bought it in Australia at an auto parts store. I think the make is Toolcraft but I'm sure there are lots of models. Most auto parts stores would have something similar maybe...
Leigh, I know you must have been asked loads of time; but what is that digital torque indicator you have and where can you buy them?
Keep the great videos coming; it’s really interesting to have a maintenance one every so often, just to see what’s needed to keep the truck reliable.
That is a common question for sure. I bought it at Supercheap auto in Australia. I think the make is Toolcraft but I'm sure there must be many of the same.
Most auto parts stores should sell them I think.
La pinza se sujeta con una cuerda!!!
Did you change the pads as well as the discs..
Pads had been done recently so we didn't change them.
Au secours plus de traduction française 😂
I have been convinced not to buy Lan Rover! Merci!
Sadly, you got convinced..
Good for Landy, as their owners have nuts and balls ....
@@alwynvanwyk1851 when i was young I did have bulls, a lot! Now that I am retired, I look more for convenience!
Très très déçu pas de sous titrage en français !!! 😤😡😠
God could Land Rover not make this anymore difficult 🇨🇦🏴☠️
Brake discs on back of hub flange used to be universal and is still very common on 4x4's including Toyota Landcruisers etc. !!
Great content as always, have you seen The.Out.Fit's new massive project? Greetings from the other side of the world. ¡¡Pura Vida!!
We hope we can meet again one day :)
Good job well done